Chimes of Mission Bells

M >> Maria Antonia Field >> Chimes of Mission Bells

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Blessed temples! noble hospices! heroic priests! We are loathe to change
the scene, but winter's storms must come ere the laurel wreath crowns
the glorified brow! Still, we need not leave the "enchanted palace" yet,
vernal loveliness still charms the eyes and summer is just begun.

If it be but for one brief moment let us ruminate the glories, the
wealth, the beauty of mission joys, before the least cruel echoes of
Secularization are heard. The sun of Franciscan and Spanish glory is
still mounting the firmament higher and higher. The sky still wears Our
Lady's blue[2] and no penitential purple has appeared with the departing
rays of sunset, only the royal purple and gold which years before had
made the scene a fairylike setting for the heavenset relief ship to San
Diego and assured the noble enterprise of the exploration and
christianizing of California.

[1] Official title of the Kings of Spain.

[2] Blue and white are the symbolical colors of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Chapter III

More About San Carlos Mission and Monterey

As we have seen in the preceding chapter, Monterey was the capital of
the Spanish Possessions in California, consequently San Carlos Mission
was the headquarters of Junipero Serra. And what was not San Carlos
Mission of Carmelo in the days of her glory! We are in a maze of thought
as to how to begin to tell her story. Of the beauty of the spot where
this mission was built we have already spoken, as well as of how the
golden valley of Carmelo came to be named. And here we may well exclaim
with that dear English Saint of the thirteenth century, Saint Simon
Stock, who invoked the Immaculate Virgin with the following beautiful
lines:

"Carmel's fair flower
Rod blossom laden
Smile on thy dower
Meek Mother--Maiden
None equals thee.
Give us a sign
Thou dost protect us
Mark us for thine
Guide and direct us
Star of the Sea."

A more perfect replica of the country surrounding the shrine of Our Lady
of Mount Carmel in Palestine would be hard to find, and the "Meek
Mother-Maiden" did give many a sign of her protection to her clients in
this new Carmel of the West. And it was at San Carlos Mission of
Carmelo, that the superiors of the different missions convened and gave
accounts of their work and numbers of baptisms etc. to the Father
President. And how glowing are the records of those accounts! Here on
festival days after the religious services were held social gatherings
and entertainment's of the purest yet merriest order. Marriages,
baptisms, all notable events had their share of attention. The
hospitality of the missions, the care and kindness shown to the Indians,
the numerous flocks, harvests and orchards which embellished them under
the wonderful management of the good Fathers, all existed in copious
measure at San Carlos.

The huge, beautiful bells of this mission the chimes of which were heard
clearly in Monterey were cracked during the years when the mission was
neglected but some of the pieces were later recast and as far as known
the present bells of the mission were made from them.

We cannot consider a sketch of this mission however brief, complete,
without giving due credit to the Very Reverend Angelo Casanova, parish
priest of Monterey from 1869 until the time of his death in 1893. This
zealous priest undertook the work of restoring the mission for a portion
of it was in ruins, and to-day there would be but little of San Carlos
to see and admire but for Father Casanova's timely work of restoration,
which he accomplished with some help of friends, but chiefly with his
own private fortune which he inherited. Many a time was Father Casanova
seen assisting the laborers with his own hands. And what a happy day it
was for Monterey when the first Mass was sung in the restored mission
after years of vandalism and neglect! The old statues which had escaped
the ravages of time were replaced in their niches, the sanctuary lamp
was re-lighted for the Sacramental Presence once more enthroned on His
altar and the organ pealed forth the ancient Latin hymns of the Church
once more. Another very significant event of this restoration was that
Father Casanova had the four bodies contained in the vaults of the
mission exhumed and placed on new vaults, built however near the
original spots "on the gospel side of the altar, within the sanctuary."
The four bodies are the remains of Fathers Junipero Serra, Juan Crespi,
Francisco de Lasuen and Julian Lopez. Another good outcome of this event
was that it exploded the utterly unfounded story that a Spanish ship had
carried away the remains of Junipero Serra to Spain. The vestments on
each body were found in a perfect state of preservation at the time this
work was done in 1882.

For years the saintly Serra's body was buried under a pile of debris,
but his "sepulchre has become glorious" in spite of all. And since the
restoration of this mission, the feast of Saint Charles Borromeo, (its
Patron Saint) has again been celebrated here every November the
twenty-fourth, and a relic of Saint Charles which Father Junipero Serra
brought from Spain, is as of old carried in procession. While this is of
course a Catholic festival, reverent visitors of various creeds attend
it. The mission is guarded by a care-taker, living in the premises of
what remains of the old mission orchard.

It was also due to Father Casanova, that Mrs. Leland Stanford donated,
in 1890, the Serra Monument[3] which crowns a slope just above the spot
where this wonderful missionary said his first Mass in Monterey.

We cannot give sufficient credit to Reverend Raymond Mestres, the
present parish priest of Monterey, and a Spaniard from the Province of
Catalonia, like Junipero Serra and many of the early missionaries. Father
Mestres has given time, energy and noble efforts unstintingly to
perpetuate the memory of Junipero Serra and to more fully restore not
only San Carlos Mission and San Carlos Church, but is encouraging a
movement to restore if possible all the California Missions according
to their traditional and historical plans; may his great enterprise be
blessed with all the radiance of crowning success!

We will have ample reason to speak more of Father Mestres' good work
elsewhere in this sketch, hence we will pass into Monterey itself.
Monterey was named after the Spanish Viceroy of Mexico, who at the time
of her discovery, was the Count of Monterey. As we have many times noted
this city was of royal birth. Unlike any of the other Presidios, her
Presidio was el Presidio Real, the chapel attached to it la Capilla
Real, and the ships which sailed the blue waters of her crescent bay
were the ships of the Royal Navy of Spain. No mission town was without
its glories, its fascinating history or delightful surroundings, but
Monterey was like a fair empress of them all. Yet no jealousy or
feelings of rivalry were felt for Monterey by her sister towns, nor was
her right to the sceptre ever contested. From the time that Sebastian
Vizcaino placed her on his map in 1602 and glowingly described her
beautiful harbor, noble forests and majestic hills, Spain focused her
attention on Monterey, and when her Port was at last found by Portola,
and the stout old ship San Antonio under the command of Captain Juan
Perez entered her harbor on May 31st, 1770, without any discussion or
preamble she was made the capital of New Spain.

The news of her discovery and of Junipero Serra celebrating Mass on her
shores were sent with all possible haste to the Viceroy of the Spanish
possessions in Mexico and to good Don Jose Galvez, also a complete
statement of her discovery was drawn up and sent to the Court of Spain.
And how were these news received? Solemn masses of thanksgiving were
celebrated in some of the Spanish cathedrals, attended by many of the
highest religious, civil and military authorities, while congratulations
from every side poured into King Carlos and his Viceroy. And all this
exultation over the discovery of the lovely spot we all know and love so
well! Monterey, like a "pearl of great price" had been hard to find, but
like a "pearl of great price" was worth the quest. Beautiful Monterey
with her shores decked with Vizcainos Cross since 1602, Monterey with
her bay blue like a turquoise, matching the azure of heaven, Monterey
with her forests and flowers, with her Valley of Carmelo and glorious
sunsets, adding to natures charms, her historical and sacred atmosphere,
her landmarks and the improvements of man. No wonder thousands yearly
throng this gifted spot of God's earth!

As may be needless to say, Monterey, became the center of the social
life, beauty and culture of the mission towns. From Monterey,
inspiration flowed as from a fountain head. And even to this day she is
irresistible. Even to this day, in spite of the many sad scenes and
oblivious years which have stamped their trace upon her loveliness and
impaired her regal splendor, her charm is told by her landmarks and
crowned by her natural fortress of hills, her forests and flower robed
meadows, and lulled at evening by the murmur of the iridescent waters of
her bay reflecting the sunset splendors of the sky.

About 1810 Monterey was ravaged by buccaneers under Blutcher, who was
such a terror to many sea-port towns, these pirates sailed up the Pacific
Coast, and appeared in Monterey Bay in four large vessels arriving at
midnight. Before they could be driven out of the town they set fire to
some of the Spanish Presidio homes and carried away precious jewels and
silver belonging to the Spanish ladies, and provisions from the garrison.

The former Capilla Real de San Carlos is now the parish church of
Monterey, guarding like a fond mother all that remains of the massive
silver altar vessels and candelabras, paintings, statues, vestments,
manuscripts and archives of the pioneer missionaries of this mission.

Among the modern attractions of Monterey we must not fail to mention
Hotel Del Monte built and owned by the Pacific Improvement Company, and
the many beautiful drives constructed by the same, company. Mr. Frank
Powers was the founder of the flourishing settlement of
Carmel-by-the-Sea, a few minutes walk from San Carlos Mission and a
favorite resort of artists and literateurs. These with many others have
been no small contributors to the old Capital. Thus while we deplore
years of vandalism, and the thousands who have joined the "careless
throng" we can always turn to the pleasing contrast of sympathizers and
friends who are always, willing to give "honor to whom honor is due,"
and in doing so have spared neither purse nor efforts in aiding those
who under difficulties have guarded the flame of tradition and love of
the splendid past with its bright galaxy of "heroes, martyrs, saints."
True, the glowing embers often smouldered beneath a debris of neglect
and even harsh misrepresentation but were not and could not be
extinguished. And now faithful hearts may beat fast with holy joy for
the feeble light fanned by loving zephyrs has burst into a glowing
flame destined to diffuse its love and influence to all, regardless
of creed, race or station.

[3] The Very Reverend Angelo Casanova selected the writer of this sketch
and her brother, then little children to unveil this monument.

Chapter IV

California Under Spanish Rule

With the landing of Serra and Portola at San Diego in 1769, began the
Spanish period of California. The chief events of this period are in a
pith, the following: The establishment of the missions, the
christianizing of the Indians and the exploration and colonization of
California. It is from the Spanish period that the history and standing
of California date. The ten Spanish Governors of California as well as
the officers of the Army and Navy were men of honor and ability, and the
record left by the Spanish settlers is one of which any country might be
proud. During the Spanish period the geographical lines of California
were settled and her harbors surveyed[4]. It was during this period that
most of the present cities of California were founded, Spain following
the plan of building the towns around the missions. The first Governor,
Don Gaspar de Portola, was a great and good man as well as a brilliant
officer, gentle and reasonable in every respect, he was beloved by all;
to him California owes the discovery of San Francisco Bay, and the great
co-operation he gave to Junipero Serra, as well as his reverent esteem
for this saintly man has endeared his memory to every true Californian,
and immortalized his name in Spain. After a period of two years in
office Portola went to Mexico, then under Spanish rule, and from there
returned to Spain.

Portola was succeeded by Gov. Felipe de Barri, who after three years was
removed from office on account of infringing on the rights of the
missionaries and siding with Captain Rivera Y. Moncada who was a
somewhat arrogant man, who also on several occasions infringed on the
rights of the missionaries; but the faults of the latter have been very
exaggerated by some historians, namely, some declare that he was
ex-communicated from the church on account of insolence to the
missionaries, whereas there is no record of such a fact. Excepting their
officiousness and arrogance, Barri and Rivera were moral and able men.

Barri was succeeded by Felipe de Neve, a statesman, scholar and worthy
governor who at once declared himself the friend and protector of the
missionaries. It was Governor de Neve who drew up California's first
code of legislation dated from the "Royal Presidio of San Carlos at
Monterey" in June 1779. This code known as the "Reglamento" is regarded
by capable judges as a most remarkable and valuable document. It was
also Governor de Neve who founded the present city of Los Angeles, the
original name of which was Neustra Senora de los Angeles, later
shortened into Los Angeles. The towns of San Jose and Santa Clara also
owe their foundation to de Neve, who selected the location of these
cities around the mission sites. After eight years of office de Neve was
marked for higher honors, and was succeeded by Governor Pedro Fages.

Governor Fages was a good and energetic man, but better fitted for the
army than for the state; he was noted for his lofty principals of
morality. Fages resigned his office and returned to Spain; he was not a
tactful ruler, but like many others his name has suffered at the hands
of unscrupulous writers. Fages was succeeded in 1790 by Governor Jose
Antonio Romeu, a bright and able but very sickly man. Dr. Pablo Soler
the excellent physician and surgeon of the Province of California was
unable to help him; and Romeu died in Monterey in less than two years of
office.

Jose de Arrillaga was the sixth governor. This governor was a finished
general, and placed the presidios of California on a solid basis; he was
painstaking and careful of detail. He resigned on account of private
business affairs but later returned as he was reappointed governor of
California.

The seventh governor was Diego de Borica. Around this Governor cluster
many beautiful pages of Spanish history in California; his was a
character as gentle, religious and home-loving as he was scholarly and
tactful. It was under Borica's administration that the boundary lines of
Upper and Lower California were clearly defined. Borica, however, was
not a man who courted public life or honors, and resigned his office,
returning to Spain with his charming wife and daughter who always longed
for their mother country.

Before leaving Borica did a good service to Spain and California in
recommending the reappointment of Jose Joaquin Arrillaga. Arrillaga
continued to organize strong military defenses for California. He served
as Spanish Governor of California fourteen years, and first of all
declared himself on all occasions "a loyal son of the Church." He died
at Mission Soledad on July 25, 1813, and was buried there. The only
Spanish Governor to be buried in California.

The ninth Spanish Governor was Jose Dario Arguello, who was in office
one year, the interval between the death of Arrillaga and the advent of
Pablo Vicente de Sola the last Spanish Governor of California.

When Governor Sola took office in 1814, California had already bloomed
into a garden of beautiful men and women, many of them from the mother
country, others their children born in this distant province of Castile.
Also many Yankee, Russian and English trading ships came to California
then, and the Spanish presidios were the scenes of many brilliant dances
and entertainment's. These foreign vessels were always welcome; while
the Governors were careful that the power of Spain was not infringed
upon, perfect courtesy and friendliness was always maintained by both
Spaniards and visitors. Thus when Governor Sola arrived to take his
office he was given a royal welcome. Of course, it was in Monterey that
every governor took up his residence (at the Royal Presidio) and their
first act was to attend Solemn High Mass at the Royal Chapel of San
Carlos of Monterey. Sola was no exception to the rule; amid salutes from
the cannon of the Presidio and the cheers of loyal subjects, by the
Catalonian cavalry, and their officers in their gorgeous velvet
uniforms, gold swords and plumed hats, Sola proceeded to the Royal
Chapel where the Franciscan Fathers awaited him in their priestly
vestments. Three days of carnival followed, but on the second day
Governor Sola withdrew from the festivities, made the Stations of the
Cross[5] which the fathers had erected between Monterey and Carmelo, and
on reaching San Carlos of Carmelo was shown to the tombs of Junipero
Serra, Juan Crespi and Francisco de Laseun. Here the Governor knelt and
remained long in prayer.

In California Sola found a pleasing contrast from the conditions of
affairs he had seen during his sojourn in Mexico. In that country clouds
of revolt against Spanish rule were rapidly gathering. California he
found intensely loyal to the Crown. The neophytes and converted Indians
greatly touched his generous soul, and the beauty of the country
delighted him. Sola was in office eight years; his work was well done,
and if California was lost to Spain under his administration, no less
credit can be given to his ability and high principals of honor. Many
times did Sola quell disturbances from revolutionary vessels which
landed in Monterey from Mexico, and several attacks from pirates, and
many a noble act is recorded of this loyal governor as well as of the no
less loyal Spanish subjects of the Province. If the Mexican Government
supplanted Spanish rule and "laid desolate" much of the work done by
this brilliant period of California, we repeat it was due to no
treachery or cowardice of Sola and his compatriots as we shall see
elsewhere in this sketch. Spain came into possession of California with
honor, maintained it with honor, and after her three-fold honorable
policy of exploration, colonization and christianizing of its heathen
natives, left it with honor, but her monuments remained. If a few
political troubles and abuses existed, they pale before the light of the
myriad of great deeds and purposes, and where is the country or people
who are utterly flawless individually? No cruelties or uncleanness can
ever be proven against Spain or her people here. Spanish society and
refinement was the first which California saw; under Spain were
thousands of Indians rescued from savagery, and under Spain was
California made known to the world, as well as discovered. Under Spain
too were the first land grants made to her subjects in California.

Some historians and casual observers are inclined to blame Spain for not
having lent more aid to her loyal California colonies and enabled her
presidios to have more and better fortifications. But let us examine
these points more coolly. First of all this province was far away from
the mother country, means of travel and communication were then far
different from what they are now, and Spain was also busy with political
troubles at home; she had always sent her most representative men as
governors and officers, her settlers were no less worthy, most of them
coming here with no "empty purse" as adventurers, but were men of
education and standing in their country. The galaxy of saintly
missionaries is superfluous to mention, so above are they of the least
sting of reproach, and lastly so clean are the pages of Spanish history
in California that no serious student of whatever race or creed he or
she may be, can but deplore the calumnies that have at times been hurled
at this golden period of California history. It was from the Spanish
period of California that the present capital of the state dates having
been named Santisimo Sacramento (Most Holy Sacrament) in honor of the
Eucharistic Presence of the Altar. Thus we see the vein of piety of the
Spanish settlers who gave names of religious significance to so many of
the towns they founded, and even to their land grants. In fine these
sterling men were worthy compatriots of those giant men and women which
have appeared at different times in Spain. We refer to Saints, Ignatius
of Loyola, Francis Xavier, Dominic, Theresa of Jesus and a myriad
others, also to the fair array of kings and queens, poets, artists,
explorers, whose illustrious names would fill volumes.

When treading El Camino Real and kneeling by the sacred tombs of
Junipero Serra and his hero band of soul-conquerors we may well recall
that passage of the beautiful Hymn of the Knights of Columbus.

"Brothers we are treading
Where the saints have trod."

[4] Alberto de Cordoba, an excellent engineer, surveyed the Harbor of
San Francisco in 1813, at the request of Governor Borica.

[5] A Catholic devotion in honor of Our Saviour's Passion.

Chapter V

California Passes From Spanish to Mexican Rule, Secularization of the
Missions

Amidst the beauty and glory of Spain's dominion in California, while the
gold emblazoned banners of Castile and Leon floated proudly under azure
skies, while the Spanish governors, officers and colonists were doing
honor and credit to their ancient race, and the saintly missionaries
were working marvels for the souls and bodies of the aborigines of the
land, while Spain was thus lending "her beauty and her chivalry" to
California; Mexico, forgetting her old debt to Spain, when she explored
her then heathen shores, had revolted against Spanish rule and set up an
empire of her own, making Augustin Iturbide, a man of half Indian blood
her Emperor. Immediately Mexico claimed California, as well as Texas,
Arizona and New Mexico as a portion of her empire, although the people
of California, with the exception of a handful of Mexicans, had never
shown the least desire of change of government, for the greatest number
of her settlers were Spaniards or their children who were intensely
loyal to the Crown of Spain. Here we will add that no person who held
any office of importance was any other than a Spaniard, or of purely
Spanish blood or parentage, hence missionaries, bishops, army and navy
officers, surgeons, etc. were all "children of Spain," the highest
decoration that a mixed blood could attain in the Spanish army of
California or of Mexico was that of Corporal or Sergeant. But when
Mexico gained her independence all these corporals and sergeants were
suddenly made generals by their country, Mexico; and here was clearly
seen "who was who" for all mixed bloods as well as those of purely
Indian birth, both in Mexico and California raffled around their
standard, the new Mexican flag; in this number we will only except many
of the Christian Indians, in California, who clung piteously to the
missions, and who had more of their share of suffering. This state of
affairs enabled the new Mexican authorities, exultant over their victory
in the gain of their independence, to send several war vessels to
Monterey late in 1822 and demand of Governor Sola, the surrender of
California in the name of Emperor Augustin Iturbide. As we have already
seen, nowhere in Spain's New World possessions was loyalty to the mother
country more intense than in California, and the people, army and navy
were loud in their demonstrations of opposition, and expressions of
willingness were offered to the governor to fight the intrusion of
Mexico to the end. But the comparative handful of soldiers of the
various garrisons, as well as the few ships which the Spanish could
muster in California were no match to the overwhelming forces from
Mexico, and Governor Sola considered it no cowardly act but rather his
conscience-bound duty to prevent a useless carnage, wisely preferring an
honorable surrender under the circumstances. The prudence of this
decision was soon seen in a clearer light by the people. It was thus
that the grand old flag of Spain was hurled from her state fifty-three
years after she had been hoisted amid the blessing of Junipero Serra,
the salutes of her proud ships and the loyal acclamations of Portola and
her other gallant sons. Now Spanish rule was virtually ended in
California, but we repeat, not dishonorably. Spain's, work was well
done, her chief purpose gained, namely, the exploration and
christianizing of California.

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