Chimes of Mission Bells

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Produced by David Schwan

Chimes of Mission Bells

An Historical Sketch of California and Her Missions

By
Maria Antonia Field

To the Revered Memory of
Junipero Serra

And of
My Great Grandparents
Esteban and Catalina Munras

This Book Is
Affectionately Dedicated

Acknowledgment of Gratitude

In producing this book I wish to thank my Mother, who wrote for me in
modern notation the music of the hymns of the Mission Fathers which are
contained in this work, and gave me much welcome information; also Rev.
Raymond M. Mestres, my zealous parish Priest, successor and compatriot
of Junipero Serra and the Mission Padres, for valuable data, and for
allowing me access to the early archives of San Carlos Mission and of
the Mission Church of Monterey.

Maria Antonia Field
Monterey, California, June 1, 1914

Contents

Translation of the Names of the Missions

Tribute to Junipero Serra and the Mission Padres

Chapter I
Junipero Serra, Leader of the Heroic Band of Spanish Missionaries of
California. His Coming to San Fernando, Mexico, Thence to California

Chapter II
Brief Sketch of the Conquest of California and of the Founding of the
Missions. Hospitality of the Missions. Care and Benevolence of the
Missionaries Toward the Indians

Chapter III
More About San Carlos Mission and Monterey

Chapter IV
California Under Spanish Rule

Chapter V
California Passes from Spanish to Mexican Rule. Secularization of the
Missions

Chapter VI
California Passes from Mexican to American Rule

Chapter VII
Mission Anecdotes and Hymns

Chapter VIII
Retrospection of the Work of the Spanish Missionaries, Explorers and
Settlers and their place in California's Appreciation

Chapter IX
Rev. Raymond M. Mestres Writes Historical Drama "Fray Junipero"

Appendix
A Letter of Junipero Serra.
The Meaning of California Missions.
Dances of Early California Times

Preface

In presenting this modest volume to the public, I wish to call the
attention of my readers to the following facts. Firstly, my humble work
is a work of love--love simple and unalloyed for the venerable Spanish
Missionaries of California and for the noble sons and daughters of Spain
who gave such a glorious beginning and impetus to our state. Being a
direct descendant of pioneer Spaniards of Monterey, I take a particular
interest in California's early history and development and as my family
were staunch friends of the Missionary Fathers and in a position to know
the state of affairs of those times, and to family tradition I have
added authentic knowledge from reading the earliest archives of San
Carlos Mission, as well as other historical references, I feel I can
fearlessly vouch for the truthfulness of my little work. Secondly--
while fully appreciating the sympathy and interest of many charming and
intellectual characters who grace California to-day, it must be admitted
that there is a sadly ignorant or misinformed number who scarcely seem
to know who Spaniards and their descendants are, judging from the
promiscuous way the term "Spanish" is used, and what is the result of
this among many? Prejudice, and absurd misunderstanding of the golden
days of Spanish California as well as of the Spanish race and character.
It is far from being my wish to offend, but I wish to present correct
historical facts. Thirdly--there is no pretense to consider this brief
sketch a complete or detailed history, but only a truthful outline of
the heroic and chivalrous Mission days.

Maria Antonia Field.

Translation of the Names of the Missions.

1. San Diego.--A Spanish form of Saint James, who is the Patron Saint
of Spain.

2. San Carlos.--Saint Charles. Mission San Carlos and the Royal Chapel
of Monterey were so named in honor of Saint Charles the Patron Saint of
King Carlos III under whose reign the mission was founded.

3. San Antonio De Padua.--St. Anthony of Padua.

4. San Gabriel.--St. Gabriel (the Angel of the Annunciation.).

5. San Luis Obispo.--Saint Louis, Bishop.

6. Nuestra Senora de Los Dolores.--Our Lady of Sorrows.

7. San Juan Capistrano.--St. John Capistrano.

8. Santa Clara.--Saint Clara.

9. San Buenaventura.--Saint Bonaventure.

10. Santa Barbara.--Saint Barbara (whose feast is commemorated on
December 4, the date of the foundation of the Mission.)

11. Purisima Concepcion.--Most Pure Conception (of the Blessed Virgin
Mary). This feast is celebrated on December 8, the day on which this
mission was founded.

12. Nuestra Senora De La Soledad.--Our Lady of Solitude. (In the
Catholic Church the Blessed Virgin Mary is venerated under this title to
commemorate her solitude from the time of our Saviour's death until His
Resurrection).

13. Santa Cruz.--Holy Cross (so named in honor of Our Saviour's
Passion).

14. San Jose.--Saint Joseph.

15. San Juan Bautista.--Saint John, Baptist (whose feast occurs on June
24, the day this mission was founded).

16. San Miguel.--Saint Michael.

17. San Fernando, Rey De Espana.--Saint Ferdinand, King of Spain.

18. San Luis, Rey De Francia.--Saint Louis, King of France.

19. Santa Ynez.--Saint Agnes.

20. San Rafael.--Saint Raphael.

21. San Francisco Solano.--Saint Francis Solano.

Chimes of Mission Bells

Tribute to Junipero Serra and the Mission Padres.

By Maria Antonia Field.

Read at the Crowning of the Serra Statue, Monterey, Nov. 23, 1913.

The fickle world ofttimes applauds the rise
Of men whose laurels are but vainly won,
Whose deeds their names could not immortalize
For their soul-toils were wrought for transient ends;
But heroes of the Cross, they truly great
Shall live, their halo shall no hand of fate

Have power to rob, albeit oblivious years
May veil the radiance of their glorious works,
Or slight their excellence, their light appears
But brighter, statelier in its splendor calm,
Or like the flowers that sleep through winter's snow
To bloom more fair, their lives' pure beams shall glow

With greater brilliance and sweetly gleam
As lodestars in the firmament of worth;
Such is the memory whose holy stream
Of noblest virtue, valor, truth and Faith,
Illumes our path and stirs our souls today,
Immortal Serra by whose tomb we pray!

What peerless aureole wreathes his saintly brow?
What stately monument doth bear his name?
Let this admiring thousands tell us now!
Let youthful lips pronounce his name with love!
Let California proudly sing his praise!
Let scions of fair Spain their voices raise,

And tell of him to whom so much we owe,
Tell of his interceding power with God,
His strong and lofty soul his children know,
His prayers where Carmel's River flows so clear;
O this his aureole, this his monument,
The lasting kind which ne'er will know descent.

Another lesson must the worldly learn,
From him who sought nor praise nor fame;
His birth, ten score agone, and still we turn
To him in reverence, his name is sweet
As vernal bloom, his life shows forth God's might,
Through him this soil received Faith's warm sunlight!

This beauteous land was strange, unknown and wild,
Spite all its treasures, lordly trees and flowers;
For tribes with pagan rites its wastes defiled,
Till came Spain's noble band of godly men,
Explorers true and zealous priests who gave
Their lives' best years, forgotten souls to save!

'Tis just we venerate each hallowed stone
Which rears the wond'rous "Temples of the West";
The tears, the toils, the nightly vigils lone;
The pilgrim-journeys of Saint Francis' sons,
The rescued souls by lustral waters cleansed,
The wealth of hospitality dispensed.

All this and more if but their walls could speak,
Would tell this day; and we in whose veins flows
The fervent blood of Spain, to us each streak
Of light which doth reveal a picture true
Of gentle friar and lovely vanished times
Is tender as the Angelus' sweet chimes.

Well may each Mission have a holy spell,
And Serra's name become a household word,
What marvels can each yellowed archive tell
Of him and of his martyr-spirit band.
O faithful, dauntless hearts! What brilliant sons
Of that great galaxy of Spain's brave sons!

We love their saintly lives to ponder o'er,
While childhood's fireside tales come back to us,
And memory unfolds her precious store,
The bygone glories of the Mission towns,
The grand old hymns sung at sweet Mary's shrines
The Spanish color rich as luscious wines

Of Mission vineyards, and the festive hours
So full of life yet innocent and good,
When blessings seemed to fall as welcome showers,
The Indian tribes were ruled with Christian love,
And shared the sons and daughters of Castile
Their loved Franciscan Fathers' patient zeal!

But still we love each altar and each cross
Of these dear fanes; e'en as departing rays
Of sun doth kiss the crags outlined with moss,
We love to linger by their altars' light.
But oh fair Carmel, she of Missions Queen
What guarding spirits hover here unseen!

Sweet Carmel, center of the hero-band,
What holy treasures hold thy sacred vaults?
Junipero and others! Here we stand
In awe of all thou hast been and art still!
Cruel times took glory, splendor, power
From Missions all, but not their priceless dower,

Religion, love and all we hold as dear,
No hand can tarnish and no might destroy,
And from each hallowed altar ruddy, clear,
Still burns the mystic lamp, for God is there!
The cross-crowned towers tell that all is not dead,
E'en though more splendid times have long since sped.

And like a glowing ember in the night
Our Lady's love has burned through every change;
'Tis thus the Missions ever saw the light
Through labors, ripened harvest-joys and wrongs;
Their noon-sun splendors of well won renown
Will shine their glorious heritage to crown.

O Saintly Serra we implore thy prayer,
Thy dauntless spirit sowed the "mustard-seed"
Which grew as if by miracle of wonder rare,
Upon this now rich land which thou did'st till,
O let they mantle on thy clients fall
Who on thy gracious aid do humbly call.

Chapter I.

Junipero Serra, Leader of the Heroic Band of Spanish Missionaries of
California. His Coming to San Fernando, Mexico, Thence to California.

Junipero Serra, whose name and labors may be termed a compendium of
Christian virtues, was born on November 24, 1713, in Petra, a village of
the picturesque Island of Majorca, on the northeastern coast of Spain,
and a part of the Province of fair Catalonia, one of the most valuable
and beautiful portions of Spain. This child, around whom our story
clusters was baptized on the day following his birth, and received the
names of Miguel Jose. His parents were poor people from a material
standpoint, but gifted with a rich heritage of the noblest, and
sublimest character; qualities which make the Spanish peasant so
delightful.

From his tenderest youth, Miguel Jose evinced an ardent desire to enter
the priesthood and displayed a zealous missionary spirit. His pious
parents placed no obstacle in the way of their gentle boy's vocation,
and being too poor to pay for his education, the Church did it for them.
At the age of sixteen, Miguel Jose left his father's small estate and
began his studies in his native village, completing them at the
Franciscan College of Palma, the Capital of the Island of Majorca. He
made rapid progress, and a brilliant future opened before him, while his
virtuous qualities were noted by all with whom he came in contact. A
proof of his worth may be seen from the facts that he was ordained
before he attained his majority; also taught in different schools as
professor of theology and received the degree of doctor soon after his
ordination. The fame of his eloquent preaching and persuasive oratorical
powers spread not only throughout Spain but reached other European
countries. Still Junipero Serra (as he was known by his own choice after
an humble disciple of Saint Francis of Assisi, noted for his charity)
was not dazzled by his brilliant mental gifts, and his thirsting desire
to evangelize the heathen savage of the New World grew apace with his
fame. He declined the offer to become the Court preacher and other
ecclesiastical dignities, which he would have been entirely justified in
accepting, and practiced those virtues which clung to him with even more
perfect maturity throughout his life; heroic virtues which enabled him
to undertake wonderful things. In him too were noted those sweet simple
qualities invariably found in great and holy men and women, such as
gentleness, amiability, a tender affection for children and a love for
the beautiful in nature; sun, moon, stars, flowers, birds, the woods and
ocean, all found responsive chords within him. In a few brief lines we
have endeavored to convey an idea of Serra's character, let us now
follow his steps in company with the band of heroic workers who
accompanied him in his voyage across the dark Atlantic, and his
apostolic journeys through Mexico and California to "break the bread of
life" to the unfortunate heathen. Among the notable band of missionaries
was Father Francisco Palou, life-long friend and co-laborer of Father
Junipero Serra.

But why did these heroes choose Mexico and California as the vineyards
of their labors? Why did they not go to Africa or other heathen shores?
Here is the answer: Spain and all Europe were filled with stories of the
New World since the discovery of America by Columbus in 1492, and
several other Spanish discoveries in later years, among which must be
remembered that in 1521, Hernando Cortes, one of the great Spanish
explorers of the sixteenth century, explored the hitherto unknown land
of Mexico, and as Spain always accompanied her conquests and
explorations with her missionaries to evangelize the heathens, at the
time that Father Junipero Serra set sail for the New World, which was in
1759, there were in Mexico an archbishopric and several missions
conducted by Spanish priests, among them a well established Franciscan
College in San Fernando, a settlement in the northern part of Mexico,
which the Spanish explorers and missionaries so decided to name after
Saint Ferdinand, a King of Spain, who lived in the thirteenth century.
And to this College, Father Junipero Serra and his companions came after
a perilous voyage of nearly one year; for the date of their arrival was
January 1, 1760; and here they began their labor! Of the nine years
which Junipero Serra toiled in Mexico, six were spent in Sierra Gorda,
some distance north of San Fernando, and one of the wildest and roughest
of those half explored regions. And what marvels attended the labors of
Serra and the other self-sacrificing sons of Saint Francis here! With
Junipero Serra at the helm, the good priests learned some of the Aztec
dialects in order to convert the savages. Then what followed? With the
greatest patience the missionaries acquitted themselves to the task of
teaching the classic, cultured language of Spain to these poor
aborigines, whose languages like those of the still cruder California
Indians, did not contain expressions for even the simplest words of
scripture or of the liturgy of the Church. And can we wonder at this?
But what were the astonishing results of the good priests' labors? They
were truly God-wonders! Daily were recorded numerous conversions, and at
the close of six years many Indian congregations of those regions could
be heard singing the ancient Latin hymns of the Church, and in poor but
intelligible Spanish supplying in their prayers and conversations what
was wanting in their dialects. It was while at Sierra Gorda that
Junipero Serra became afflicted with a painful sore which broke out on
his right leg and which never healed in all his eventful and laborious
career. Many historians allude to this sore as a "wound," but no record
is extant to indicate it as such, the most authentic conclusions being
that this sore was due to natural causes greatly augmented and brought
on by the hardships and climatic conditions he encountered in this
missionary field.

The average person would think Junipero Serra and his companions had
surely satiated their thirst for missionary labors during the nine long
toilsome years they spent in Mexico, far, far away from loving home,
affectionate kindred and the Old World culture to which they bade
farewell when the last glistening silhouette of the Spanish Coast
vanished from their view in 1759, but not so! Their pilgrimage was but
begun! The pilgrimage which was to blossom heavenly and earthly
blessings as beautiful and countless as the flowers which jeweled the
slopes and valleys they traversed. The monstrous undertaking begun so
gloriously, blessed with the benison of prayers, sacrifices, tears;
blessed later with superhuman success and crowned with an immortal halo
for endless days!

Here we will make a slight digression for the sake of our story. In
1548, just twenty-seven years after Cortes discovered the land of
Mexico, Cabrillo's expedition had sailed up the Coast of California, and
in 1602 Sebastian Vizcaino had made further discoveries accompanied by
two Carmelite priests, and landed on the shores of Monterey. Both of
these expeditions, however, were abandoned and California remained the
"mysterious vineyard," as it was called. But Vizcaino drew a map of
California placing upon it the harbor of Monterey, and wrote glowing
accounts of the beauty of the spot. On Point Lobos he planted a Cross,
and the Carmelite Fathers named that beautiful Valley, four miles from
Monterey, Carmelo, in honor of the Blessed Virgin Mary, venerated under
the title of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. Of these facts we will have
occasion to speak of more fully later on in this work.

Years after these expeditions the good Jesuit Fathers established
several missions in Lower California, but were recalled to Spain by King
Carlos III and by this sovereign's request the Franciscan Fathers of the
College of San Fernando were commissioned to take the newly vacated
missions and accompany as missionaries the great and glorious enterprise
of Don Gaspar de Portola, with Vizcaino's map as guide, to further
explore California and add it to the Crown of Castile and Leon.

The Father Guardian of the College of San Fernando, on receiving the
letter from King Carlos, immediately appointed Junipero Serra, whose
zeal and sanctity were so well known, as the Father President of the
band of missionaries to set out for California. Among the missionaries
who volunteered to evangelize California were Fathers Francisco Palou,
Francisco de Lasuen and Juan Crespi.

Here we will introduce a few characters, not of the missionary band, but
who may well be termed faithful co-operators of their labors, men of
unimpeachable honor, whose names add luster to the pages of Spanish
annals. Don Jose Galvez, the Visitador General (general visitator) of
the Spanish possessions in Mexico, a man as pious and noble as he was
brilliant, managed the expedition of gallant Don Gaspar de Portola and
the missionaries, and gave Junipero Serra and the brave officers and
soldiers much encouragement. This wonderfully managed and well equipped
expedition, on which hinged the future of California, was wisely divided
into two parts, one to go by sea, the other overland. The sea expedition
consisted of three ships the San Carlos, the San Jose, and the San
Antonio, the last named was a relief ship and was started after the
other two. The San Carlos and San Jose carried a large portion of the
troops, all of which received the Sacraments before embarking. On these
ships were also placed the Church ornaments, provisions, camping outfits
and cargoes of agricultural implements. Father Junipero Serra then
blessed the ships and placed them under the guidance of Saint Joseph,
whom the missionaries had chosen as the Patron Saint of California. Each
ship had two missionaries on board and among the crew were bakers, cooks
and blacksmiths; on the San Antonio went the surgeon, Don Pedro Prat.
Simultaneously with these ships started two land parties, one in advance
of the other in order to stop at La Paz in Lower California, to pick up
cattle and sheep wherewith to stock the new country, also to bring some
of the converted Indians of the mission in that region, to aid the
missionaries and soldiers by translating the speech of the Indians of
Alta or Higher California; for while the Indian dialects were numerous,
there was some similarity among them. This first land expedition was in
command of Captain Rivera y Moncada. The second land party was in
command of the newly appointed governor, Don Gaspar de Portola, the
first governor of California, and wise indeed was the choice of this
good and excellent man! This second land party was doubly blessed with
the presence of Junipero Serra. Many were the dangers and hardships
encountered by these sterling men both by land and sea; and as the
repetition of what is noble never tires, we will again allude to the
painful sore on Junipero Serra's leg, which caused him such intense
suffering, that his continuation of the journey many times seemed
miraculous even before he reached Saint Xavier (the mission established
at La Paz). When his fellow missionary, Father Palou advised him to
remain a little longer at Saint Xavier's until he would be in a better
condition to travel, his only answer was "let us speak no more on the
subject, I have placed my faith in God and trust to His Goodness to
plant the holy standard of the Cross not only at San Diego but even as
far as Monterey." And God overshadowed the enterprise undertaken in His
Name. The ship San Jose was never heard from, but its noble crew were
always considered martyrs who brought blessings on the rest of the
expedition. The San Carlos and the two land parties reached San Diego,
their first goal almost simultaneously. Here was chanted the first
Te Deum in California! Here Serra, head of the religious portion of the
expedition, and Portola head of the civil and military, conferred with
each other on the course they were to follow. And here we will leave
these incomparable pioneers to celebrate the birthday of California,
July 1, 1769.

Chapter II

Brief Sketch of the Conquest of California and of the Founding of the
Missions. Hospitality of the Missions. Care and Benevolence of the
Missionaries Towards the Indians.

Father Junipero Serra and Don Gaspar de Portola decided on the following
plan; that Junipero Serra with Fathers Francisco Palou and Francisco de
Lasuen would remain in San Diego, where Serra was to establish his first
mission while Portola with Fathers Crespi and Gomez, Captain Rivera y
Moncada, Lieutenant Fages and some of the Spanish dragoons and muleteers
started overland to explore the country, and in quest of the Harbor of
Monterey, carrying with them the map of Sebastian Vizcaino. This
expedition was to result in the memorable "March of Portola," which
lasted about eight months. Missing the Harbor of Monterey on account of
an error in the reckoning of Vizcaino's map, the explorers marched as
far north as what is now San Francisco and discovered the Harbor that
bears that name; so named later by Junipero Serra in honor of St.
Francis of Assisi, the founder of the Franciscan Order. After continuing
a fruitless search for Monterey, the expedition returned to San Diego.
Junipero Serra was overjoyed at the unexpected discovery of the Harbor
of San Francisco, which Portola and his companions so enthusiastically
extolled, and was not discouraged over their failure to find the Port of
Monterey, but hoped to make another trial to find that Port on which
their most laudable ambitions were centered. But here a sad difficulty
presented itself. Governor Portola returned to San Diego with sad gaps
made into his ranks by sickness and hardship, but hopeful with the
expectation that the relief ship promised by Don Jose Galvez had
arrived, and that the San Diego Mission well established would be able
to give his forces a well deserved chance to recuperate. But what was
his dismay? The relief ship had not arrived, and Junipero Serra had
indeed founded a mission with the usual elaborate ceremonies of the
Church, but the untiring zeal and labors of himself and his companions
had not been blessed with a single convert. No neophyte could be counted
among the numerous natives of the place, who had even proved hostile at
times; and the mission too, was in the sorest need; Junipero Serra and
his companions ofttimes adding to their usual fasts and abstemiousness,
"that others might have more." Still the relief ship was delayed! Surely
this was not the fault of good Don Jose Galvez, but it might have met a
tragic fate; thus thought the discouraged land and sea forces; and
Governor Portola was too good a soldier not to know that the best course
to follow was to start at once back to Mexico and abandon the glorious
dream, before starvation and death overtook everyone of them. But here
Junipero Serra interposed, and as if inspired pleaded with the Governor
for "one more day;" Portola out of respect did grant just "one more day"
before ordering the whole expedition back.

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