George MacDonald - "Adela Cathcart, Vol. 3"

Jessie Graham Flower - "Grace Harlowe's Golden Summer"

Florence Holbrook - "Northland Heroes"

Clotilda Jennings - "Isabel Leicester"

Annual Bibliography of Commonwealth Literature 2007
This paper argues that discourses of love in Ghanaian market literature for youth offer a view into complex negotiations of agency and empowerment. Drawing on Deborah Durham's notion of youth as "social `shifters'" and Francis Nyamnjoh's conception of the "interconnectedness" of agency, I take Ghanaian market literature as one specific case of how African literature for youth foregrounds questions of continuity and change as African societies enter into increasingly complex global relations. In this literature for youth, received notions of love, often constructed out of impressions from American pop and hip hop music, carry new notions of agency that compete with existing "domesticated" forms. Authors like Ike Tandoh and Evelyn Tay employ discourses of love to offer youth alternative avenues for empowerment in a context of socio-economic disenfranchizement. In a creative process of "straddling", this writing both reveals and reproduces the contradictions that obtain in youth configurations of agency.

Encyclopedia of Needlework

T >> Therese de Dillmont >> Encyclopedia of Needlework




PATTERNS PRODUCED IN NETTING BY INCREASING AND DECREASING (fig.
617).--Patterns of this kind are made by netting the meshes together in
regular sequence and taking up as many meshes as you have netted
together, or vice versa. You may increase and decrease in the same rows,
or at an interval of so many rows.

[Illustration: FIG. 618. LOOSE LOOPS IN CLUSTERS.]

Two sizes of thread should be used for this patterns. To show the
relation they should bear to one another, we instance: Fil a pointer
D.M.C No. 30 with Fil a dentelle D.M.C No. 50[A], or Coton a tricoter
D.M.C Nos. 14 and 30[A], with Coton a tricoter D.M.C No. 50[A], or
Coton a repriser D.M.C No. 25 with No. 100.[A]

Begin by 3 rows of plain netting with the finer thread over the small
mesh, followed by one row with the coarser thread over the large mesh;
then, with the coarse thread over the large mesh, one row, in which you
net every two loops together and one row, with two loops in every one,
so that the number of loops remains the same. These are followed by 3
rows of plain netting with the fine thread on the small mesh.

[Illustration: FIG. 619. LOOSE LOOPS IN CLUSTERS. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG.
618.]

LOOSE LOOPS IN CLUSTERS (figs. 618 and 619).--These clusters of loose
loops are made in the following manner:

1st row--one loop, the knot of which must be a little distance from the
mesh; put the thread over the mesh and the needle through the loop where
the knot is; repeat this three or four times, making the loops all of
the same length. Then unite all the loops with one knot, carrying the
needle from right to left, round the loops, instead of putting it
through the loop of the previous row.

2nd row--make one loop over each loop of the first row, leaving out the
loops that form the cluster.

As may be gathered from the drawing, many different patterns can be
worked upon the netting in this manner.

[Illustration: FIG. 620. NETTING COMPOSED OF PLAIN, DOUBLE AND OBLONG
LOOPS.]

NETTING COMPOSED OF PLAIN, DOUBLE AND OBLONG LOOPS (fig.
620).--Netting composed of large and small loops is the kind generally
used as a groundwork for embroidery. The loops of it are straight;
diamond netting will serve the same purpose, but as it is less commonly
used we have given the preference to the straight.

The whole first row consists of a double and a plain loop alternately;
the second, entirely of oblong loops, which are made by passing the
thread only once over the mesh, and so, that in netting on the double
loop, the knot is brought close to the needle, where as, in netting the
plain loop, it hangs free; so that, as shown in fig. 620, all the loops
of the 2nd row are of the same length. In the 3rd row, which is like the
first, the plain loops should come between the small holes and the
double ones between the large holes.

[Illustration: FIG. 621. CIRCULAR NETTING COMPOSED OF LONG AND SHORT
LOOPS.]

CIRCULAR NETTING COMPOSED OF LONG AND SHORT LOOPS (fig. 621).--Make
thirty or thirty one loops over a large mesh with a very stout material,
such as Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 20, or a double thread of Cordonnet 6
fils D.M.C No. 30, then draw up the thread on which the loops are
strung, as tightly as possible, so as to form quite a small ring for the
centre, and fasten off.

For the next row, also made in coarse thread, fasten the thread on to a
long loop and make one loop into each loop of the first row, over a
small mesh. Use the same mesh for all the subsequent rows, which should
be worked in a finer thread, such as Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 50 or
60.

If you want to avoid fastening on the thread afresh for each row, make a
loop over the thumb.

MAKING LOOPS OVER THE THUMB.--Put the thread, as for a plain loop over
the mesh and fingers, and put the needle through the loop, likewise as
for a plain loop, but before tightening the knot, draw the mesh out of
the loop just made and make it exactly as long as the loop above.

[Illustration: FIG. 622. CIRCULAR NETTING FORMED BY INCREASES.]

CIRCULAR NETTING FORMED BY INCREASES (fig. 622).--Make 10 loops on the
foundation loop, close the ring, then go on, making a row with one knot
in the first loop and two knots in the second, until the net attains the
right circumference; in the subsequent rows, increase by one loop, that
is to say, make two knots in each of the previous increases.

[Illustration: FIG. 623. SQUARE OF NETTING. BEGUN.]

SQUARE OF NETTING (figs. 623 and 624).--To make squares of netting
with straight loops, begin by making two loops or three knots. Make two
knots in each of the following rows so that each row is increased by one
loop. Continue to increase until you have one loop more than the square
should number.

[Illustration: FIG. 624. SQUARE OF NETTING. COMPLETED.]

Following this row with the extra stitch, make a row without either
increase or intake and begin the intakes in the next row, joining the
two last loops of each row together by a knot. Finish the two last loops
over the thumb.

[Illustration: FIG. 625. SQUARE OF NETTING BEGUN FROM THE MIDDLE.
BEGUN.]

[Illustration: FIG. 626. SQUARE OF NETTING BEGUN FROM THE MIDDLE.
COMPLETED.]

SQUARE OF NETTING BEGUN FROM THE MIDDLE (figs. 625 and 626).--Instead
of beginning a square from the corner, in the manner just described, it
may be begun from the middle.

[Illustration: FIG. 627. STRIPE OF STRAIGHT NETTING EDGED WITH EMPTY
LOOPS.]

Cast on the required number of loops, make an intake in each row, by
omitting to take up the last loop of a row. In coming back, your first
knot will thus be made over the last loop but one of the previous row,
fig. 625. To complete the square, fasten the thread on again, to the end
of the thread of the last row, then make a similar to it, and repeat the
same rows you made at the beginning (see fig. 626).

[Illustration: FIG. 628. STRIPE OF STRAIGHT NETTING.]

STRIPES OF STRAIGHT NETTING (figs. 627 and 628).--These can be begun
and finished in two ways. The simplest way, more especially when they
are to be embroidered afterwards, is to cast on the necessary number of
loops, to decrease on one side by dropping a loop, fig. 627, or by
joining two loops together with a knot, fig. 628, and to increase on the
other side, by making two knots over one loop.

Great care must be taken not to change the order of the intakes and
increases, as any mistake of the kind would break the lines of squares,
and interfere with the subsequent embroidery, unless there happened to
be more loops in the stripe than stitches in the pattern, in which case
the superfluous loops might be cut away when the embroidery is finished.

STRAIGHT NETTING WITH A SCALLOPED EDGE (fig. 629).--The second way of
making stripes of straight netting is to begin by a square. After making
two loops on the foundation loop, make rows with increases, until you
have the required number of loops. Then make an increase in every row to
the left and leave the last loop empty in every row to the right.
Continuing the increases on the left, you net 4 rows, without
increasing or decreasing on the right, whilst in the next 4, you again
leave the outside loop empty.

[Illustration: FIG. 629. STRAIGHT NETTING WITH A SCALLOPED EDGE.]

SQUARE FRAME OF NETTING (fig. 630).--Handkerchief, counterpane and
chair-back borders can be netted in one piece, leaving an empty square
in the centre. After casting on the loops as for an ordinary square of
netting, letter _a_, increase them to double the number required for the
border. Thus, for example, if the border is to consist of 3 squares, you
make 6 loops, then leave 3 loops empty on the left and continue to work
to the right and decrease to the left, up to the dotted line from _c_ to
_c_. After this you begin to decrease on the right and increase on the
left, up to the dotted line from _e_ to _e_.

[Illustration: FIG. 630. SQUARE FRAME OF NETTING.]

Leaving the right side of the net, you now fasten on the thread at _c_,
where the 3 empty loops are, and here you make your increases on the
right side and your intakes on the left, till you come to the corner,
from whence you decrease on the right and increase on the left, up to
letter _g_. Stop on the left side and then work from left to right,
passing over the row that is marked _e_. The fourth corner, letter _b_,
is worked like any other piece of straight netting, with an intake in
each row, until there are only two loops left.

[Illustration: FIG. 631. DIAGONAL NETTING WITH CROSSED LOOPS. ORIGINAL
SIZE. MATERIALS--For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30,
or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 40.[A] For the darning stitches:
Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 12 to 20, or Coton a repriser D.M.C Nos. 12
to 50.[A]]

DIAGONAL NETTING WITH CROSSED LOOPS (figs. 631 and 632). To work this
simple and effective pattern, begin by making a stripe of plain netting,
14 loops in width, for the middle. When it is long enough for your
purpose, take up all the loops on one side on a strong thread; fasten
the work to the cushion again and work 3 rows, along the other edge in
the following manner.

1st row--long loops, to be made by the thread being passed thrice over
the mesh.

2nd row--here, 3 loops are so made as to cross each other, that is, you
begin by putting your netting-needle at first into the 3rd loop,
counting from left to right, then into the 1st, and lastly into the
middle one of the three, so that the right loop leans to the left and
the left one to the right.

3rd row--one plain loop in each of the loops of the previous row. You
now, draw out the thread, run in on the other side, and run it in
through the loops last made, in order to make 3 rows again, as above
described, on the bottom side.

[Illustration: FIG. 632. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 631.]

When this is done, you begin the scallops, composed of 12 knots or 11
loops, or 14 loops and 15 knots = net 5 rows, leaving the outside loops
empty, fig. 632, stop on the left and proceed with: 6 knots or 5 plain
loops, 2 or 3 long loops with 3 overs, 3 plain loops = turn the work = 3
plain loops, 3 knots = turn the work = 2 loops with 3 overs, 3 knots =
turn the work = 2 plain loops, 2 knots = turn the work = cross 2 or 3
loops, according to the number you crossed in the middle, then carry the
working thread to the middle of the long loops, and connect them by 2
knots = pass the needle under the knot of the last long loop, then, on
the right side net: 3 plain loops = turn the work = 3 plain loops, 3
knots = turn the work = 2 plain loops, 2 knots = turn the work and
continue the rows of plain netting until you have only 2 loops left.

To reach the next scallop, pass the netting-needle through each hole of
the net and round each thread.

Finish off the scallops with a row of plain netting, made with a coarser
thread than the foundation.

[Illustration: FIG. 633. NETTED FRINGE.

MATERIALS--For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30 or Fil
a pointer D.M.C No. 30.[A]

For the fringes: Soutache D.M.C No. 3 or Lacets superfins D.M.C No.
4.[A]]

These netted edgings are generally made in unbleached cotton, because
the patterns afterwards embroidered upon them in coarse, white knitting
or darning cotton, show best upon it. The thread for this purpose should
be used double, and the pattern worked in darning stitches, made over 8
squares of the netting; the 8th knot is then encircled by a loop and the
thread carried down over 8 squares and a loop again made round the 8th
knot. After making 4 rows of stitches on the netting, cut 3 bars between
the rows of white stitches.

The row of openwork produced in this way has a very good effect and
greatly improves the look of the lace.

NETTED FRINGE (fig. 633).--Plain netting, pretty as it is, looks
rather poor, unless ornamented with embroidery of some kind. The double
netting, illustrated in fig. 633, will prove a welcome novelty. The
footing is worked in crochet, with braid, secured on both sides by chain
stitches.

Into every fourth of these chain stitches, net one loop, missing the 3
between. At the end of the row, turn the work and make the knot in the
middle of the 3 chain stitches, so that the 2 loops of netting cross
each other.

In the second, or rather the third row, the knots are again made first
into the front loops, into those of the first row that is; in the fourth
row, into those of the second row.

When the stripe is sufficiently wide, finish it off with tassels, made
of Soutache D.M.C No. 3. Instead of tying up the lengths of braid with a
thread, twisted round them and fastened off with a stitch, make 2 looped
knots round them with an end of the braid, where the neck of the tassel
should come.

[Illustration: FIG. 634. WIRE FRAME FOR EMBROIDERED NETTING.]

EMBROIDERED NETTING.--Embroidered netting, also known as Filet
Guipure, Cluny Guipure, and Richelieu Guipure, is a netted ground, with
patterns of one kind or another, worked upon it in a variety of
stitches.

IMPLEMENTS REQUIRED FOR EMBROIDERED NETTING.--Besides scissors,
needles and thread, a light steel frame is the only thing required, and
this renders embroidered netting very popular.

The needles should be long, and blunt; those called saddlers needles are
the best.

WIRE FRAME FOR EMBROIDERED NETTING (fig. 634).--The frame on which the
net is stretched should be made of strong iron wire, that will not bend
in the using. In shape, it may be square or oblong, according to whether
squares or edgings are to be made upon it, but the sides must be
straight, so that the net can be evenly stretched.

[Illustration: FIG. 635. MOUNTING THE NETTING ON THE FRAME.]

This wire frame must be covered, first with wadding or tow, as shown in
fig. 634, and then with silk ribbon, which must be wound tightly round
it, and more particularly at the corners, very closely, so that it may
be quite firm and not twist about when the netting is sewn in. The ends
of the ribbon should be secured by two or three stitches.

[Illustration: FIG. 636. MOUNTING THE NETTING ON THE FRAME WITH AN
AUXILIARY TAPE.]

MOUNTING THE NETTING ON THE FRAME (fig. 635).--When the netting is
exactly the size of the inside of the frame, it need only be secured to
it with overcasting stitches, set very closely at the corners.

MOUNTING THE NETTING ON THE FRAME WITH AN AUXILIARY TAPE (fig.
636).--When the netting, is smaller, the space between it and the frame,
must be filled up with strong very evenly woven, linen tape, sewn on all
round the netting.

The tape must be very tightly held in the sewing, so that it even forms
little gathers all round; this will help you to stretch the netting in
mounting it without injuring it, and is especially necessary when the
netting is not quite evenly made. Fig. 636 shows how the tape is sewn
on, the fold that has to be made at the corners, and the way to fix the
netting into the frame.

Long stripes or large pieces of work, can be mounted on waxcloth, but we
cannot recommend shortening the preparatory work in this manner, as the
squares of netting are never so regular as when they are made in a
frame.

MATERIALS FOR EMBROIDERED NETTING.--Thick threads with a strong twist
are the best for darned, or embroidered netting, such as Cordonnet 6
fils D.M.C[A] (crochet cotton), or Fil a dentelle D.M.C[A] (lace
thread).

There are however certain old kinds of embroidered netting made in soft
loose silk, for imitating which it is best to use, Coton a repriser
D.M.C[A] that being quite the best substitute for the original material.

THE STITCHES USED FOR EMBROIDERED NETTING.--These are so multifarious
and admit of so many different combinations, that not a few of them
seeing that be quite new to our readers, willsome we have never yet come
across in any book on the subject that has come under our notice.

ORDINARY DARNING STITCH (fig. 637).--The simplest stitch of all for
covering a netted ground is the ordinary darning stitch; drawing the
thread, that is to say, in and out of the number of squares, prescribed
by the pattern, and backwards and forwards as many times as is necessary
to fill them up.

[Illustration: FIG. 637. ORDINARY DARNING STITCH.]

[Illustration: FIG. 638. LINEN STITCH. FIRST STITCHES.]

The number of stitches depends, to a certain extent, on the material
employed; with Coton a broder D.M.C for example, you will have to make
more stitches than with one of the coarser numbers of Coton a repriser
D.M.C.

This is the stitch generally used for reproducing a cross stitch pattern
on a netted ground and is especially to be recommended for covering
large surfaces, curtains, counterpanes and so forth, as it is quickly
done and shows up the pattern well.

[Illustration: FIG. 639. LINEN STITCH. SECOND STITCHES.]

[Illustration: FIG. 640. LINEN STITCH. FORMATION OF THE CORNERS.]

LINEN STITCH (figs. 638 and 639).--This is the stitch most often met
with in the old embroideries, it being the one the solid parts of the
leaves and flowers, and the borders are generally worked in.

Fasten on the thread to a knot of the netting and carry it twice to and
fro, over and under the threads of the netting, so that at the end of
the row, every second thread passes under and over the thread of the
netting, as it is carried upwards again.

This constitutes the first layer of threads, the second completes the
linen stitch and is made in the same way, only across the first,
alternately taking up and missing a thread as is done, in darning. The
thread may also be carried both ways over the threads of the squares. In
this case you must draw an uneven number of threads through the squares,
otherwise the crossing of the threads will be irregular in the last
square.

LINEN STITCH. FORMATION OF THE CORNERS (fig. 640).--When linen stitch
is used for the border of a pattern, and a corner has to be formed, you
begin by carrying the threads over a given number of squares. This first
layer, especially in the case of long stripes, must be kept very slack,
and to ensure the threads being all of the same length, lay a fine mesh
or a thick knitting needle at one end and stretch the threads over it.
After carrying the second layer across a few squares, take away the mesh
or needle. The threads of the first layer become gradually shorter, from
the passage of the cross threads in and out between them, and end by
being just long enough to prevent the last embroidered squares from
being too tightly stretched.

On reaching the corner, you cross the threads of the next row, as shown
in fig. 640. The first threads of the second side form the foundation of
the corner square; from the second corner square you pass to the third;
from the third to the fourth, carrying your thread alternately over and
under the threads that were stretched for the first corner.

LOOP STITCH (POINT D'ESPRIT) (figs. 641 and 642).--This is a light
open stitch, chiefly used for making a less transparent foundation than
plain netting. Fasten the thread to the middle of one bar of the
netting, then make a loose loop to the middle of the top bar of the same
square, fig. 641, by carrying the thread, from left to right, over one
vertical and one horizontal bar of the net and inserting the needle
downwards from above under the bar and in front of the working thread.
For the second row back, also represented in fig. 641, you draw the
needle through, underneath the bar above the loop stitch and make the
loop upwards from below; in doing this the working thread must lie to
the left, in front of the needle. Fig. 642 shows how to join the rows
and pass the needle through the stitches of the preceding row.

[Illustration: FIG. 641. LOOP STITCH. 1ST AND 2ND COURSE OF THE THREAD.]

[Illustration: FIG. 642. LOOP STITCH. SEVERAL ROWS COMPLETED.]

[Illustration: FIG. 643. STAR FORMED OF LOOSE THREADS LAYING THE
UNDERNEATH THREADS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 644. STAR FORMED OF LOOSE THREADS. LAYING THE UPPER
THREADS.]

STAR COMPOSED OF LOOSE THREADS (figs. 643, 644, 645).--This star
covers 16 squares of netting. Fasten the thread to the middle knot of
the 16 squares, then carry it diagonally over 4 squares, three times
from left to right under a knot of the foundation and three times from
right to left. In this way, the bottom rays of the star are formed. For
the stitches that complete the figure, you start from the middle and
following the direction of the little arrow in the illustration, you
cover the netting with 3 horizontal and 3 vertical threads, carried
over 4 squares. When you have laid the vertical threads, slip the needle
4 or 5 times round in a circle, under the diagonal and over the straight
threads, but always over the bars of the netting. This completes the
star, as it is represented in fig. 645. Care must be taken to make the
stitches lie quite flat side by side, and not one on the top of the
other.

[Illustration: FIG. 645. STAR FORMED OF LOOSE THREADS. FINISHED.]

DARNING STITCH (POINT DE REPRISE) (figs. 646 and 647).--Little flowers
and leaves are generally executed in this stitch; the first course of
the thread is shown in fig. 646. Leaves can be made with one, two or
three veins. Carry the needle, invariably from the middle, first to the
right and then to the left, under the threads of the foundation and push
the stitches close together, as they are made, with the point of your
needle. This you will be able to do most easily by holding the work so
as to make the stitches towards you.

[Illustration: FIG. 646. LEAVES WORKED IN DARNING STITCH. BEGUN.]

[Illustration: FIG. 647. LEAVES WORKED IN DARNING STITCH. COMPLETED.]

For a leaf with only one division or vein, like the left leaf in fig.
646, merely run the needle through the middle of the threads, whereas
for a leaf with two or three veins, you must run it, over and under,
either one, or two threads (see the right leaf in fig. 646).

In working leaves of this kind in darning stitch, you must draw your
stitches at the top and bottom of the leaf rather tighter than in the
middle, so as to give them the proper shape. If you wish to make them
very slender at the bottom, you can finish them off with a few
overcasting stitches.

Fig. 647 represents two leaves completed, one with one vein and the
other, with two.

POINTED SCALLOPS IN DARNING STITCH (fig. 648).--The simplest way to
work these scallops is to carry a thread, as shown in the illustration,
to and fro over the square, from the knot in one corner to the middle of
the bar above and downwards to the opposite knot, round which the thread
is carried and passed upwards again to the middle. As the scallop must
always be begun from the top, you will have, two foundation threads on
one side and three on the other. Here likewise, you must push the
threads as closely together as possible with the needle.

[Illustration: FIG. 648. POINTED SCALLOPS IN DARNING STITCH.]

[Illustration: FIG. 649. POINTED SCALLOPS IN BUTTONHOLE STITCH.]

POINTED SCALLOPS IN BUTTONHOLE STITCH (fig. 649).--Another quite as
pretty and easy way of working pointed scallops on a netted foundation
is by making two buttonhole stitches before crossing to the opposite
side. As shown in the foregoing illustration, you begin by stretching
single or double foundation threads across; then beginning at the point,
you make, alternately right and left, 2 buttonhole stitches over the
foundation threads, so that the working thread is only carried across to
the opposite side after every second stitch.

VEINED POINTED SCALLOPS (fig. 650).--A third way of making pointed
scallops is by first stretching a thread to and fro across the middle of
the square, after which you slip the needle from left to right under the
middle thread, and underneath the left bar from above. Then you carry
the needle, from right to left, over the foundation thread and under the
right bar and so on. The one thread must be drawn tightly round the
other, in order that the stitches may form close and evenly shaped
veins, like small cords, on the wrong side of the scallop. There must be
enough stitches to completely cover the foundation thread that crosses
the middle of the square.

[Illustration: FIG. 650. VEINED POINTED SCALLOPS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 651. POINTED SCALLOPS IN VENETIAN STITCH.]

POINTED SCALLOPS IN VENETIAN STITCH (fig. 651).--The prettiest
scallops of all are those worked in Venetian stitch. You begin, by
making from 8 to 10 buttonhole stitches over one bar of the netting,
then you work on with the same stitch backwards and forwards, making one
stitch less in each row, until you come to the one which forms the point
of the scallop and is fastened to the bar above; you carry the working
thread back on the wrong side to the lower bar, and then under the
buttonhole stitches to the next square of the netting. Scallops worked
in this manner, can be overcast round the edges in the way described
further on, in fig. 660.

WHEELS EMBROIDERED ON NETTING (figs. 652 and 653).--To make wheels or
spiders, as they are also called, you have first to fasten the thread to
the middle knot of four squares, thence you carry it diagonally right
and left, fig. 652, right detail, across the empty squares of netting
and the knot, and return to the middle, overcasting your first thread
by the way, so as to form a closely twisted cord. This is called cording
a thread.

Copyright (c) 2007. topboookz.com. All rights reserved.