Real Life In London, Volumes I. and II.

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The previous observations of Mr. Carlile are admirably
elucidated by the following Police Report of one of the
Newspapers:

The Bridge-street Association.--After a cessation of
hostilities for two or three days, Mr. Secretary Murray, and
the forces of the Bridge Street Association under his
command, re-assembled at this Justice-room [Guildhall] on
Saturday.

Mr. Honorary Secretary Sharp was also in attendance, and
remained in the public room with the Yeomen, while the Co-
Secretary was indulged with a private interview with the
Magistrate, Mr. Alderman Birch, in the parlour. Mr. Newman,
the City Solicitor, was also called into council, and
remained iu consultation with Secretary Murray some time;
there was much marching and countermarching in and out of
the office on the part of the Secretary and the Yeomen, but
no public application on the part of the Association was
made to the Alderman, and it was understood that there was
much difficulty in determining the manner of renewing, with
any prospect of success, the attacks upon the inmates of
"The Temple of Reason."

The difficulty, it seems, arose from the new mode of defence
adopted by the besieged. The little parlour which
adjoins the shop has been converted into a citadel, the
glass partition which separates them is closely blinded, and
the operations carried on in ambush behind it; two of the
squares of glass have been taken out, and in the place of
one of them is erected a box with an aperture for the
receipt of money, over which is an inscription, "Put your
money in here;" and in the other, a contrivance by which the
pamphlet wanted is slid down to the purchaser from the
inside of the citadel. This machinery, however, is used only
for the sale of such works as have already been made the
object of prosecution. The seller is invisible, and the
identification of his person rendered impracticable, unless
the citadel be taken by storm. Little Waddington, heretofore
the Radical standard-bearer, whose own experience has
procured for him an extensive acquaintance with the persons
of officers and informers, has assumed the command, and
conducts the operations in the front shop, where the sale of
such of Carlile's publications as have not as yet come under
the censure of the law, is carried on as usual.

~76~~ officers of the Police had just taken one of the shopmen in
custody, for vending an alleged seditious or treasonable publication,
upon the information of a Yeoman in the pay of the Bridge Street Gang.
The crowd of persons induced our friends to make a little further
enquiry into the cause, who were soon informed, that in consequence of
the repeated attempts to stop the issue of books and pamphlets sold, at
what is denominated the Temple of Reason, a part of the shop had been
boarded off, so as completely to screen the venders of any publication
from the eye of the purchaser, and by this means to render abortive all
future attempts to identify any supposed offender.

"Why," said Dashall, "it is an old saying, and I believe a very
true one, If you tread upon a worm it will turn. Such appears to be
exemplified in the case of this man. You have also heard me remark, that
in London it signifies little by what means a man obtains popularity,
and here is a case exactly in point. An extensive body of rich men have
combined their efforts to crush an individual of little importance in
the world, and who perhaps would before this have been forgotten, but
for their indiscreet interference with his pursuits. They are now not
only foiled in their endeavours to obtain fresh exercise for their
Yeomen, and more work for their Lawyers, but, in consequence of their
determined opposition, the world is likely to be deluged with every
obnoxious publication, without any chance of detecting the sellers."

"It is a curious manouvre," said Tallyho.

"Yes, and it appears to have the desired effect with the Carliles and
their adherents. They carry on the war in ambuscade, and are selling,
without fear, books and ~77~~ pamphlets, of which but for the
_Constitutional Committee_, as they call themselves, perhaps half the
world would have known nothing. Such, however, is frequently the effect
of intemperate zeal, and these Gentlemen have blown into notoriety that
which they intended to suppress, whether upon the substantial grounds of
reason or propriety, I leave others to decide."

Becoming now entangled in a double row of carriages, with little
prospect of making further progress for some time, our friends resigned
the curricle to the care of the servant, and proceeded on foot to the
City Coffee House, Ludgate Hill, for refreshment.{1}

1 When the City Coffee House was first opened, Dr. Johnson
frequently called there, and one morning observing a large
book upon the table, took it up, and after inspecting the
outside with great attention, he found it to be Minshew's
Dictionary of Twelve Languages; upon which he turned round
to the master of the house and asked him, "What use he could
have for such a book?" "To amuse literary Gentlemen," was
the reply. "Do you under-stand any of these languages?" "I
find it a very difficult task, Sir, to understand my own,
and I am not possessed of the erudition of a Johnson." The
Doctor looked at him stedfastly and replied, "Sir, you are a
very impudent fellow." "Sir, I am sorry you think so,"
replied the proprietor, "and I hope we shall both of us mend
our manners." On this the Doctor drank his chocolate, and
marched out of the house.

This Coffee House is much resorted to, and, in point of comfortable
accommodation, is perhaps not surpassed by any in London.

Having regaled themselves, and looked over the leading papers of the
day, they proceeded to inspect the interior of that noble edifice, the
pride of the British empire, St. Paul's Cathedral.

"According to vulgar tradition," said Dashall, "this church occupies the
site of a Roman temple, which was consecrated to Diana; but the son of
Sir Christopher Wren, in his Parentalia, controverts this opinion, and
contends, that the first cathedral of the Episcopal see of London was
built in the area, the seat of the Roman Praetorian camp, the precise
spot on which the present church stands. It is supposed to have been
destroyed in the general persecution under the emperor Dioclesian, to
have been re-edified under Constantine, to have been demolished by the
Pagan Saxons, and to have been restored in the seventh century, when the
Saxons embraced ~78~~ Christianity. From this period it has been four
times rebuilt, and at the great fire of London was totally destroyed."

These remarks premised by Dashall for the information of his friend,
they proceeded to view the several statues and funeral monuments,
displayed with uniformity and executed with considerable taste, by which
the interior of the church has been much improved in appearance.{1}

After having examined these stately and expressive mementos of
mortality, the two visitors were asked by their attendant, whether they
would pass to the stone and iron galleries outside of the church; but
this, having so lately enjoyed the extensive prospect from the Monument,
they declined, and proceeded at once to the Library, the first object to
be seen in the ascent.

Our two visitors were very much pleased with this handsome room, which
in its dimensions is about fifty feet by forty, having shelves of books
to the top, with a gallery

1 The statues of Dr. Johnson, and Howard the philanthropist,
both executed by the late Mr. Bacon, were opened for public
inspection in 1796. That of Dr. Johnson represents a moral
philosopher, with the attitude and expression of intense
thought, leaning against a column, indicative of the
firmness of mind and stability of principles of the man whom
it is intended to commemorate.

The statue of Howard, in which the character of active
benevolence is well expressed, stands upon a pedestal of
white marble, on which is a group of bas-relief,
representing a scene in a prison, where the philanthropist,
having broken the chains of the prisoners, is bringing
provision and clothing for their relief.

The statue of Sir William Jones, a man well known for his
extensive and multifarious erudition, whose study it was to
make the British name honoured and revered amongst the
nations of the East, is also the work of Bacon, and was
erected by the East India Company.

Amongst the monuments lately raised in commemoration of de-
parted worth, is that of Nelson, and in design and execution
it is not exceeded by any in the Cathedral.

In the open part of the Cathedral, the stranger will be
struck with the appearance of numerous tattered flags, the
trophies of British valour. Those over the aisle leading
from the western door, were taken in part during the
American War, and the rest by the Duke of York at
Valenciennes. Those on both sides near the north door, were
reprisals made from the French by Lord Howe, on the 1st of
June, 1794; opposite to which, on the right hand, are the
flags taken from the Spaniards by Lord Nelson, in 1797; and
on the left are those taken from the Dutch by Lord Duncan,
at Camperdown, and by Lord Keith at the Cape of Good Hope.

~79~~running along the sides. The floor is of oak, consisting of 2376
small square pieces, and is not only curious for its being inlaid,
without a nail or a peg to fasten the parts, but is very neat in the
workmanship, and beautiful in its appearance. The principal things
pointed out to a stranger, are several carved stone pillars, some Latin
manuscripts, written by Monks 800 years ago, and an English manuscript
illuminated, containing rules for the government of a convent, written
in old English, about 500 years since, all in fine preservation.

The clock-work and the great bell were the next curiosities that
attracted the attention of our visitants. On the latter, weighing
11,470lbs. the hammer of the clock strikes the hours. It was now noon,
and the ponderous hammer put itself into motion, and slowly, yet with
astounding impetus, struck the bell, and the reverberation tingled on
the auricular organs of the two strangers with painful and stunning
effect throughout the long protracted intimation of the hour; nor was it
until a considerable time had elapsed, that their hearing recovered from
the clanging agitation.{1}

1 This bell is never tolled but upon the death of some of
the Royal Family, of the Bishop of London, or of the Dean of
St. Paul's, and then the clapper is moved and not the bell.
In the stillness of night, the indication of the hour by the
deeply sonorous tone of this bell may be heard, not merely
over the immense Metropolis, but in distant parts of the
country. The fact is well known of the sentry at Windsor,
who, when accused of having been asleep one night on his
post, denied the charge, saying, "That he had been listening
to St. Paul's in London, which had just struck thirteen!"
And this assertion was, upon enquiry, satisfactorily
corroborated.

They were now ushered into the _Whispering Gallery_, which is
constructed on the very simple principle of an unbroken communication.
It is 140 yards in circumference, and a stone seat runs round the
gallery along the foot of the wall. On the side directly opposite to the
entrance door, Dashall and his friend seated themselves, when the person
who shewed the gallery whispered close to the door, at the distance
of 140 feet, and yet they heard his voice seemingly at their ear. The
shutting of the door resembled a clap of thunder. From this gallery,
round the inner circle of which is an iron balustrade, the marble
pavement of the church exhibits a beautiful appearance, and the
paintings of the dome, which have ~80~~ greatly suffered by time, are
thence seen to the greatest advantage.

The ascent to the ball is attended by some difficulty, and is
not encountered by many. Our two visitants therefore declined its
inspection. The interior diameter of the ball is six feet two inches,
and will contain twelve persons.{1}

1 A new ball and cross have lately replaced the former, of
similar dimensions. The erection of the scaffolding, and
subsequent proceedings of the workmen, at so fearful a
height from the "haunts of men," excited a very general
interest, more particularly so on the recent happy
accomplishment of the undertaking, when the in-trepid
aeronauts cheered the admiring multitude far beneath, and,
seated in the clouds like the deities of Mount Olympus,
drank to the prosperity of their friends in the nether
regions.

The best view of the metropolis is obtained, in a clear day, from the
gallery at the foot of the lantern. The diminutive appearance of the
passengers and other objects beneath is extremely amusing, and resembles
the Elfin Panorama of the capital of Lilliput.

The calm serenity of the interior, the awful grandeur of the structure
itself, and the reflections arising from the contemplation of monuments
erected to the memory of departed worth, with the splendid achievements
of heroic minds, formed a strange contrast to the scene which presented
itself to their view on leaving this magnificent pile. The hurry,
bustle, and confusion of the street, the noisy vociferations of
coachmen, carmen, &c. burst upon their senses at a moment when the mind
had been soothed by reflection, and the eye gratified with a sight which
led imagination into futurity, before which the past and the present
had appeared to evaporate. The Hon. Tom Dashall, however, was quickly
recalled by observing his curricle so completely hemmed in between
contending parties to obtain liberation at the corner of Paul's chain,
as to afford but little chance of escape from its intricate situation
for some time.

"Zounds," said Tom, "we had better return and take a seat among the
worthies within, for I have no idea of mounting the curricle, to sit and
be quizzed."

"Any chance," said Bob, "is better than that; but at all events your man
is able to take care of the carriage and cattle, and we are competent to
the care of ourselves."

"Well hinted," replied Tom, "and it shall be acted upon."

~81~~ Thus saying, he made his way through the throng, and gave orders
for the curricle to proceed home as soon as it could be extricated from
its present confinement. Then returning to his Cousin,

"It is not the first time I have been disappointed; I had made up
my mind to proceed much farther; but the very scenes we have been
inspecting are proofs of the inability of man to perform all his wishes,
although equally' a proof of the splendid talents and determined valour
of our renowned and deservedly remembered countrymen, and are well
calculated to inspire us with patience, fortitude, and forbearance. At
the other door we can escape from the bustle of this side; and perhaps
the best thing we can do under existing circumstances, will be to speed
homewards, and after dinner relax a little from our toils, in order to
recruit for further activity."

"Have with you," said Bob; "we have enjoyed the first part of the day on
a variety of interesting subjects, and after a cheerful and refreshing
ride, have at last arrived at the threshold of eternity. We may as well
escape for this time if we can, and cheat the grim tyrant of mankind.
Although our ride has been a long one, our walk back is but short, so
let us lose no time."

In accordance with this recommendation, he caught hold of Dashall's arm,
proceeded through the Cathedral, and arrived at Piccadilly without any
thing remarkable or particular to record, where we shall for the present
leave them to their enjoyments among the able writers with which Tom's
bookcase was well stored.

CHAPTER VI

Hail! venerable pile! with awe I tread
The sacred mansion of th' illustrious dead!
Where rise, o'er forms now mould'ring into dust,
The "storied urn" and "animated West."--
Beneath the fretted dome, aspiring high,
Here monarchs, heroes, poets, sages, lie!
"Deaf the prais'd ear, and mute the tuneful tongue,"
Here sleeps the bard with those whom erst he sung;
And all consigned to one impartial doom,
Lo! kings and subjects levelled in the tomb!

IN a perambulation westward, our friends shortly reached the precinct
of Westminster Abbey, or the collegiate Church of Saint Peter; the most
ancient religious structure in the metropolis.

Divested of fabulous narration, its history is briefly as follows. Its
name is obviously derived from its situation, in the west, and from its
original destination as the church of a monastery. It was founded by
Sebert, king of the East Saxons; was destroyed afterwards by the Danes;
was subsequently re-built by king Edgar in 958; the church was again
re-built by Edward the Confessor in 1065; and by Pope Nicholas II. it
was constituted a place of inauguration of the English Monarchs. Henry
III. re-built it from the ground, and Henry VII. added a magnificent
chapel at the east end of it. The monastery was surrendered by the
abbot and monks to Henry VIII. who first converted it into a college of
secular canons, and afterwards into a cathedral, of which the county of
Middlesex was the see. His successor, Edward VI. dissolved the see, and
restored the college, which was again converted by Mary into an abbey.
That institution was dissolved by Elizabeth in 1560; she founded the
present establishment, which is a college consisting of a dean, 12
secular canons, and 30 petty canons; to which is attached a school of
40 boys, denominated the Queen's or King's scholars, with a master and
usher; and also twelve alms-men, an organist, and choristers.

Its greatest length is 489 feet; the breadth of the west front 66 feet;
the length of the cross aisle 189 feet; and the height of the roof 92
feet; the west end is adorned with two towers, which were built by Sir
Christopher Wren. The nave and cross aisles are supported by two rows
of arches, of Sussex marble, one above the other, each of the pillars of
which is a union of one massy round pillar, and tour others of a similar
form, but slender. These aisles are lofty, and each of the small pillars
being extended from the base to the roof, they produce an idea at once
sublime and awful. Besides the cross aisle there are two side aisles,
which are lower than the nave; and, being in a just proportion, they
unite with the other parts of the edifice to produce a harmonious
effect. The choir, from which there is an ascent by several steps to
a magnificent altar-piece of white marble, is divided from the western
part of the great aisle by two iron gates, and is perhaps the most
beautiful choir in Europe: its roof was materially injured by fire,
occasioned by the carelessness of the plumbers who were repairing it
in 1803, but it has since been completely restored, at an expence of
upwards of L4000. In this choir is performed the coronation of the Kings
and Queens of England.

This succinct account will not prove unacceptable, we hope, to our
readers.

The attractive spot at the southern extremity of the cross aisle was
now entered by the two friends. "This," said Dashall, "is called Poet's
Corner, and never could a place be named with more propriety."

Tallyho cast an eye of intense observation on these sacred records
of departed excellence. Here he found the names of Chaucer, Spenser,
Shakespeare, Johnson, Milton, Dryden, Butler, Thomson, Gay, Goldsmith,
&c. There also, as though the spot were dedicated to genius of the
highest rank, are the tombs of Handel and Garrick. The Squire in his
admiration of the British Poets, now gave full scope to the ardency of
his feelings, and surrounded by the sculptured images of the bards of
former days, he seemed as if environed by a re-animated constellation of
genius, and wrapt in the delirium of its inspiritive influence.

~84~~ Westminster Abbey contains a great number of monuments of kings,
statesmen, heroes, poets, and persons distinguished by genius, learning,
and science; but many of these monuments can be regarded as little
better than so many disfigurements of the buildings. Some however are to
be spoken of with praise, and the best are the productions of Reubilliac
and Bacon.

The curiosities of Westminster Abbey consist chiefly of twelve chapels,
the principal of which were visited by Dashall and his cousin; but to
the chapel of Henry VII. their chief attention was directed. This chapel
is contiguous to the eastern extremity of the church, and opens into it:
it is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and is one of the finest specimens
of Gothic antiquity in the world. On its site formerly stood a chapel
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and also a tavern, distinguished by the
sign of the White Rose: Henry resolving to erect a superb mausoleum for
himself and his family, pulled down the old chapel and tavern, and
on the 11th of February in the year 1503, the first stone of the new
structure was laid by Abbot Islip, at the King's command. It cost
L14,000, an immense sum for that period, particularly considering
the rapacious temper of the king. The exterior of the chapel is
distinguished by the richness and variety of its form, occasioned
chiefly by 14 towers, elegantly proportioned to the body of the edifice,
and projecting in different angles from the outer-most wall: the inside
is approached by the area at the back of the chapels of Edward the
Confessor and Henry v. The floor of this chapel is elevated above that
of the area, and the ascent is by a flight of marble steps: the entrance
is ornamented with a handsome gothic portico of stone, within which
are three large gates of gilt brass, of curious open workmanship, every
pannel being enriched with a rose and a portcullis alternately. The
chapel consists of the nave and two small aisles: the centre is 99 feet
in length, 66 in breadth, and 54 in height, terminating at the east in a
curve, and having five deep recesses of a similar form: the entrance to
these recesses is by open arches, and they add greatly to the relief and
beauty of the building: it is not improbable that they were originally
so many smaller chapels, destined to various uses. The side aisles are
in a just proportion to the centre, with which they communicate by
four arches, turned on gothic pillars; each of them is relieved by four
recesses, a window, with minute and curious ~85~~divisions, running the
whole height of each recess. The upper part of the nave has four windows
on each side, and ten in the eastern extremity, five above and five
below. The whole of the roof of the chapel, including the side aisles
and the curve at the end, is of wrought stone, in the gothic style,
and of exquisite beauty. An altar-tomb erected by Henry, at the cost of
L1000, to receive his last remains, stands in the centre of the chapel.
It is of basaltic stone, ornamented and surrounded with a magnificent
railing of gilt brass. This monument was constructed by Peter
Torregiano, a Florentine artist, and possesses extraordinary merit. Six
devices in bas-relief, and four statues, all of gilt brass, adorn the
tomb.

In addition to these venerable antiquities, which all deserve to be
seen, a variety of figures in wax, and in cases with glazed doors, are
shewn as curiosities to the stranger; but they ought to be removed,
as disgraceful to the grandeur and solemnity of the other parts of the
scene, and as a satire on the national taste, which can scarcely
be excused, when such things are exhibited in a room for children's
amusement.

Every lover of the arts must lament that this beautiful relic of gothic
taste is falling rapidly to decay; notwithstanding, within the last
twenty-four years, the Dean and Chapter of Westminster have expended the
sum of L28,749 in general repairs of the abbey. Parliament, however, has
at last granted the requisite aid, and the sum of L20,000 has been voted
to commence the repairs, which are now going on. It has been estimated
that the necessary repairs of Henry the VIIth's chapel will cost about
L14,800 and the ornamental repairs about L10,400.

The prospect from the western tower of the abbey is more beautiful and
picturesque, though less extensive, than that from St. Paul's. The west
end of the town and its environs, the Banquetting-house at Whitehall,
St. James's park, the gardens of the Queen's palace, the extremity of
Piccadilly and Hyde-park, with the Serpentine River, and the distant
groves of Kensington Gardens, present a varied and magnificent view
towards the west. On the other hand, the bridges of Westminster,
Waterloo, and Blackfriars, with the broad expanse of the Thames, and
Somerset-house on its banks, and St. Paul's towering pile, together with
the light Gothic steeple of St. Dunstan's in the East, present a most
noble and ~86~~ interesting prospect. From this tower the exterior form
of St. Paul's, when the sun falls upon it, is distinctly seen, and here
its exquisite beauty will be more fully comprehended than in any part of
the city, for a sufficient area to take in the entire outline is not to
be found there.