Recollections of Manilla and the Philippines

R >> Robert Mac Micking >> Recollections of Manilla and the Philippines

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In most colonies the people appear to possess a superior degree of
vigour or freshness of mind to those born in Europe, or in old and
thickly inhabited countries. This may result in a great degree from
their comparative freedom from conventional prejudices, the results
of a long and insensible growth in families, which trammel nearly
every mind in densely peopled countries, and more especially in places
where commerce is languidly carried on. Perhaps also in some measure
it may be owing to the greater facility the poorer classes have in
all colonies of earning a livelihood, which, by freeing their minds
from anxiety on that score, leaves some room for their speculations
on other matters.

In the administration of government, they are even now guided
essentially by the most imperative rules; but I hope that, ere long, in
many cases, the very arbitrary proceedings of their chief authorities
abroad, may become subject to approval by a council such as exists
in our Indian possessions, and in Java among the Dutch, as there can
be little doubt but that it would prove advantageous to the country
did such a body exist.

As an example of the procedures of the Manilla government, I may
mention the following facts, which occurred to an acquaintance of my
own, and on which every dependence may be placed.

Don Francisco P. de O---- having been presented with the governorship
of one of the best or most lucrative provinces in the Philippines,
set out for his residency and commenced his duties, which he continued
to fulfil satisfactorily to himself and the people for upwards of
a year--about fifteen months, I believe. His commission as Governor
embraced four years from the date of his appointment; however, at the
end of the first year in his office, a nephew of the then Governor
happened to arrive at Manilla, and it became an object of interest
to his uncle to get him into some good place before the term of his
appointment as Governor expired. Casting his eyes around on everything
that might serve his turn, he happened to recollect Don Francisco's
alcalde-ship, and forthwith despatched an order to my unfortunate
friend to return to Manilla, there to answer some complaints which,
he alleged in the order of recall, had been made against his
administration of the province, and at the same time told him to
deliver over all authority to the person he sent for the purpose,
that individual being neither more nor less than his own nephew.

Don Francisco, ignorant of committing any crime or fault, or of
anything that could justify this very unceremonious recall, hastened to
Manilla, and presenting himself at the palace, demanded what charges
had been lodged against him, and by whom they had been made. But
he could learn nothing of them, and was commanded by the Governor
to wait in Manilla till he should be formally summoned to answer
them. It is now, however, upwards of ten years since this happened,
and from that day to this he has never been summoned, nor has he been
even able to find out what the charges were on which he was recalled
from his lucrative appointment, although repeated applications were
made to the Governor who recalled him for a trial. All the subsequent
Governors have professed their inability to give him the information,
which, had such charges actually been framed, must have been found in
the archives, so that no doubt can now exist but that this villanous
trick was trumped up by the Governor to serve his own family by the
bestowal of Don Francisco's place. And as my friend has since filled
other situations, (and, in fact, is an Alcalde,) having been selected
by different Governors for office, the accusation does not in the
least affect his character.

But, in truth, many of the natives of Spain who are even now selected
to fill the highest offices, are about as despotic and as unscrupulous
as any Asiatics in their notions of government and in their exercise
of power, and as bad even as the Turks themselves are in their
administration of justice and equity; while the Spanish government,
and the political knowledge of the people, are infinitely behind the
Turkish government in everything concerning their commercial policy.

During the time of electing members for the Cortes, or parliament
in Spain, of course the existing government were anxious to secure
the tide of the general election running in their favour--but what
means do you, my courteous reader, imagine they took to secure this
object? Why, neither more nor less than to order the police to seize
all persons suspected of being likely to oppose their party actively
at the ensuing elections throughout the country. Thousands of people
were actually seized and hurried off to jail, to be confined there
till the danger was past; and many of them, on the jails becoming too
full to contain them all, were hurried to a seaport town and put on
board ships sailing to Manilla, or, by hundreds at a time, sent out
on a voyage of four months' duration, to reconsider their political
opinions, and then to find their road home as they best might.

These people were captured in all situations of time and place, and
were not allowed to communicate with their friends while in prison
in Spain, which must have given rise to at least as much distress
and privation among as many persons as the numbers of those seized,
for very many of them were people with families entirely dependent
upon them for support.

About a thousand of these _deportados_ reached Manilla in 1848-9, and
being entirely destitute of all resources or means of subsistence, they
had to be taken care of by the Colonial Government, who allowed them
some rice and water every day, and had, finally, to charter vessels
to re-ship them for the Peninsula. One of them was an Irishman, who
having entered the Spanish service when a lad, had reached the rank
of Colonel; his father was a general officer and K.C.B. of our own
army, who, I believe, had married a Spanish lady, and after his death,
his family had become resident in Spain.

The bad accommodation of a crowded ship, together with the want
of change of clothes, which he was not allowed to procure from
his friends, and the general filthiness of the people with whom he
was obliged to be cooped up during the long voyage, acted on him so
severely that it caused his death a very short time after his arrival
at Manilla. Thus the poor fellow fell a sacrifice to this abominable
stretch of arbitrary power, and dying destitute, was buried there,
after having been maintained decently in a hotel during the remainder
of his existence, at the expense of his countrymen then at Manilla.

When acts so atrocious as these can be done with impunity in any
European country by a powerful minister of the crown, we may form some
idea of its advance in the arts of self-government and the security
of its people.

This young man was very far from being the only person who fell a
victim to these acts, as many died from causes similar to those which
deprived him of life; and his case is only mentioned to give some
idea of the lengths men will proceed to when no checks are placed
on the Government machine, to prevent its bursting, and damaging
thousands. These abuses are so shameful, that they are scarcely
credible in Britain; but they are easily capable of corroboration
by inquiry and a little knowledge of Spain, where very frequently
caprice is the only law in existence, or at least is the only one acted
upon. I might multiply instances, but this is doubtless sufficient.

The orders of the Court at Madrid are not always laws in their
colonies, for every now and then the most imperative commands come
out from Spain which are refused obedience to at Manilla, where it
is openly asserted that the home government gives orders in favour
of importunate suitors, without the least expectation that they will
be acted upon by those to whom they are addressed; granting them,
in fact, merely to get rid of troublesome people who might annoy them
at home if their demands were refused.

CHAPTER VII.

People are generally seen to most advantage in their own houses;
and nowhere, I think, does any one appear to play the host better
than an average specimen of a Spanish gentleman under his own roof.

Notwithstanding a great deal of ceremony and the customary exaggerated
polite expressions used to every stranger, there is so much innate
hospitality in the national character that it is not to be mistaken,
and is perhaps one of their best and greatest virtues as individuals.

The modes of expression usual on occasions such as that of a first
visit to a house appear rather strange to any one born under a colder
sun than that of old Castile, and the first time that one is told,
on taking leave of his host at a place he has been visiting for the
first time, that the house, and every thing and person in it, are
his, or at his disposal, he is apt to be puzzled by the exaggeration
of the speech which contains such an unlimited offer, should he
be ignorant that it is quite a usual expression. Of course it means
nothing more than were any one to say or subscribe himself in English,
"I am your obedient servant," which he may be very far from feeling,
and may be constantly in the habit of using to his inferiors, and
even to people paid or employed by himself.

Some years ago an eccentric man, when this expression was used to him,
was known occasionally to interpret the words in their literal sense,
and in more than one instance he had the credit of having adroitly made
his court to a lady in that manner. He would watch for an opportunity,
or give a turn to the conversation, which would afford him a chance
of expressing admiration of some ornament she wore at the time, when
the fair owner would, as a matter of course, say that it was at his
disposal. Much to her surprise, the offer would be accepted, and the
swain would walk off with the ornament he had praised. However, next
day he always returned it in person; and to soothe her irritation,
which must have been excited by such conduct, he took the opportunity
of presenting her with some other ornament, or complimentary gift of
some description. This, if done as an atonement and peace-offering,
would probably be accepted, and the way was paved for an entrance into
her good graces, which he might have been quite unable to obtain by
any more direct means.

Frankness or openness of manner is considered by the Spaniards to be
the most desirable point of good breeding; and when any one possesses
that quality, he is pretty sure to be well received by them.

It is the custom at Manilla for any respectably-dressed European
passing by a house where music and dancing are going on, to be
permitted to join the party, although he may be a perfect stranger
to every one there; and should any one do so, after having made his
bow to the master of the house, and said some words, of course about
the liberty he was taking, and his fondness for music and dancing,
&c., he is always welcomed by him, and is at perfect liberty to ask
any lady present to dance; nor is she likely to refuse him, as her
doing so would scarcely be considered well bred.

This degree of freedom is not, however, at all times acted on in
the houses of the natives of Spain, or of any European foreigners,
as any one going so unceremoniously into these might not meet with
so cordial a reception as he would do from the rich Mestizos, who,
when they give such _fetes_ on feast days, are in general well pleased
to receive Europeans, although perfect strangers, in their houses.

These very free and unceremonious manners, among people who have
such a reputation for the love of ceremony in all forms, are strange
enough, for the same custom prevails in Spain, although to a more
limited extent.

Some years ago a British merchant, resident at Manilla, was very
much blamed by his countrymen for not conforming to the customs of
the country in this respect. He broke through them in this manner;--

After the China war, a part of the expedition visited Manilla,
including some of the principal officers both of the army and navy,
who had just been so gallantly distinguishing themselves in that
country. On their arrival at Manilla, the houses of their countrymen
to whom they went provided with introductions were in a great measure
thrown open to them; and of course, as their hospitable entertainers
wished to show them something of the people and the place, a good
deal of gaiety was got up to amuse them. Among others the gentleman
in question gave a ball to General Lord Saltoun and the Admiral,
including, of course, most of the other officers of the expedition. The
party was a large one, and included nearly all the British residents
there, together with his Spanish acquaintances.

Hearing the sounds of music and dancing in the street, a stranger
entered the house and walked up stairs; and unperceived, I believe,
by the landlord, entered the ball-room, where he engaged a Spanish
lady to dance,--the girl whom he asked chancing to be the daughter of
a military officer of rank, and a particular friend of the giver of
the party. On leading her up to her place, the stranger was remarked,
and recognised by some one present, who asked his host if he knew
who the person was; but he, on looking at him, merely said that he
did not, and was passing on without more notice or thought about
him. Just at the moment, some one wishing to quiz him, said to the
host, who was a man of hasty temper and feelings,--"So, D----, you
have got my tailor to meet your guests," pointing, at the same time,
towards the stranger whom he had just been observing.

Of course, Mr. D---- was angry at the liberty taken by such a person
in joining his party, and probably afraid of the laugh it would give
rise to; for he walked up to the tailor, and asked him in a most angry
manner by whose invitation he came there, and then, without waiting
for any reply, catching his coat-collar, walked with him to the top of
the stairs, and kicked him down. The man complained to the governor,
and the consequence was that Mr. D---- was fined a considerable amount,
and for some time banished to a place at a short distance from Manilla,
which he was forbidden to enter. As he was a merchant, and of course
had his business to attend to, this was a most severe punishment,
which, by the influence of the Consul, however, was subsequently
rescinded, and he was allowed to return to town.

In giving entertainments in honour of their saints, great sums of
money are frequently spent by the richer class of Mestizos and Indians,
every one appearing to vie with his neighbour, as to who shall be most
splendid in his saint's honour; and even among nearly the whole of
the poor people there is always some little extravagance gone into on
these occasions: some time previous to the feast taking place, part of
their earnings are carefully set apart for the feast-night's enjoyment.

At many of their _fiestas_, besides the devotional exercises, there is
a great deal of amusement going on, the Mestiza girls being frequently
good-looking, and nearly all of them addicted to dancing; many of
them are passionately fond of waltzes, and dance them remarkably
well--better, I think, than any women I have elsewhere seen in a
private room.

Their dress, which is well adapted to the climate, is, when worn by
a good-looking girl, particularly neat.

It consists of a little shirt, generally made of pina cloth, with wide
short sleeves: it is worn loose, and, quite unbound to the figure in
any way, reaches to the waist, round which the _saya_ or petticoat
is girt, it being generally made of silk, checked or striped, of gay
colours, of _huse_ cloth, or of cotton cloth. Within doors, these
compose their dress, no stockings being worn, but their well-formed
feet, inserted in slight slippers without heels, and embroidered with
gold and silver lace, lose nothing in beauty from the want of them.

Out of doors, another piece of dress called the _sapiz_, composed of
dark blue silk or cotton cloth, slightly striped with narrow white
stripes, is usually worn over the saya.

No bonnets or hats of any sort are worn by them, their long and
beautiful hair being considered a sufficient protection to the head,
which they arrange in something like the European fashion, it being
fastened by a comb, or some gold ornament in a knot at the back of
the head.

On going out of doors, a handkerchief is often thrown over the head,
should the sun be strong, or an umbrella or parasol is carried as a
protection against it.

A similar dress, made of coarser and cheaper materials, is the usual
costume of all the native women.

The men, both native and Mestizo, wear trousers fastened round the
waist by a cord or tape, the fabric being sometimes silk of country
manufacture, for their gala dresses, or of cotton cloth striped and
coloured, for every-day use.

The shirt, which is worn outside the trousers, that is to say, the
tails hanging loose above the trousers, and reaching to just below the
hips, is generally made of pina cloth, or, among the poorest people,
of blue or white cotton cloth. When of pina cloth, the pattern is
generally of blue or other coloured stripes with flowers, &c. worked
on them, and it is a very handsome and gay piece of dress. When worn
outside the trousers, it is much cooler than when stuffed into them
in the European manner. A hat and slippers, or sandals of native
manufacture, complete their dress, and the only difference of costume
between the rich and poor consists in the greater or less value of
the materials which compose it. No coat or jacket is worn, but many
of the men, and nearly all the women, wear a rosary of beads or gold
round their necks; and frequently a gold cross, suspended by a chain
of the same metal, rests between the bosoms of the fair. Many of them
also wear charms, which having been blessed by the priest, are supposed
to be faithful guardians, and to preserve the wearer from all evil.

CHAPTER VIII.

The honours paid to the saints by the celebration of their feast-days
are nearly altogether practised by the Mestizo and Indian population,
the richer or upper classes of Spaniards being for the most part too
careless on such occasions, except when their turn comes to dance at
the _fetes_, or to eat the supper set out by their Mestizo neighbours
on these anniversaries; and certainly, if their piety be judged by
the alacrity usually displayed on such occasions, they will stand
very forward in the race out of purgatory. For, strange to say, the
modern Spaniards--at least those who come to the Philippines--are
as little superstitious or priest-ridden as the people of any
nation in Europe. Probably this is a symptom of their return to a
more moderate degree of faith than they used to evince prior to the
French Revolution, which has altered the tone of opinion and manners
throughout the world. And after the severity and rigid observance of
all the church high-days and holydays formerly prevalent among them,
the tide of opinion appears to have run into the opposite extreme.

I have frequently been astonished at discovering the extent to which
infidel notions are current among my Spanish acquaintances; their
prevailing opinions on the subject being, that the priests and some
of the tenets of the Catholic church are behind the age, and as such,
are to some extent unworthy of the serious attention of well-informed
people of the present day, and that those things are only suitable for
women and children. _Es cosa de mugeres_, is the usual expression,
should the subject be mentioned; and as regards the priests, the
laity very generally fancy that they must be watched carefully, as
they are certain to assume importance should an opportunity offer for
thrusting their noses into any affair they can, military or civil--it
matters not which to these ambitious men.

Among the native population, however, high church opinions, or a
notion that virtue is inherent in the walls of the church and the
priestly office, is very common, so that whatever the _padre_ says
is looked upon as indisputable by them. But I cannot say that any
rational systems of religion, or feelings not associated so much with
the _padre's_ office and dress, and with the stone and lime of the
church, as with the more pure and immaterial subjects of religious
belief, exist among them, or influence their conduct. Frequently one
sees instances of this, which place their feelings in the grossest
and worst light. For example, the first act of a courtesan in the
morning is generally to repair to the church, and after, as a matter
of course, having said her prayers, to pass the time in any species
of debauchery or immorality her lovers may wish. I state this fact,
to give some idea of the extent of superstition and of priestly
influence over their conduct, which shows how powerfully mere habits
and custom may influence our manners without improving our minds,
when we are brought up in a formal routine of habits of respect for we
don't know well what; for they have no further acquaintance with the
principles of religious belief than the habit of crossing themselves
before figures of the Virgin and the crucifixion.

For even these women, infamous though they be, seldom omit the
observance of such practices, and are in general as punctual in
repeating diurnally the formal prayer which has been taught them in
childhood, as any Christian can be, whenever the hour of _oracion_
is come, which is notified to all the population by the tolling of
the church bells.

However, Manilla appears not to be quite singular as to these matters;
for it has been frequently stated by visitors to the states of the
Church, that nine months after the great religious festival of the
Carnival there, a much greater number of illegitimate children are
born than during other seasons of the year.

This statement, which I have seen mentioned as a statistical fact,
is probably attributable to the idleness of the people, ignorant and
uninstructed as to any higher devotional feelings than those which
custom teaches; although, doubtless, religious admonition, having
a tendency to unloose the mind, and withdraw it from its customary
objects of interest, may induce these softer emotions, and among
people in whom the animal passions preponderate over those of the
mind, or of a spiritual nature, may frequently lead to conduct of
this loose description.

Perhaps, also, the sense of satisfaction after having gone through the
ceremony of attending church, and of having performed the humble duty
which all are taught to practise there, disposes the people to this
license, for they carry away no new idea with them from the sacred
house. The formal exercise there being gone through by rote, without
exciting new feelings, or touching new chords in their hearts, may
cause them to break away from strictness, and give a rein to their
passions after the exercise of their religious duties.

The Indians are people who, being bred up with a regard to observances
which retain no hold over their minds--at least, over the reason
which God has endowed them with--in order to judge for themselves,
think religious observances derive their importance only from custom;
but having been trained up with little regard to the sterner and
self-denying mental duties or instruction usually held up to our
admiration in Britain and other Protestant countries, they can scarcely
be expected to practise them. In addition to this, the heat of the
climate probably disposes them this way; as in all countries where
the _dolce far niente_ is most agreeable to them, or is generally
practised by the inhabitants, those feelings are likely to prevail
in a greater degree than where active habits are more congenial to
the people and the temperature of the climate.

CHAPTER IX.

The habits of the Spanish residents at Manilla are exceedingly
indolent. As persons in the government service form the great
proportion of the white population, a sketch of the habits of one
of them may not be uninteresting;--say those of an average officer
of the Hacienda, for instance. He usually gets out of bed about six,
or a little after, to enjoy the cool air of the morning, and sip his
chocolate, with the aid of _broas_, without which he could scarcely
manage to get through the day; he then dresses, and drives to his
office, where he remains till twelve o'clock, which hour finishes
his official duties for the day. While in his office the nature
of his work is not very arduous, and does not appear to call into
play any powers of the mind, as it appears to consist only in his
remaining for about four hours in a cool and large room, generally
seated at a table or desk, overlooking a number of native writers,
occupied in making out and filling up forms which are required by
the existing regulations for the government service. The Spaniard,
however, has nothing to do with all that, only occasionally exerting
himself so far as to sign his name, or merely to dash his rubrica,
without taking the trouble to sign his name, to the papers presented
to him by these native copyists; and should you enter his office,
he generally appears to be just awaking from a nap, as he opens his
eyes, and rouses himself to salute a visitor.

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