S. Weir Mitchell - "Mr. Kris Kringle"

Moliere (Poquelin) - "The Magnificent Lovers"

E. Hermitte and G. Bodenbender - "Catalogo Instructivo de las Colecciones Mineralogicas"

Edgar Rice Burroughs - "Ce la koro de la tero"

Annual Bibliography of Commonwealth Literature 2007
This paper argues that discourses of love in Ghanaian market literature for youth offer a view into complex negotiations of agency and empowerment. Drawing on Deborah Durham's notion of youth as "social `shifters'" and Francis Nyamnjoh's conception of the "interconnectedness" of agency, I take Ghanaian market literature as one specific case of how African literature for youth foregrounds questions of continuity and change as African societies enter into increasingly complex global relations. In this literature for youth, received notions of love, often constructed out of impressions from American pop and hip hop music, carry new notions of agency that compete with existing "domesticated" forms. Authors like Ike Tandoh and Evelyn Tay employ discourses of love to offer youth alternative avenues for empowerment in a context of socio-economic disenfranchizement. In a creative process of "straddling", this writing both reveals and reproduces the contradictions that obtain in youth configurations of agency.

Encyclopedia of Needlework

T >> Therese de Dillmont >> Encyclopedia of Needlework




Cast on 13 chain and close the ring.

1st row--1 plain on the 1st of the 13 chain, 5 chain, 1 plain on the 4th
chain, 5 chain, 1 plain on the 7th chain, 5 chain, 1 plain on the 10th
chain, 5 chain, 1 plain on the 13th chain.

2nd row--1 plain on the 1st plain of the 1st row * 1 plain on the 1st of
the 5 chain; 5 chain, 1 plain on the 5th chain. Repeat 3 times from *.

3rd row--5 plain on the 5 chain, 5 chain, 5 plain and so on.

4th and 5th rows--continue to increase, as in the 3rd row.

6th row--after the 3rd plain, 1 tuft in the contrasting colour (see fig.
431).

The contrasting colour is to be introduced into the work at the first
tuft, and cut off when the last is finished.

The ends of the coloured threads must be worked in under the stitches of
the next row. The square may be of any size; it is bordered by small
picot scallops by means of which the different squares are joined
together.

[Illustration: FIG. 475. STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES.

MATERIALS: Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 8, or Coton a tricoter
D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12 and Lacets surfins D.M.C No. 4, or Soutache D.M.C No.
21/2.[A]

COLOURS: Gris-Lin 716 and Rouge-Bordeaux 497, Gris-Tilleul 393 and
Bleu-Faience 484 or Brun-Caroubier 356 and Jaune-Rouille 308 etc.[A]]

STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES (fig. 475).--We recommend the use of Soutache
D.M.C or Lacets superfins D.M.C (braids) for the coloured stitches, in
the place of cotton. The dark stitches standing, so to speak, on another
ground of stitches the pattern will look brighter, if it be worked in a
flat material that will spread out more than cotton does.

The stripe, worked in its entire length and always on the right side,
must be begun by a chain of stitches of the length the stripe is to be.

1st row--1 plain stitch on each chain stitch.

2nd row--1 plain stitch with white or unbleached cotton, on each second
stitch of the preceding row; 1 long plain stitch with the coloured
cotton or the braid, in each second loop of the chain stitch.

When red and white cotton are used, only one thread must be drawn
through the 1st loop, and the other through the two last loops.

3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th rows--plain stitches of the colour of the
grounding = 4th row--between every 5 coloured stitches 3 white = 6th
row--between every 4 red, 5 white = 8th row--between every 3 red, 7
white = 10th row--between every 2 red, 9 white = 12th row--between the
single red stitches, 11 white plain.

In the second half of the pattern the red stitches must increase in the
same proportion as that in which they decreased before.

PATTERN OF A COUNTERPANE IN TUNISIAN CROCHET (fig. 476). This pattern,
on a reduced scale, of a counterpane in Tunisian crochet, though it is
worked here in several colours, can be done all in one. The numbers of
the stitches, as they are here given, refer of course to the pattern
represented in our figure; if worked on a larger scale, the number of
stitches would have to be increased every way in the proper proportion.

For the inner square, which is worked in a light material, make 20 chain
stitches, on which you make 17 rows of plaited Tunisian crochet, fig.
445, then fasten off.

[Illustration: FIG. 476. PATTERN OF A COUNTERPANE IN TUNISIAN CROCHET.

MATERIALS: Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 8, or Coton a tricoter
D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12.[A]

COLOURS: Gris-Amadou 385 and Rouge-Cardinal 346, Vert-Bouteille 492 and
Violet-Mauve 316, or Bleu-Gentiane 479 and Gris-Ecru 706.]

For the first coloured border, which immediately surrounds the centre
square, take a coloured thread and make 2 chain stitches and upon these
the common Tunisian stitch, fig. 444. Increase to the right in every row
by one stitch, to the number of 6 = then put the needle into the first
stitch on one side of the square, turn the thread round and draw it
through. Here you must be careful to observe, in the first instance,
that the second part which is now to be joined to the square, should
always remain on the left side of the square and secondly, that the
thread with which you join the two parts together, should lie to the
left and be drawn through, from the wrong side to the right. Having now
got 7 Tunisian stitches on the needle, make 18 double rows, and join
the last stitch of each row to a stitch of the square.

When these rows are finished, you proceed to decrease on the right till
you have only 2 stitches left; and then again to increase as at the
beginning of the stripe. At each increase, after each double row you
must pass the thread through the corresponding stitch opposite of the
same row. When you have again got 7 stitches on the needle, join them as
before to the square. Work round the 4 sides of the square in this
manner and when you come to the last decrease, join the stitches to
those of the first increase, and fasten off. The next stripes are to be
worked in the same way; they may be made either wider or narrower,
plain, or ornamented with a cross stitch pattern which you work upon
them.

[Illustration: FIG. 477. PATTERN OF COUNTERPANE WORKED IN STRIPES.

MATERIALS: Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Coton a tricoter D.M.C
Nos. 6 to 14, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 15.[A]]

PATTERN OF COUNTERPANE WORKED IN STRIPES (fig. 477).--This is intended
for a child's coverlet and is worked in pale blue, Bleu-Indigo 334, and
white; the stripes and the lace border, in white, the setting, partly in
white, partly in blue.

For the first stripe, make a foundation chain of 26 stitches; then
counting back, draw the needle through the 6th and 7th chain stitches,
drawing up all the three loops together = 2 chain, then put the needle
again through 2 chain stitches, draw up the 3 loops together = 2 chain
and so on.

Coming back, make the loop of the first stitch and that of the second on
the chain stitches of the preceding row = begin every row with 3 chain,
which form picots along the edge of the stripe; when the stripes are
finished, take a blue thread and make 1 plain stitch on each picot and 3
chain.

This blue row is followed by a white one, worked in cluster stitch, fig.
426, with 2 chain stitches between every 2 clusters.

Then follows another blue row of one plain stitch on each chain stitch
of the previous row. The second blue row consists entirely of plain
stitches worked along the long sides of the stripes, which are joined
together afterwards, but not along the short sides until the counterpane
is finished; then the stitches should border all the 4 sides. The second
stripe, which should be of the same width as the first, is worked in
Tunisian crochet; for the edge make one row of plain stitches in blue,
one of cluster stitches in white, and then again a row of plain in blue.

Join the stripes together on the wrong side with plain stitches, taking
up one loop on the right and one on the left, alternately.

When you have joined the stripes, make the outer border, which consists
of 7 straight rows and a scalloped lace edging.

1st row--in blue: 3 chain and 1 plain on each picot, 1 plain, and so on,
down the long sides of the stripes = along the short sides, the side of
the chain stitches or that of the previous row: 1 plain, 3 chain, miss
2, 1 plain.

2nd row--in white or unbleached: 1 cluster stitch, fig. 426, on each
picot formed by the 3 chain stitches of the 1st row; on the corner
picots, you must make 3 cluster stitches.

3rd, 4th, 5th rows--in blue: similar to the first. Increase at the
corners by making: 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 plain on the same stitch.

6th row--in white or unbleached: similar to the 2nd row.

7th row--in blue: 1 treble on each of the stitches of the previous row.

Lace edging.--The scallops extend over 22 stitches of the previous row
and on that account it is better to make the corners first, to count the
stitches both ways so as to distribute the stitches that are left over,
between the scallops.

Corner scallop.--Fasten on the thread to the left of the second of the
stitches that were added to make the turn, make 6 chain, 1 single on the
4th treble to the right = 1 single on the next treble = turn the work =
* 2 chain, 1 treble on the 6th chain, repeat 7 times from *, in all
therefore 8 trebles = after the 8th treble: 2 chain, miss 1 treble, 1
single on the 2 next trebles = turn the work = 2 chain, 1 cluster stitch
between each treble, in all 9 cluster stitches, then 2 chain, miss 2
trebles, 1 single stitch on the next 2 trebles = turn the work = 2
chain, 1 cluster stitch over the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th pairs of chain
stitches in the preceding row, and 2 cluster stitches and 2 chain over
the 5th, 6th and 7th chain stitches; over the other chain stitches
again: 1 cluster stitch; then 2 chain, miss 2 trebles, join to the 3rd
treble = fasten off.

For the scallops on the right side, divide the stitches between the
corner scallops into equal portions. Supposing that they are divisible
by 22, count 9 stitches to the right, fasten on the thread at the 9th; *
7 chain, miss 2 trebles of the row beneath, 1 plain on the 3rd, 1 single
stitch on the next = turn the work = 2 chain, 1 treble on the 7 chain,
repeat 5 times from * and finish with 2 chain, 1 single on the 2nd lower
treble, 1 single on the next treble = turn the work = 2 chain and 1
cluster stitch between each treble of the preceding row, 2 cluster
stitches between the 3rd and 2nd trebles = after the 8th stitch: 2
chain, miss 1 treble, 1 single on each of the 2 next stitches = repeat 3
times over 2 chain stitches of the previous row: 2 chain, 1 cluster
stitch = on the 4th, 5th and 6th chain stitches: 2 cluster and 2 chain;
on the 3 last chain the same stitches as on the 3 first = then 1 single
over each of the next 18 and repeat from *.

The final row consists of open picots, formed of 5 chain stitches and 1
plain, between each cluster stitch; after the last of these stitches and
in the indent of the scallops on the straight line, only 2 chain
stitches and 1 plain on the 3rd stitch.

[Illustration: FIG. 478. PATTERN IN SQUARES FOR COUNTERPANES.

MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 1 to 5, or Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12.

COLOURS: Gris-Coutil 323 and Brun-Caroubier 303 or Bleu-cendre 448 and
Rouge-Cornouille 449, Vert-Mousse 470 and Bleu d'Azur 3325.[A]]

PATTERN IN SQUARES FOR COUNTERPANES (fig. 478).--This pattern may be
worked in the same stitch as the previous one, either in Tunisian
crochet or in any other of the stitches already described.

Make a foundation chain of 18 stitches on which you work 10 rows to and
fro in the dark colour. The 11th and following rows up to the 21st are
worked in the light colour, then take up the dark colour again. Each
stripe should be 3 squares long.

The 2nd stripe is begun in the light colour, and the stitches, made at
the beginning of each row, are joined to those of the first stripe, as
the stitches of the 3rd are to those of the 2nd and so on.

When you have made sufficient big squares, each consisting of 9 small
ones, border them with seven rows of plain stitches, worked to and fro.

The 4 squares that form the corners are only to be bordered in this
manner on two sides; the squares along the straight edges, on 3 sides,
and only those that are intended for the centre of the counterpane, on
all 4 sides. The separate parts are then either sewn or crocheted
together on the wrong side. The dark squares are ornamented with small
stars worked in the light colour, the light ones with scallops in the
dark colour.

For the small stars--4 chain, close the ring; 2 plain on each stitch of
the chain; 8 plain in all = after the 8th stitch: 8 chain, 1 plain on
the 1st plain of the 8 plain stitches. Repeat the 8 chain 7 times and
fasten off, then sew the star on in the centre of the dark square,
taking care to spread out the little points formed of chain stitches at
regular distances from each other. The scallops are worked from left to
right; fasten the thread on at the point where 4 squares touch, then
make a chain of 18 stitches and secure it at the opposite point. On the
chain stitches: 6 plain, 1 picot, 7 plain, 1 picot, 7 plain, 1 picot, 6
plain = fasten off.

Repeat the same scallop over the second half of the square; when you
come to the 2nd picot of the first scallop join the two picots. When
both scallops are completed, fasten them on to the foundation by a few
stitches on the wrong side.

The outside border of the counterpane is made separately, and is worked
inwards from without and from left to right.

1st row--begin with the dark colour and make * 10 chain stitches, drop
the loop, put the needle into the 1st of the 10 chain, take up the loop
and draw it through the stitch; 2 chain and on the 10 stitches: 6
trebles quite close together. Repeat from * and go on repeating the
sequence until the lace is long enough to trim the counterpane
handsomely.

2nd row--in the light colour and similar to the 1st = only that in
joining the chain stitches together, you make the single stitch on the
chain stitches of the 1st row.

3rd row--in the dark colour and similar to the 2nd.

4th, 5th and 6th rows--in the light colour and from right to left: 7
chain, 2 plain on each loop of chain stitches of the previous row.

7th row--in the light colour and from left to right: * 2 plain on the
treble of the lace, 11 chain, 2 plain on the next loop of chain stitches
= these 2 stitches are made on the wrong side of the work = drop the
loop, turn the work to the right, 3 plain on the last 3 chain, 8 chain
**, and repeat always from * to **.

One row of plain made on each chain stitch and a 2nd row of trebles on
the plain stitches completes the lace edging, which is afterwards sewn
on to the counterpane.

COUNTERPANE WITH FRINGED BORDER (fig. 479).--This pattern requires
three colours; we suggest the following as making a very effective
combination: Rouge-Turc 321, Bleu-Indigo 311 and white.

The stripes, one red, the other blue, may be worked in any stitch. They
are edged with 8 plain stitches of 3 different lengths worked in red. *
The first stitch passes only under the loops of the stitches; the 2nd
over 2 stitches; the 3rd over 1, the 4th inwards, over 3. Repeat from *.

These stitches must be worked parallel to each other along the two edges
that are to be joined together.

The stripes are fastened together on the wrong side by single or plain
stitches.

The outside edge consists of 15 rows: 1st row--in red: 1 row of plain
stitches on the right side of the work.

2nd row--in red, and on the wrong side of the work: plain stitches.

3rd and 4th rows--in red, and on the right side of the work: plain
stitches.

5th row--in dark blue and on the right side: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1
plain of the row beneath, 1 treble and so on.

6th row--in white, and similar to the 5th.

7th row--in blue, and similar to the 5th.

8th row--in red: 1 plain on each stitch of the preceding row.

[Illustration: FIG. 479. COUNTERPANE WITH FRINGED BORDER. MATERIALS:
Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 10, or Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6
to 14. COLOURS: White, Gris-Tilleul 331 and Rouge-Cornouille 449.[A]]

9th row--in red and on the wrong side: 1 plain on each stitch of the
preceding row.

10th and 11th rows--in red: and both on the right side, 2 rows of plain
stitches.

12th row--in white: 5 chain, miss 3, 1 plain on the 4th stitch.

13th row--in dark blue and similar to the 12th.

14th row--in white: * 1 plain on the 5th stitch of the blue row; 10
chain, drop the loop, lay the chain stitches from left to right, put the
needle into the 3rd chain stitch, counting from the beginning, take up
the loop and draw it through the 3rd chain stitch, 2 chain and repeat
from *.

15th row--in white: 1 plain on the picot formed by the chain stitches; 5
chain, 1 plain.

Into this last row you draw clusters of lengths of red cotton to form
the fringe, and knot them together with blue, or if you prefer it, you
may finish off the coverlet with a hairpin fringe.

COUNTERPANE COMPOSED OF SQUARES AND OLIVE SHAPED FIGURES (fig.
480).--There are many who shrink from undertaking a large piece of work
because it becomes inconvenient to handle and carry about. The
counterpane here represented has the advantage of being made up of a
number of quite little pieces, which are worked separately and joined
together afterwards.

Two colours, which can be clearly distinguished from each other in the
engraving, should be chosen from among the various combinations
suggested; one of them should be very light, say, cream or white for the
olive shaped figures and squares, and the other of some soft shade only
darker, for the connecting rows and the knotted fringe, described in the
chapter on Macrame.

The olive shaped figures begin with 9 chain stitches, on which you make
8 plain stitches and on the 9th: 3 plain for the corner.

On the second side of the chain: 8 plain and 3 besides on the corner
stitch, and so on for 3 rows; in the last row there should be 28
stitches.

These 3 rows are to be considered as one only.

2nd row--3 chain, 1 treble on the plain stitch that follows * 1 chain, 1
treble and repeat 11 times from *; 1 chain, 3 trebles with 1 chain
between them on the corner stitch, ** 1 chain, 1 treble, repeat 12 times
from **.

On the last stitch at the corner, again 3 trebles with 1 chain; close
the round with 1 single stitch.

3rd row--1 chain, 1 single on the chain stitch that follows the 1st
treble of the last row; 3 chain, 1 double treble between the lower
trebles, 1 chain and so on, until you have 35 trebles, counting the two
sets of 3 trebles at the corner.

4th row--here you can change the colour: 1 plain on each of the stitches
of the last row; 3 plain at the corners.

5th row--similar to the 4th.

[Illustration: FIG. 480. COUNTERPANE COMPOSED OF SQUARES AND OLIVE
SHAPED FIGURES. MATERIALS: Coton pour crochet D.M.C Nos. 6 to 10, or
Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 10. COLOURS: White and Rouge-Turc 321,
or Ecru and Rouge-Cerise 3318, Gris-Coutil 323 and Bleu-Gentiane
478.[A]]

6th row--2 plain, 1 cluster of 2 double trebles on the same stitch of
the 4th row as the 5th stitch of the last row is on; miss 1 plain.

Continue in this manner along the whole row, taking care that the 9th
and 22nd cluster come just at the corner.

7th and 8th rows--these two last rows should be worked in the same
colour as the inside of the figure.

Be careful always to make the increase at the point; a 9th row in the
dark colour may further be added, to connect the figures, by passing the
thread from the wrong side to the right, between the 13 last stitches of
two of the points of the figures. The space between these olive shaped
figures is filled by a pointed square of chain stitches.

In the 1st and following rows you miss 5 stitches at the point where the
figures meet, and continue to decrease in this manner until the space is
filled up. The fringe is made in the dark colour, either directly on to
the plain crochet, or after a few rows of open-work.

SQUARES FOR CHAIR-BACKS (fig. 481).--This is a design for cut-work,
out of an old collection by Sibmacher, which we have adapted to crochet.
It will be found most effective, worked in any of the given materials;
we have worked it with admirable result, both in Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
No. 15 and Fil a dentelle D.M.C No. 150.

1st row--4 chain, close the ring.

2nd row--1 chain, 2 plain on each chain, 8 in all; draw the loop of the
last stitch through the 1st chain.

3rd row--6 chain, 1 treble *, 3 chain, 1 treble, repeat 6 times from *.
In all, with the 3 chain, 8 trebles.

4th row--4 plain, over each treble of 3 chain.

5th row--6 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the plain stitches beneath, * 3
chain, 1 treble, over the treble beneath, 3 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd
stitch of the row beneath. Repeat 6 times from *, then add 3 chain, 1
plain on the 3rd of the 6 chain.

6th row--7 chain, 1 plain over the treble of the last row; repeat the
same series 7 times.

7th row--3 chain, 1 treble over the treble beneath; 1 treble on each
chain stitch, 2 trebles on each plain stitch of the row beneath; in all,
72 trebles, including the 3 chain.

8th row--* 8 chain, 1 plain between the 2 trebles that were added,
therefore between the 8th and the 9th = turn the work = make 12 plain
on the wrong side = turn the work back to the right side = take up 1
loop of each of the 12 stitches for the Tunisian stitch that is made on
10 rows, and decreasing by one stitch in each row, alternately on the
right and left = draw up the 3 last loops together and make, descending
on the right side: 1 single stitch on each row of the pyramid you have
just made, finish with 1 plain on the stitch that follows the 8 chain.
Repeat 7 times from *.

[Illustration: FIG. 481. SQUARES FOR CHAIR-BACKS. MATERIALS: Fil
d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 100, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 20 to 50, or
Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70 in white or ecru.[A]]

9th row--all along the pyramid: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 1 picot, 3
plain, 1 picot, 2 plain, 2 plain at the point. Repeat the same number
of stitches on the 2nd side, and down the sides of all the pyramids =
after the 9th row, fasten off.

10th row--fasten on the thread at a stitch at the point of a pyramid, *
7 chain, 5 overs, join the loop to the 2nd picot on the side of the
pyramid where you are working, draw the needle back through 2 overs,
make 2 overs more, and put the needle into the middle picot opposite and
draw the needle twice through 2 loops, thirdly through 3 and each time
after that, through 2 loops = 6 chain, 1 double treble, join to the 3rd
over, 7 chain, 1 plain = on the next pyramid 7 chain, 1 septuple treble,
join it to the next middle picot = draw the needle thrice through 2
loops, 1 triple treble to join to the middle picot opposite, draw the
needle back through the loops, and at the 4th over, through 3 loops, and
each time after that, through 2 loops, 7 chain, 1 quadruple treble, join
it to the 4th over, 7 chain, 1 triple treble, 7 chain, 1 plain on the
next pyramid. Repeat 3 times from *.

11th row--1 chain, 1 plain on each of the stitches of the previous row
and 2 plain on those forming the corner; fasten off.

12th row--1 single on the first plain, 5 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd
plain, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd plain and so on to the corner and
until you have 14 trebles = on the corner stitch: 2 chain and 1 treble
more; then proceed as you did on the first side. There should be 18
trebles and 19 times 2 chain between the corner trebles; all four sides
should be alike.

13th row--1 plain on each stitch of the last row, not counting the 3
which are to be made at the corner.

14th row--14 single over the preceding stitches *, 1 chain, 24 plain;
miss 4 plain of the last row, not counting the 2 increased stitches
which must be left empty = after the 24th stitch turn the work, miss 2,
21 plain, passing the needle under the 2 loops of the row beneath = turn
the work = 1 chain, 20 plain = turn the work = 19 plain = continue to
decrease in the same proportion, until you have 3 stitches left and
fasten off. In all the intakes miss the last stitch but one, coming
back, and the 1st going, and always begin on the right side with 1
chain.

For the second half of these triangular figures which are worked from
right to left, fasten on the thread to the 5th stitch after the increase
and make 24 plain = 7 plain should remain between the two triangular
figures formed of plain stitches = turn the work = 21 plain, miss the 2
last stitches, 1 plain on the stitch the thread is fastened to = turn
the work = miss 1 stitch, 19 plain, 5 overs, put the needle through the
4th of the 7 stitches between, bring it back twice, each time through 2
loops, make 2 overs more, put the needle through the last stitch of the
3rd row opposite, bring it back twice through 2 loops, then once through
3 loops and twice through 2 loops = turn the work = 18 plain and so on,
until you have made 10 transverse trebles = fasten off, then repeat the
same series of rows on the other sides.

15th row--do not cut off the thread on the 4th side but work backwards:
3 single over the chain, 5 chain * 1 treble on the stitch whence the 5
chain proceeded, 2 chain, 1 treble on the last plain of the first half
of the close parts of the pattern; 2 chain, 1 treble in the middle of
the first part of the 10th transverse treble; 2 chain, 1 treble on the
second half of the preceding treble, 2 chain, 1 treble on the 1st plain
of the second half of the close parts; 2 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd and
last upper stitch of the close part; 2 chain, 1 treble on the same
stitch as the last treble. Then along the edge, 10 trebles, joined by 2
chain, one of which trebles should always be on a row of plain stitches
= after the 10th treble: 3 chain, 1 plain on the 5th plain of the 13th
row, 3 chain, again 11 trebles connected by 2 chain = after the 11
trebles: 2 chain ** and repeat 3 times from * to **.

16th row--on every 2 chain stitches: 3 plain.

17th row--7 chain, 1 plain on the 6th plain of the last row; repeat 7
times = for the 9th and 10th scallops only: * 5 chain. The plain stitch
that follows the 9th scallop should come exactly over the corner stitch
of the 13th row = after the 10th scallop: 1 plain; then 13 scallops with
7 chain, 1 plain on the 6th 5 stitch of the row beneath. Repeat twice
from * = after the 4th scallop 2 smaller scallops, and up to the end of
the row, 5 scallops more of 7 chain each.

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