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Annual Bibliography of Commonwealth Literature 2007
This paper argues that discourses of love in Ghanaian market literature for youth offer a view into complex negotiations of agency and empowerment. Drawing on Deborah Durham's notion of youth as "social `shifters'" and Francis Nyamnjoh's conception of the "interconnectedness" of agency, I take Ghanaian market literature as one specific case of how African literature for youth foregrounds questions of continuity and change as African societies enter into increasingly complex global relations. In this literature for youth, received notions of love, often constructed out of impressions from American pop and hip hop music, carry new notions of agency that compete with existing "domesticated" forms. Authors like Ike Tandoh and Evelyn Tay employ discourses of love to offer youth alternative avenues for empowerment in a context of socio-economic disenfranchizement. In a creative process of "straddling", this writing both reveals and reproduces the contradictions that obtain in youth configurations of agency.

Encyclopedia of Needlework

T >> Therese de Dillmont >> Encyclopedia of Needlework

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32



KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 391).--The patterns shown in figs. 391 and 392,
are more particularly useful for comforters, shawls, hoods and the like.
The needles, which may be either of bone or steel must match the cotton
in size; steel needles are the best for any thing finer than No. 16, of
D.M.C Coton a tricoter.

[Illustration: FIG. 391. KNITTING PATTERN.]

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3.

1st row--over, slip 1 stitch on to the right needle, knit the 2 next
stitches, and draw the first stitch over them.

2nd row and 4th row--knit plain.

3rd row--like the first, but note, that the stitch that was the third in
the first row, will be the first here.

Repeat from the beginning.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 392).--Cast on a number of stitches that
divides by 3.

[Illustration: FIG. 392. KNITTING PATTERN.]

1st row--over, knit the 2 first together, draw the 3rd stitch through
the stitch formed by the intake and knit it off plain, then knit the
stitch that was pulled over it.

2nd and 4th row--knit plain.

3rd row--like the first; the third stitch here is the same that was
drawn through the third stitch in the first row.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 393).--Cast on a number of stitches that
divides by 14.

[Illustration: FIG. 393. KNITTING PATTERN.]

1st row--over, knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 3, knit 3 together, purl 3,
knit 2.

2nd row--knit 5, purl 7, knit 2.

3rd row--over, knit 3, over, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3 together, purl 2,
knit 2.

4th row--knit 7, purl 5, knit 2.

5th row--over, knit 5, over, knit 2, purl 1, knit 3 together, purl 1,
knit 2.

6th row--knit 9, purl 3, knit 2.

7th row--over, knit 7, over, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2.

8th row--knit 11, purl 1, knit 1.

Repeat from the beginning but in the reverse order, that is, purling the
knitted stitches and knitting the purled.

KNITTED LACE (fig. 394).--Knitted lace looks best, made of a smooth,
silky thread which shows up the pattern better than any other material.
As a knitted edging makes a very pretty finish to almost any kind of
knitted article, we give a selection of some of the easiest and most
effective patterns that we consider suitable for the purpose.

[Illustration: FIG. 394. KNITTED LACE.

MATERIALS: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 60, Fil a dentelle D.M.C
Nos. 25 to 70.[A]]

Cast on 8 stitches.

1st needle--1 chain, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, knit 2, 2 overs,
knit 2.

2nd needle--knit 3, purl 1, knit 4, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

3rd needle--1 chain, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, knit 6.

4th needle--2 chain, knit 5, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

Repeat from the first needle.

KNITTED LACE (fig. 395).--Cast on 10 stitches.

1st needle--knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 3,
over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

2nd needle--1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2,
purl 1, knit 1.

3rd needle--knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 4,
over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

4th needle--1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 3, purl 1, knit 2,
purl 1, knit 1.

5th needle--knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 5,
over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

6th needle--1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 1, knit 2,
purl 1, knit 1.

7th needle--knit 10, over, knit 2 together, 1 chain.

8th needle--1 chain, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 8.

9th needle--4 chain, 2 overs, knit 2 together, 2 overs, knit 3, over,
knit 2 together, 1 chain.

Repeat from the second needle.

KNITTED LACE (fig. 396).--Cast on 13 stitches.

[Illustration: FIG. 395. KNITTED LACE.

MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, Fil a pointer D.M.C
Nos. 10 to 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.[A]]

1st needle--1 chain, purl 1, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

2nd needle--1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

3rd needle--1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1
chain.

4th needle--1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, knit 1
from behind, 1 chain.

5th needle--1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2
together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

6th needle--1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2
together, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

7th needle--1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2
together, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1 chain.

8th needle--1 chain, knit 8, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2
together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, knit 1 from behind, 1
chain.

9th needle--1 chain, purl 2, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2
together, over, purl 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over, knit 8, 1
chain.

10th needle--8 chain, knit 10, knit 1 from behind, 1 chain.

Repeat from the first needle.

[Illustration: FIG. 396. KNITTED LACE.

MATERIALS: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos.
20 to 80, or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 60.[A]]

KNITTED LACE (fig. 397).--Cast on 11 stitches.

[Illustration: FIG. 397. KNITTED LACE.

MATERIALS: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 70, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos.
25 to 70, Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 80.[A]]

1st needle--1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped
stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, 1
chain.

The 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, 14th, and 16th needle, purled.

3rd needle--1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped
stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, 1 chain.

5th needle--1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped
stitch over, knit 1, 1 chain.

7th needle--1 chain, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 7, over, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped
stitch over, 1 chain.

9th needle--1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over,
slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 3, knit 2 together, over,
knit 2 together, over, knit 2, 1 chain.

11th needle--1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over,
slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over,
knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, 1 chain.

13th needle--1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over,
knit 3 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over,
knit 2, 1 chain.

15th needle--1 chain, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1,
knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, 1 chain.

Repeat from the first needle.

ROSE FOR KNITTING (fig. 398).--Repeat all the directions, 8 ending
with the sign *, 7 times.

Cast on 8 stitches, on to 4 needles, two on each; close the ring.

2nd round--8 times: over, knit 1.

The 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, 15th, 17th, 19th, 21st, 23rd, and
25th round, knit plain.

4th round--over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind *.

6th round--over, knit 4, over, knit 1 from behind *.

8th round--over, knit 7, over, knit 1 from behind *.

10th round--over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2
together, over, knit 1 *.

12th round--over, knit 2 together, over, knit 3 *.

14th round--over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5 *.

16th round--over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 7 *.

18th round--over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 9 *.

20th round--over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 11 *.

22nd round--over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 13 *.

24th round--over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 15 *.

26th round--over, knit 3, over, knit 5, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5 *.

[Illustration: FIG. 398. ROSE FOR KNITTING.

MATERIALS: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C in balls, No. 60 or 70, Fil a dentelle
D.M.C No. 40, 50 or 60.[A]]

27th round--knit 11, purl 1, knit 6 *.

28th round--over, knit 5, over, knit 4, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 4 *.

29th round--knit 12, purl 1, knit 5 *.

30th round--over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch
over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, knit 3, knit 2
together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 3 *.

31st round--knit 13, purl 1, knit 4 *.

32nd round--over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches
over, over, knit 3, over, knit 2, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit
1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 *.

33rd round--knit 14, purl 1, knit 3.

34th round--over, knit 11, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip
1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 *.

35th round--knit 15, purl 1, knit 2.

36th round--over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch
over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull
slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, knit 2
together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over *.

37th round--knit 16, purl 1, knit 1.

38th round--over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches
over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over,
over, knit 3, over, knit 2, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches
over *.

39th, 41st and 43rd round--knit plain.

40th round--over, knit 4, knit 2 together, over, knit 5, over, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 4, over, knit 1.

42nd round--knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit
1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped
stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit
1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 *.

44th round--knit 2, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over,
over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over,
knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3
*.

Finish with three purled rounds.

KNITTED EDGING (fig. 399).--Cast on 43 stitches.

1st needle, make a chain of 2 stitches, over, knit 1 from behind, over,
knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped
stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit
1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, knit
1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2
together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl
1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1 from behind, slip 1, knit 1, pull
slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1
from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

[Illustration: FIG. 399. KNITTED EDGING.

MATERIALS: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 40 to 70 or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos.
25 to 50, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 25 to 60.[A]]

2nd needle--1 chain, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3,
purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 14, purl 1 from
behind, purl 4.

3rd needle--slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull
slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped
stitches over, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1,
knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip
1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from
behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1
chain.

4th needle--slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 4,
purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from
behind, purl 4.

5th needle--slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull
slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit
1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together,
over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit
3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2,
knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from
behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1
chain.

6th needle--slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 16, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

7th needle--slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull
slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip
1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit
2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1,
knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped
stitches over, over, knit 5, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1
from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

8th needle--slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind,
purl 17, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

9th needle--slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull
slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped
stitches over, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit
1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2
together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl
1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch
over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind,
over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

10th needle--slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3,
purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 18, purl 1 from
behind, purl 4.

11th needle--slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull
slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit
1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together,
over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind,
purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 together, purl 1,
slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl
1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1
from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1,
1 chain.

12th needle--slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 4,
purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 19, purl 1 from
behind, purl 4.

13th needle--slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1,
pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over,
slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over,
knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped
stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1, from behind, over, knit
3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2,
knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from
behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1
chain.

14th needle--slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 18, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

15th needle--slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 2, knit 1,
pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull
slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped
stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit
2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over knit 5, over, slip 2, knit
1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2
together, knit 1, 1 chain.

16th needle--like the 8th.

17th needle--slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1,
pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over,
slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull
slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind,
over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped
stitch over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl
1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

18th needle--slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3,
purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 16, purl 1 from
behind, purl 4.

19th needle--slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1,
pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over,
slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over,
knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 2
together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, slip
1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1,
slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1
from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1,
1 chain.

20th needle--like the 4th.

21st needle--slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 2, knit 1,
pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull
slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped
stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit
3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2,
knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from
behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1
chain.

22nd needle--slip 1; knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1
from behind, purl 14, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

23rd needle--slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind,
over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1,
pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1,
knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over,
knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 2,
knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 5, over, knit 1 from
behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1
chain.

24th needle--slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 4, purl 1
from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind,
purl 13, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

Repeat from the first needle.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and
sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.





[Illustration: CROCHET LACE.--CLOSE LEAVES AND BARS WITH PICOTS]




Crochet Work.


Crochet work, so called from the hook, French _croche_ or _croc_, with
which it is done, is not only one of the easiest but in comparison with
the cost and labour, one of the most effective kinds of fancy-work. It
is also one of the most useful, as it can be applied to the domestic
requirements of every-day life, to wearing apparel, house-linen and
upholstery; and we are sure that the patterns contained in this chapter,
which have in addition to their other merits that of novelty, will meet
with a favorable reception.

Hooks, or needles, as they are generally called, made of wood, bone or
tortoise-shell are used for all the heavier kinds of crochet work in
thick wool or cotton, and steel ones for the finer kinds. The Tunisian
crochet is done with a long straight hook, which is made all in one
piece. The points should be well polished inside and not too sharp, the
backs slightly curved, and the handles, whether of bone, steel or wood,
so light as not to tire the hand. Those represented here, we consider
the best, as regards shape. As it is most essential that the needle
should be suited to the cotton in size, we subjoin a comparative table
of the numbers of the D.M.C threads and cottons and of the different
needles.

[Illustration: FIG. 400. CROCHET NEEDLE WITH WOODEN HANDLE.]

[Illustration: FIG. 401. CROCHET NEEDLE WITH STEEL HANDLE.]

[Illustration: FIG. 402. ENGLISH CROCHET NEEDLE WITH WOODEN HANDLE.]

TABLE OF THE APPROXIMATE RELATION OF THE D.M.C THREADS AND COTTONS TO
THE NUMBERS OF THE CROCHET NEEDLES.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Numbers of the | | | | | | | | |
crochet needles | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 16 | 18 |
-------------------+--------+--------+-----+------+------+-----+-----+-------|
Numbers of the | | | | | | | | |
cottons | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. |
-------------------+--------+--------+-----+------+------+-----+-----+-------+
Coton pour crochet | --- | 6 | 8-10| 12-14| 16-20|24-40| --- | --- |
Coton a tricoter | 6 | 8 |10-12| 14-16| 18-25|25-40| 50 | --- |
Fil a pointer | 10 | 15 |20-30| --- | --- | --- | --- | --- |
Cordonnet 6 fils | 1-11/2 | 2-21/2 | 3-4 | 10-15| 20-30|40-60|70-90|100-150|
Fil d'Alsace | --- | --- | --- | --- | 30 |36-50|60-90|100-150|
Fil a dentelle | --- | --- | --- | --- | 25 |30-50|60-90|100-150|
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+

EXPLANATION OF THE SIGNS *.--In crochet, as in knitting, you
frequently have to repeat the same series of stitches. Such repetitions
will be indicated, by the signs *, **, ***, etc., as the case may be.

CROCHET STITCHES.--In point of fact, there is only one, because all
crochet work consists of loops made by means of the hook or needle, and
connected together by being drawn the one through the other.

Crochet work may however, be divided into two kinds, German crochet, and
Victoria or Tunisian crochet; the latter is known also under the name of
_tricot-crochet._

In German crochet there are eight different kinds of stitches: (1) chain
stitch, (2) single stitch, (3) plain stitch, (4) treble stitch, (5)
knot stitch, (6) bullion stitch, (7) cluster or scale stitch, (8) double
stitch.

The rows are worked, according to the kind of stitch, either to and fro,
or all from one end. In the former case, the work has to be turned at
the end of each row, and the subsequent row begun with 1, 2 or 3 chain
stitches to prevent the contraction of the outside edge.

When the rows are all worked one way, the thread must be fastened on
afresh each time, which is done by putting the needle into the first
chain stitch of the preceding row, drawing the thread through it so as
to form a loop, and making one or more chain stitches according to the
height required.

At the end of each row, cut the thread and draw the end through the last
loop; in this manner all crochet work is finished off. Some crochet
workers make a few extra chain stitches with the ends of the thread at
the beginning and end of each row, or fasten them off with a few
stitches on the wrong side.

They can also, when the occasion requires, be formed into a fringe or
tassels as a finish to the work.

POSITION OF THE HANDS AND EXPLANATION OF (1) CHAIN STITCH (fig.
403).--Take the thread in the left hand between the finger and thumb,
hold the needle between the thumb and first finger of the right hand,
letting it rest on the second finger, in the same manner in which you
hold your pen, and put it into the loop, which you hold between the
finger and thumb of the left hand. Take up the thread, lying on your
finger, with the needle and make your first stitch as you do in
knitting, tightening the loop just enough to leave an easy passage
through it for the needle. The end of the thread must be held by the
thumb and forefinger. The next stitches are made by taking up the thread
with the needle and drawing it through the loop. The throwing of the
thread round the needle by a jerk of the wrist is called an 'over'.

[Illustration: FIG. 403. POSITION OF THE HANDS AND EXPLANATION OF CHAIN
STITCH.]

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