Albert Durer
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T. Sturge Moore >> Albert Durer
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CHAPTER VI
DUeRER'S JOURNEY TO THE NETHERLANDS
I
It is even more the case with Duerer's journal written in the Netherlands
than with the letters from Venice that, like life itself, it is full of
repetitions and over-insistence on what is insignificant. I quote the
most interesting passages, and as there is never a good reason for doing
again what has already been well done; I am happy to quote Sir Martin
Conway's excellent notes, having found occasion to add only one. Duerer
set out on July 12, 1520, with his wife and her maid Susanna. It was
probably this Susanna who three years later married Georg Penz, one of
"the three godless painters." Duerer took a great many prints and
woodcuts, books both to sell and to give as presents; and besides he
took a sketch book in which he made silver-point sketches and portraits.
A good number of its pages have come down to us, and a great many of the
portraits he mentions having taken were done in it, and then cut out to
give to the sitter. All these drawings are on the same sized paper. We
reproduce one of them here (see page 156). Besides this sketch-book he
evidently had a memorandum-book in which he recorded what he did, what
he spent, whom he saw, and occasionally what he felt or what he wished.
The original is lost, but an old copy of it is in the Bamberg Library.
_July_ 12.--On Thursday after Kilian's, I, Albrecht Duerer, at my own
charges and costs, took myself and my wife (and maid Susanna) away to
the Netherlands. And the same day, after passing through Erlangen, we
put up for the night at Baiersdorf and spent there 3 pounds less
6 pfennigs.
July 13.--Next day, Friday, we came to Forchheim, and there I paid 22
pf. for the convoy.
Thence I journeyed to Bamberg, where I presented the Bishop (Georg III.
Schenk von Limburg[24]) with a Madonna painting, a Life of our Lady, an
Apocalypse, and a Horin's worth of engravings. He invited me as his
guest, gave me a Toll-pass[25] and three letters of introduction, and
paid my bill at the inn, where I had spent about a florin.
I paid six florins in gold to the boatman who took me from Bamberg to
Frankfurt.
Master Lukas Benedict and Hans,[26] the painter, sent me wine.
* * * * *
ANTWERP, _August_ 2-26, 1520.
At Antwerp I went to Jobst Plankfelt's[27] inn, and the same evening at
Fuggers' Factor,[28] Bernhard Stecher invite and gave us a costly meal.
My wife, however, dined at the inn. I paid the driver three gold florins
for bringing us three, and one st. I paid for carrying the goods.
_August_ 4.--On Saturday after the feast of St. Peter in Chains my host
took me to see the Burgomaster's (Arnold van Liere) house at Antwerp. It
is newly built and beyond measure large, and very well ordered, with
spacious and exceedingly beautiful chambers, a tower splendidly
ornamented, a very large garden--altogether a noble house, the like of
which I have nowhere seen in all Germany. The house also is reached from
both sides by a very long street, which has been quite newly built
according to the Burgomaster's liking and at his charges.
I paid three st. to the messenger, two pf. for bread, two pf. for ink.
August 5.--On Sunday, it was St. Oswald's Day, the painters invited me
to the hall of their guild, with my wife and maid. All their service was
of silver, and they had other splendid ornaments and very costly meats.
All their wives also were there. And as I was being led to the table the
company stood on both sides as if they were leading some great lord. And
there were amongst them men of very high position, who all behaved most
respectfully towards me with deep courtesy, and promised to do
everything in their power agreeable to me that they knew of. And as I
was sitting there in such honour the Syndic (Adrian Horebouts) of
Antwerp came, with two servants, and presented me with four cans of wine
in the name of the Town Councillors of Antwerp, and they had bidden him
say that they wished thereby to show their respect for me and to assure
me of their good will. Wherefore I returned them my humble thanks and
offered my humble service. After that came Master Peeter (Frans), the
town-carpenter, and presented me with two cans of wine, with the offer
of his willing services. So when we had spent a long and merry time
together till late in the night, they accompanied us home with lanterns
in great honour. And they begged me to be ever assured and confident of
their good will, and promised that in whatever I did they would be
all-helpful to me. So I thanked them and laid me down to sleep.
The Treasurer (Lorenz Sterk) also gave me a child's head (painted) on
linen, and a wooden weapon from Calicut, and one of the light wood
reeds. Tomasin, too, has given me a plaited hat of alder bark. I dined
once with the Portuguese, and have given a brother of Tomasin's three
fl. worth of engravings.
Herr Erasmus[29] has given me a small Spanish _mantilla_ and three men's
portraits.
I took the portrait of Herr Niklas Kratzer,[30] an astronomer. He lives
with the King of England, and has been very helpful and useful to me in
many matters. He is a German, a native of Munich. I also made the
portrait of Tomasin's daughter, Mistress Zutta by name. Hans
Pfaffroth[31] gave me one Philips fl. for taking his portrait in
charcoal. I have dined once more with Tomasin. My host's brother-in-law
entertained me and my wife once. I changed two light florins for
twenty-four st. for living expenses, and I gave one st. _t&k&d_ to a man
who let me see an altar-piece.
[Illustration: Silver-point drawing on a white ground, in the Berlin
Print Room]
_August_ 19.--On the Sunday after our dear Lady's Assumption I saw the
great Procession from the Church of our Lady at Antwerp, when the whole
town of every craft and rank was assembled, each dressed in his best
according to his rank. And all ranks and guilds had their signs, by
which they might be known. In the intervals great costly pole-candles
were borne, and their long old Frankish trumpets of silver. There were
also in the German fashion many pipers and drummers. All the instruments
were loudly and noisily blown and beaten.
I saw the procession pass along the street, the people being arranged in
rows, each man some distance from his neighbour, but the rows close one
behind another. There were the Goldsmiths, the Painters, the Masons, the
Broderers, the Sculptors, the Joiners, the Carpenters, the Sailors, the
Fishermen, the Butchers, the Leatherers, the Clothmakers, the Bakers,
the Tailors, the Cordwainers--indeed, workmen of all kinds, and many
craftsmen and dealers who work for their livelihood. Likewise the
shopkeepers and merchants and their assistants of all kinds were there.
After these came the shooters with guns, bows, and cross-bows, and the
horsemen and foot-soldiers also. Then followed the watch of the Lords
Magistrates. Then came a fine troop all in red, nobly and splendidly
clad. Before them, however, went all the religious Orders and the
members of some Foundations very devoutly, all in their different robes.
A very large company of widows also took part in this procession. They
support themselves with their own hands and observe a special rule. They
were all dressed from head to foot in white linen garments, made
expressly for the occasion, very sorrowful to see. Among them I saw some
very stately persons. Last of all came the Chapter of our Lady's Church,
with all their clergy, scholars, and treasurers. Twenty persons bore the
image of the Virgin Mary with the Lord Jesus, adorned in the costliest
manner, to the honour of the Lord God.
In this procession very many delightful things were shown, most
splendidly got up. Waggons were drawn along with masques upon ships and
other structures. Behind them came the company of the Prophets in their
order, and scenes from the New Testament, such as the Annunciation, the
Three Holy Kings riding on great camels and on other rare beasts, very
well arranged; also how our Lady fled to Egypt--very devout--and many
other things, which for shortness I omit. At the end came a great Dragon
which St. Margaret and her maidens led by a girdle; she was especially
beautiful. Behind her came St. George with his squire, a very goodly
knight in armour. In this host also rode boys and maidens most finely
and splendidly dressed in the costumes of many lands, representing
various Saints. From beginning to end the procession lasted more than
two hours before it was gone past our house. And so many things were
there that I could never write them all in a book, so I let it
well alone.
* * * * *
BRUSSELS _August_ 26-_September_ 3, 1520.
In the golden chamber in the Townhall at Brussels I saw the four
paintings which the great Master Roger van der Weyden[32] made. And I
saw out behind the King's house at Brussels the fountains, labyrinth,
and Beast-garden[33]; anything more beautiful and pleasing to me and
more like a Paradise I have never seen. Erasmus is the name of the
little man who wrote out my supplication at Herr Jacob de Bannisis'
house. At Brussels is a very splendid Townhall, large, and covered with
beautiful carved stonework, and it has a noble open tower. I took a
portrait at night by candlelight of Master Konrad of Brussels, who was
my host; I drew at the same time Doctor Lamparter's son in charcoal,
also the hostess.
I saw the things which have been brought to the King from the new land
of gold (Mexico), a sun all of gold a whole fathom broad, and a moon all
of silver of the same size, also two rooms full of the armour of the
people there, and all manner of wondrous weapons of theirs, harness and
darts, very strange clothing, beds, and all kinds of wonderful objects
of human use, much better worth seeing than prodigies. These things were
all so precious that they are valued at 100,000 florins. All the days of
my life I have seen nothing that rejoiced my heart so much as these
things, for I saw amongst them wonderful works of art, and I marvelled
at the subtle _Ingenia_ of men in foreign lands. Indeed, I cannot
express all that I thought there.
At Brussels I saw many other beautiful things besides, and especially I
saw a fish bone there, as vast as if it had been built up of squared
stones. It was a fathom long and very thick, it weighs up to 15 cwt.,
and its form resembles that drawn here. It stood up behind on the fish's
head. I was also in the Count of Nassau's house,[34] which is very
splendidly built and as beautifully adorned. I have again dined with my
Lords (of Nuernberg).
When I was in the Nassau house in the chapel there, I saw the good
picture[35] that Master Hugo van der Goes painted, and I saw the two
fine large halls and the treasures everywhere in the house, also the
great bed wherein fifty men can lie. And I _saw_ the great stone which
the storm cast down in the field near the Lord of Nassau. The house
stands high, and from it there is a most beautiful view, at which one
cannot but wonder: and I do not believe that in all the German lands the
like of it exists.
Master Bernard van Orley, the painter, invited me and prepared so costly
a meal that I do not think ten fl. will pay for it. Lady Margaret's
Treasurer (Jan de Marnix), whom I drew, and the King's Steward, Jehan de
Metenye by name, and the Town-Treasurer named Van Busleyden invited
themselves to it, to get me good company. I gave Master Bernard a
_Passion_ engraved in copper, and he gave me in return a black Spanish
bag worth three fl. I have also given Erasmus of Rotterdam a _Passion_
engraved in copper.
I have once more taken Erasmus of Rotterdam's portrait[36] I gave Lorenz
Sterk a sitting _Jerome_ and the _Melancholy_, and took a portrait of my
hostess' godmother. Six people whose portraits I drew at Brussels have
given me nothing. I paid three st. for two buffalo horns, and one st.
for two Eulenspiegels.[37]
ANTWERP, _September 6-October 4_, 1520.
I have paid one st for the printed "Entry into Antwerp," telling how the
King was received with a splendid triumph--the gates very costly
adorned--and with plays, great joy, and graceful maidens whose like I
have seldom seen.[38] I changed one fl. for expenses. I saw at Antwerp
the bones of the giant. His leg above the knee is 5-1/2 ft. long and
beyond measure heavy and very thick; so with his shoulder blades--a
single one is broader than a strong man's back--and his other limbs. The
man was 18 ft. high, had ruled at Antwerp and done wondrous great feats,
as is more fully written about him in an old book,[39] which the Lords
of the Town possess.
[Illustration: ERASMUS From a reproduction of the drawing in the "Leon
Bonnat" collection, Bayonne _Face p._ 148]
The studio (school) of Raphael of Urbino has quite broken up since his
death,[40] but one of his scholars, Tommaso Vincidor of Bologna[41] by
name, a good painter, desired to see me. So he came to me and has given
me an antique gold ring with a very well cut stone. It is worth five
fl., but already I have been offered the double for it. I gave him six
fl. worth of my best prints for it. I bought a piece of calico for three
st.; I paid the messenger one st.; three st. I spent in company.
I have presented a whole set of all my works to Lady Margaret, the
Emperor's daughter, and have drawn her two pictures on parchment with
the greatest pains and care. All this I set at as much as thirty fl. And
I have had to draw the design of a house for her physician the doctor,
according to which he intends to build one; and for drawing that I would
not care to take less than ten fl. I have given the servant one st., and
paid one st. for brick-colour.
* * * * *
October 1.--On Monday after Michaelmas, 1520, I gave Thomas of Bologna a
whole set of prints to send for me to Rome to another painter who should
send me Raphael's work[42] in return. I dined once with my wife. I paid
three st. for the little tracts. The Bolognese has made my portrait;[43]
he means to take it with him to Rome.
* * * * *
AACHEN, _October 7-26, 1520_.
_October_ 7.--At Aachen I saw the well-proportioned pillars,[44] with
their good capitals of green and red porphyry (_Gassenstein_) which
Charles the Great had brought from Rome thither and there set up. They
are correctly made according to Vitruvius' writings.
_October_ 23.--On October 23 King Karl was crowned at Aachen. There I
saw all manner of lordly splendour, more magnificent than anything that
those who live in our parts have seen--all, as it has been described.
* * * * *
KOeLN, _October 26--November 14, 1520_.
I bought a tract of Luther's for five white pf., and the "Condemnation
of Luther," the pious man, for one white pf.; also a rosary for one
white pf. and a girdle for two white pf., a pound of candles for
one white pf.
_November_ 12.--I have made the nun's portrait. I gave the nun seven
white pf. and three half-sheet engravings. My confirmation[45] from the
Emperor came to my Lords of Nuernberg for me on Monday after Martin's, in
the year 1520, after great trouble and labour.
ANTWERP, _November_ %--_December_ 3, 1520.
At Zierikzee, in Zeeland, a whale has been stranded by a high tide and a
gale of wind. It is much more than 100 fathoms long, and no man living
in Zeeland has seen one even a third as long as this is. The fish cannot
get off the land; the people would gladly see it gone, as they fear the
great stink, for it is so large that they say it could not be cut in
pieces and the blubber boiled down in half a year.
ZEELAND, _December_ 3-14, 1520.
_December_ 8.--I went to Middelburg. There, in the Abbey, is a great
picture painted by Jan de Mabuse--not so good in the modelling
(_Hauptstreichen_) as in the colouring. I went next to the Veere, where
lie ships from all lands; it is a very fine little town.
At Arnemuiden, where I landed before, a great misfortune befel me. As we
were pushing ashore and getting out our rope, a great ship bumped hard
against us, as we were in the act of landing, and in the crush I had let
every one get out before me, so that only I, Georg Kotzler,[46] two old
wives, and the skipper with a small boy were left in the ship. When now
the other ship bumped against us, and I with those named was still in
the ship and could not get out, the strong rope broke; and thereupon, in
the same moment, a storm of wind arose, which drove our ship back with
force. Then we all cried for help, but no one would risk himself for us.
And the wind carried us away out to sea. Thereupon the skipper tore his
hair and cried aloud, for all his men had landed and the ship was
unmanned. Then were we in fear and danger, for the wind was strong and
only six persons in the ship. So I spoke to the skipper that he should
take courage (_er sollt ein Herz fahen_) and have hope in God, and that
he should consider what was to be done. So he said that if he could haul
up the small sail he would try if we could come again to land. So we
toiled all together and got it feebly about half-way up, and went on
again towards the land. And when the people on shore, who had already
given us up, saw how we helped ourselves, they came to our aid and we
got to land.
Middelburg is a good town; it has a very beautiful Townhall with a fine
tower. There is much art shown in all things here. In the Abbey the
stalls are very costly and beautiful, and there is a splendid gallery of
stone; and there is a fine Parish Church. The town was besides excellent
for sketching (_koestlich au konterfeyen_). Zeeland is fine and wonderful
to see because of the water, for it stands higher than the land. I made
a portrait of my host at Arnemuiden. Master Hugo and Alexander Imhof and
Friedrich the Hirschvogels' servant gave me, each of them, an Indian
cocoa-nut which they had won at play, and the host gave me a
sprouting bulb.
_December_ 9--Early on Monday we started again by ship and went by the
Veere and Zierikzee and tried to get sight of the great fish,[47] but
the tide had carried him off again.
ANTWERP, _December_ 14--_April_ 6, 1521
I have eaten alone thus often.
I took portraits of Gerhard Bombelli and the daughter of Sebastian the
Procurator.
_February_ 10.--On Carnival Sunday the goldsmiths invited me to dinner
early with my wife. Amongst their assembled guests were many notable
men. They had prepared a most splendid meal, and did me exceeding great
honour. And in the evening the old Bailiff of the town[48] invited me
and gave a splendid meal, and did me great honour. Many strange masquers
came there. I have drawn the portrait in charcoal of Florent Nepotis,
Lady Margaret's organist. On Monday night Herr Lopez invited me to the
great banquet on Shrove-Tuesday, which lasted till two o'clock, and was
very costly. Herr Lorenz Sterk gave me a Spanish fur. To the
above-mentioned feast very many came in costly masks, and especially
Tomasin and Brandan. I won two fl. at play.
I dined once with the Frenchman, twice with the Hirschvogels' Fritz, and
once with Master Peter Aegidius[49] the Secretary, when Erasmus of
Rotterdam also dined with us.
I have twice more drawn with the metal-point the portrait of the
beautiful maiden for Gerhard.
I made Tomasin a design, drawn and tinted in half colours, after which
he intends to have his house painted.
I bought the five silk girdles, which I mean to give away, for three fl.
sixteen st.; also a border (_Borte_) for twenty st. These six borders I
sent to the wives of Caspar Nuetzel, Hans Imhof, Straeub, the two
Spenglers, and Loeffelholz,[50] and to each a good pair of gloves. To
Pirkheimer I sent a large cap, a costly inkstand of buffalo horn, a
silver Emperor, one pound of pistachios, and three sugar canes. To
Caspar Nuetzel I sent a great elk's foot, ten large fir cones, and cones
of the stone-pine. To Jacob Muffel I sent a scarlet breastcloth of one
ell; to Hans Imhof's child an embroidered scarlet cap and stone-pine
nuts; to Kramer's wife four ells of silk worth four fl.; to Lochinger's
wife one ell of silk worth one fl.; to the two Spenglers a bag and three
fine horns each; to Herr Hieronymus Holzschuher a very large horn.
BRUGES AND GHENT, _April_ 6-11, 1521.
I saw the chapel[51] there which Roger painted, and some pictures by a
great old master. I gave one st. to the man who showed us them. Then I
bought three ivory combs for thirty st. They took me next to St. Jacob's
and showed me the precious pictures by Roger and Hugo,[52]
who were both great masters. Then I saw in our Lady's Church the
alabaster[53] Madonna, sculptured by Michael Angelo of Rome. After that
they took me to many more churches and showed me all the good pictures,
of which there is an abundance there; and when I had seen the Jan van
Eyck[54] and all the other works, we came at last to the painters'
chapel, in which there are good things. Then they prepared a banquet for
me, and I went with them from it to their guild-hall, where many
honourable men were gathered together, both goldsmiths, painters and
merchants, and they made me sup with them. They gave me presents, sought
to make my acquaintance, and did me great honour. The two brothers,
Jacob and Peter Mostaert, the councillors, gave me twelve cans of wine;
and the whole assembly, more than sixty persons, accompanied me home
with many torches. I also saw at their shooting court the great fish-tub
on which they eat; it is 19 feet long, 7 feet high, and 7 feet wide. So
early on Tuesday we went away, but before that I drew with the
metal-point the portrait of Jan Prost, and gave his wife ten st.
at parting.
* * * * *
On my arrival at Ghent the Dean of the Painters came to me and brought
with him the first masters in painting; they showed me great honour,
received me most courteously, offered me their goodwill and service, and
supped with me. On Wednesday they took me early to the Belfry of St.
John, whence I looked over the great wonderful town, yet in which even I
had just been taken for something great. Then I saw Jan van Eycks
picture;[55] it is a most precious painting, full of thought (_ein
ueberkoestlich hochverstaendig Gemuehl_), and the Eve, Mary, and God the
Father are specially good. Next I saw the lions and drew one with the
metal-point.[56] And I saw at the place where men are beheaded on the
bridge, the two statues erected (in 1371) as a sign that there a son
beheaded his father.[57] Ghent is a fine and remarkable town; four great
waters flow through it. I gave the sacristan (at St. Bavon's) and the
lions' keepers three st. _trinkgeld_. I saw many wonderful things in
Ghent besides, and the painters with their Dean did not leave me alone,
but they ate with me morning and evening and paid for everything, and
were very friendly to me. I gave away five st. at the inn at leaving.
ANTWERP, _April_ 11-_May_ 17, 1521.
In the third week after Easter (April 21-27) a violent fever seized me,
with great weakness, nausea, and headache. And before, when I was in
Zeeland, a wondrous sickness overcame me, such as I never heard of from
any man, and this sickness remains with me. I paid six st. for cases.
The monk has bound two books for me in return for the art-wares which I
gave him. I bought a piece of arras to make two mantles for my
mother-in-law and my wife, for ten fl. eight st. I paid the doctor eight
st., and three st. to the apothecary. I also changed one fl. for
expenses, and spent three st. in company. Paid the doctor ten st. I
again paid the doctor six st. During my illness Rodrigo has sent me many
sweetmeats. I gave the lad four st. _trinkgeld_.
[Illustration: Drawing in silver-point on prepared ground, from the
Netherlands sketch-book, in the Imperial Library, Vienna]
On Friday (May 17) before Whit Sunday in the year 1521, came tidings to
me at Antwerp, that Martin Luther had been so treacherously taken
prisoner; for he trusted the Emperor Karl, who had granted him his
herald and imperial safe conduct. But as soon as the herald had conveyed
him to an unfriendly place near Eisenach he rode away, saying that he no
longer needed him. Straightway there appeared ten knights, and they
treacherously carried off the pious man, betrayed into their hands, a
man enlightened by the Holy Ghost, a follower of the true Christian
faith. And whether he yet lives I know not, or whether they have put him
to death; if so, he has suffered for the truth of Christ and because he
rebuked the unchristian Papacy, which strives with its heavy load of
human laws against the redemption of Christ. And if he has suffered it
is that we may again be robbed and stripped of the truth of our blood
and sweat, that the same may be shamefully and scandalously squandered
by idle-going folk, while the poor and the sick therefore die of hunger.
But this is above all most grievous to me, that, may be, God will suffer
us to remain still longer under their false, blind doctrine, invented
and drawn up by the men alone whom they call Fathers, by whom also the
precious Word of God is in many places wrongly expounded or
utterly ignored.
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