The Malay Archipelago

b >> by Alfred Russell Wallace >> The Malay Archipelago

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24

Immediately on our arrival at Muka, I engaged a small boat and
three natives to go in search of my lost men, and sent one of my
own men with them to make sure of their going to the right
island. In ten days they returned, but to my great regret and
disappointment, without the men. The weather had been very bad,
and though they had reached an island within sight of that in
which the men were, they could get no further. They had waited
there six days for better weather, and then, having no more
provisions, and the man I had sent with them being very ill and
not expected to live, they returned. As they now knew the island,
I was determined they should make another trial, and (by a
liberal payment of knives, handkerchiefs, and tobacco, with
plenty of provisions) persuaded them to start back immediately,
and make another attempt. They did not return again till the 29th
of July, having stayed a few days at their own village of Bessir
on the way; but this time they had succeeded and brought with
them my two lost men, in tolerable health, though thin and weak.
They had lived exactly a month on the island had found water, and
had subsisted on the roots and tender flower-stalks of a species
of Bromelia, on shell-fish. and on a few turtles' eggs. Having
swum to the island, they had only a pair of trousers and a shirt
between them, but had made a hut of palm-leaves, and had
altogether got on very well. They saw that I waited for them
three days at the opposite island, but had been afraid to cross,
lest the current should have carried them out to sea, when they
would have been inevitably lost. They had felt sure I would send
for them on the first opportunity, and appeared more grateful
than natives usually are for my having done so; while I felt much
relieved that my voyage, though sufficiently unfortunate, had not
involved loss of life.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

WAIGIOU.

(JULY TO SEPTEMER 1860.)

THE village of Muka, on the south coast of Waigiou, consists of a
number of poor huts, partly in the water and partly on shore, and
scattered irregularly over a space of about half a mile in a
shallow bay. Around it are a few cultivated patches, and a good
deal of second-growth woody vegetation; while behind, at the
distance of about half a mile, rises the virgin forest, through
which are a few paths to some houses and plantations a mile or
two inland. The country round is rather flat, and in places
swampy, and there are one or two small streams which run behind
the village into the sea below it. Finding that no house could be
had suitable to my purpose, and hawing so often experienced the
advantages of living close to or just within the forest, I
obtained the assistance of half-a-dozen men; and having selected
a spot near the path and the stream, and close to a fine fig-
tree, which stood just within the forest, we cleared the ground
and set to building a house. As I did not expect to stay here so
long as I had done at Dorey, I built a long, low, narrow shed,
about seven feet high on one side and four on the other, which
required but little wood, and was put up very rapidly. Our sails,
with a few old attaps from a deserted but in the village, formed
the walls, and a quantity of "cadjans," or palm-leaf mats,
covered in the roof. On the third day my house was finished, and
all my things put in and comfortably arranged to begin work, and
I was quite pleased at having got established so quickly and in
such a nice situation.

It had been so far fine weather, but in the night it rained hard,
and we found our mat roof would not keep out water. It first
began to drop, and then to stream over everything. I had to get
up in the middle of the night to secure my insect-boxes, rice,
and other perishable articles, and to find a dry place to sleep
in, for my bed was soaked. Fresh leaks kept forming as the rain
continued, and w e all passed a very miserable and sleepless
night. In the morning the sun shone brightly, and everything was
put out to dry. We tried to find out why the mats leaked, and
thought we had discovered that they had been laid on upside down.
Having shifted there all, and got everything dry and comfortable
by the evening, we again went to bed, and before midnight were
again awaked by torrent of rain and leaks streaming in upon us as
bad as ever. There was no more sleep for us that night, and the
next day our roof was again taken to pieces, and we came to the
conclusion that the fault was a want of slope enough in the roof
for mats, although it would be sufficient for the usual attap
thatch. I therefore purchased a few new and some old attaps, and
in the parts these would not cover we put the mats double, and
then at last had the satisfaction of finding our roof tolerably
water-tight.

I was now able to begin working at the natural history of the
island. When I first arrived I was surprised at being told that
there were no Paradise Birds at Muka, although there were plenty
at Bessir, a place where the natives caught them and prepared the
skins. I assured the people I had heard the cry of these birds
close to the village, but they world not believe that I could
know their cry. However, the very first time I went into the
forest I not only heard but saw them, and was convinced there
were plenty about; but they were very shy, and it was some time
before we got any. My hunter first shot a female, and I one day
got very close to a fine male. He was, as I expected, the rare
red species, Paradisea rubra, which alone inhabits this island,
and is found nowhere else. He was quite low down, running along a
bough searching for insects, almost like a woodpecker, and the
long black riband-like filaments in his tail hung down in the
most graceful double curve imaginable. I covered him with my gun,
and was going to use the barrel which had a very small charge of
powder and number eight shot, so as not to injure his plumage,
but the gun missed fire, and he was off in an instant among the
thickest jungle. Another day we saw no less than eight fine males
at different times, and fired four times at them; but though
other birds at the same distance almost always dropped, these all
got away, and I began to think we were not to get this
magnificent species. At length the fruit ripened on the fig-tree
close by my house, and many birds came to feed on it; and one
morning, as I was taking my coffee, a male Paradise Bird was seen
to settle on its top. I seized my gun, ran under the tree, and,
gazing up, could see it flying across from branch to branch,
seizing a fruit here and another there, and then, before I could
get a sufficient aim to shoot at such a height (for it was one of
the loftiest trees of the tropics), it was away into the forest.
They now visited the tree every morning; but they stayed so short
a time, their motions were so rapid, and it was so difficult to
see them, owing to the lower trees, which impeded the view, that
it was only after several days' watching, and one or two misses,
that I brought down my bird--a male in the most magnificent
plumage.

This bird differs very much from the two large species which I
had already obtained, and, although it wants the grace imparted
by their long golden trains, is in many respects more remarkable
and more beautiful. The head, back, and shoulders are clothed
with a richer yellow, the deep metallic green colour of the
throat extends further over the head, and the feathers are
elongated on the forehead into two little erectile crests. The
side plumes are shorter, but are of a rich red colour,
terminating in delicate white points, and the middle tail-
feathers are represented by two long rigid glossy ribands, which
are black, thin, and semi-cylindrical, and droop gracefully in a
spiral curve. Several other interesting birds were obtained, and
about half-a-dozen quite new ones; but none of any remarkable
beauty, except the lovely little dove, Ptilonopus pulchellus,
which with several other pigeons I shot on the same fig-tree
close to my house. It is of a beautiful green colour above, with
a forehead of the richest crimson, while beneath it is ashy white
and rich yellow, banded with violet red.

On the evening of our arrival at Muka I observed what appeared
like a display of Aurora Borealis, though I could hardly believe
that this was possible at a point a little south of the equator.
The night was clear and calm, and the northern sky presented a
diffused light, with a constant succession of faint vertical
flashings or flickerings, exactly similar to an ordinary aurora
in England. The next day was fine, but after that the weather was
unprecedentedly bad, considering that it ought to have been the
dry monsoon. For near a month we had wet weather; the sun either
not appearing at all, or only for an hour or two about noon.
Morning and evening, as well as nearly all night, it rained or
drizzled, and boisterous winds, with dark clouds, formed the
daily programme. With the exception that it was never cold, it
was just such weather as a very bad English November or February.

The people of Waigiou are not truly indigenes of the island,
which possesses no "Alfuros," or aboriginal inhabitants. They
appear to be a mixed race, partly from Gilolo, partly from New
Guinea. Malays and Alfuros from the former island have probably
settled here, and many of them have taken Papuan wives from
Salwatty or Dorey, while the influx of people from those places,
and of slaves, has led to the formation of a tribe exhibiting
almost all the transitions from a nearly pure Malayan to an
entirely Papuan type. The language spoken by them is entirely
Papuan, being that which is used on all the coasts of Mysol,
Salwatty, the north-west of New Guinea, and the islands in the
great Geelvink Bay,--a fact which indicates the way in which the
coast settlements have been formed. The fact that so many of the
islands between New Guinea and the Moluccas--such as Waigiou,
Guebe, Poppa, Obi, Batchian, as well as the south and east
peninsulas of Gilolo--possess no aboriginal tribes, but are
inhabited by people who are evidently mongrels and wanderers, is
a remarkable corroborative proof of the distinctness of the
Malayan and Papuan races, and the separation of the geographical
areas they inhabit. If these two great races were direct
modifications, the one of the other, we should expect to find in
the intervening region some homogeneous indigenous race
presenting intermediate characters. For example, between the
whitest inhabitants of Europe and the black Klings of South
India, there are in the intervening districts homogeneous races
which form a gradual transition from one to the other; while in
America, although there is a perfect transition from the Anglo-
Saxon to the negro, and from the Spaniard to the Indian, there is
no homogeneous race forming a natural transition from one to the
other. In the Malay Archipelago we have an excellent example of
two absolutely distinct races, which appear to have approached
each other, and intermingled in an unoccupied territory at a very
recent epoch in the history of man; and I feel satisfied that no
unprejudiced person could study them on the spot without being
convinced that this is the true solution of the problem, rather
than the almost universally accepted view that they are but
modifications of one and the same race.

The people of Muka live in that abject state of poverty that is
almost always found where the sago-tree is abundant. Very few of
them take the trouble to plant any vegetables or fruit, but live
almost entirely on sago and fish, selling a little tripang or
tortoiseshell to buy the scanty clothing they require. Almost all
of them, however, possess one or more Papuan slaves, on whose
labour they live in almost absolute idleness, just going out on
little fishing or trading excursions, as an excitement in their
monotonous existence. They are under the rule of the Sultan of
Tidore, and every year have to pay a small tribute of Paradise
birds, tortoiseshell, or sago. To obtain these, they go in the
fine season on a trading voyage to the mainland of New Guinea,
and getting a few goods on credit from some Ceram or Bugis
trader, make hard bargains with the natives, and gain enough to
pay their tribute, and leave a little profit for themselves.

Such a country is not a very pleasant one to live in, for as
there are no superfluities, there is nothing to sell; and had it
not been for a trader from Ceram who was residing there during my
stay, who had a small vegetable garden, and whose men
occasionally got a few spare fish, I should often have had
nothing to eat. Fowls, fruit, and vegetables are luxuries very
rarely to be purchased at Muka; and even cocoa-nuts, so
indispensable for eastern cookery, are not to be obtained; for
though there are some hundreds of trees in the village, all the
fruit is eaten green, to supply the place of the vegetables the
people are too lazy to cultivate. Without eggs, cocoa-nuts, or
plantains, we had very short commons, and the boisterous weather
being unpropitious for fishing, we had to live on what few
eatable birds we could shoot, with an occasional cuscus, or
eastern opossum, the only quadruped, except pigs, inhabiting the
island.

I had only shot two male Paradiseas on my tree when they ceased
visiting it, either owing to the fruit becoming scarce, or that
they were wise enough to know there was danger. We continued to
hear and see them in the forest, but after a month had not
succeeded in shooting any more; and as my chief object in
visiting Waigiou was to get these birds, I determined to go to
Bessir, where there are a number of Papuans who catch and
preserve them. I hired a small outrigger boat for this journey,
and left one of my men to guard my house and goods. We had to
wait several days for fine weather, and at length started early
one morning, and arrived late at night, after a rough and
disagreeable passage. The village of Bessir was built in the
water at the point of a small island. The chief food of the
people was evidently shell-fish, since great heaps of the shells
had accumulated in the shallow water between the houses and the
land, forming a regular "kitchen-midden "for the exploration of
some future archeologist. We spent the night in the chief's
house, and the next morning went over to the mainland to look out
for a place where I could reside. This part of Waigiou is really
another island to the south of the narrow channel we had passed
through in coming to Muka. It appears to consist almost entirely
of raised coral, whereas the northern island contains hard
crystalline rocks. The shores were a range of low limestone
cliffs, worn out by the water, so that the upper part generally
overhung. At distant intervals were little coves and openings,
where small streams came down from the interior; and in one of
these we landed, pulling our boat up on a patch of white sandy
beach. Immediately above was a large newly-made plantation of
yams and plantains, and a small hot, which the chief said we
might have the use of, if it would do for me. It was quite a
dwarf's house, just eight feet square, raised on posts so that
the floor was four and a half feet above the ground, and the
highest part of the ridge only five feet above the flour. As I am
six feet and an inch in my stockings, I looked at this with some
dismay; but finding that the other houses were much further from
water, were dreadfully dirty, and were crowded with people, I at
once accepted the little one, and determined to make the best of
it. At first I thought of taking out the floor, which would leave
it high enough to walk in and out without stooping; but then
there would not be room enough, so I left it just as it was, had
it thoroughly cleaned out, and brought up my baggage. The upper
story I used for sleeping in, and for a store-room. In the lower
part (which was quite open all round) I fixed up a small table,
arranged my boxes, put up hanging-shelves, laid a mat on the
ground with my wicker-chair upon it, hung up another mat on the
windward side, and then found that, by bending double and
carefully creeping in, I could sit on my chair with my head just
clear of the ceiling. Here I lived pretty comfortably for six
weeks, taking all my meals and doing all my work at my little
table, to and from which I had to creep in a semi-horizontal
position a dozen times a day; and, after a few severe knocks on
the head by suddenly rising from my chair, learnt to accommodate
myself to circumstances. We put up a little sloping cooking-but
outside, and a bench on which my lads could skin their birds. At
night I went up to my little loft, they spread their mats on the,
floor below, and we none of us grumbled at our lodgings.

My first business was to send for the men who were accustomed to
catch the Birds of Paradise. Several came, and I showed them my
hatchets, beads, knives, and handkerchiefs; and explained to
them, as well as I could by signs, the price I would give for
fresh-killed specimens. It is the universal custom to pay for
everything in advance; but only one man ventured on this occasion
to take goods to the value of two birds. The rest were
suspicious, and wanted to see the result of the first bargain
with the strange white man, the only one who had ever come to
their island. After three days, my man brought me the first bird-
-a very fine specimen, and alive, but tied up in a small bag, and
consequently its tail and wing feathers very much crushed and
injured. I tried to explain to him, and to the others that came
with him, that I wanted them as perfect as possible, and that
they should either kill them, or keep them on a perch with a
string to their leg. As they were now apparently satisfied that
all was fair, and that I had no ulterior designs upon them, six
others took away goods; some for one bird, some for more, and one
for as many as six. They said they had to go a long way for them,
and that they would come back as soon as they caught any. At
intervals of a few days or a week, some of them would return,
bringing me one or more birds; but though they did not bring any
more in bags, there was not much improvement in their condition.
As they caught them a long way off in the forest, they would
scarcely ever come with one, but would tie it by the leg to a
stick, and put it in their house till they caught another. The
poor creature would make violent efforts to escape, would get
among the ashes, or hang suspended by the leg till the limb was
swollen and half-putrefied, and sometimes die of starvation and
worry. One had its beautiful head all defiled by pitch from a
dammar torch; another had been so long dead that its stomach was
turning green. Luckily, however, the skin and plumage of these
birds is so firm and strong, that they bear washing and cleaning
better than almost any other sort; and I was generally able to
clean them so well that they did not perceptibly differ from
those I had shot myself.

Some few were brought me the same day they were caught, and I had
an opportunity of examining them in all their beauty and
vivacity. As soon as I found they were generally brought alive, I
set one of my men to make a large bamboo cage with troughs for
food and water, hoping to be able to keep some of them. I got the
natives to bring me branches of a fruit they were very fond of,
and I was pleased to find they ate it greedily, and would also
take any number of live grasshoppers I gave them, stripping off
the legs and wings, and then swallowing them. They drank plenty
of water, and were in constant motion, jumping about the cage
from perch to perch, clinging on the top and sides, and rarely
resting a moment the first day till nightfall. The second day
they were always less active, although they would eat as freely
as before; and on the morning of the third day they were almost
always found dead at the bottom of the cage, without any apparent
cause. Some of them ate boiled rice as well as fruit and insects;
but after trying many in succession, not one out of ten lived
more than three days. The second or third day they would be dull,
and in several cases they were seized with convulsions, and fell
off the perch, dying a few hours afterwards. I tried immature as
well as full-plumaged birds, but with no better success, and at
length gave it up as a hopeless task, and confined my attention
to preserving specimens in as good a condition as possible.

The Red Birds of Paradise are not shot with blunt arrows, as in
the Aru Islands and some parts of New Guinea, but are snared in a
very ingenious manner. A large climbing Arum bears a red
reticulated fruit, of which the birds are very fond. The hunters
fasten this fruit on a stout forked stick, and provide themselves
with a fine but strong cord. They then seep out some tree in the
forest on which these birds are accustomed to perch, and climbing
up it fasten the stick to a branch and arrange the cord in a
noose so ingeniously, that when the bird comes to eat the fruit
its legs are caught, and by pulling the end of the cord, which
hangs down to the ground, it comes free from the branch and
brings down the bird. Sometimes, when food is abundant elsewhere,
the hunter sits from morning till night under his tree with the
cord in his hand, and even for two or three whole days in
succession, without even getting a bite; while, on the other
hand, if very lucky, he may get two or three birds in a day.
There are only eight or ten men at Bessir who practise this art,
which is unknown anywhere else in the island. I determined,
therefore, to stay as long as possible, as my only chance of
getting a good series of specimens; and although I was nearly
starved, everything eatable by civilized man being scarce or
altogether absent, I finally succeeded.

The vegetables and fruit in the plantations around us did not
suffice for the wants of the inhabitants, and were almost always
dug up or gathered before they were ripe. It was very rarely we
could purchase a little fish; fowls there were none; and we were
reduced to live upon tough pigeons and cockatoos, with our rice
and sago, and sometimes we could not get these. Having been
already eight months on this voyage, my stock of all condiments,
spices and butter, was exhausted, and I found it impossible to
eat sufficient of my tasteless and unpalatable food to support
health. I got very thin and weak, and had a curious disease known
(I have since heard) as brow-ague. Directly after breakfast every
morning an intense pain set in on a small spot on the right
temple. It was a severe burning ache, as bad as the worst
toothache, and lasted about two hours, generally going off at
noon. When this finally ceased, I had an attack of fever, which
left me so weak and so unable to eat our regular food, that I
feel sure my life was saved by a couple of tins of soup which I
had long reserved for some such extremity. I used often to go out
searching after vegetables, and found a great treasure in a lot
of tomato plants run wild, and bearing little fruits about the
size of gooseberries. I also boiled up the tops of pumpkin plants
and of ferns, by way of greens, and occasionally got a few green
papaws. The natives, when hard up for food, live upon a fleshy
seaweed, which they boil till it is tender. I tried this also,
but found it too salt and bitter to be endured.

Towards the end of September it became absolutely necessary for
me to return, in order to make our homeward voyage before the end
of the east monsoon. Most of the men who had taken payment from
me had brought the birds they had agreed for. One poor fellow had
been so unfortunate as not to get one, and he very honestly
brought back the axe he had received in advance; another, who had
agreed for six, brought me the fifth two days before I was to
start, and went off immediately to the forest again to get the
other. He did not return, however, and we loaded our boat, and
were just on the point of starting, when he came running down
after us holding up a bird, which he handed to me, saying with
great satisfaction, "Now I owe you nothing." These were
remarkable and quite unexpected instances of honesty among
savages, where it would have been very easy for them to have been
dishonest without fear of detection or punishment.

The country round about Bessir was very hilly and rugged,
bristling with jagged and honey-combed coralline rocks, and with
curious little chasms and ravines. The paths often passed through
these rocky clefts, which in the depths of the forest were gloomy
and dark in the extreme, and often full of fine-leaved herbaceous
plants and curious blue-foliaged Lycopodiaceae. It was in such
places as these that I obtained many of my most beautiful small
butterflies, such as Sospita statira and Taxila pulchra, the
gorgeous blue Amblypodia hercules, and many others. On the skirts
of the plantations I found the handsome blue Deudorix despoena,
and in the shady woods the lovely Lycaena wallacei. Here, too, I
obtained the beautiful Thyca aruna, of the richest orange on the
upper side; while below it is intense crimson and glossy black;
and a superb specimen of a green Ornithoptera, absolutely fresh
and perfect, and which still remains one of the glories of my
cabinet.

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24