United States Department of the Interior - "The Nation's River"

Various - "Punch, or the London Charivari, Volume 104, January 28, 1893"

Elizabeth Davis Leavitt - "The Grasshopper Stories"

Marcel Proust - "A L'Ombre Des Jeunes Filles en Fleur, Volume 1"

Annual Bibliography of Commonwealth Literature 2007
This paper argues that discourses of love in Ghanaian market literature for youth offer a view into complex negotiations of agency and empowerment. Drawing on Deborah Durham's notion of youth as "social `shifters'" and Francis Nyamnjoh's conception of the "interconnectedness" of agency, I take Ghanaian market literature as one specific case of how African literature for youth foregrounds questions of continuity and change as African societies enter into increasingly complex global relations. In this literature for youth, received notions of love, often constructed out of impressions from American pop and hip hop music, carry new notions of agency that compete with existing "domesticated" forms. Authors like Ike Tandoh and Evelyn Tay employ discourses of love to offer youth alternative avenues for empowerment in a context of socio-economic disenfranchizement. In a creative process of "straddling", this writing both reveals and reproduces the contradictions that obtain in youth configurations of agency.

Encyclopedia of Needlework

T >> Therese de Dillmont >> Encyclopedia of Needlework




Proceed in this manner until you have 6 or 8 dark stitches, in all and
then begin to decrease in every row by one, until there is at last only
one dark stitch remaining.

These stars are used in the making of purses, cap-crowns and mats for
lamps, etc.

[Illustration: FIG. 423. COLOURED STAR WORKED INTO A LIGHT GROUND.]

TUNISIAN CROCHET.--Tunisian crochet is also called crochet-knitting
because, you have to cast on all the first row of stitches, as in
knitting.

MATERIALS--Every kind of cotton, as well as wool and silk, can be used
for Tunisian crochet: the stitches look equally well in all these
materials, but for things that require frequent washing or cleaning, a
good washing material should be selected, such as Coton a tricoter D.M.C
and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A], both strong and suitable in all ways.

As we have already said, Tunisian crochet requires to be done with a
long straight needle, with a knob at one end and it can only be worked
on the right side.

[Illustration: FIG. 444. PLAIN TUNISIAN CROCHET.]

PLAIN TUNISIAN CROCHET (fig. 444).--After making a foundation chain of
the required length, begin the first, or loop row as it is called. Put
the needle into the 2nd chain stitch, draw a loop through and so on,
until you have taken up all the chain stitches on the needle. After
having made the last stitch of the loop row, make 1 chain stitch and
then pass to the second row that completes the stitch. Turn the thread
round the needle, draw it through two loops, turn the thread round
again, and again draw it through two loops, and so on to the end.

[Illustration: FIG. 445. STRAIGHT PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH.]

STRAIGHT PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH (fig. 445).--Worked thus: miss the
first loop in the 1st row, take up the second, and come back to the
first, so that the 2 loops are crossed. Work the second row in the same
manner as the second row of the preceding figure.

[Illustration: FIG. 446. SLANTING PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH.]

DIAGONAL PLAITED TUNISIAN STITCH (fig. 446).--Worked like the
preceding, taking up first the second loop and then the first: the
second row also, in the same way as before. In the third row, take up
the first stitch, and draw the third through the second, so as to
produce diagonal lines across the surface of the work.

OPEN TUNISIAN STITCH.--This is an easy kind of Tunisian crochet. The
first row is worked as in fig. 444. In the row of plain stitches, you
alternately join 2 and 3, or 3 and 4 loops of the preceding row
together, and replace them by as many chain stitches.

DECREASING AND INCREASING IN TUNISIAN CROCHET (fig. 447). Our
illustration shows how to decrease on both sides and by that means form
scallops.

[Illustration: FIG. 447. DECREASING IN TUNISIAN CROCHET.]

You miss a stitch alternately on the right and left. On the right you
crochet the first two stitches together, and at the end of the row, the
last two, and so on, to the end. You increase in the same order, first
on the right and then on the left.

HAIRPIN CROCHET (figs. 448, 449, 450).--So called because it is worked
on a kind of large steel hairpin or fork with two or more prongs. Wooden
and nickel varieties of this implement, which are patented by Mme
Besson, of Paris, are also used.

Very pretty laces, fringes, gimp headings and the like can be made in
this kind of crochet work. It is often used in combination with ordinary
crochet and plain and scalloped braids and gimps, or as a heading for
fringes made of tufts and pendant balls. There are a great many stitches
which can be worked in hairpin-crochet. We shall only describe those
here that will best teach our readers how the work is done.

MATERIALS.--For washing laces, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C is the best; for
furniture fringes, the lower numbers of Coton a tricoter D.M.C, and for
producing the appearance of filoselle, the lower numbers of Coton a
repriser D.M.C are to be taken.

[Illustration: FIG. 448. STEEL HAIRPIN FOR CROCHET.]

[Illustration: FIG. 449. WOODEN FORK FOR CROCHET.]

[Illustration: FIG. 450. FORK WITH SEVERAL PRONGS FOR CROCHET.]

STITCHES.--Begin by a chain stitch, made with an ordinary crochet
needle, take the needle out of the loop, and insert the left prong of
the fork upwards from below, holding the fork between the thumb and
finger of the left hand. The thread should always be in front. Then put
the thread over the right prong and the needle into the loop on the left
prong, take up the thread, draw it through the loop, put the thread over
the needle and draw it through the loop that is on the needle, twist the
loop round the left prong, turn the needle round to the right (the
thread will now be wound round the right prong); put the needle into the
loop on the left prong, throw the thread over the needle, draw it
through, tighten the loops and so on.

These stitches may be doubled, or you may make several trebles on each
loop, or arrange the plain stitches in different ways.

[Illustration: FIG. 451. HAIRPIN INSERTION.

MATERIALS: Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 20 or 30, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 4 to 15, white or ecru.[A]]

HAIRPIN INSERTION (fig. 451).--Begin by making stripes with the fork,
covering each thread with two plain stitches. Then join the stripes
together by the loops, drawing the left loop over the right one and the
right one over the left. When you come to the end of the stripes fasten
off the last loops by a few stitches. To strengthen the edges, join two
loops together by 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 plain and so on.

[Illustration: FIG. 452. HAIRPIN LACE

MATERIALS--For the hairpin work: Fil a pointer D.M.C Nos. 20 to 30, or
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, white or ecru. For the edge. Coton
a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 16 to 30.

COLOURS: Rouge-Cardinal 347, or Jaune-Rouille 364, or Brun-Marron
406.[A]]

HAIRPIN LACE (fig. 452).--When, by making two half trebles in each
loop, you have got the necessary length of hairpin crochet, join the
loops two and two, by means of a coloured thread which makes a good
contrast with the thread of which the hairpin crochet is made. Work 1
plain stitch joining 2 loops on the right, 2 chain, 1 plain joining the
2 loops on the left; then 2 chain and come back to the right, and so on,
until you have taken up all the loops. This forms the zig-zag in the
middle.

1st row--join 3 loops by: 1 plain, 5 chain.

2nd row--on the 5 chain stitches: 1 plain, 1 half-treble, 3 trebles, 1
picot, made with 5 chain (for the chain picots, see p. 237), 1
half-treble, 1 plain. The footing of this lace is made like the one in
fig. 451.

[Illustration: FIG. 453. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TASSELS.]

HAIRPIN FRINGES (figs. 453, 454, 455, 456).--Fig. 453 is made with a
fork composed of one branch and 3 or 4 rulers, round which the thread is
wound in succession, so as to form loops of different lengths. You may
use for this, either a single very coarse thread, or else several fine
ones, used together as one.

The heading of the fringe is plain, and heavy tassels are fastened into
the loops. The tassels are made as follows: take a thick skein of the
same thread the fringe is made of, pass it through the loop, leaving
just the length required for the tassel, at one end, thread a needle
with the same thread and twist it round the skein, the right distance
from the top to form the head of the tassel and then cut the ends even,
at the bottom. As the loops are of different lengths, the tassels will
hang in steps and the fuller and heavier they are, the handsomer the
fringe will be.

[Illustration: FIG. 454. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TASSELS.

MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 16.[A]

COLOURS: Ecru and Jaune-Rouille 363, 368, or Gris-Tilleul 331 and
Rouge-Cornouille 449 and 450, or three other shades.[A]]

Fig. 454 represents another pattern of fringe, the first part of which
is made with the same fork as the preceding one. Instead however of
winding the thread round the several prongs in succession, you pass it
alternately round the two first and the fourth, thus making loops of two
lengths only. Tassels of a length, suited to the purpose the fringe is
intended for, depend from these loops and may be varied in the second
row by balls made to issue from the middle, or by long meshes, which are
made over the whole width of the fork and affixed to the loops.

Figs. 455 and 456 represent two pretty patterns of fringes made of ecru
cotton with a strong twist. These are very suitable for washing
articles, as the cotton balls wash perfectly.

[Illustration: FIG. 455. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH ONE LINE OF BALLS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 456. HAIRPIN FRINGE WITH TWO LINES OF BALLS, ONE
ABOVE THE OTHER.

MATERIALS--For the crochet-work: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, or
Fil a pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30. For the balls: Coton a repriser D.M.C
Nos. 8 to 16.]

The loops in fig. 455 are all of one length and a ball hangs from every
third. In the last chapter but one, a minute description is given of the
way in which these balls are made. The heading of the loops is formed by
a row of chain stitches, varying in number from four to six, according
to the size of the cotton. The edge is ornamented with little picots.
The fringe, in fig. 456, consists of three long and three short loops
alternately, which causes, the balls that are made to depend from them,
to form two parallel lines.

If you join the loops of the heading together, three and three, you will
have to make enough chain stitches to cover the space that is to be
filled.

The picots are made with 6 chain stitches, you put the needle back into
the fifth stitch after closing the picot, make 1 chain, 2 plain, in the
preceding row, 1 picot and so on.

FRINGE MADE WITH LACET OR BRAID (fig. 457).--This is an easy fringe to
make and a very effective trimming for table-cloths, curtains etc.,
which are embroidered on coarse stuffs.

Begin with a foundation chain, in coarse ecru twist, the light stitch
in the middle of the heading of the fringe being also made of the same
material.

In the next row, you use the twist and the braid together, as
follows--with the twist = 1 chain stitch, put the needle into the first
stitch of the foundation chain, take up the braid, draw it through, turn
the twist round the needle, draw it through the braid and the chain
stitch. To make the braid loops longer, they may be made over a wooden
ruler. To the two rows of braid stitches, represented in the pattern,
you may add as many other rows as you please. On the fringed side make:
4 plain, 3 chain, draw out one very long loop and fasten into it a
cluster of lengths of braid from 10 to 12 c/m. long, and draw the loop
tightly round it to secure the tassel; 3 plain on the chain stitches.
Repeat from *.

[Illustration: FIG. 457. FRINGE MADE WITH LACET OR SOUTACHE (BRAID).

MATERIALS: Lacet D.M.C No. 4 or Soutache D.M.C NO. 21/2 in red. Cordonnet
6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10. Fil a pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, ecru.[A]]

[Illustration: FIG. 458. LACE MADE ON POINT LACE BRAID.

MATERIALS: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 50, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
No. 80, white[A] and Point Lace braid.]

LACE MADE ON POINT LACE BRAID (fig. 458).--For the rounds: 1 plain on
the braid, 10 chain, then coming back, 1 single on the 4th chain.

In this first round you make: 1 chain, 1 half-treble, 12 trebles *, 1
half-treble, 1 chain, 1 single on the 4th chain; 3 chain, 1 single on
the braid, far enough from the 1st chain for the rounds not to overlap
each other. Then 10 chain, 1 single on the 4th chain, 1 single, 1
half-treble, 4 trebles, join to the first round between the 8th and 9th
trebles, 8 trebles and repeat from *. For the footing: 1 treble, 1
chain, miss a few threads of the edge of the braid, 1 treble.

[Illustration: FIG. 459. CROCHET GUIPURE LACE.

MATERIALS: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 70 to 90. Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos.
80 to 120, or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 40 to 70.]

CROCHET GUIPURE LACE (fig. 459).--This charming little lace makes a
very good substitute for real guipure. It can be made on a row of
trebles, just as well as on point lace braid, or on a mignardise, after
you have raised the picots of it by single and chain stitches.

6 plain *, 9 chain, leave an interval equalling in length 6 bars of the
point lace braid used in our pattern; in the braid: 6 plain stitches,
very close together, 8 chain, 1 single on the 7th of the 9 chain, 10
chain, 1 single on the 3d of the 9 chain, 8 chain, 1 plain close to the
first of the first 6 plain.

1st scallop--7 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain; on the 5th chain:
6 plain; on the 8th chain: 3 plain.

2nd scallop--on the 10 chain: 7 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain =
on the 5 chain: 6 plain = on the 10 chain, 5 plain, 5 chain, join to the
4th chain, 6 plain, 5 chain, join to the 4th chain, 6 chain, 1 plain on
the 10th chain.

3rd scallop--like the first, then repeat from *.

[Illustration: FIG. 460. LACE MADE ON POINT LACE BRAID.

MATERIALS: The same as for 458.]

LACE MADE ON POINT LACE BRAID (fig. 460).--On the braid, work a row of
trebles, 1 or 2 chain stitches apart, according to the size of the braid
and on this row of trebles, make two other rows as follows:

1st row--5 chain, 1 treble on the treble of the preceding row, 5 chain,
1 treble, on the same stitch to which the first treble is joined, 5
chain, miss 3 trebles, 1 treble on the 4th treble of the row beneath.

2nd row--1 plain on the 3rd of the 5 first chain, 3 plain, 1 treble on
the 3rd of the chain stitches between the two trebles of the first row
that come close together; 3 chain, 1 treble on the same stitch, 3
chain, 1 treble on the same stitch, 3 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd of the
next 5 chain.

[Illustration: FIG. 461. CROCHET LACE.

MATERIALS: Lacet superfin D.M.C No. 14 and Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to
70.[A]]

CROCHET LACE (fig. 461).--1st row--3 plain close together, in the
braid; * 13 chain, join to the 1st plain. On each of the first 6 chain;
1 plain; = on the 7th chain: 3 plain, then on the other chain stitches:
6 plain. In the braid: 7 plain and repeat from *.

2nd row--* miss 2 plain of the first row, 5 plain to reach the 2nd
stitch added in the first row, 4 plain on the 2nd added stitch, 4 plain
on the next stitches. Repeat from *.

For an insertion, drop the thread after the 2nd of the 4 stitches that
are to be made at the point, then put the needle into the stitch of the
finished stripe, take up the thread again, draw it through the stitch
and proceed to the second side of the scallop.

[Illustration: FIG. 462. CROCHET LACE WITH MIGNARDISE.

MATERIALS--According to the mignardise used. Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30
to 70, or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70.[A]]

CROCHET LACE WITH MIGNARDISE (fig. 462).--This and all the patterns
that follow, up to fig. 473, make very useful trimmings for all kinds of
underclothing. Begin by raising the picots on both sides of the
mignardise by: 1 plain stitch and 1 chain.

The rows of crochet work between, consist of: 1 treble on 1 chain, 4
chain, miss 2 picots of the mignardise, 1 treble between the 3rd and 4th
picot.

Work the edge in two rows.

1st row--1 treble between 2 picots, 3 chain, miss 2 picots, 1 treble.

2nd row--1 treble on 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 3 trebles, 7
chain, turn back and join to the 1st of the 3 trebles, 2 chain, join
them to the 2nd treble, 2 trebles on the 7 chain; keep the last loops of
the last treble on the needle and join them to those of the next treble.

[Illustration: FIG. 463. LACE WITH TWO ROWS OF LEAVES.

MATERIALS: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 20 to 100, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 25 to 80 or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 100.]

LACE WITH TWO ROWS OF LEAVES (fig. 463).--This is one of the
pleasantest crochet patterns to work that we know. The leaves are made
separately and fastened into a foundation with thread, at least two
numbers finer than that of which the leaves are made.

Leaf with 5 petals: 8 chain, make a ring = 2 plain on the ring = 1st
petal * 11 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble on the 8th chain, 1 chain,
miss the 7th chain, 1 treble on the 6th chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the
4th chain, 1 chain, 1 treble on the 3rd chain, 2 chain, 2 plain on the
ring.

2nd petal: 15 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble *, 1 chain, miss 1
chain, 1 treble *. Repeat 4 times from * to *; add: 1 chain, 2 trebles
on the ring.

3rd petal: 21 chain, miss 3 chain, 1 half-treble *, 1 chain, miss 1, 1
treble *. Repeat 7 times from * to *; add: 1 chain, miss 1, 2 trebles in
the ring.

The 4th petal to be worked like the 3rd; the 5th like the 1st.

When the 5 petals are finished, make 2 plain stitches on the ring; then
on the chain stitches of the 1st petal: 2 plain, 7 trebles, 2 trebles on
the 10th stitch; then descending again: 7 trebles, 2 plain and 3 single
on the 3 plain stitches of the ring.

On the 2nd petal work: 3 plain, 10 trebles, 2 trebles on the 14th chain,
10 trebles, 3 plain, 2 single, on the 2 trebles on the ring.

3rd petal: 2 single, 3 plain, 14 trebles, 2 trebles on the 20th chain,
14 trebles, 3 plain, a single.

The 4th petal is worked like the 2nd; the 5th like the 1st, to be
followed by 1 single on the 1st of the 3 chain stitches of the ring.

For the stalk: 14 chain; miss 1, 9 plain on the 9 chain; 6 chain, miss
1, 5 plain on the 5 chain, 4 plain on the chain stitches that are still
disengaged, 2 single on the ring and then fasten the thread off with a
few stitches.

When you have enough leaves, join them together by a row of picots,
working from left to right as follows: * take the second petal on the
right side of a leaf, put the thread into the 12th stitch; make 2 plain,
1 picot, 1 plain on the stitch on which the picot was made = in all the
leaves, the 3rd plain before the picot and the first after, meet in the
same stitch beneath = 2 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain, 2 chain = on the 8th
stitch of the 3rd petal: 1 plain, 2 plain more on the next stitches **,
1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 6 times from ** and finish with 2 chain.

On the 7th stitch of the 4th petal: 1 plain, 2 plain on the next
stitches ***, 1 picot, 3 plain. Repeat 4 times from ***.

On the 5th stitch of the 5th petal: 1 plain, and on the 4 next, 4 plain
****. Repeat from * to ** round each leaf, then instead of a picot, make
4 chain, join between the 1st and 2nd picot, 4 chain, close the picot.
From this point the preceding series of stitches takes the place of the
picot that immediately follows the sign **; proceed to ****.

Foundation for the footing of the lace, with a single row of
leaves.--When all the leaves are joined together, take the finer number
of cotton and fasten your thread to the last stitch of the small stalk;
then make: * 2 chain, 1 plain on the 9th stitch of the 5th petal; 6
chain, miss 2, 1 plain on the 3rd stitch; 6 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd
stitch, 1 chain, 1 plain on the 5th stitch of the 4th petal; 6 chain, 1
plain on the 3rd chain; 2 chain, 1 plain on the 4th stitch (counting
from the bottom) of the 5th petal of the next leaf; 3 chain, 1 single on
the last stitch of the long stalk; 3 chain, join to the 3rd chain
stitch, 3 chain, draw the thread again in coming back through the 3rd of
the second set of 6 chain stitches in the 1st petal; 1 single; turning
back and from left to right: 1 single on the plain stitch between the
chain stitches, 6 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd of the last 3 chain, 6
chain, 1 plain on the stalk, 6 chain, 1 plain on the 3rd stitch of the
stalk; 6 chain, 1 plain on the 4th stitch of the stalk; 7 chain, 1 plain
at the top of the little stalk, then repeat from *. The network in the
next rows, which may be of any width, is composed of: 6 chain stitches
and, 1 plain on the loop of the last row.

For the last row but one of the network, make: 4 chain, 1 plain over
each loop, and complete the lace by a row of plain stitches.

To make the leaves stand out from the foundation, use two shades of
thread, white and ecru, white and Jaune-Rouille 365, or white and
Gris-Cendre 415.

The following is the way to join two rows of leaves together, that have
previously been edged with picots.

Fasten the thread on to the little stalk, * 3 chain, 1 plain on the 8th
stitch of the leaf, 2 chain, join to the middle picot of the 3rd petal
of the top leaf; 2 chain, 3 plain on the 5th petal of the bottom row, 1
picot, 3 plain.

For the 2nd petal of the bottom leaf: 3 plain, 1 picot, 3 plain.

For the 5th petal of the next leaf below: 3 plain, 4 chain, 1 single on
the long stalk, 5 chain, 1 plain on the 2nd picot of the 1st petal of
the preceding leaf, 5 chain, 1 single on the 2nd picot of the 4th petal
of the top leaf, 4 chain, 1 plain on the 4th single of the stalk, 3
chain, 1 single on the 7th picot of the 3rd petal of the top leaf, 3
chain, miss 1 stitch of the stalk, 1 plain on the stalk, 3 chain, 1
plain on the 6th picot of the top leaf, 3 chain, 1 plain on the little
stalk. Repeat from *.

Three and even four rows of leaves may be joined together in this manner
and make a very handsome lace, particularly suitable for church linen.

INSERTION WITH WAVED BRAID (fig. 464).--1 plain stitch at the point of
the braid, 7 chain, 1 single on the 2nd chain. On the next chain
stitches: 1 half-treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble, 1 triple treble, 1
plain on the next point of the braid.

Repeat the same stitches on the second side, only that after the 6th
chain stitch, you draw the thread through the 7th of the 1st finished
row.

Little wheels, set between the crochet pyramids, and described in the
chapters on filet-guipure and Irish lace, complete the insertion.

[Illustration: FIG. 464. INSERTION WITH WAVED BRAID.
MATERIALS.--According to the size of the braid: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos.
20 to 70, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 40 to 70.[A]]

CROCHET LACE, MADE WITH LEAF BRAID (fig. 465).--Introduce the thread
into one of the leaves of the braid and working from right to left, make
for the outer border: * 1 plain, 2 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch,
with 5 twists of the thread, 2 chain, 1 treble near the end of the leaf.
Leave the last 2 loops of the treble on the needle **.

Take 2 leaves of the braid, fold them one upon the other: 1 treble near
the stalk of these folded leaves, tighten the loops of the 2 trebles;
chain ***, 1 picot, 2 chain, 1 plain, 2 chain. Repeat 5 times from ***.

Proceed with 1 picot, 2 chain,--there will be 7 picots round the folded
leaves--1 treble on the folded leaves and repeat from ** to *, therefore
the inverse way, and begin again from *.

For the footing of the lace, 4 rows are required.

1st row--* 1 double treble close to the stalk of the leaf, 5 chain, 1
treble, at the third of the leaf, 1 double treble at the 2nd third of
the leaf, 5 chain, 2 double trebles, one on the right leaf, one on the
left, draw the last loops of the 2 trebles up together and repeat from
*.

2nd row--On each of the little loops formed by the 5 chain of the last
row: 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot in bullion stitch, 7 chain, 1 picot, 3
chain; 1 plain on the next loop and so on.

3rd row--1 plain on the 4th of the 7 chain, 5 chain, 1 plain and so on.

4th row--1 plain on each loop of the last row.

[Illustration: FIG. 465. CROCHET LACE MADE WITH LEAF BRAID. MATERIALS:
Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 50 to 100 or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 50 to
80.[A]]

CROCHET LACE MADE WITH LEAF BRAID (fig. 466).--Begin with the outside
edge:

1st row:--At the end of a leaf: 1 treble, 6 chain, 1 picot in bullion
stitch, 6 chain, 1 treble = at the beginning of a 2nd leaf: 6 chain, 1
picot, 6 chain, 1 treble at the end of the leaf = 7 chain, 1 picot, 7
chain, 1 treble on the 3rd leaf = 6 chain, 1 picot, 6 chain, 1 treble at
the end of the 3rd leaf = 6 chain, 1 treble, 6 chain, 1 treble on the
4th leaf = 1 double treble joined to the 4th and 1st leaf of the next
scallop = 1 treble at the end of the 1st leaf, join and draw the last
loops of these 3 trebles together.

2nd row--over each treble and picot: * 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 picot, 7
chain, 1 picot, 3 chain, 1 plain = repeat 6 times from *.

At the indent and before the last picot: 2 chain, 1 picot, 2 chain = 1
plain before the 1st picot of the next scallop.

3rd row--1 treble, 8 chain, repeat 6 times. In the indent join the 4th
of the 7 chain stitches right and left together by 1 treble.

4th row--15 single on each loop of 8 chain.

Inside junction.--Begin at the edge of the first leaf, fasten on the
thread and make 10 chain and, 1 double treble at the end of the leaf, 1
triple treble, and draw up both together, 5 chain, 2 triple trebles on
the leaves to the right and left = 5 chain, 2 triple trebles, one at the
end and the other at the beginning of the 3rd and 4th leaf = 2 chain, 1
picot in bullion stitch, 2 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the
first trebles, 10 chain, 1 plain on the last stitch of the last trebles;
5 chain, 1 triple treble at the end of the 4th leaf.

[Illustration: FIG. 466. CROCHET LACE MADE WITH LEAF BRAID. MATERIALS:
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 40 to 80 or Fil a dentelle Nos. 50 to
80.[A]]

Going back to the beginning: 5 chain, 1 single on the 10 chain above the
picot = 5 chain, 1 single on the 5th of the first 10 chain = 12 chain, 1
plain on the loop of the last triple treble, 7 chain, 1 picot in bullion
stitch, 6 chain = 1 plain on the stalk between the 2 leaves; 6 chain, 1
picot, 7 chain, 1 triple treble on the leaf, 5 chain, repeat from *.

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