Young Americans Abroad
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I never wished to have your company more than when we all ascended the
height of St. Vincent's Rocks. The elevation at which we stood was about
three hundred and fifty feet above the winding river which, it is
thought, by some sudden convulsion of nature, turned from the moors _of_
Somersetshire, its old passage to the sea, and forced an abrupt one
between the rocks and the woods; and the corresponding dip of the
strata, the cavities on one side, and projections on the other, make the
supposition very plausible. A suspension bridge over this awful chasm is
in progress.
The celebrated pulpit orator, Robert Hall, always spoke of the scenery
of this region as having done very much in his early days to form his
notions of the beautiful. In one of his most admirable sermons, preached
at Bristol, when discoursing upon "the new heavens and the new earth,"
he indulged in an astonishing outbreak of eloquence, while he conducted
his audience to the surpassing beauties of their own vicinage,
sin-ruined as it was, and then supposed that this earth might become the
dwelling-place of the redeemed, when, having been purified from all
evil, it should again become "very good." Here, on these scenes of
unrivalled beauty, Southey, and Lovell, and Coleridge, and Cottle have
loved to meditate; and the wondrous boy Chatterton fed his muse amid
these rare exhibitions of the power and wisdom of the Godhead. A Roman
encampment is still visible on the summit of the rocks. We were all
sorry, to see such havoc going on among the quarries, where, to use
Southey's language on this subject, they are "selling off the sublime
and beautiful by the boat load."
[Illustration: Samuel Taylor Coleridge.]
Our favorite walk is on the downs. George seems really penetrated with
the uncommon beauty of the region, and wants to stop as long as
possible, and does not believe any thing can be more beautiful. We look
over the awful cliffs--gaze on the thread of water winding its devious
course at an immense distance below--watch the steamers from Wales and
Ireland shoot up to the city, and the noble West Indiamen, as they are
towed along. The woods opposite are charming, and contain nearly every
forest-tree belonging to the country. Dr. Holland, in his travels
through Greece, refers to this very spot in the following language: "The
features of nature are often best described by comparison; and to those
who have visited Vincent's Rocks, below Bristol, I cannot convey a more
sufficient idea of the far-famed Vale of Tempe than by saying that its
scenery resembles, though on a much larger scale, that of the former
place. The Peneus, indeed, as it flows through the valley, is not
greatly wider than the Avon, and the channel between the cliffs
irregularly contracted in its dimensions; but these cliffs themselves
are much loftier and more precipitous, and project their vast masses of
rock with still more extraordinary abruptness over the hollow beneath."
We devoted a morning to visit Leigh Court, the residence of Mr. Miles, a
wealthy merchant and member in Parliament for Bristol. This is regarded
as one of the finest residences in the west of England. The mansion has
an Ionic portico, supported by massive columns. The great hall is very
extensive. A double flight of steps leads you to a peristyle of the
Ionic order, around which are twenty marble columns, supporting a lofty
dome, lighted by painted glass. The floor is of colored marble. This
residence has been enriched with the choicest treasures from Wanstead
House, and Fonthill Abbey. To us the grand attraction was the Picture
Gallery, which has few superiors in the kingdom. A catalogue, with
etchings, was published a few years ago. You may judge of the merits of
the collection, and the nature of our gratification, when I tell you
that here are the Conversion of Paul, by Rubens; the Graces, by Titian;
William Tell, by Holbein; Pope Julius II., by Raphael; Ecce Homo, by
Carl Dolci; Head of the Virgin, by Correggio; St. Peter, by Guido; St.
John, by Domenichino; Creator Mundi, by Leonardo da Vinci; Crucifixion,
by Michael Angelo; Plague of Athens, by N. Poussin; three Seaports, by
Claude; and a large number by Rembrandt, Salvator Rosa, Paul Potter,
Parmegiano, Velasques, Gerard Dow, &c. This has been a most gratifying
excursion, and our visit here will be a matter of pleasant recollection.
I forgot to say that at Clifton, and at various places near the rocks,
we were beset by men, women, and children, having very beautiful
polished specimens of the various stones found in the quarries, together
with minerals and petrifactions. Of these we all obtained an assortment.
Yours affectionately,
J.O.C.
Letter 10.
DEAR CHARLEY:--
We have while at Bristol made two journeys to Bath, and I am sure we are
all of opinion that it is the most elegant city we ever saw. A great
deal of its beauty is owing to the fine freestone of which it is chiefly
built.
We were much pleased with the Royal Crescent, which consists of a large
number of elegant mansions, all built in the same style. Ionic columns
rise from a rustic basement, and support the superior cornice. These
houses are most elegantly finished. All the city is seen from the
crescent, and no other spot affords so grand a prospect. Camden Place is
an elliptical range of edifices, commanding an extensive view of the
valley, with the winding stream of the Avon, and the villages upon its
banks. One of the principal features of Bath is its hills and downs,
which shelter it on every side. The sides on these downs are very fine,
extending for miles, and you see thousands of sheep enjoying the finest
possible pasturage. Talking of sheep, I am reminded how very fine the
sheep are here; it seems to me they are almost as big again as our
mutton-makers.
Queen Square, in Bath, pleases us all, as we are told it does every one.
It stands up high, and is seen from most parts of the city. From north
to south, between the buildings, if is three hundred and sixteen feet,
and from east to west three hundred and six feet. In the centre is an
enclosure, and in that is a fine obelisk. The north side of the square
is composed of stately dwellings, and they have all the appearance of a
palace. The square is built of freestone, and is beautifully tinted by
age. The first thing almost we want to see in these fine towns is the
cathedral, if there be one. I never thought that I should be so pleased
with old buildings as I find I am. Old houses, castles, and churches
have somehow strangely taken my fancy. The Cathedral, or, as they here
call it, the Abbey Church, is a noble one. It was begun in 1495, and
only finished in 1606, and stands on the foundation of an old convent,
erected by Osric in 676. It is famous for its clustered columns, and
wide, elegantly arched windows. The roof is remarkable for having
fifty-two windows, and I believe has been called the Lantern of England.
You know that the city takes its name from its baths. The great resort
of fashion is at the Pump-room and the Colonnade. This building is
eighty-five feet in length, forty-six wide, and thirty-four high. This
elegant room is open to the sick of every part of the world. An
excellent band plays every day from one till half past three.
The King's Bath is a basin sixty-six feet by forty-one, and will contain
three hundred and forty-six tuns. I have been much pleased with Dr.
Granville's works on the Spas of England, and there you will find much
interesting matter respecting Bath.
We made some pleasant excursions in the vicinity of this beautiful city.
We have visited Bradford, Trowbridge, and Devizes. Trowbridge is a fine
old town, and we looked with interest at the church where the poet
Crabbe so long officiated. His reputation here stands high as a good man
and kind neighbor, but he was called a poor preacher. Here, and in all
the neighboring places, the manufacture of broadcloths and cassimeres is
carried on extensively. Devizes is a charming old town. We were greatly
interested with its market-place, and a fine cross, erected to hand down
the history of a sad event. A woman who had appealed to God in support
of a lie was here struck dead upon the spot, and the money which she
said she had paid for some wheat was found clinched in her hand. This
monument was built by Lord Sidmouth, and is a fine freestone edifice,
with a suitable inscription.
Roundaway Down, which hangs over this ancient town, was famous in the
civil wars of Charles I. Here, too, are the relics of an old castle.
Devizes has two great cattle fairs, in spring and autumn; and the market
day, on Thursday, gave us a good idea of the rural population. We have
rarely seen finer looking men than were here to be seen around their
wheat, barley, and oats. We have been pleased to see the great English
game of cricket, which is so universally played by all young men in this
country. It seems to us that the boys here have more athletic games than
with us. Prisoners' bass seems a favorite boys' amusement, and ninepins,
or, as we call it, bowls, are played by all classes freely, and it is
not regarded as at all unministerial. We are going to London this week,
and shall commence sight-seeing in earnest. Above all, we are to be at
the exhibition. When I have seen the lions, I will write you again.
Yours affectionately,
JAMES.
Letter 11.
LONDON.
DEAR CHARLEY:--
The story goes that Mr. Webster, when he first arrived in London,
ordered the man to drive to the Tower. Certainly we boys all wanted to
go there as soon as possible. I do not think that I ever felt quite so
touch excitement as I did when we were riding to the Tower, I had so
many things crowding into my mind; and all the history of England with
which I have been so pleased came at once freshly into my memory. I
wanted to be alone, and have all day to wander up and down the old
prison and palace and museum, for it has been all these things by turns.
Well, we rode over Tower Hill, and got directly in front of the old
fortress, and had a complete view of it.
In the centre stands a lofty square building, with four white towers,
having vanes upon them. This is said to be the work of William the
Conqueror, but has had many alterations under William Rufus, Henry I.,
and Henry II. In 1315, the Tower was besieged by the barons who made war
on John. Henry III. made his residence in this place, and did much to
strengthen and adorn it. About this time the Tower began to be used as a
state prison. Edward I. enlarged the ditch or moat which surrounded the
Tower. In the days of Richard II., when the king had his troubles with
Wat Tyler, the Archbishop of Canterbury was beheaded on Tower Hill, or,
rather, massacred, for it said that he was mangled by eight strokes of
the axe. When Henry V. gained his great victory at Agincourt, he placed
his French prisoners here. Henry VIII. was here for some time after he
came to the throne, and he made his yeomen the wardens of the Tower,
and they still wear the same dress as at that day. The dress is very
rich,--scarlet and gold,--and made very large; the coat short, and
sleeves full. The head-dress is a cap.
We went in at what is called the Lion's Gate, because some time back the
menagerie was kept in apartments close by. The kings of other days used
to have fights between the beasts, and James I. was very fond of combats
between lions and dogs in presence of his court. All these animals were
moved several years ago to the Zooelogical Gardens. We passed through
strong gates, defended by a portcullis, and on our left we saw what the
warden called the Bell Tower, and which was the prison of Bishop Fisher,
who was beheaded for not acknowledging Henry VIII. to be the head of the
church. I wanted to see the Traitor's Gate, and found it was on the
right hand, having a communication with the Thames under a bridge on the
wharf. Through this passage it was formerly the custom to convey the
state prisoners, and many a man in passing this gate bade farewell to
hope.
There is, just opposite to this gate, the bloody tower where Edward V.
and his brother were put to death by the monster Richard, who usurped
the throne. I would have given a great deal to have explored the Tower,
but the things and places I wanted to look into were just what you are
not let see. The old Tower of English history you look at, but must not
go through. Still I have been delighted, but not satisfied. We found the
spot where the grand storehouse and armory were burnt in 1841, and, if I
recollect rightly, the warden said it was three hundred and fifty feet
long, and sixty wide. Here, I suppose, was the finest collection of
cannon and small fire-arms in the world. We saw some few fine specimens
that were saved. Of course, we were curious to see the Horse Armory.
This is a room one hundred and fifty feet in length, and about
thirty-five wide. Some one has said that here is "the History of
England, done in iron." All down the middle of the room is a line of
equestrian figures, and over each character is his banner. All the sides
of the apartment are decorated with trophies and figures in armor. I was
much gratified with the beautiful taste displayed in the arrangement of
the arms upon the walls and ceiling. Some of the suits of armor were
very rich, and answered exactly to my notions of such matters. Here I
saw, for the first time, the coat of mail; and I think the men of that
day must have been stronger than those of our time, or they never could
have endured such trappings. I was much pleased with the real armor of
Henry VIII. This suit was very rich, and damasked. And here, too, was
the very armor of Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who figured at the court
of Elizabeth. It weighs eighty-seven pounds; and close by it is the
martial suit of the unfortunate Essex. He was executed, you know, at
this place, 1601. Among the most beautiful armors we saw were the suits
of Charles I. and a small one which belonged to his younger brother when
a lad. I think one suit made for Charles when a boy of twelve would have
fitted me exactly; and wouldn't I have liked to become its owner! King
Charles's armor was a present from the city of London, and was one of
the latest manufactured in England.
I do not think I ever was in a place that so delighted me. I cannot tell
you a hundredth part of the curiosities that are to be seen s all sorts
of rude ancient weapons; several instruments of torture prepared by the
Roman Catholics, at the time of the Spanish Armada, for the conversion
of the English heretics. One of these was the Iron Collar, which weighs
about fifteen pounds, and has a rim of inward spikes; and besides, we
saw a barbarous instrument, called the Scavenger's Daughter, which
packed up the body and limbs into an inconceivably small space. We
looked with deep interest, you may imagine, Charley, on the block on
which the Scotch lords, Balmerino, Kilmarnook, and Lovat, were beheaded
in 1746. The fatal marks upon the wood are deeply cut; and we had in our
hands the axe which was used at the execution of the Earl of Essex. I
shall read the history of this country, I am sure, with more pleasure
than ever, after walking over the yard and Tower Hill, where so many
great and good, as well as so many infamous, persons have suffered
death. Only think what a list of names to be connected with the
block--Fisher, More, Queen Anne Boleyn, Queen Catherine Howard,
Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, Cromwell and Devereux, both Earls of
Essex, the Duke of Somerset, Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Duke of
Northumberland, Sir Walter Raleigh, Strafford, Laud,--all perished on
the Tower Green or on the Tower Hill. The spot is easily recognized
where the scaffold was erected.
The regalia, or crown jewels, are kept in an apartment built on purpose
to contain these precious treasures. Here are the crowns that once
belonged to different sovereigns and heirs of the throne. At the death
of Charles I., the crown in use, and said to be as old as the times of
Edward the Confessor, was broken up, and a new one made at the
restoration of Charles II. The arches of this crown are covered with
large stones of different colors, and the cap of the crown is of purple
velvet. The old crown for the queen is of gold, set with diamonds of
great cost, and has some large pearls. There is a crown called "the
Diadem," which was made for James II.'s queen, adorned with diamonds,
and which cost just about half a million of dollars. The crown of the
Prince of Wales is plain gold.
As for orbs, staffs, and sceptres, I can't tell you half the number. One
I noticed called "St. Edward's Staff," of gold, four feet seven inches
long. At the top is an orb and cross, and a fragment of the Savior's
cross is _said_ to be in the orb. Here, too, are all kinds of
swords--called swords of justice and mercy--and vessels to hold the oil
for anointing the monarch at coronation, and a saltcellar of gold which
is used at the same time, and is a model of the Tower. I thought all
this very fine; but I was most pleased with seeing such splendid
specimens of precious stones. Such diamonds, pearls, amethysts,
emeralds, &c., &c., we Yankee boys had never seen, and probably may
never see again. I was very much delighted with a large silver wine
fountain, presented by Plymouth to Charles II., and which is used at
coronation banquets; and also with the font, of silver gilt; used at the
baptism of the Queen. It stands about four feet high. Over all this show
that I have told you of is the state crown made for Victoria. This is
very brilliant, and in the centre of the diamond cross is a sparkling
sapphire, while in front of the crown is a large ruby which was worn by
the Black Prince. Well, Charley, my boy, I would rather go to
Washington and look at our old copy of the Declaration of Independence
than gaze for a whole day at this vast collection of treasure. There is
more to be proud of in that old camp equipage of Washington's up in the
patent office than in all the crown jewels of England--at least, so I
think, and so do you.
Yours affectionately,
GEORGE.
Letter 12.
LONDON.
DEAR CHARLEY:--
George has said his say about the Tower, he tells me; and I assure you
it was a time that we shall often think of when we get back. On our
return, the doctor proposed that we should visit the Thames Tunnel,
which was not far off; and so we went through a number of poor streets,
reminding us of the oldest parts of Boston round Faneuil Hall. The
tunnel connects Rotherhithe and Wapping. This last place, you know, we
have read about enough in Dibdin's Sea Songs, our old favorite.
Several notions about this great idea have been entertained in past
years; but in 1814, Brunei, the great engineer, noticed the work of a
worm on a vessel's keel, where it had sawn its way longitudinally, and
he caught an idea. In 1833, he formed a "Thames Tunnel Company," and in
1825 he commenced operations, but it was not opened till 1843 for
passengers. There are no carriage approaches to it, and it is only
available to foot travellers. The ascent and descent is by shafts of,
perhaps, one hundred steps. I think I heard that the great work cost the
company, and government, who helped them, about half a million sterling.
The passages are all lighted up with gas, and in the way you find raree
shows of a dioramic character, and plenty of music, and not a few
venders of views and models of the tunnel. After leaving this river
curiosity, we went to see the new Houses of Parliament, which run along
the banks of the river, in close neighborhood to Westminster Abbey. I
felt disappointed at the first view, it is altogether so much like a
very large pasteboard model--such a thing as you often see in ladies'
fairs for charity. To my notion, the affair wants character; it is all
beautiful detail. The length is about oho thousand feet. The clock tower
is to be three hundred and twenty feet high. It is vain to describe the
building, which is far too immense and complicated for my pea. I never
was so bewildered in a place before. As I think you would like to have a
correct idea of the House of Lords, I will quote from the description
which was handed us on entering, but even then you will fail to
understand its gorgeous character.
"Its length is ninety feet; height, forty-five feet, and width the
same; so that it is a double cube. It is lighted by twelve windows, six
on each side, each of which is divided by mullions into four, these
being intersected by a transom, making eight lights in each window,
which are made of stained glass, representing the kings and queens,
consort and regnant, since the Conquest. The ceiling is flat, and
divided into eighteen large compartments, which are subdivided by
smaller ribs into four, having at the intersection lozenge-shaped
compartments. The centre of the south end is occupied by the throne,
each side of which are doors opening into the Victoria Lobby. The throne
is elevated on steps. The canopy is divided into three compartments, the
centre one rising higher than the others, and having under it the royal
chair, which is a brilliant piece of workmanship; studded round the back
with crystals. The shape of the chair is similar in outline to that in
which the monarchs have been crowned, and which is in Westminster Abbey,
but, of course, widely different in detail and decoration. On each side
of this chair are others for Prince Albert and the Prince of Wales. At
the north end is the bar of the house, where appeals are heard, and the
Commons assemble when summoned on the occasion of the opening of
Parliament. Above the bar is the reporters' gallery, behind which is the
strangers', and round the sides of the House is another gallery,
intended for the use of peeresses, &c., on state occasions.
"At the north and south ends of the house, above the gallery, are three
compartments, corresponding in size and shape to the windows, and
containing fresco paintings. Those at the north end are 'the Spirit of
Religion,' by J.C. Horsley; 'the Spirit of Chivalry' and 'the Spirit of
Justice,' by D. Maclise, R.A. Those at the south end, over the throne,
are 'the Baptism of Ethelbert,' by Dyce; 'Edward III. conferring the
Order of the Garter on the Black Prince,' and 'the Committal of Prince
Henry by Judge Gascoigne,' by C.W. Cope, R.A. Between the windows are
richly-decorated niches and canopies, which are to have bronze statues
in them. In casting the eye round the whole room, it is almost
impossible to detect scarcely a square inch which is not either carved
or gilded. The ceiling, with its massive gilded and decorated panels,
presents a most imposing and gorgeous effect, and one of truly royal
splendor. The St. Stephen's Hall is ninety-five feet long, thirty feet
wide, and sixty feet high; the roof is stone-groined, springing from
clustered columns running up the side of the hall. The bosses, at the
intersections of the main ribs, are carved in high relief, with
incidents descriptive of the life of Stephen.
"This hall leads through a lofty archway into the central hall, which
is octagon in plan, having columns at the angles, from which spring ribs
forming a grand stone groin finishing in the centre, with an octagon
lantern, the bosses at the intersections of all the ribs elaborately
carved. The size of this hall is sixty-eight feet in diameter, and it is
sixty feet to the crown of the groin."
The House of Commons, which is now in the course of completion, is quite
a contrast to the splendor of the House of Lords. Its length is
eighty-four feet; width, forty-five feet; and height, forty-three feet.
An oak gallery runs all round the house, supported by posts at
intervals, having carved heads, and spandrills supporting the main ribs.
The strangers' gallery is at the south end, in front of which is the
speaker's order gallery. At the north end is the reporters' gallery,
over which is the ladies' gallery--being behind a stone screen. The
libraries are fine rooms, looking out on the river. I have no time to
tell you of the beautiful refreshment rooms, excepting to say that the
one for the peers is one hundred feet long. I must not forget to say
that in the tower is to be a wondrous clock, the dial of which is to be
thirty feet in diameter! We went to see these buildings by an order from
the lord chamberlain. The total cost is estimated at between eight and
ten millions of dollars. It certainly is very rich, and looks finely
from the river; but it is unfortunately too near to the abbey, and wants
force. After leaving the Houses of Parliament, we went to Westminster
Hall, which has some of the finest historical recollections connected
with any public building in England. Really, I felt more awe in entering
this hall than I ever remember to have experienced. I cannot tell you
the size of it, but it is the largest room in Europe without a support,
and the span of the roof is the widest known. The roof, of chestnut, is
exceedingly fine. Only think, my dear fellow, what events have
transpired on this spot. The following trials took place here: Stafford,
Duke of Buckingham, for high treason, 1521; Sir Thomas More, 1535; Duke
of Somerset, for treason, 1552; Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, for his
attachment to Mary, Queen of Scots; Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex,
1601, and Earl of Southampton; Guy Fawkes and the Gun-powder Plot
conspirators; Robert Carr, Earl of Southampton, and his countess, for
murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, 1616; Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, 1641;
Archbishop Laud; Charles I., for his attacks upon the liberties of his
country, 1649; the seven bishops, in the reign of James II.; Dr.
Sacheverel, 1710; in 1716, the Earls Derwentwater, Nithisdale, and
Carnwath, and the Lords Widdington, Kenmure, and Nairn, for the
rebellion of 1715; Harley, Earl of Oxford, 1717; the Earls Cromartie
and Kilmarnock, and Lord Balmerino, 1746, for the rebellion of 1745;
Lord Lovat, 1747; William Lord Byron, for the death of William Chaworth
in a bloody duel, 1765; Lord Ferrers, for the murder of his steward; the
infamous Duchess of Kingston, for bigamy, 1776; and Warren Hastings, for
cruelty in his office as Governor of India, 1788.
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