Encyclopedia of Needlework

T >> Therese de Dillmont >> Encyclopedia of Needlework

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[Illustration: FIG. 364. TOE.]

TOE (fig. 365).--We will describe one other kind of toe, quite as
shapely and easy to make as the others.

[Illustration: FIG. 365. TOE.]

1st round--purl the first 2 stitches on each needle together.

2nd and 3rd, 5th and 6th, 8th and 9th, 11th and 12th, 14th and 15th,
17th and 18th rounds--plain.

4th round--1 plain, 1 intake with the 2nd and 3rd stitches, and with the
last 2 on each needle.

7th round--knit the 2 first plain, make 1 intake with the 3rd and 4th
stitches, and 1 with the 2 last.

In each of the next rounds with intakes, knit 1 plain stitch more.

When the two seams meet, pull the last stitch on each needle over the
first of the next; knit the stitches between the intakes plain. Continue
to decrease in this manner until the last stitches are reached.

MENDING KNITTING.--Knitted articles are repaired by reconstructing
the web with a needle and thread. When the stitches are not actually
broken, they can be strengthened by new ones made over them, by means of
a needle and thread.

MATERIALS FOR DARNING STOCKINGS.--The thread used for darning a
stocking should be a little finer than that of which it is made. Coton a
repriser D.M.C[A] is the best, for as it consists of several strands it
can be subdivided as occasion requires.

STRENGTHENING THE STITCHES (figs. 366 and 367).--This can be done in
two ways. In fig. 366, the thread is brought out between two horizontal
bars, passed upwards over a perpendicular bar, put in by the side of the
same and brought out between the next horizontal bars.

Work the second row of stitches backwards; take up two threads on the
left, pass downwards to the right, over one thread, take up the thread
you passed over, and so on.

[Illustration: FIG. 366. STRENGTHENING THE LOOPS. FIRST WAY.]

[Illustration: FIG. 367. STRENGTHENING THE LOOPS. SECOND WAY.]

The other way, fig. 367, is, when you have brought out your needle, to
carry it over one thread to the right and upwards over two, take up the
next two threads on the left, pass downwards over two horizontal
threads, and over one thread to the right, and put in the needle where
it first came out; then working from right to left, take up two threads,
pass over one to the right, and downwards over two horizontal ones, and
so on. In the next row, hold your work, the finished part uppermost,
carry the needle downwards over one horizontal thread, bring it out
between two threads that lie separately and take it downwards again over
two horizontal threads, pick up two threads, working from right to left,
pass upwards over two threads and over one to the right, take up two to
the left, and so on.

REPAIRING PLAIN KNITTING (fig. 368).--When a broken piece of stocking
web requires to be replaced by new, draw the new and the old pieces
together with a needle and thread, using the same thread the stocking is
made of.

[Illustration: FIG. 368. REPAIRING PLAIN KNITTING.]

For this purpose, you must clear the loops, by ravelling them out top
and bottom, and slip them on to knitting needles. The loops that are to
be connected must lie exactly opposite to each other. Enter your
threaded needle upwards from below through the first disengaged upper
loop, and slip it off the knitting needle, then enter the needle,
downwards from above through the first lower loop, and upwards from
below through the next, and draw out just enough thread to make the new
loop the same size as the old ones. Then enter the needle, downwards
from above, through the same upper loop you took up before, taking up
also the one next to it, and passing your needle through it from
underneath; draw out the thread to form the new loop and descend again
to the next, and so on.

REPAIRING PURLED KNITTING (fig. 369).--To repair ribbed surfaces
consisting of alternate rows of plain and purl, proceed as follows: hold
the article so that the row of purled stitches is exactly opposite the
upper part. Enter your needle upwards from below, through the first
loop of the upper part; join the two lower loops together as in fig.
368; carry the needle upwards again, and enter it upwards from below
through the first loop of the upper part and downwards from above,
through the loop next it. Join the lower loops again, as in plain
knitting.

[Illustration: FIG. 369. REPAIRING PURLED KNITTING.]

DISENGAGING THE LOOPS FOR DARNING (fig. 370).--Where the threads are
broken, new loops have to be made, and the broken ones ravelled out and
cut, so that the horizontal loops may stand out clear and distinct. Cut
the threads on the vertical sides so that the loops form an edge and the
hole is square, clear two or four loops in the corners of the hole, fold
them in and fasten them off at the back by a stitch or two. The darns we
are next going to describe should be made upon a ball to prevent drawing
the threads too tightly.

[Illustration: FIG. 370. DISENGAGING THE LOOPS FOR DARNING.]

DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED HORIZONTALLY (figs. 371 and 372).--Carry
a horizontal thread across on the wrong side, in the place of each
broken thread, securing it in the sound part of the stocking, about two
threads from the edge of the hole. When you have made this foundation,
put the needle in on the right side near the stitch that is nearest to
the sound part on the left, fig. 371.

[Illustration: FIG. 371. DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED HORIZONTALLY.
POSITION OF THE HORIZONTAL THREADS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 372. DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED HORIZONTALLY. HOW
TO COVER THE HORIZONTAL THREADS.]

Then descending, pick up the nearest horizontal thread from below, so
that the working thread lies to the right of the needle, and cover all
the horizontal threads you have laid in this manner.

When you have taken up the last thread, pass the needle downwards from
above, through the nearest loop, and bring it back through the one at
which you entered it.

To make, in reascending, the second half of the loop, you must lay your
thread to the right of the needle, fig. 372.

When you have reached the last thread, enter the needle at the loop,
opposite the one it came out of.

DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED OBLIQUELY ACROSS (figs. 373 and 374).--As
the illustration shows, you have to pick up all the cleared loops,
besides two or three on either side of the empty space. The number and
length of the threads which you carry across, must correspond with those
of the threads you have to replace.

[Illustration: FIG. 373. DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED OBLIQUELY ACROSS.
POSITION OF THE THREADS.]

[Illustration: FIG. 374. DARNING ON THREADS STRETCHED OBLIQUELY ACROSS.
HOW TO COVER THE OBLIQUE THREADS.]

Fasten in, from the right side, a rather finer thread than the one the
original web is made of, and make a few stitches over the existing ones,
in the row you are about to complete.

Enter the needle upwards from below, through the first disengaged loop,
pass it under two threads issuing from one loop, and then bring it back
again into the same loop between the two slanting threads, drawing it
out again upwards from below, through the next loop, and so on. The new
loop must be just equal to the old ones in size. Make in the same manner
as at the beginning, two or three stitches at the end of the row, within
the edge of the hole. Work back in a similar way, with this difference
only, that you turn your work round.

PIQUE PATTERN (fig. 375).--The following patterns are suitable for
making counterpanes, petticoats, vests and other articles of clothing.
Select a suitable number of Coton a tricoter D.M.C. Cast on a number of
stitches divisible by 7, and begin by 6 rows of 5 plain stitches and 1
purled, taken from behind.

[Illustration: FIG. 375. PIQUE PATTERN. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter
D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30.]

7th row--purl from behind the 3rd of the 5 plain, and knit 5 plain more
and so on.

PIQUE PATTERN (fig. 376).--Cast on a number of stitches divisible by
14.

[Illustration: FIG. 376. PIQUE PATTERN. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter
D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30, or Coton pour crochet 4 fils D.M.C Nos. 4 to 20.[A]]

1st and 2nd row--* purl 7, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl
1, knit 1; repeat from *.

3rd and 4th row--* knit 7, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit
1, purl 1; repeat from *.

Repeat the whole from the 1st row.

PIQUE PATTERN (fig. 377).--Cast on a number of stitches divisible by
4.

[Illustration: FIG. 377. PIQUE PATTERN. MATERIALS: The same as for fig.
371.]

The 8 first rows--knit 2, purl 2.

9th and 10th row--knit 2 over the 2 purled, purl 2 over the 2 knitted of
the 8th row.

11th and 12th rows--the same as the first 8 rows.

13th and 14th row--the same as the 9th and 10th row.

15th to the 23rd--the same as the first 8 rows.

STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES (fig. 378).--This pattern is to be worked in
stripes, of two colours; we may here take occasion to mention that in
choosing two colours, one dark and one light, for a piece of work, the
dark cotton should always be one or two numbers finer than the light,
because the dark dyes thicken the cotton more than the light ones do.
The blue, red and dark brown dyes sink into the cotton more and cause
it to swell, whereas the lighter dyes do not affect its thickness.

[Illustration: FIG. 378. STRIPES FOR COUNTERPANES. MATERIALS: Coton a
tricoter D.M.C No. 6, 8, 10 or 12. COLOURS: Rouge-Turc 321 and
Gris-Tilleul 391.[A]]

Hence it comes, that for the stripes, here described, we were obliged to
take No. 8 of the red cotton and No. 6 of the green, in order that the
same number of stitches should make the same length of stripe.

Cast on 28 stitches:

1st needle--slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1
from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from
behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit
1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from
behind, knit 1, over, knit 3, 1 chain stitch.

2nd needle--wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from
behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl
1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5,
knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, knit 2 together, purl 2,
1 chain stitch.

3rd needle--right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from
behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit
1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from
behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl
1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 2, 1 chain stitch.

4th needle--wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1 from
behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl
1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5, knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from
behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit
1 from behind, purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.

5th needle--on the right side: slip 1, knit 2, over, knit 1, knit 1 from
behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit
1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2, knit 5,
purl 2, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl
1 from behind, knit 1, over, knit 2, 1 chain stitch.

6th needle--on the wrong side: slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1
from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 2, purl 5,
knit 2, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit
1 from behind, purl 1 from behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 1 from
behind, knit 1 from behind, purl 2 together, purl 2, 1 chain stitch.

7th needle like the 5th, 8th needle like the 4th, 9th needle like the
3rd, 10th needle like the 2nd, 11th needle like the 1st. Five plain
stitches form a zig-zag in the middle of the stripe.

Join the stripes with crochet stitches; of which several kinds are
described in the next chapter.

KNITTED SQUARE (fig. 379).--Cast on 2 stitches on to each of the 4
needles. Repeat always 3 times after the asterisk.

[Illustration: FIG. 379. KNITTED SQUARE. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter
D.M.C No. 8 or Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 20.]

1st row--over, knit 1, over, knit 1 *.

2nd row--knit 1, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 *.

3rd row--knit 1, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 2 *.

4th row--knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 2 *.

5th row--knit 1, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3, knit 2 *.

6th row--knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 2 *.

7th row--knit 1, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5, knit 2 *.

8th row--knit 1, purl 4, knit 2, over, knit 2, over, knit 1, purl 4,
knit 2 *.

9th row--knit 1, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit 1, over, knit 4, purl 3,
knit 2 *.

10th row--knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, over, knit 1, over, knit 6, purl 2,
knit 2 *.

11th row--knit 1, purl 1, knit 8, over, knit 1, over, knit 8, purl 1,
knit 2 *.

12th row--knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2 stitches (that is, first knit
off the second stitch plain and then the first), knit 1, over, knit 1,
over, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

13th row--knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 1, over, knit 1, over, purl 1,
knit 8, purl 3, knit 2 *.

14th row--knit 1, purl 4, knit 4, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1,
over, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 4, purl 4, knit 2 *.

15th row--knit 1, purl 5, knit 6, purl 3, over, knit 1, over, purl 3,
knit 6, purl 5, knit 2 *.

16th row--knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1,
over, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

17th row--knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, over, knit 1, over, purl 5,
knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.

18th row--knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 2, over,
knit 1, over, knit 2, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

19th row--knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 4, over, knit 1, over,
knit 4, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, knit 2 *.

20th row--knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, over,
knit 1, over, knit 6, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

21st row--knit 1, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, knit 8, over, knit 1, over,
knit 8, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 2 *.

22nd row--knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 6, cross
2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, over, knit 1, cross 2, knit
5, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

23rd row--knit 1, purl 5, knit 3, purl 3, knit 7, purl 1, over, knit 1,
over, purl 1, knit 7, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 2 *.

24th row--knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross
2, knit 1, purl 2, over, knit 1, over, purl 2, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3,
purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3, purl 4, knit 2 *.

25th row--knit 1, purl 3, knit 8, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, over, knit 1,
over, purl 3, knit 5, purl 5, knit 5, purl 3, knit 2 *.

26th row--knit 1, purl 2, knit 5, cross 2, knit 1, purl 4, knit 3, cross
2, knit 1, purl 4, over, knit 1, over, purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 3,
purl 4, knit 1, cross 2, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2 *.

27th round--knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, purl 3, knit 7, purl 5, over, knit
1, over, purl 5, knit 7, purl 3, knit 9, purl 1, knit 2 *.

Finish the square with several rows of purl and a chain.

PLAIN PATENT KNITTING, OR BRIOCHE PATTERN (fig. 380).--This easy and
extremely elastic stitch is used for all sorts of articles of clothing,
and is worked in two rows.

[Illustration: FIG. 380. PLAIN PATENT KNITTING, OR BRIOCHE PATTERN.]

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 3, with 4 extra for the
edge.

1st row--slip 1, knit 1, * over, put the needle into the next stitch, as
if to purl it, slip the stitch from the left needle to the right, knit
1, repeat from *, and finish with 2 plain.

2nd row--begin with 1 chain, knit 1, knit the slipped stitch and the
over together, over, slip the single stitch that remains, from the left
needle to the right. When the knitting is round, you purl and knit the
intake alternately.

DOUBLE PATENT KNITTING (fig. 381).--Begin on the wrong side.

[Illustration: FIG. 381. DOUBLE PATENT KNITTING.]

1st row--like the 1st row of fig. 380.

2nd row--knit all the stitches, pass the over by putting the needle into
it from right to left.

3rd row--like the second row of fig. 380. Now, it is only the second and
third row that should alternate.

Patent knitting has a charming effect, done in two colours, by working
them alternately backwards and forwards.

PLAITED STITCH (fig. 382).--This kind of stitch is worked in stripes,
which, for scarves, counterpanes, etc., are generally joined together
with stripes of plain knitting. For counterpanes, the lower numbers of
D.M.C cottons are most suitable, for smaller articles the higher
numbers. Plaited stitch is formed by crossing the stitches, that is, by
knitting the second stitch on the left needle to begin with, and then
the first stitch.

[Illustration: FIG. 382. PLAITED STITCH.

MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 8 to 20, or Cordonnet 6 fils
D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.]

If you cross two or more stitches in a few successive rows without
slipping them, the stitches will be seen by degrees, to form a plait, as
shown in fig. 382.

1st row--purl 4, cast on 3 stitches on to an auxiliary needle, and leave
it hanging on the inside of the work; knit 3 and then knit the 3
stitches on the extra needle, purl 4.

Then follow 5 rows, in which you purl all the purled stitches and knit
all the plain ones. After which 5 rows you repeat from the beginning.

TURKISH STITCH (fig. 383).--1st row--slip 1, knit 1, over, knit 2
together, over, knit 2 together, and so on to the 2 last stitches, which
you knit plain.

[Illustration: FIG. 383. TURKISH STITCH.]

2nd row--slip the 1st, knit the 2nd and the 3rd plain, the latter having
been formed by the last over on the 1st needle; 1 over, 1 intake with
the stitch and the over, 1 over, 1 intake and so on.

TURKISH STITCH WITH BEADS (fig. 384).--String the beads on the thread
before you begin to knit. When you only use one kind of bead, thread a
needle with your knitting cotton and run it through the thread on which
the beads are strung.

When you use several kinds, you must count and thread them on in the
required order. Beaded knitting is little in request now, excepting for
tobacco pouches and purses; for which you should use Cordonnet 6 fils
D.M.C Nos. 35, in any colour, and small beads.

[Illustration: FIG. 384. TURKISH STITCH WITH BEADS.]

For close beaded knitting, plain stitch is the best. Run the beads down
singly at each stitch. The beads will fall on the reverse side of the
work so that in knitting with beads, remember that the reverse side will
be the right side.

To work fig. 384, which represents the same stitch as fig. 383, you run
down 2 or sometimes 3 beads before knitting each stitch.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF COTTON (fig. 385).--A variety of
pretty things, such as open-work stockings, shawls, curtains etc. can be
made in this pattern, worked with two sizes of thread. To give it its
full effect it ought to be knitted with coarse needles, Nos. 10, 11, or
12.

[Illustration: FIG. 385. KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF COTTON.

MATERIALS: Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 20 or 30, and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
No. 60 or 80, ecru.[A]]

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 8. Take the coarse thread
to begin with.

1st and 2nd row--purl.

3rd row--purl 5, 2 overs, purl 5.

4th row--with the fine thread: over, knit 2 together, slip the next
stitch of the previous row, drop the double over, slip the next stitch,
1 over, knit 2 together.

5th row--over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, and so on.

6th row--like the last. See that the 2 slipped stitches, in the coarse
thread, always come on the right side of the work.

7th row--with the coarse thread: purl 4, purl the 2 slipped stitches of
the 3rd row together, then repeat from the 1st row.

See that in the 3rd row the 2 overs come between the stitches formed by
the 2 stitches that were formed by the 1st over, and the 2 stitches of
the 6th row, that were knitted together.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF THREAD (fig. 386).--Cast on a
number of stitches that divides by 4.

[Illustration: FIG. 386. KNITTING PATTERN WITH TWO KINDS OF THREAD.

MATERIALS: Fil a pointer D.M.C Nos. 25 to 30 and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
No. 60 or 80.]

1st row--with coarse thread: purl.

2nd row--plain.

3rd row--with fine thread: over, 1 intake, knit 2.

4th row--plain.

5th row--knit 1, over, 1 intake, knit 1.

6th row--plain.

7th row--knit 2, over, 1 intake.

8th row--plain.

9th and 10th row--with the coarse thread: purl.

11th row--plain.

12th row--with the fine thread: over, knit 2 together.

13th row--plain.

14th row--purl. Then repeat from the 1st row.

KNITTING PATTERN WITH DROPPED STITCHES (fig. 387).--Cast on a number
of stitches that divides by 9.

[Illustration: FIG. 387. KNITTING PATTERN WITH DROPPED STITCHES.

MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 16 to 30, Coton pour crochet
D.M.C Nos. 6 to 30, or Fil a pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30.]

1st row--over, slip 3, knit 1, 2 overs, knit 3, 2 overs, knit 1.

2nd row--knit 3, slip the next, drop the 2 overs, knit 4, turn the work,
purl 4, turn the work, knit 4, drop the 2 overs, slip the next stitch.

3rd row--over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, drop the
first of the 4 stitches, knit first the stitch that follows the second
double over, then the 4 others plain, and lastly, take up the dropped
stitch and knit it plain on the right side of the work.

4th row--knit plain.

5th row--over, slip 3, over, knit 6.

6th row--knit plain, and repeat from the 1st row.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 388).--This pattern may be worked with any one
of the D.M.C cottons recommended for fig. 387, but in the case of
anything that is not wearing apparel, Fil a pointer D.M.C will be found
more suitable. Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 18.

[Illustration: FIG. 388. KNITTING PATTERN.]

1st row--over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2
together, over, knit 4, knit 2 together, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull
slipped stitches over, over, knit 3.

Each row marked by an even number is to be knitted plain throughout.

3rd row--knit 1, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over,
knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2,
knit 2 together, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch
over, knit 1.

5th row--knit 2, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over,
knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2
together, over, knit 5, over, knit 2 together.

7th row--knit 3, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over,
knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1,
over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together,
over, knit 2.

9th row--knit 4, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over,
knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1,
over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2.

11th row--knit 5, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over,
knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull
slipped stitch over, knit 6.

13th row--knit 7, over, knit 2 together, over, purl 2 together, over,
slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5.

Repeat from the beginning.

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 389).--Cast on a number of stitches that
divides by 9.

1st row--2 overs, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 5, knit
2 together.

2nd row--2 overs, slip the first over on to the right needle, knit the
second over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 3, knit 2
together.

3rd row--2 overs, slip the overs of the two first rows on to the right
needle, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2
together.

4th row--drop the overs of the 3 first rows and knit 8 double stitches,
that is, knit 1 stitch on the over, slip it on to the left needle and
knit it again.

These 8 stitches finished, make 2 overs, and slip 3, knit 1, pull
slipped stitches over. Repeat from the beginning.

Each time you repeat the 4th row, make double stitches on 4 overs, that
is, on 4 threads.

[Illustration: FIG. 389. KNITTING PATTERN.

MATERIALS: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, or Fil a pointer D.M.C]

KNITTING PATTERN (fig. 390).--This pattern is suitable for children's
braces. For Coton a repriser D.M.C Nos. 6 to 20, which is the best for
the purpose, you will require fine bone needles.

Cast on a number of stitches that divides by 4.

1st row--over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2.

2nd row--knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1.

3rd row--knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over.

4th row--slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2, over.

5th row--knit 2 together, over, knit 2.

6th row--knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1.

7th row--knit 2 together, over, knit 2.

8th row--knit 2, knit 2 together, over.

Repeat from the beginning.

[Illustration: FIG. 390. KNITTING PATTERN. MATERIALS: Coton a repriser
D.M.C Nos. 5 to 20.]

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