Chimes of Mission Bells
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Maria Antonia Field >> Chimes of Mission Bells
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Junipero Serra then repaired to the summit of the Presidio Hill and with
arms extended, prayed as if in ecstasy from sunrise until sunset,
"storming the heavens" that the relief ship might come, and the
conversion of the heathen of California be realized. O unquestionable
miracle! "More things are wrought by prayer, than this world ever
dreamed of!" As the last rays of sun kissed his venerable brow, from out
the gold and purple horizon, he sighted the top-most point of a mast,
which while he was still "pouring his soul" no longer in supplication
but in thanksgiving, grew into the unmistakable figure of the long
expected ship. But for that "one more day" what would California be now?
No converted Indians, no monumental missions, no exploration and
colonization no civilization! The ship had been delayed on account of
the rough voyage it encountered. But now relief, contentment, renewed
hope, renewed courage; and the Mission of San Diego was but the first of
the twenty-one which were to strew El Camino Real (the Royal Road,
literally, commonly called the King's Highway) of California. And
chivalrous Portola, filled with even greater reverence for the humble
priest Junipero Serra, whom his lofty soul had always appreciated, once
more gathered his forces, and started anew in search of Monterey.
Junipero Serra left the Mission of San Diego in charge of two of the
good fathers and a small garrison as guards, and set out with Portola on
his second expedition; and it was Serra whose very presence seemed to
draw the blessings of heaven, who pointed out to the Governor the error
on Vizcaino's map which caused him to miss the Port of Monterey.
This expedition was also divided into two parts, one to go overland the
other by sea. Father Serra went with the sea party which sailed on the
Paqueboat San Antonio. A number of Spanish dragoons from the fair
province of Catalonia, muleteers, and some of the convert Indians
recruited from the mission of La Paz were in the overland party.
On May 24th, 1770, the expedition reached Point Pinos on the Coast of
Monterey; after going south about six miles and encamping on a
picturesque spot on the shores of the Bay, the missionaries raised an
altar and Junipero Serra celebrated the first Mass on the shores of
Monterey on June 3rd, 1770. It is more than likely that the Carmelite
fathers who came here with Vizcaino had done so one hundred and sixty
eight years before, but as there is no official record of the fact, the
Mass celebrated on the improvised altar under the oak (which is
preserved in the premises of San Carlos Church, Monterey), is recorded
as the first. Mass over, Junipero Serra and Gaspar de Portola exhorted
the Spanish soldiers to hold to the traditional faith and purity of the
Spanish race, and to kindness to the natives, calling them "weaker
brethren who should be christianized, not debauched." Then Junipero
Serra planted a Mission Cross and blessed the Spanish flag which Portola
hoisted, taking possession of the land in the name of "His Most Catholic
Majesty King Carlos III, by right of discovery."[1] Junipero Serra also
blessed the sea and land.
As Monterey was from the first established as the civil, military and
religious headquarters of the Spanish kingdom in California, her
Presidio was known as el Presidio Real (the Royal Presidio), and the
present parish church of Monterey, which was built as a chapel for the
Presidio was la Capilla Real de San Carlos (the Royal Chapel of Saint
Charles).
Junipero Serra found the Indians of Monterey and the surrounding country
very docile, while the Indians from Lower California soon learned their
dialect and acted as interpreters of the missionaries. The Cross which
Vizcaino had planted in 1602 was found decked with skins and shells. On
inquiry the Missionaries were told by the Indians that they had often
seen mysterious rays of light around it, and thinking that some god was
angry they were trying to propitiate him by means of those offerings.
As we have already noted Junipero Serra said his first, Mass in Monterey
on June 3rd, 1770, and two years later he recorded his first baptism.
From that date the Indians would come in dozens to present themselves
for instruction. Then the marvels that had attended Junipero Serra at
Sierra Gorda in Mexico, were repeated in Monterey. The naked savages
were clothed, many of them were beginning to learn Spanish and to sing
the Latin responses of the Mass and hymns both in Spanish and Latin,
playing such musical instruments as the cymbal and triangle, keeping
perfect time to every beat. The flocks and cattle were increasing and
the harvest fields were golden with grain. While some of the Indians
were taught to till the soil others were herdsmen, and some were taught
to work as artisans. Nearly fifty trades were taught the California
Indians under the supervision of the Missionaries. In 1771 Junipero
Serra founded the San Carlos Mission in the most entrancing location of
the Carmelo Valley that the nature loving Serra could have chosen; the
forests of oak, pine and cypress for which Monterey is noted to this
day, stretch with even greater beauty as we pierce farther into the
interior, while the fertility of the land drained by the beautiful
Carmelo River together with the commanding position of the spot, made
the site of the Mission ideal. And this Mission of the Carmelo Valley of
Monterey, was Junipero Serra's headquarters, here he lies buried, and
here was the center of that unequalled hospitality and pure society for
which every mission was noted. The Spanish Government made large grants
of land to the missions, and under the labor, care and excellent methods
of the missionaries, they became powerful and wealthy institutions, the
pride and blessing of New Spain. Fine stock, teeming grain fields and
luscious orchards graced every mission, and Mission San Carlos was no
exception, indeed it was one of the most prosperous and beautiful.
Fathers from the Mission at Carmelo, attended the Royal Chapel of San
Carlos in Monterey and continued to do so until long after the last Act
of Secularization in 1835 had been passed by the Mexican Government, and
San Carlos of Carmelo was left desolate with no priest to guard her own
altar light. But of this we shall, alas, have but too much reason to
speak later. Junipero Serra did not stop his arduous work by founding
beautiful San Carlos of Carmelo and consecrating the Royal Chapel of
Monterey; he was to christianize all California, for all California had
now been added to the Crown of Castile and Leon. Spain followed in
California the same policy which has distinguished her in her other
possessions such as Cuba, the Philippines and other colonies, steeped in
idolatry until the Spanish Missionary, whose zeal is proverbial, wrested
their countless inhabitants from the cymmerian gloom of paganism. Thus
as soon as San Carlos Mission was founded, the glorious march of El
Camino Real continued.
Mission San Antonio de Padua, the third mission, was established in July
1, 1771. The beauty of the spot and wonderful eagerness of the Indians
to receive baptism greatly touched Junipero Serra and the other two
Franciscan Fathers who accompanied him as well as some of the soldiers
who were in the party. To-day Mission San Antonio is almost in ruins,
but its very ruins are piles which speak of mystic beauty, and in the
days of mission glory San Antonio was one of the fairest of the
missions.
On returning to Carmelo, Junipero Serra filled the other missionaries
with joy over this latest conquest of souls, and sent messengers to
Fathers Somera and Cambon whom he had left in charge of the Mission at
San Diego, to establish a mission in southern California, which they
would name San Gabriel. The two Fathers, with ten soldiers as guards,
started a march northward until they came to the present sight of San
Gabriel, which they saw immediately was a good location for a mission,
particularly as a beautiful stream flowed through the Valley, and
wherever possible the Fathers chose a spot where there was water for the
mission orchards and gardens.
Here we may add that the Fathers had a system of irrigation by means of
ditches, traces of which may be seen to this day in the sites where
stood many of the old mission orchards. The fruits from these good
Fathers gardens were the fairest and most luscious that California has
ever seen, none of our lovely grapes compare with theirs, and their
olives were larger and better than any of which California boasts
to-day.
Although not deviating from our subject we have wandered from the thread
of our story in the foundation of Mission San Gabriel. One incident
contained in the records of this Mission may hardly be passed over in
silence. The good Franciscans and their brave little bodyguard found the
Indians in a very hostile mood, still they blessed a Mission Cross and
planted it; but the Indians increasing their threatening attitude, the
Fathers unfurled a large white banner bearing the image of the Blessed
Virgin Mary, placing the side of the banner with the image in full view
of the heathens. Priests and soldiers then knelt and implored the
intercession of the Redeemer's Immaculate Mother for their safety and
for the conversion of the Indians to the Faith of her Divine Son.
Immediately came the answer from Heaven! The Indians not only abandoned
every sign of hostility, but came forward towards the Fathers with every
sign of sincere submissiveness, and after due instruction were baptized.
For it must be remembered that the Church does not, and cannot force her
belief on anyone who does not willingly accept it; the poor savage is no
exception; instruction, kindness, prayers may always be employed, no
more. As in many cases the nature of the Indian was too elementary to be
moved at first by the lessons and exhortations of suffering and
self-denial of Our Saviour, and the bridling of the human passions; in
many instances the Fathers would first win the Indians' confidence by
giving them blankets, beads and such things as attracted them, then by
degrees unfolded the tenets of religion and mysteries of faith, to which
in most cases these erstwhile savages clung with firmness and gave many
edifying signs of true and sincere christianity. A band of white beads
around the head distinguished the christian Indians from the pagan.
The flocks, vineyards and orchards of Mission San Gabriel, as well as
the skill of its Indians, in time became famous throughout California,
and it was from here that Governor Felipe de Neve, third Governor of
California, started in 1781 with several of the Fathers and a company of
soldiers to found the present city of Los Angeles.
The fifth Mission, San Luis Obispo, was founded on September 1, 1772, by
Junipero Serra in person; the saintly Father making a pilgrimage there
for that purpose. Thus in the space of three years, five missions were
founded. A royal record of the zeal of the missionaries and of the
humanity of the Spanish Government and Authorities.
In 1774 the Spanish Viceroy of Mexico informed Junipero Serra that he
intended to establish a presidio in San Francisco "for the further
extension of Spanish and Christian power." Junipero Serra, on receipt of
this letter, selected Fathers Palou and Cambon to accompany the
soldiers, and Lieutenant Juan de Ayala was ordered with his ship
stationed at Monterey to further explore the San Francisco Bay; Juan de
Anza, another brilliant officer, was entrusted with the establishment of
the new presidio; the site he chose being the identical one on which the
Presidio of San Francisco stands today. Lieutenant Juan de Ayala of the
Royal Navy of Spain, was the first to steer a ship through the Golden
Gate, and a strange coincidence was that his ship was the San Carlos
which had come to San Diego with a portion of the first Spanish pioneers
in 1769. With Lieutenant Ayala was Father Vincente de Santa Maria who,
with Fathers Palou and Cambon, planted a Mission Cross and founded
Mission Nuestra Senora de los Dolores, which has withstood so many
ravages of time and change, of man and elements.
The seventh Mission was San Juan Capistrano, founded November 1, 1776,
by Father Lasuen. This Mission was also a very flourishing Mission, the
Indians were laborers in its construction, which lasted nearly fourteen
years.
Mission Santa Clara was the eighth to be established. It was founded on
January 12, 1777. The original lines of this once beautiful Mission are
almost entirely changed but like all its sister missions it still
retains much of its dear old atmosphere, and can boast of the tomb of
Father Magin Catala who died there in 1836 "in the odor of sanctity."
Mission Santa Clara was founded by Father Tomas de la Pena y Saradia;
and its history is fascinating and romantic. The Mission Cross which
Father de la Pena y Saradia planted here, is still standing.
The ninth Mission was San Buenaventura, founded also by Junipero Serra
in person, in company with Governor Felipe de Neve, on Easter Sunday of
March 31, 1783.
From San Buenaventura, Junipero Serra and Governor de Neve marched to
what is now Santa Barbara. Here the Indians were numerous and more
intelligent than any in California, where the Indians were far denser
than either the Incas of South America or the Aztecs of Mexico. Delays,
caused by military differences, retarded the foundation of Santa Barbara
Mission, which would have been the tenth, but Junipero Serra planted a
Mission Cross and selected the site on which it was destined to be
founded four years after his death. From here Serra returned to Carmelo;
his journeys from one Mission to another being always on foot.
And here we must pause: We have come in our narrative to that momentous
year in the history, not only of the missions, but of California. The
year when. Junipero Serra, true priest of God, christianizer, civilizer,
wonderful among wonderful pioneers, or as Governor Gaspar de Portola had
spoken of him years before, "the humblest, bravest man of God I ever
knew," had done his work! Junipero Serra was ready for his throne in
Heaven, his crown awaited him, his rough Franciscan habit was to be
glorified. We have briefly glanced at his chief characteristics from his
boyhood in historic Spain, and must have gauged the measure of his
untiring and tried virtue from the time he landed in Mexico and San
Diego, on through the years he labored as the Apostle of California; to
these let us add just a few of the private practices of mortification
which he imposed on his innocent flesh, notwithstanding his age, his
physical infirmities, extraordinary labors and hardships in a new, half
explored country. Virtually they sound like a passage from the lives of
the Saints. His journeys were always on foot, although the old sore on
his leg remained like an instrument of torture throughout his life,
nothing being able to help him. El Camino Real, from San Francisco to
Monterey and from Monterey to San Diego, with its rough roads, was as
familiar to him who walked it with so much difficulty as it is to us who
enjoy it by comfortable travel on the railroad or pleasurable motor
trips; his fasts were austere and frequent, wine he never used, the
discipline was no stranger to him, a bed was not among his possessions,
on the bare floor or bench at most he would rest his sore missionary
body; yet he never imposed unnecessary penance on anyone, he was hard
only on himself, he was gentle and affectionate to a marked degree, his
faith, trust in Providence, humility and charity, were heroic. Of his
seventy-four years of life, fifty-four he had been a Franciscan Priest
and thirty-five he had devoted to missionary work, of which nine were
spent in Mexico and fourteen in California. His wonderful eloquence and
magnetic power for preaching which had won him honors in the Old World
even as a newly ordained priest, he had used and adapted for the
instruction of thousands of heathens of the New World; and now that
christianity and civilization were beginning to bud with springtime
loveliness like the Castilian roses he had planted in some of the
mission gardens, while the sun of Spanish glory was still in the
ascendency and no threatening omens of the fall of Spanish or Franciscan
power, or nightmares of the Acts of Secularization disturbed the
cloudless skies, while the Presidio Real of Monterey bore the arms of
the Spanish King and the Capilla Real do San Carlos was thronged with
gallant officers and brave men of the Royal Army and Navy of Castile and
Leon, and Our Lady seemed to smile blessings on her Valley of Carmelo,
before the beauteous dream, nay, realization of noble ambitions, had
vanished like a fair sun, God called His faithful Servant unto Himself,
in his cell at his beloved San Carlos Mission about 2:30 P. M. on August
28, 1784, according to the entry of Father Francisco Palou, in the
archives of San Carlos Mission, preserved in San Carlos Church of
Monterey. And what a day this was! The archives here are full of
touching detail. Solemn salutes were fired from the ships stationed in
the Harbor of Monterey, and the grief of the people was inexpressible.
The Indians were inconsolable. The officers of the Royal Navy claimed
his sandals as a precious keepsake, and the Fathers could not restrain
the people from cutting pieces of his habit to carry away as souvenirs;
the Indians claimed his Franciscan cord and many cut locks of his silver
hair; his corpse had to be dressed twice on account of this pious
proceeding. In a plain redwood coffin his precious remains were laid in
a vault "on the gospel side of the altar within the sanctuary of San
Carlos Mission." O! holy grave, how many changes thou hast seen! O happy
Serra, from the dazzling splendors of God's light how often thou must
have prayed for thy work, thy people, thy neophytes! In God's
inscrutable Providence the good are ofttimes permitted to suffer, but
the same All Wise Hand can brush away with a single stroke, the wrong
done to His own, and His time seems near!
We will now resume the story of the foundation of the missions, for we
really stopped at the ninth. Junipero Serra's life-long friend, Father
Palou was chosen temporary President of the Missions, for within a year
he retired to the Franciscan College of San Fernando, where he gave most
of his time to writing, and to him we are indebted for a complete and
accurate biography of Junipero Serra. After Father Palou's resignation,
Father Francisco de Lasuen was appointed Father President of the
Missions. Father Lasuen was an arduous laborer and able priest of the
original heroic band of missionaries, and his first act was to establish
Mission Santa Barbara, where Junipero Serra had planted a Mission Cross
nearly four years previous. This was accomplished on December 4, 1787,
and of the twenty-one missions which were spoliated in later years,
Santa Barbara was the only one which tyrannical laws could never
dispossess of its lawful owners, hence to this day the Sons of Saint
Francis are there to guard the "altar light."
From Santa Barbara, Father Lasuen traveled north to Lompoc, and founded
Mission La Purisima Concepcion on December 8, 1787.
Mission de Nuestra Senora de in Soledad was founded in October of 1791.
The last Act of Secularization in 1835 fell very heavily on this lovely
Mission of which scarcely a trace remains today. This mission was noted
for its fine stock and luxuriant pastures.
On Christmas day of 1791 was founded the Mission of Santa Cruz. This
Mission never rivaled the other missions in wealth, but in later years
it was honored with a martyr. Here is the authentic story of Father
Quintana, whose martyr's death occurred here as late as 1817. Father
Quintana was a holy and zealous priest of this mission, who had carried
on the work of the conversion of the Indians most of whom were already
christian, but a small portion still remained heathen, and these were
very hostile. As was later discovered, while the good priest was reading
his breviary in his office, some of these hostile Indians entered, and
most cruelly murdered him, then taking his body into the mission orchard
placed it against a capulin tree (a tree much resembling the cherry tree
in fruit and form). On thus discovering the corpse the other Fathers
immediately sent a message to the surgeon of the Royal Presidio of
Monterey, who at the time was Don Manuel Quixano (step-father of the
writer's great grandmother). After holding an autopsy on the martyred
body, Dr. Quixano found that the saintly Father had been horribly and
cruelly murdered. The details are preserved in the Santa Cruz Mission
archives, but are not given to the public. The capulin tree which the
Indians made use of to make it appear that the Father's death was a
natural one, was at the time in full bloom, and in a few hours became a
dry lifeless trunk. A remarkable act of Providence indeed!
The fourteenth and fifteenth missions established were Mission San Jose
and beautiful Mission San Juan Bautista, founded respectively on June
11th and June 24th of the year 1797.
We have generously used words denoting beauty and prosperity in
describing the missions, but no less can be said of these mighty and
bountiful institutions, who, even in their regal ruins are California's
chief attraction to this day.
The sixteenth mission was San Miguel, founded by Fathers Francisco de
Lasuen and Buenaventura Sitjar, with very impressive and elaborate
ceremonials, on July 25th, 1797. The brilliant frescoing of this mission
was done in 1824 by the writer's great grandfather, Esteban Munras, a
Spaniard from Barcelona, who had studied art in his native city, and who
was intimately connected with the early missionaries, especially those
of Monterey, where he resided. Esteban Munras did the frescoing of San
Miguel Mission at the request of Father Juan Cabot, also a native of
Barcelona. Thus we see the undaunted steadfastness of these early
missionaries who, although California had already passed from Spanish to
Mexican rule, and mission power was beginning to wane, still were
zealous for the greater adornment of God's holy temples.
On September 8, 1797, Mission San Fernando, Rey de Espana was founded.
In June of the following year San Luis, Rey de Francia, fifty-four
Indian children being baptized on the day of its foundation. It was in
the patio (court yard) of this mission that the first pepper tree in
California was planted by Father Antonio Peyri.
On September 17, 1804, beautiful Santa Ynez Mission was founded. Here
Father Arroyo, a brilliant scholar, prepared a working grammar of the
language of the Indians of the San Juan region. In December, 1817, San
Rafael was founded, and made a splendid record of conversions. Not a
trace of this mission remains today.
The last mission was San Francisco Solano within the city limits of the
present town of Sonoma, and was founded as late as 1823, thus again is
shown the wonderful courage and zeal of the missionaries in the face of
obstacles, for at this date as we have already noted Spanish Mission
power had begun to wane, and while Mexico was unable to wipe out
entirely Spanish rule and influence for many years, still she had
already claimed California as her own. Many wealthy Russian traders
lived in the country about Sonoma, who showed themselves extremely
friendly to the missionaries, assisted at the ceremonies of the founding
of the mission and made generous contributions for its adornment.
And now our march of El Camino Real is ended; but let us take another
look at mission life. The plan of the missions was most wonderful,
situated in the most beautiful spots, the journey of one day from one
another, and the seats of learning and well earned prosperity in
California; their architecture was the best imitation of the Spanish
Gothic style which the Spanish laborers could build with the tools and
materials which were then possible to have in the New World. The only
share the Indians had in the building of the missions was in assisting
to carry beams, stone, making the beautiful red tiles found in every
mission roof, and the like, but the actual construction was done by
Spanish workmen under the supervision of the Fathers.
Besides the church proper, the missions consisted of groups of buildings
set aside for converted Indians and their families, a storehouse, a
guardhouse, a monastery and spacious quarters for guests. For at a
mission not only friends of the Fathers and persons of standing, but
every wayfarer whoever he might be "found warmth and plenty" as long as
he chose to remain under their blessed shelter. And so great was mission
hospitality that a pile of silver was laid in the bedroom of a guest to
be taken by him or left as he saw fit; of course no well bred guest who
was not in need would impose on the holy Fathers' generosity, but it was
their delicate way of assisting an unfortunate pilgrim who might be in
need. The missions too, were the centers of important gatherings and
peaceful rendezvous of persons of social standing, even after the first
two Acts of Secularization had been passed in after years. But these
noble entertainment's, wealth of luscious fruits, golden sheaves,
luxuriant pastures and fleecy lambs, were as the least gifts of these
matchless institutions, for we can never exaggerate the marvels wrought
for the betterment of the heathen natives, or the fairer fruits of the
countless heroic virtues practiced within these enclosures. The Indians
clung to the Fathers like little children to their parents, and from the
vices of paganism, under a healthy and kind rule drawn for them by the
wise Fathers, christian virtues took a deep root in at least a great
many of these poor "children of the soil" and so great was the care
exercised by the Fathers that nightly they would make a round of the
rooms allotted to every christian and neophyte Indian family to see that
order and decency reigned in each group; for we must remember these
souls were but recently rescued from the dark sins of heathenism.
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