Denmark
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M. Pearson Thomson >> Denmark
St. Clement is the patron saint of Danish fishermen, and many of the
churches in the coast towns are dedicated to him.
As the Cathedral of Aarhus is dedicated to St. Clement, the Skaw
fishermen have given an exquisite model of a ship to the church. This
ship is a perfect representation in miniature of a man-of-war. It was
made in Holland for Peter the Great, but the ship which carried it was
wrecked near Grenen, and the model was saved by the Skaw fishermen.
CHAPTER XIV
YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY
Denmark is renowned for its educational system and for its schools.
These schools are all under Government control, and meet the wants of
every class. The authorities are upheld by the parents, both being
determined there shall be no such thing as an ignoramus in Denmark, so
whether the children are educated at home or sent to school, they must
begin lessons at the age of seven. If they have a governess at home the
parents must give a guarantee to the authorities that the governess is
efficient and capable of giving the standard education to the children.
Should parents elect to take their children abroad during the school
term, they must notify their intention, undertaking that a teacher shall
accompany them and lessons continue while away. Shirking lessons is
quite an impossibility for little Danes, as everybody thinks that
education comes before all else, so parents do not encourage idleness or
extra holidays during the school year.
School attendance is compulsory for all children between the ages of
seven and fourteen. The hours are not long nor wearisome, as the lessons
are arranged with a view to holding the attention of young minds during
the period of instruction. The classes are small, even in the free
schools, never more than thirty-five pupils to a teacher, and generally
less. The lesson lasts forty minutes, and then there is an interval for
play. The thorough education of the pupils for their future work in life
is considered, so lessons in writing, reading, and arithmetic, in the
Kommune schools, are varied by tailoring lessons for boys, and cookery
for girls, after they are ten years of age. At every school gymnastics
play an important part--pleasant lessons these are for all--but perhaps
the lesson the boys most delight in is their instruction in Sloeyd. Each
lad has his carpenter's bench with necessary tools, and as we know every
boy is happy when making or marring with hammer and nails, I am sure you
will think these must be enviable lessons. I have seen some charming
models as well as useful things made by the boys--a perfect miniature
landau, complete in every detail, benches, bureaux, carts, tables,
chairs, besides many other serviceable articles. Besides this
pleasure-work at school, the boys, if they are farmers' sons, have
practical lessons at home by helping their father on the farm. The
authorities being anxious to help the farmer, they allow him to keep a
boy at home half the day for instruction in farm-work, but the other
half must be spent at school. The prizes at the municipal schools not
infrequently consist of clothes, watches, clocks, or tools, all of which
are worked for eagerly by the pupils.
The boys and girls of Denmark begin early with gymnastic exercises, and
soon become sturdy little athletes from sheer love of the exhilarating
practice. All Danes pride themselves--and with good reason--on their
national athletic exercises. At the Olympic Games, held at the Stadium
in London, the Danish ladies carried away the gold medal by their fine
gymnastic display. This was a triumph with so many competitors in the
field. It is an amusing sight to see the Danes at a seaside resort
taking their morning swim; each one on leaving the water runs about on
the sun-warmed beach, and goes through a gymnastic display on his own
account, choosing the exercise he considers most calculated to warm and
invigorate him after his dip. The children require no second bidding to
follow father's example, and as they emerge from the water breathless,
pantingly join in the fun. Sons try to go one better than the father in
some gymnastic feat which the latter's stoutness renders impossible! The
merry peals of laughter which accompany the display speak eloquently of
the thorough enjoyment of all the bathers.
Yachting in Denmark is not merely a pleasure for the rich, it is
inexpensive, so all classes and every man capable of sailing a boat can
enjoy it. In the summer-time the Sound and other waters seem alive with
the multitudes of white sails and speeding craft of all sizes. The
Oresund Week, as the Royal Yacht Club's regatta-week is called, is the
time of all others for yachtsmen to display their skill, and a gay
event in the Copenhagener's year. The pleasant waters of Denmark are
beloved of yachtsmen. Sailing round the wooded islands, you are
impressed by their picturesque beauty, which is seen to advantage from
the water. One is not surprised that this popular pastime comes first
with every Danish boy, who, whether swimming, rowing, or sailing, feels
perfectly at home on the water. Everybody cycles in Denmark.
Cycle-stands are provided outside every shop, station, office, and
college, so that you have no more difficulty in disposing of your cycle
than your umbrella.
[Illustration: WINTER IN THE FOREST.]
Football is a summer game here--spirited matches you would think
impossible at this season--but the Danes have them, and what is more,
they will inform you that they quite enjoy what appears to the spectator
a hot, fatiguing amusement. Cricket has few attractions for the Danish
lads, but that is because they cannot play, though their schoolmasters
and parents would have them try. All things English are much admired,
and when a Dane intends to do a thing he generally succeeds, so we can
only suppose he is too indifferent about cricket--although it is an
English game--to excel.
Golf and hockey are also played, and "bandy"--_i.e._, hockey on the
ice--is a favourite winter sport. A "bandy" match is quite exciting to
watch. The players, armed with a wooden club, often find the ice a
difficulty when rushing after the solid rubber ball. This exhilarating
game is known in some parts of the world as "shinty." The Danes are
proficient skaters, and of late years an artificial ground for winter
sport of all kinds has been made in the Ulvedal, near Copenhagen. Here
they have "bandy" matches, ski-ing, and tobogganing, as well as other
winter games. Fox-hunting is unknown in Denmark, but frequently foxes
are included in the sportsman's bag when shooting. These are shot
because it is necessary to keep Mr. Reynard's depredations under
control. Trotting-matches are held on Sunday on the racecourse near
Charlottenlund, and horse-racing takes place too. Lawn-tennis and
croquet are very popular, but the latter is the favourite pastime of the
Danish ladies.
CHAPTER XV
INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND
Funen, the island which lies between the Great and Little Belts, is
known as the "Garden of Denmark," on account of its beauty and
fertility. In Odense, the capital, Ingeborg had lived happily all the
fifteen summers of her life. Now she was to have an unexpected treat.
Her grandfather intended taking her with him on the morrow to see some
of the historical places in Seeland. Ingeborg loved history, and had
given her grandfather much pleasure by the knowledge she displayed when
showing him over her own church, St. Knud's. This ancient Gothic Church
is the finest specimen of mediaeval architecture in Denmark. St. Knud,
the grand-nephew of Canute the Great, was slain before the altar while
praying for his people. This brave King could have saved himself by
flight, but would not, lest his subjects should suffer at the hands of
his enemies. He was canonized by the Pope, and his brother built the
church to his memory. Besides being the shrine of St. Knud, this church
is the burial-place of King Christian II. and his Queen, as well as of
King Hans and his Consort. The beautiful altar-piece, given by Queen
Christina, is of the most exquisite workmanship, and took the artists
many years to execute.
Ingeborg's excitement was great when she crossed from Nyborg. She
remembered that an army once crossed this water on foot, so severe was
the winter, and that ice-breakers are still used occasionally. The girl
wished it was winter as she watched for the first time the huge
paddle-wheels of the steam-ferry ploughing through the waters of the
Great Belt. By the time Korsoer was reached, Herr Nielsen, her
grandfather, had made acquaintance with a student who was returning to
his college at Soroe, the town which they intended making their first
stopping-place. The student, whose name was Hans, informed them that he
lived at Ribe, a quaint old town of South Jutland, left very much to
memories and the storks, but possessing a fine twelfth-century
Cathedral. The college at Soroe was founded by Ludvig Holberg, the father
of Danish comedy, who left his fortune and library for that purpose.
Hans was proud of belonging to this college, as it had educated many men
of letters famous in Danish history.
In the Cistercian Church of Soroe, Bishop Absalon, the founder of
Copenhagen, lies buried. It is said that this Bishop's spirit appears,
with menacing attitude, if anyone desecrates the place by irreverence.
Ludvig Holberg is also buried in this cloister church, as well as three
Danish Kings.
Ingemann the poet spent most of his time at this charming town, which
stands on the lake of the Soroe Soe. In the luxuriant beech-woods which
surround the lake, Saxo Grammaticus, the first historian of Denmark, was
wont to wander. Both these celebrated men also lie in the old church,
which Ingeborg felt was a fitting resting-place for the noble dead.
On the advice of Hans, Herr Nielsen took his young grand-daughter to see
the old convent church of Ringsted. Here many Danish Kings were buried
in the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The interesting
Romanesque Church of Kallundborg was also visited. This Church, with its
four octagonal towers and a square tower in the middle, forms a Greek
cross. This is the most unique specimen of mediaeval architecture in the
North.
Ingeborg had long looked forward to seeing Roskilde Cathedral, and the
day was bright and sunny when they arrived at the sleepy little town on
the Roskilde Fjord. This stately Cathedral, with its two tall pointed
spires, is called the "Westminster Abbey" of Denmark. It is the
burial-place of the Danish Royal Family: thirty-three Kings and many
Queens rest in it. A beautiful alabaster tomb marks the resting-place of
Queen Margrethe, the famous Queen who united the three Crowns--Norway,
Sweden, and Denmark--and was ever ambitious for the glory and
development of these countries. She ruled with wisdom and wonderful
diplomacy, and was the most powerful Queen Denmark ever had. She has
been called the "Semiramis of the North." Though the three crowns are
still on the shield of Denmark, the other two kingdoms were lost to her
in the sixteenth century. Queen Margrethe was the daughter of Valdemar
IV., known as "Atterdag," because of his favourite proverb: "I Morgen er
der atter en Dag."[11] This powerful monarch kept his subjects in such
incessant turmoil by his numerous wars for acquiring territory "that
they had not time to eat"! The Renaissance chapel erected by Christian
IV., in which his tomb stands, is very beautiful. This popular monarch,
alike celebrated as architect, sailor, and warrior, was one of the most
impressive figures in Danish history. The mural paintings of the chapel
represent scenes in the life of this great King.
Ingeborg was glad she remembered her history, and could tell her
grandfather so much as they went through the Cathedral. He, however,
informed her that Frederik VII. was the last of the Kings of the
Oldenburg line, which had been on the throne of Denmark for over four
hundred years.
The sarcophagus of the beloved Christian IX., father of many European
crowned heads, including Queen Alexandra of England, is still kept
covered with fresh flowers. This King, whose memory is so revered in all
countries, inaugurated a new dynasty in Denmark. The curious old clock
at the western end of the cathedral interested Ingeborg, and she watched
with delight, when it struck the hour of noon, St. George, mounted on
his fiery steed, with many groans and stiff, jerky movements, kill the
dragon, which expired with a gruesome death-rattle!
In the thirteenth century this quiet town of Roskilde was the capital,
and the archiepiscopal see of Denmark. An English Bishop, William of
Roskilde, is supposed to have built the Cathedral.
We will now follow our little friend and her grandfather to
Frederiksborg Castle. The castle, with its many towers and pinnacles
reflected in still waters, stands in the middle of a lake. This handsome
Dutch Renaissance building is now used as an historical museum. Many of
the Danish Kings have been crowned in its magnificent chapel. Wandering
through the splendid rooms of the castle, Ingeborg could read the
history of her country in a very pleasant and interesting manner. The
collection being confined to one period for each room made instruction
an easy affair for the grandfather. Beginning with King Gorm the Old and
Canute the Great, it comprises all periods up to the last century.
The autumn residence of the Royal Family, Fredensborg Castle, was the
next place of interest visited. This Castle of Peace was built to
commemorate the end of the war between Denmark and Sweden. "Fred" means
"peace" in Danish, and, indeed, this place proves a home of peace to
tired Royalty. Its park is considered the most beautiful in Denmark. The
magnificent avenues of lime-trees are lined by marble statues of
peasants in national costumes, Faroese, Icelandic and Norwegian, as well
as those of Denmark.
The Open-Air Museum at Lyngby, with its ancient farm and peasant
buildings, the interiors of which are fitted up just as they used to be,
gave Ingeborg a peep into the past and old-time Denmark. Here she saw a
curious rolling-pin hanging in the ingle-nook of the farmhouse from the
village of Ostenfeld. This wooden pin, so her grandfather told her, was
a Clogg Almanac or Runic Calendar. It had four sides, each marking three
months, large notches denoting Sundays, small ones showing week-days.
Saints' days were marked by the symbol of each saint. He had seen some
of these old calendars in the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, when he had
been in England, which were relics of Danish government there. These
quaint and curious Clogg Almanacs were used throughout Scandinavia,
small ones made of horn or bone being for the pocket.
But here we must say good-bye to Ingeborg and her grandfather, as after
seeing Kronborg Castle and Elsinore they will return by the beautiful
coast-line to Copenhagen, there to enjoy many of the sights we have seen
in "dear little Denmark."
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: Thank you for the food.]
[Footnote 2: May it agree with you.]
[Footnote 3: Spoon-food.]
[Footnote 4: Luncheon.]
[Footnote 5: Be so good.]
[Footnote 6: Birthday child.]
[Footnote 7: Impenetrable swamp.]
[Footnote 8: The sharp, dry, north-west wind which blows in the spring.]
[Footnote 9: Retreat of wild-duck.]
[Footnote 10: Blue Tower.]
[Footnote 11: To-morrow comes another day.]