Walnut Growing in Oregon
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Various >> Walnut Growing in Oregon
BEST STOCK ON WHICH TO GRAFT
Mr. Burbank, Judge Leib, and George C. Payne, all of California, think
the California black or some of its hybrids make the best stock in
California. Mr. Groner prefers the hybrid for Oregon.
Mr. A. McGill, of Oregon, thinks that neither the California black nor
its hybrid are suited to this climate. Few have had more experience,
costly experience at that, than Mr. McGill. He thinks the American black
better for Oregon.
It is sometimes asked, why not plant seedling walnuts and top work those
that are not good bearers? Because the grafts will not do so well on the
English stock as on the black; and it is also found that the English
stock does not make as good a foundation as the black.
Therefore, the best growers in Oregon conclude that the seed from a
thrifty American Black, or close hybrid, is best for this state. In
three or four years after planting cut off the trunk about as high as a
man's waist or shoulder and put in the graft from the best variety
available. The third year from setting of the graft you will have a crop
of nuts.
Mr. Payne can set 250 to 300 grafts in a day. His wages are $8 a day,
and he furnishes the wood. So you see that your trees would cost very
little. Good black walnut seed can be had very cheap, probably at a cost
of 50 cents to $1 per bushel, the Oregon product preferred.
Some of the California hybrids make rapid growth, but too rapid growth
of wood may not be desirable. It may mean early maturity and early
decay, and too few walnut bearing boughs.
GOOD PLAN FOR WALNUT ORCHARD
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(3)---------<1>---------(3)--30 _ft_--<1>--30 _ft_--(3)
Mr. Prince, of Yamhill county, has modified his views somewhat in regard
to the grafted and seedling trees. He thinks that possibly the permanent
orchard should be of the grafted variety, possibly on the Royal or
California hybrid of rapid growth. He proposes the above form of an
orchard. The principal grafted trees should be placed in square form 60
feet apart, represented by figures 3. In the center of these squares at
figures 2 he would either plant the same trees or some other seedling
variety which will bring the trees about 42 feet apart. Midway between
the main grafted trees he would plant other trees, or apple trees,
represented by figures 1 in the little squares. This would make trees
30 feet apart. At the end of 15 or 20 years, when the trees possibly
become crowded, he would remove the No. 1 trees. If this were an apple
tree, it would already have served its best days and no great loss would
be had by its removal. At the end of 25 or 30 years we would remove No.
2, if the trees became crowded, leaving a permanent orchard of trees 60
feet apart, 12 trees to the acre. This is an excellent arrangement, and
no doubt about the best that has yet been proposed for walnut culture in
Oregon.
It is best to plant in square form, a tree to the center of each square,
forty to sixty feet apart is the rule. Berries, small fruit, potatoes,
vetch, peas, beans, etc., can be grown between the trees while they are
young, leaving six or eight feet free to be cultivated each side of the
trees.
Many plant apples, peaches, prunes or cherries between walnut trees,
planning to cut them out when the latter are of such size as to need all
the space.
These crops between the rows produce an income during the eight years'
waiting for the walnuts to come into bearing. Each grower must decide
this point according to his situation, always avoiding grains and
grasses.
THE TAP ROOT
Some experimenting has been done and much speculation has been indulged
regarding the tap root. One writer disposes of the whole subject in this
manner:
"The cutting of the tap root in planting seedlings has been a question
for much discussion, many growers formerly holding that to cut it meant
to kill the tree. This has proved a mistake. It has been practically
demonstrated that the tree thrives better with the tap root cut if
properly done with a sharp instrument, making a clean cut. New growth is
thereby induced, the abundance of lateral roots feed the tree more
satisfactorily and the trees come into bearing from two to three years
earlier than would otherwise be the case."
[Illustration: A Well Planted Tree]
Before accepting this as final it would be well to make further inquiry.
The summers of western Oregon are practically rainless and when the
kernel in the formed shell is maturing unless there is irrigation a
distress call is sent down to the roots for moisture, if the weather is
very dry. The lateral roots cannot supply this dire need and if the main
pump is not working away down deep in the moist earth the kernel will
not fill well and may perish entirely. For this reason no fibre of the
tap root should be disturbed, but rather encouraged by a well auger
hole, bored before the tree is planted, down to the reservoir of
moisture that will not fail in the dryest season.
The moisture in a dry season as a rule is nearer the surface in the
valley than in the hills and gives a better filled nut. In a wet season,
when the ground everywhere is full of moisture, the hills may produce a
more abundant crop than the valley, but in the run of years it will
require more time to prove which is most valuable for walnut culture.
Trees grow in either place, but he who cuts the tap root in any soil
does so at the peril of his crop in dry seasons.
Of the taproot, Wm. M. Reece, of the firm of Epps, Reece & Tillmont,
Eugene, Oregon, writes:
"The peculiar climatic conditions of the Willamette Valley, which
at a certain season of the year becomes semi-arid, fully justifies
the statement that trees not having a tap root are annually checked
in their growth when irrigation is not used; while those that do
have a tap root, as do walnuts, continue to grow and thrive even in
the driest weather. The walnut should be planted, however, in soil
having a subsoil free from any hard substance that will permit the
tap root to grow downward into the strata of perpetual moisture.
"This has been most thoroughly demonstrated in our walnut orchard
this, the driest year in the memory of old settlers in the Valley.
"When the growth of our apple, cherry and peach trees ceased
because of the dry weather, our walnuts kept on growing as if
supplied by continuous rains. It is true that liberal cultivation
through the dry season will materially aid the growth of all kinds
of trees not having a tap root and is indispensable to the growth
of young walnut trees, trees that have not extended their tap root
down to perpetual moisture.
"Walnut trees, in the opinion of the writer, cease growing upward
when they cease growing downward; that is to say, when rock, shale
or impenetrable hardpan stops the growth of the tap root, the tree
has practically reached its height.
"Therefore, in planting a walnut grove, borings should be made to
test the depth of the soil and character of the subsoil.
"Unquestionably the best variety for this climate is the Franquette
and next the Mayette.
"Grafted trees are to be preferred to seedlings. Grafted trees bear
much sooner and the fruit is more uniform in size, though a
seedling that has attained the bearing age will produce as much
fruit as a grafted tree of the same age; this we have occasion to
observe from comparisons in our own orchard.
"We have trees 14 years old that bore 100 pounds at the age of 12
years and the product sold for 25c a pound for planting purposes.
"Those who had the misfortune to have the tender shoots of their
walnut trees killed by the unusual frost early last May, should not
be discouraged. Just examine the limbs now and you will find that
three or four more shoots grew out where the one was killed. This
makes more fruit buds for next year and the shortage of crop this
year will be more than made up next.
"The writer believes that walnut growing will prove to be the most
profitable industry in the Willamette Valley.
"WM. M. REECE."
It seems to be a characteristic of the walnut and hickory, and possibly
other nut trees, to send down a tap root deep into the earth to draw up
the distilled and purified moisture that has been refined and sweetened
in the lower depths. The older boys of the Middle Western states can
recall the time when they wandered through the woods in late winter
time, with a long pole or rail on their shoulders with which they
"pulled hickory root." The young sprout was "withed" around near one end
of the pole, then all hands put their shoulders under the long end and
with an "altogether, heave, oh," draw up a tap root 4, 6 and 8 feet
long. The lowest end was the choicest and sweetest. It was delicious and
in the division of a day's hunt some of these found their way to "his
best girl" at school.
Whether the water down in these lower depths possesses these qualities,
and that they are necessary to give the Oregon walnut its superiority is
yet a matter of speculation, but that these conditions exist is well
known and should have fullest consideration by the intelligent walnut
culturist.
[Illustration: _Tap Root of a Two-year-old Black Walnut showing how the
root grows down to permanent water level, thus insuring full crops
regardless of weather conditions_]
Cut of tap root of a 2-year-old American Black which grew in the lower
red hill land of Yamhill County. There is but one lateral root near the
surface and this was probably caused by the tap root striking harder
soil on its way down to permanent moisture level.
This tap root is 3 feet long and nearly 6 inches in circumference. It is
one of the best object lessons to be had in walnut culture in Oregon.
Though the Willamette Valley has practically four rainless months of
sunshine, irrigation is unnecessary. There is no other country
comparable to it. Its cool and dewy summer nights, together with its
great subterranean reservoir supplied by the winter rains, are the
reasons why its crops never fail and why its fruits fill "red, round and
luscious," and why the walnut has so persistently shown its preference
for this favored region.
WALNUT CULTIVATION
While the walnut is the hardiest of trees and in many cases has borne
heavily in Oregon without cultivation, experience has proved that, like
fruit trees, cultivation up to the tenth or twelfth years increases the
growth, the yield and the quality of the product. After full maturity no
further cultivation is necessary, the tree taking care of itself with
the independence of any forest tree.
With a young grove it is best to plow between the rows after the rains
cease in the spring, and then stir the ground occasionally all through
the summer with the harrow or disk; this holds the moisture. When some
trees seem backward a trench should be dug some two feet or so away, and
a couple of feet deep, filled with fertilizer and closed over. This will
encourage hardier and more rapid growth. Lime can also be used with good
effect, it being customary in England to haul wagon loads to the walnut
lands. Continually hoeing and digging constitute the best treatment, as
one tree on the Prince place, a Mayette, has proved. It was given daily
cultivation, by way of experiment, and more than doubled the size and
yield of other trees of the same age not so treated.
PRUNING WALNUTS
Walnuts require very little pruning. However, to do well they must have
plenty of light and air, and there must be room under the trees to
cultivate. To this end, keep all lateral growths removed the first two
years, pushing the strong terminal growth. Young trees so treated often
make five or six feet in that time. They must be staked and tied with a
broad strip of cloth. Cross the cloth between the stake and the twig so
as not to bruise the tender wood. As the limbs begin to grow take out an
occasional one to prevent the tree becoming too thick. When large limbs
are removed, cut on the slant, carefully waxing to prevent decay.
Heading-in is often beneficial when the tree does not seem to be
fruitful. Train the trees upward as much as possible.
In Roumania and some of the eastern countries of Europe, some of the
walnut trees have such an enormous spread that a flock of five hundred
sheep can lie in comfort beneath the shade of one tree and have ample
room. If this vine-like tendency to spread can be obviated by
intelligently training the trees upward, and its productiveness
maintained or increased, the walnut grower of Oregon will have
accomplished much in the conservation of our resources.
At present we can make a tree that will produce 500 pounds of walnuts in
25 to 30 years. With 12 trees to the acre, will give 6000 pounds of
nuts; two and one-half times that of wheat at 40 bushels per acre, and
they will not require the expensive refrigerator cars and rapid transit
of perishable fruits.
TRAINING THE TREES
It will only be necessary to train the limbs in seven or eight feet all
round to be able to double the number of trees to the acre. Then train
the trees skyward and increase the number of nut-bearing boughs, and the
yield will be increased accordingly. If the nuts on the higher branches
fill as well as on the lower, the tree can not be made to grow too high,
because we have no violent storms to throw down the trees, and the nuts
are self-gathering. These and many other valuable and interesting
problems in the industry are to be worked out.
According to Prof. Lewis, who is good authority, a later and better
method is to cut the young tree back to 4 feet and make it throw out
three or four laterals. When these laterals are fully grown, bind them
up in a bundle one or two feet diameter with soft strands of rope. In
the dormant season cut these laterals back to about two feet. This will
multiply the branches. Cut back the new growths again the next year, and
so on; this will greatly increase the nut-bearing boughs and will train
the tree upward. This seems to be the most sensible method of pruning
yet proposed.
NO DISEASES INJURE OREGON WALNUTS
The soft, moist atmosphere of western Oregon, so favorable to the
English walnut, seems wholly unfavorable to pests that destroy the crop
in other climates. A crop has never been lost or materially injured in
Oregon through these sources; in fact, so free are the Oregon trees of
such enemies that little thought or attention has been given to this
phase of the subject. In a few localities where caterpillars have
attacked the foliage they have been quickly eradicated by an arsenic
spray. Fumigating will kill insect life. A bacterial disease that has
made its appearance in California has not been seen in this state.
Winter spray of lime and sulphur will kill moss and lichens, which are
about the only parasites that attempt to fasten on Oregon walnut trees.
[Illustration: _Old Walnut Trees Planted About 1850 Near McMinnville, on
the Yamhill River_]
[Illustration: POLLINATION
The Walnut]
POLLINATION
Every fruit and nut grower should know the simple theory of pollination.
When a tree appears thrifty but fails to produce, nine times in ten the
trouble is with the pollination. The walnut is bi-sexual and
self-fertile; the staminate catkins appear first, at the end of the
year's growth (see Fig. 1), and the female blossoms, or pistillates,
from one to three weeks later at the end of the new growth (see Fig. 2).
Thus the staminate catkins sometimes fall before the pistillates form,
and naturally there is no pollination and no crop. This should not
discourage the grower or cause him to uproot his trees. Often by waiting
a few seasons--if the tree is of the correct variety--the trouble may
right itself. Many growers have gotten a crop from single trees where
there was trouble with the pollination by artificially fertilizing, that
is, shaking the pollen from fertile trees, even black walnut, over the
barren pistillates. Birds, insects, and the breezes carry pollen from
one tree to another. Therefore, if nuts for seed are desired, keep each
grove of pure strain separate that there may be no deterioration owing
to cross-fertilization. But the mixed orchard may bear best. Some
varieties of walnut trees--notably the Los Angeles--are suitable only
for shade in Oregon and should not be planted with any other thought in
mind. The staminate blossoms of this variety appear six weeks ahead of
the pistillates and, there being no pollination, naturally there are no
nuts.
[Illustration: _Best in the World, Oregon Walnuts_]
[Illustration: _Drying the Nuts_]
THE HARVEST
The harvest comes in October, a convenient season where there are fruit
crops to be taken care of. The process is extremely simple, being little
more than an old-fashioned "nut gathering." When ripe, the nuts fall to
the ground, shedding their hulls on the way. They are picked up by boys,
girls, men and women.
During the harvest three or four rounds must be made through the grove,
perhaps a week elapsing between trips, each time slightly shaking the
trees to make the ripe nuts fall. On the last round, a padded mallet
with a long handle is used to dislodge the remaining nuts. The expense
of harvesting is slight, five or six people being sufficient to care for
a fifty-acre grove.
WASHING AND DRYING
When the nuts are gathered and brought in they are put into a revolving
barrel-churn holding about 12 to 16 gallons. Two buckets of water and
about the same of walnuts are put in together and the churn revolved for
some minutes. Then the nuts are taken out and spread on wire crates and
placed in the sun; they should be raked over two or three times a day.
Or, if the weather is wet, they may be placed in the dry-house in a good
draught at about 70 degrees F. In an artificial drying if the heat
becomes too great the nuts will be rancid, as the oil-cells will burst:
so better err on the side of underheating than overheating. If left out
of doors, cover carefully to protect from dew. The crates for outdoor
drying are placed on trestles in some California groves, in order that
the air may circulate through the nuts. This is much better than placing
them on the ground, where they draw dampness.
SORTING AND GRADING
After the walnuts are gathered, washed, dried and stored for a week or
so to test the correctness of their drying, they are ready to be graded
by passing over a sized screen. The choicest ones will sell at top
market prices, and the culls a little under. The Prince grove harvest is
never graded, as he finds ready sale at highest prices for the entire
output just as it runs after sorting out the few imperfect nuts.
PACKING AND SHIPPING
They are next put into pound cartons, or 50-pound bags, common gunny
sacks, ready for the market.
Not being perishable none are lost in shipping or by keeping. Walnuts
from Oregon groves have been kept two years, tasting as sweet and fresh
as those in their first season. Long hauls are not objectionable, as the
rough handling is not injurious to the well-sealed varieties grown in
Oregon. In this they have an advantage over fruit.
WALNUT YIELD PER ACRE
While it is generally found that seedling trees properly treated come
into bearing the eighth year, this crop is usually light, doubling each
successive season for seven or eight years. From then on there is a
steady increase in crop and hardiness for many years. Often trees in
Oregon bear in their sixth year; while there are instances on record of
trees set out in February bearing the following autumn. This is no
criterion, however, merely an instance illustrating the unusual richness
of Oregon soil, and its perfect adaptability to walnut culture.
Thirty-five acres on the Prince place yielded at twelve years, twelve
tons of fine nuts, which were sold at 18 and 20 cents a pound, two cents
above the market price, making an average of $125 per acre. Another
grove of two acres yielded in their ninth year two tons, or a ton to the
acre, netting the owner $360 an acre.
Mr. A. A. Quarnberg's eleven-year-old trees averaged twenty-five pounds
each. Mr. Henry J. Biddle's ten and twelve-year-old trees averaged
thirty pounds each. One hundred fifty dollars an acre from
twelve-year-old trees is a conservative estimate, though some groves not
cultivated may fall under that figure, while others in a high state of
cultivation will almost double it.
THE WALNUT MARKET
The very fact that in 1907 Oregon-grown walnuts commanded several cents
a pound higher price than those grown elsewhere indicates their market
value. When ordinary nuts sold for 12 and 16 cents a pound Oregon nuts
brought 18 and 20 cents.
New York dealers who cater to the costliest trade throughout the United
States, and who have never handled for this purpose any but the finest
types of imported nuts, pronounced the Oregon product satisfactory from
every standpoint--finely flavored, nutty, meaty and delicious. They were
glad to pay an extra price to secure all that were available.
In the home market the leading dealers of Portland and Northwest cities
readily dispose of all of the Oregon walnuts obtainable at an advanced
price. In fact, the Oregon walnut has commanded a premium in every
market into which it has been introduced.
California walnuts are largely shipped east, the percentage entering the
northern markets being comparatively small. The annual sum expended in
Oregon for imported nuts at the present time is $400,000. When the
Oregon growers are able to supply the home demand alone, shutting out
importations, the population of Oregon will have more than doubled, and
the amount expended in this state for walnuts will approach if it does
not exceed the million-dollar mark. In addition to this the eastern
markets will be clamoring for Oregon walnuts, as they now absorb Hood
River apples, Willamette valley cherries and Rogue River valley pears.
With eastern buyers always ready to pay an extra price for extra grade
products, superior grades of Oregon walnuts will undoubtedly be
contracted for, leaving only the culls for home consumption.
It has been conservatively estimated that at the rate the population of
the United States is increasing, and the rate walnut consumption is
increasing, by the time every available acre in Oregon is in full
bearing the supply will still fall far short of the demand. Judging by
past experience in California this is no chimerical conception. Since
1896 the walnut crop in that state has steadily increased, and in like
proportion has the price advanced, from seven cents in 1896 to twenty
cents in 1907.
COMPARED WITH FRUIT
In comparing walnut culture with fruit, one must take into consideration
the fact that distance from transportation facilities is not a
detriment; that there is very little expense in putting out or
maintaining a walnut grove; that insects, blight and disease are unknown
to walnut groves of Oregon, thus obviating the cost of spraying; that
the expense of harvesting is exceedingly light; that no nut-fruit
perishes--that it does not need to be sold at once, but will keep
indefinitely, making a lost crop practically impossible.
It is estimated by experienced walnut growers that the annual cost of
cultivation and pruning should not exceed $10 an acre, while harvesting
should not exceed 20 cents per hundred pounds. It is a simple matter to
figure the profits.
The original investment in a walnut grove may be made a comparatively
small amount; thus it appeals particularly to those of limited means.
THE POUND PACKAGE
It is difficult or impossible to establish a uniform package good for
every year. Walnuts are not like other fruits; size is not a sure
indication of weight. The pound package used by Mr. Thos. Prince is
3-3/4 x 4-1/2 x 5-1/4 inches, which in 1907 when filled weighed 17
ounces, in 1908 it weighed 16 ounces, and in the dry year of 1909 it
weighed but 14 ounces.