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Annual Bibliography of Commonwealth Literature 2007
This paper argues that discourses of love in Ghanaian market literature for youth offer a view into complex negotiations of agency and empowerment. Drawing on Deborah Durham's notion of youth as "social `shifters'" and Francis Nyamnjoh's conception of the "interconnectedness" of agency, I take Ghanaian market literature as one specific case of how African literature for youth foregrounds questions of continuity and change as African societies enter into increasingly complex global relations. In this literature for youth, received notions of love, often constructed out of impressions from American pop and hip hop music, carry new notions of agency that compete with existing "domesticated" forms. Authors like Ike Tandoh and Evelyn Tay employ discourses of love to offer youth alternative avenues for empowerment in a context of socio-economic disenfranchizement. In a creative process of "straddling", this writing both reveals and reproduces the contradictions that obtain in youth configurations of agency.

Encyclopedia of Needlework

T >> Therese de Dillmont >> Encyclopedia of Needlework

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Having reached the centre, carry the working thread round and round,
under and over the corded threads and under the bars of the netting till
the wheel covers half the bars.

[Illustration: FIG. 652. LAYING THE THREADS FOR A WHEEL AND BEGINNING OF
THE WHEEL.]

[Illustration: FIG. 653. WHEELS WORKED IN TWO WAYS.]

Fig. 653 shows, on the right, a finished wheel, and on the left, another
way in which it can be made, and indicates the course of the thread over
and under the lines, as in a darn. These details show also how, when the
foundation thread of the wheel starts from a corner, it is left single
in the first square until the wheel is finished; then the needle is
slipped back along the little spoke, opposite to the single thread, and
through the wheel, and the single thread is corded like the others.

[Illustration: FIG. 654. RIBBED WHEELS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 655. RIBBED SQUARES OR LOZENGES.]

RIBBED WHEELS (fig. 654).--Make the foundation of the wheels as
before, over 8 threads. To form the ribs at the back of the wheels, see
fig. 654; make a back stitch, on the right side, over a bar of the
netting, and carry on the needle under one bar, so that the thread that
lies outside always crosses 2 bars of the netting.

In this case you must make circles of thread enough, to cover the bars
completely, not half, as before.

The same stitches, as fig. 654 shows, can be made on either side of the
embroidery, and so as to form, either a square or a lozenge (see fig.
655).

[Illustration: FIG. 656. WHEELS SET WITH BUTTONHOLING.]

WHEELS SET WITH BUTTONHOLING (fig. 656).--A very pretty lace-like
effect is produced by encircling the wheels in large squares of netting
with a double setting of stitches. The left detail of fig. 656 shows how
the thread, having been passed under the wheel and twisted once round
the single thread, is carried all round the square and forms 8 loops.

The arrow shows the way in which the loops are taken up, and the first
ring of stitches round the wheel is finished.

The second detail of the same figure explains the course the thread,
that forms the second ring, has to take through the loops and between
the bars; whilst the white line shows the passage of the thread over the
second ring. The third detail represents a wheel, completed.

[Illustration: FIG. 657. STAR WITH ONE-SIDED BUTTONHOLE STITCHES.]

STAR WITH ONE-SIDED BUTTONHOLE STITCHES (fig. 657).--The pattern
represented in fig. 657, is the quickest to work that we know of. Two
buttonhole stitches made upon the outside bar of a square and a simple
crossing of the thread at the bottom, produce elongated triangles which
should always be begun from the knot. Two triangles stand exactly
opposite to each other in one square, and the square that comes in the
middle of the four thus filled, is ornamented with a small wheel.

[Illustration: FIG. 658. ROUNDED CORNERS ON NETTING.]

[Illustration: FIG. 659. LINEN STITCH SET WITH DARNING STITCH.]

[Illustration: FIG. 660. LINEN STITCH SET WITH CORD STITCH.]

ROUNDED CORNERS OF NETTING (fig. 658).--Darning stitches, made over a
thread carried diagonally across one square and the adjacent corners of
that and two other squares, produce the figure illustrated in fig. 658.
The accompanying detail shows the mode of working.

The number of stitches depends on the material you use; there should be
no more than can lie quite flat, side by side, on the diagonal thread.

LINEN STITCH, SET WITH DARNING STITCH (fig. 659).--There are some
patterns it would hardly be possible to work on netting unless you could
soften the outlines by darning stitches, as shown in the foregoing
figure.

When employed as a setting to linen stitch, there should be fewer than
in fig. 658; you may also, instead of interrupting them at every corner,
carry them all round a square, (see the right detail of the figure).

LINEN STITCH SET WITH CORD STITCH (fig. 660).--Many figures are also
either corded or edged with twisted thread; both ways are represented
in the illustration. In the latter case you can use the same thread as
for the linen stitch, or if you wish the setting to be very pronounced,
a thicker one. For instance, if the netting be made of Cordonnet 6 fils
D.M.C No. 25[A] we recommend Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 15 or 20[A] for
the setting. This difference of material is especially noticeable in the
old Cluny Guipure, where the figures worked in linen stitch are edged
with a thread like a cord. But if the linen stitch be bound with cord
stitch, the same thread must be used for it, as for the foundation. A
soft material, like Coton a repriser, makes the best padding for the
overcasting stitches.

[Illustration: FIG. 661. FLOWER IN DOT STITCH ON A FOUNDATION OF LINEN
STITCH.]

FLOWER IN DOT STITCH ON A FOUNDATION OF LINEN STITCH (fig. 661).--With
the help of this stitch, which is described in the chapter on white
embroidery and represented in fig. 179, a great variety of little
supplementary ornaments can be made, on every description of netted
ground.

[Illustration: FIG. 662. BORDERING IN BUTTONHOLE STITCH.]

BORDERING IN BUTTONHOLE STITCH (fig. 662).--Scalloped edges in netting
should be buttonholed; 2 or 3 padding threads should be run in first,
following the bars of the netting, over which the buttonholing is done;
the bars of the netting must not be cut away until the edge be finished.

CUT WORK IN EMBROIDERED NETTING (fig. 663).--Cut work here means half
covering the bars of the netting with button-hole stitches and half
cutting them away with scissors. The inner bars are frequently
ornamented with a double buttonhole edging and knotted picots, see figs.
698 and 699 in the next chapter. You slightly separate the stitches of
the first row of buttonholing so as to be able to introduce the thread
of the second row between them.

[Illustration: FIG. 663. CUT WORK IN EMBROIDERED NETTING.]

[Illustration: FIG. 664. STRAIGHT LOOP STITCH.]

STRAIGHT LOOP STITCH (fig. 664).--In the first row you carry the
thread over one bar and slip it through behind a knot; in the second you
do the same thing, only that above, your needle will pass under 3
threads, two of them the threads of the loop of the first row and the
third a bar of the net. In every square 4 threads cross each other.

[Illustration: FIG. 665. WAVED STITCH.]

WAVED STITCH (fig. 665).--This stitch, which forms a close waved
ground, is produced by passing the thread in each row of the netting
over a square and behind a knot. When the pattern admits of it, as it
mostly does, a considerably thicker thread is used for this stitch and
for the stitches represented in figs. 667, 668, 669 and 670, than that
in which the netting is made. When the netted ground is of Fil a
dentelle D.M.C No. 50,[A] the embroidery upon it may very well be done
in Cordonnet 6 fils. D.M.C No. 10[A], or Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 30.[A]

INTERSECTED LOOP STITCH (fig. 666).--Begin by covering the whole
surface to be embroidered with plain loop stitches, then stretch threads
diagonally across the squares of the netting and the loop stitches; one
set of threads running over the stitches and under the knots of the
netting, the other under the first and second threads of the loop
stitches and over the first crossed threads and the knots.

The laying and stretching of these threads must, it is hardly necessary
to say, be systematically and regularly done.

[Illustration: FIG. 666. INTERSECTED LOOP STITCH.]

GROUND WORKED IN HORIZONTAL LINES (fig. 667).--Make half cross
stitches over 4 squares of netting, by passing the thread alternately
over and under 3 knots, and under 3 squares of the netting. In the
second row, cross the threads over those of the first row, as is shown
in our engraving.

GROUND WORKED IN STITCHES PLACED ONE ABOVE THE OTHER (fig.
668).--Cover a whole row of squares with cross stitches and leave 3 rows
of squares empty. When you have a sufficient number of rows of cross
stitches, take a long needle and pass it upwards from below, and from
right to left, under the two bars of the third upper square; then pass
downwards to the first square of the 3 bottom rows and under the bars
from right to left, so as again to leave 3 squares between the fresh
stitches. The next row of stitches is made in the same manner, so that
the stitches are not only set contrary ways but reciprocally cover each
other.

LATTICED GROUND (fig. 669).--Begin by running the thread, to and fro,
under two vertical bars and over three horizontal ones. When the ground
is entirely covered, carry your thread from right to left, under the
bars over which the first rows of threads are crossed; then take it over
the long crosses, that correspond to 5 squares of netting, and pass it
in the same line under the bars of the netting. In coming back, the long
stitches cross each other over the stitches of the first rows.

[Illustration: FIG. 667. GROUND WORKED IN HORIZONTAL LINES.]

[Illustration: FIG. 668. GROUND WORKED IN STITCHES PLACED ONE ABOVE THE
OTHER.]

[Illustration: FIG. 669. LATTICED GROUND.]

[Illustration: FIG. 670. GROUND WORKED IN RUSSIAN STITCH.]

GROUND WORKED IN RUSSIAN STITCH (fig. 670).--Pass the thread from left
to right, under a bar of the netting, carry it downwards over 4 squares
and pass it again, from left to right, under the bar, then upwards,
again over 4 squares of netting and so on. The stitches of the next rows
are made in the same manner; you have only to see that the loops formed
by the stitches all come on the same line of knots.

GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD (fig. 671).--Herewith begins the
series of stitches, referred to at the beginning of the chapter, copied
in part from one of the oldest and most curious pieces of embroidered
netting we have ever met with. The copies were worked with Cordonnet 6
fils D.M.C No. 25 and ecru Fil a dentelle D.M.C No. 70[A]; the former
being used for the darning and the almond-shaped stitches between; the
latter for the buttonhole stitches. Wherever two sizes of thread are
used for one pattern, all the stitches in the coarse thread should be
put in first and those in the fine, last.

[Illustration: FIG. 671. GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD.]

GROUND WITH WHEELS AND LOOP STITCH (fig. 672).--You begin with the
coarse thread and finish all the wheels first, making them each over 4
threads of the netting; then with the fine thread, you make loop
stitches between them, in rows, as shown in figs. 641 and 642.

GROUND WORKED IN DARNING AND LOOP STITCH (fig. 673).--The darning
stitches are made in the coarse thread, over 4 squares of the netting,
in a horizontal direction, with loop stitches, in the fine thread, made
between them, over the same number of squares.

[Illustration: FIG. 672. GROUND WITH WHEELS AND LOOP STITCH.]

GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD (fig. 674).--Carry the coarse
thread, from right to left, under the first knot of the netting, and
then under the next, from left to right. This has to be done twice, to
and fro, so that the squares of the netting are edged on both sides with
a double layer of threads.

When the whole foundation has been thus covered, take the fine thread
and make loop stitches in the squares between the other rows of
stitches, passing the needle for that purpose over the double stitch.
Lastly, intersect the loop stitches with straight threads and pass the
needle each time through the knot of the netting.

[Illustration: FIG. 673. GROUND WORKED IN DARNING AND LOOP STITCH.]

[Illustration: FIG. 674. GROUND WORKED IN TWO SIZES OF THREAD.]

[Illustration: FIG. 675. GROUND WORKED WITH CROSS STITCHES IN ONE SIZE
OF THREAD.]

GROUND WORKED WITH CROSS STITCHES IN ONE SIZE OF THREAD (fig.
675).--This pattern, very like the foregoing one, consists of 3 diagonal
rows of stitches, worked to and fro, with cross stitches made over them.

You may also begin with the cross stitches, in the fine thread, and work
the triple stitches over them, in the coarse.

GROUND WORKED WITH DARNING AND CORD STITCHES (fig. 676).--Patterns,
executed chiefly in darning stitches, in a comparatively coarse thread,
present a closer and heavier appearance than those we have been
describing. Here, every other square of the netting is filled, as
closely as possible, with stitches; the empty squares between are
intersected diagonally with corded threads.

[Illustration: FIG. 676. GROUND WORKED WITH DARNING AND CORD STITCHES.]

[Illustration: FIG. 677. GROUND WORKED WITH SQUARES AND WHEELS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 678. GROUND WORKED WITH SQUARES AND WHEELS.]

GROUND WORKED WITH SQUARES AND WHEELS (figs. 677, 678, 679).--A ground
very often met with in old embroidered netting, consists of diagonal
lines of squares, closely filled with darning stitches, alternating with
diagonal lines of squares, each with a small wheel in the middle.

In fig. 678, the darning stitches, and the wheels, which are both worked
with the same material, cover 4 squares of the netting.

Larger expanses of netting may also be entirely filled with wheels, fig.
679. To make a really satisfactory grounding of this kind, you should be
careful always to carry your thread over the bars of the netting and
under the threads that are stretched diagonally across.

GROUND WORKED IN CROSS AND DARNING STITCH (fig. 680).--You begin, as
before, by making the close darning stitches, and then proceed to the
cross stitches. To give them the right shape, finish all the rows of
stitches one way first; in the subsequent rows, that cross the first
ones, you introduce the thread between the stitches that were first
crossed.

[Illustration: FIG. 679. GROUND WITH LARGE WHEELS.]

GROUND OF GEOMETRICAL FIGURES (fig. 681).--This pattern, quite
different from all the others, consists of simple geometrical lines.
Fasten the thread to a knot of the netting, then carry it, always
diagonally, under 3 other knots and repeat this 3 times, after which,
carry it once round the bar of the netting, to fasten it, and back again
to the knot which it already encircles, and from thence begin a new
square. Owing to your having always to bring the thread back to the knot
whence the next square is to begin, you will have 4 threads on two of
the sides and 6 on the two others.

[Illustration: FIG. 680. GROUND WORKED IN CROSS AND DARNING STITCH.]

In the second and subsequent rows, the needle has to pass twice under
the angles that were first formed, in order that, over the whole
surface, all the corners may be equally covered and connected.

NETTED INSERTION WORKED IN PLAIN DARNING STITCH (fig. 682).--The taste
for ornamenting not only curtains but bed and table linen also, with
lace and insertion of all kinds, to break the monotony of the large
white surfaces, is becoming more and more general and the insertion here
described will be welcome to such of our readers as have neither time
nor patience for work of a more elaborate nature.

The way to make straight netting has already been fully described in
figs. 625, 626, 627, 628, 629 and 630, and darning stitch in fig. 637.

To those who wish to be saved the trouble of making the netting
themselves, we can strongly recommend various fabrics, intended to take
its place, more especially Filet Canevas, which is an exact imitation of
the finest hand-made netting. The centre part of the pattern in fig.
682, is worked in rows of horizontal darning stitches, the narrow border
in vertical ones.

[Illustration: FIG. 681. GROUND OF GEOMETRICAL FIGURES.]

[Illustration: FIG. 682. NETTED INSERTION WORKED IN PLAIN DARNING
STITCH. MATERIALS--For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25.--For
the darning stitch: Coton a broder D.M.C No. 25, or Coton a repriser
D.M.C Nos. 12 to 50, white or ecru.[A]]

[Illustration: FIG. 683. EMBROIDERED GROUND OF NETTING. MATERIALS--For
the netting: Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50. For the darning stitch:
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 15, or Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 30.--For the
loop stitch: Fil a dentelle D.M.C or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C according to
the size of the netting thread.]

GROUND OF NETTING EMBROIDERED (fig. 683).--We have already had
occasion, in the foregoing explanations, to point out the advantage of
embroidering with two sizes of thread, but it is only in a piece of work
of a certain size that it is possible really to judge of the excellent
effect produced by the use of two threads of different sizes.

The principal lines of the pattern, which are in darning stitch, are
worked in a very coarse thread with a strong twist, Fil a pointer D.M.C,
whilst the loop stitches are in Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C.

Our model was worked in ecru thread but there is nothing to prevent
several colours being introduced, for instance ecru, black or
Gris-Ficelle 462 for the netted foundation; Rouge-Cardinal 346, for the
darning stitches, and Chine d'or D.M.C green and gold or blue and gold,
for the loop stitches and the threads that are carried across inside.

[Illustration: FIG. 684. EMBROIDERED SQUARE OF NETTING. MATERIALS:
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30, or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 15 to
40, white or ecru.[A]]

EMBROIDERED SQUARE OF NETTING WITH TWO KINDS OF LACE SUITABLE FOR THE
BORDER (figs. 684, 685, 686).--Large pieces of embroidered netting are
generally made up of squares and stripes, joined together with ribbon
and fine linen insertions. It is easier and less cumbrous to make the
netting in separate pieces. Squares of different patterns can also be
combined with crochet and pillow lace, in this case of course the
squares have to be arranged with some system.

Fig. 685 represents a lace edging intended for the square fig. 684,
which shows how even in such a simple pattern as this, several colours
may be successfully introduced.

Fig. 686 is a handsomer and more elaborate pattern for the same kind of
purpose. The loop stitches and the linen stitches should be worked in a
very light shade; instead of the colour indicated at the foot of the
engraving, Rouge-Geranium 353, Violet-Mauve 377 or Jaune-Rouille 365 may
be used; for the netting and the loop stitches you may combine, with the
first shade, two shades of Brun-Caroubier 303 and 357, with the second,
two shades of Jaune-vieil Or 678 and 680 and with the third, two shades
of Rouge-Cardinal 346 and 348.

[Illustration: FIG. 685. LACE EDGING FOR THE SQUARE, FIG. 684.
MATERIALS: The same as for fig. 684, and Or fin D.M.C pour la broderie
No. 30. COLOURS--For the netting and the loop stitch: White or
ecru.--For the darning stitch: Brun-Caroubier 303 and Rouge-Grenat
335.[A]]

[Illustration: FIG. 686. LACE EDGING. MATERIALS: The same as for 684.
COLOURS--For the netting: ecru.--For the ground in loop and linen
stitch: Bleu pale 668.--For the bars in darning stitch: Gris-Tilleul 391
and 393.[A]]

PATTERN FOR GROUND (fig. 687).--The peculiar charm of this most
unpretending pattern is chiefly due to the variety of material and
colour introduced into it. The netted ground is made of dark brown
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25, worked over, in the first instance, with
loop stitches in a pale grey, which are afterwards connected by darning
stitches in Coton a repriser Gris-Tilleul 392.

[Illustration: FIG. 687. PATTERN FOR GROUND. MATERIALS--For the netting:
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30. For the embroidery: Coton a
repriser D.M.C No. 25. COLOURS: Brun-Havane 455, Gris-Noisette 423,
Jaune-vieil-Or 680, Gris-Tilleul 391 and Rouge-Geranium 352.[A]]

The same material in Rouge-Geranium, is used for the little centre
squares and the pink crosses, and isolated darned squares are framed
with loose cord stitches in Coton a repriser colour Jaune-vieil-Or 680.


We can also recommend, for the same pattern, the following combination
of colours, all to be found on the D.M.C colour card; namely, Bleu pale
668 for the netting; Chine d'or, gold with dark blue for the loop
stitches; Ganse turque D.M.C No. 12 (Turkish gold cord) for the darning
stitches, between the loop stitches; Coton a broder or Cordonnet 6 fils
in Rouge-Cornouille 450, for the detached darned squares and Coton a
repriser, in Jaune-d'Or 667 for the setting of all the different parts
of the pattern.

[Illustration: FIG. 688. EMBROIDERY ON NETTING WITH DIFFERENT-SIZED
LOOPS. MATERIALS--For the netting: Fil a dentelle D.M.C No. 40. For the
embroidery: Coton a broder D.M.C No. 16, white or ecru.[A]]

EMBROIDERY ON NETTING WITH DIFFERENT-SIZED LOOPS (fig. 688).--The
netting, described and represented in fig. 620, with plain, oblong and
double loops, here forms the ground for the embroidery.

[Illustration: FIG. 689. SQUARE IN CUT NETTING.]

[Illustration: FIG. 690. LACE EDGING IN CUT NETTING. MATERIALS: Fil a
dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, in three shades of one colour.]

In order to make the isolated loop stitches, the thread which forms the
cross in the middle must be carried to the middle of the bar, the loops
that form the stitches must be finished and the thread carried back to
the knot whence it started. It must then be taken three times backwards
and forwards over the foundation thread and the two bars of the
netting, when the stitches, into and over 3 squares of the netting,
should be made. The last row in the engraving shows the pattern in the
successive stages of its development.

[Illustration: FIG. 691. NETTING INSERTION MATERIALS--For the netting:
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 40 white or ecru.--For the embroidery: Ganse
turque D.M.C Nos. 6 and 12.]

SQUARE AND EDGING IN CUT NETTING (figs. 689 and 690).--Few patterns
admit of such a successful application of all the stitches hitherto
described, as the square and edging presented to our readers in the two
subjoined figures. On a netted ground of rather fine thread, we have in
the first place, linen stitch, in the border, worked in rather a coarser
thread than the ground; then raised wheels, buttonholed bars with picots
in the centre, plain wheels very close together, and long ribbed bars
worked in darning stitch.

The edging, to match the square, is worked in the original in pale
shades, in contrast to the square which is executed entirely in ecru
thread. The squares in the netted footing of the lace are loosely
overcast with pale Violet-Mauve 316, the same colour is also used for
the wheels in the outside edge, each of which fills a square, and for
the loop stitches round them; whilst the middle one of the three upper
ribbed wheels and the star are worked in dark Violet-Mauve 315. The
crosses in linen stitch, the three lower ribbed wheels and the long
ribbed bars in darning stitch, are in Gris-Tilleul 392.

NETTED INSERTION (fig. 691).--This is a copy of a beautiful piece of
embroidered netting, to all appearance, several centuries old, and in a
state that rendered, even the most delicate handling almost impossible.

After several experiments, the best result has been arrived at, and the
Turkish cord in which the original is made, has now been manufactured
for netting purposes, as well as for other kinds of decorative work,
already alluded to, and referred to again later on.

The first foundation, that is, the actual netting, for a thing of this
kind, should be made in white or ecru thread, with very small meshes;
the pattern itself is embroidered on the netting with Ganse turque D.M.C
No. 12; this material, ecru and gold mixed, gives the work a glittering
and peculiarly elegant appearance, unobtainable in any other.

The execution is extremely easy, it being worked entirely in darning
stitch; but the drawing should be copied with great accuracy and the
wide braid very carefully sewn on with close stitches round the squares,
which are filled in with darning stitches made in Ganse turque No. 12.

Any netting pattern can be copied in this braid, and the simplest piece
of work of the kind is worth mounting on a rich foundation of silk,
brocade, velvet or plush. To give a single example, the insertion here
described and illustrated, was mounted on slate-blue plush and has been
universally admired.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and
sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.





[Illustration: INSERTION.--IRISH LACE WITH RAISED ORNAMENTS.]




IRISH LACE.


Irish lace, also known under the name of Renaissance lace, from its
having been first made in the sixteenth century, is an imitation of the
earliest pillow laces; it ought, properly speaking, to be called French
lace, having been invented in France and thence introduced into England
and Ireland.

It is composed of braid or tape, formed into figures, joined together by
needlemade, corded or buttonhole bars and fillings of different kinds,
or by bars alone.

The lace stitches and bars are almost the same as those used in fine
Venetian point, but they are executed in a coarser material so that this
section of our work may be considered as a preparation for the different
kinds of lace, to be described in the next chapter.

MATERIALS (fig. 692).--The braids used for making Irish lace are an
English speciality and manufactured exclusively in England; they are
very various in shade, width and thickness, and are to be had white,
unbleached, grey and pale yellow, narrow and wide, coarse and fine in
texture, with and without holes, open edge and picots, with large
medallions and small.

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