Apple Growing

M >> M. C. Burritt >> Apple Growing

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LIME-SULPHUR.--The more important fungicides, the commercial lime
sulphur and the self-boiled lime-sulphur, are practically superseding
Bordeaux as a fungicide, not because they are necessarily better, but
because there is frequently much burning of the foliage and russeting
of the fruit from the use of the Bordeaux. This is unfortunate as the
latter is a rather more effective fungicide as well as more convenient
and pleasant to use. The self-boiled lime sulphur is a combination of
lime and sulphur which is boiled by the heat of the slaking lime
alone, and makes a pretty good substitute for the Bordeaux when it
injures foliage or fruit. This preparation of lime and sulphur differs
from the commercial form used as a winter wash in that it is wholly a
mechanical mixture and not partly chemical like the latter. It may
therefore be used on the foliage in summer at a greater strength,
there being only a very small percentage of sulphur in solution when
the mixture is properly made.

Equal amounts of lime and sulphur are used, these being from eight to
ten pounds each to fifty gallons of water. The mixture is best
prepared in larger quantities so as to get heat enough from the
slaking lime to produce a violent boiling for a few minutes. First,
place say forty pounds of lime in a barrel and pour on just water
enough to start it slaking nicely--about a gallon to each three or
four pounds of lime is usually sufficient. Then add the sulphur and
enough more water to slake the paste, keeping it well stirred
meanwhile. The violent boiling of the lime in slaking will cook the
mixture in from five to fifteen minutes, depending on the quality of
the lime and how fast it is slaked. Just as soon as the violent
boiling is over add enough cold water to stop all action. If this is
not done, some sulphur will unite with the lime and burning may be the
result.

This self-boiled mixture is entirely harmless to apple foliage and
even appears to have a stimulating effect upon it. Against the apple
scab, however, it is not as effective as the boiled wash, or the
commercial preparations. For this disease a strength of from one to
thirty to one to forty (that is about one and one-half gallons of the
prepared mixture testing 31 to 33 Beaume to fifty gallons of water) of
the commercial lime-sulphur is most effective.

SPRAY PUMPS.--The application of the foregoing spray mixtures is fully
as important as the sprays themselves, for on the right application at
the right time depends the efficacy of the spray. For this purpose a
considerable amount of special machinery has been devised. Lack of
space prevents us from going into much detail on this question, so we
must be content with merely outlining the different types of machines
and mentioning their accessories. Sprays are forced through single,
double or triple acting pumps, either by hand or power. The three
types of power available are traction, compressed air, and gasoline,
the last being the most used. Steam power is practically obsolete.

The knapsack is the simplest type of hand pump, but it is of no
practical use in the mature apple orchard. For small orchards and
small trees several types of hand pumps are quite effective. The lever
type of pump, where the handle is pushed from and pulled toward the
operator, probably gives the most power with the least tiring effect,
because it enables one to use the weight of the body to some extent.
It is best not to have the pump attached to the spray barrel or tank,
but set on a movable base of its own, as then it can be used for any
one of a number of barrels. Such an outfit may be obtained for from
twenty-five to forty dollars.

It is well to buy a standard make of pump, preferably from a nearby
dealer, so that repairs may be readily secured. For all orchards up to
three or four acres in size, and for larger orchards where the trees
are not over twelve or fifteen feet in height, this kind of spray rig
is the most practicable and advisable, when the expense is taken into
consideration. This applies especially to the general farm.

The power of a traction sprayer is developed from the wheels. There is
much discussion as to whether sufficient power to throw an effective
spray can be supplied by this method. By accumulating considerable
pressure by extra driving at the ends of the rows and then skipping
every other tree in order to keep up the pressure, going over the rows
twice, a very satisfactory pressure can be obtained for trees which
are not too large. The argument for this type of machine, and it is
especially applicable on the general farm, is that it can be used for
other spraying on the farm as well as for the apple orchard,
especially for potatoes and small fruits. It is a comparatively cheap
type of power, particularly when it can be used for several purposes.

The compressed air gas sprayer comes next in point of simplicity and
cost for a power sprayer. Its most economic use is found where
orcharding is carried on extensively enough to pay to compress the air
or gas right in the orchard. This is of course impracticable on the
general farm. Therefore the air or gas must be purchased and shipped
to the farm in steel tubes. This often causes delay at critical times
and is rather expensive. Moreover, the gas is open to the objection of
interfering with the lime-sulphur compound by precipitating some of
the sulphur.

The gasoline engine is the most useful and popular type of power for
the orchard sprayer, as well as for general use on the farm. Many
makes are now so perfected that they give little or no trouble. One
and a half or two horsepower are fully sufficient for spraying, but
most farmers prefer from three to five horsepower in order to be able
to use the engine more for other purposes. The latter power is open to
objection for spraying purposes on account of its weight, as
especially in early spring it is very difficult to haul so heavy a rig
over the soft ground. Such an outfit is also rather expensive.
Standard makes of gasoline engines of sufficient power for spraying
cost from $75.00 to $150.00 according to horsepower and efficiency.
For very large trees, for mature orchards, and for all orchards larger
than four or five acres, the gasoline engine is the best source of
power for spraying, particularly where it can be used for other
purposes on the farm.

A double acting or two cylinder pump is most desirable. If there is
plenty of power a triplex or three cylinder pump is still better. The
requirements of a good pump are: sufficient power for the work desired
of it; strong but not too heavy; fewest possible number of parts
consistent with efficiency; brass parts and valves; and a good sized
air chamber. A number of standard makes of pumps answer these
conditions very well. Pumps should always be washed out with clean
water when the operator is through with them and the metal parts
coated with vaseline. Never leave water in a pump chamber or in the
engine jacket in cold weather.

The ordinary hand pump and barrel give satisfactory use when placed on
a wagon, unless the trees are very high. But for large orchards, high
trees, and where larger tanks and power pumps are used it is
desirable to have a special truck for the outfit. The front wheel
should be made low so as to turn under the tank to enable the driver
to make short turns around the trees. A tower is desirable where high
old trees are to be sprayed. This should be substantial but as small
as is consistent with the purpose so as not to catch on the limbs and
make it difficult to get close up around the trees. The height of the
platform must be regulated by the need and by the roughness of the
ground. On steep side hills the wagon body on which the tank rests
should be underslung.

In order to get as near to the work as possible get a long hose--from
twenty to thirty feet according to circumstances. The best quality,
three to five ply, is none too good. Hose should be three-eighths to
one-half inch in diameter, one inch being too heavy. Extension rods
are a practical necessity. They should be ten to twelve feet long and
made of bamboo lined with brass, that is, as light as possible.
Nozzles are very important in thorough and effective spraying. There
is no best nozzle, nor one with which all the work can be done.

Several things should be considered in selecting a nozzle. First of
all, it must be of convenient form so as not to catch in trees and so
constructed that it will not clog easily. Second, for apple trees it
should have good capacity and deliver as spreading a spray as
possible. Third, the nature of the spray is very important.
Insecticides should usually be applied with force in a comparatively
coarse driving spray, but fungicides should be applied in a fine mist
or fog so that they will settle on every part of the tree. Therein
lies the difficulty of applying insecticides and fungicides together.

TIME OF SPRAYING.--Fortunately it is not necessary to make a separate
application for each insect and disease, but they may be treated
together to some extent. In most cases expediency demands that the
arsenicals be used with the fungicides. Many growers are finding the
most satisfactory results, however, from applying the arsenical spray
separately, just after the blossoms fall, because of the physical
impossibility of properly applying the two sprays--the driving and the
mist spray--together. For most practical purposes on the general farm,
three sprayings are necessary in order to secure clean fruit and four,
sometimes five, are often advisable. These may be summarized as
follows:

1. With lime-sulphur, winter strength, on the dormant wood in
early spring.

2. With lime-sulphur and arsenate of lead just before the
blossoms open (may sometimes be omitted).

3. With the same (or Bordeaux for scab) just after the blossoms
fall.

4. With the same two or three weeks later.

5. With arsenate of lead eight or nine weeks later (may
sometimes be omitted).

(In the south and middle latitudes where bitter rot and apple
blotch occur two other sprayings may be necessary.)

6. With Bordeaux about eight or ten weeks after the blossoms fall.

7. Again with the same about two weeks later.

A Calendar for Spraying Apples

--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
INSECTS | Nature | Before | Before | After | In 2 | In 8 | Materials
| of | Leaf | Flower | Petals | to 3 | to 9 | to
| Injury | Buds | Buds | Fall | Weeks | Weeks | Use
| | Open | Open | | | |
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
Codling | Eating | | | x | x | x | Lead
Moth | Worm | | | | | | Arsenate
| | | | | | | or
| | | | | | | Par. Gr.
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
San Jose|Sucking | x | | | | | Lime
Scale | Insect | | | | | | Sulphur
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
Oyster | Sucking| x | | | | | Lime
Shell | Insect | | | | | | Sulphur
Scale | | | | | | |
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
Blister | Leaf | x | | | | | Lime
Mite | Miner | | | | | | Sulphur
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
Plant | Sucking| | when seen | | | Whale Oil
Louse | Insect | | | | | | Soap or
| | | | | | | Tobacco
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
Cigar | Eating | | x | x | x | | Lead
Case | Insect | | | | | | Arsenate
Bearer | | | | | | | or
| | | | | | | Par. Gr.
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
Apple | Eating | x | x | | destroy fruit | Lead
Maggot | Worm | | | | | | Arsenate
| | | | | | | or
| | | | | | | Par. Gr.
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
Bud | Eating | x | x | x | | | Lead
Moth | Worm | | | | | | Arsenate
| | | | | | | or
| | | | | | | Par. Gr.
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
Curculio| Eating | | x | x | | | Lead
| Worm & | | | | | | Arsenate
| Beetle | | | | | | or Par. Gr.
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
=Diseases=| | | | | | |
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
Apple | Fungus | x | x | x | x | if | Lime
Scab | | | | | |necessary| Sulphur
| | | | | | | or
| | | | | | | Bordeaux
| | | | | | | 3-3.50
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
| | | | | | |
New York| Fungus | x? | cut out | | | Lime
Apple | | | infections | | | Sulphur
Tree | | | | | | |
Canker | | | | | | |
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
Leaf | Fungus | x | x | x | | | Lime
Spot | | | | | | | Sulphur
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------
Sooty | | | | x | x | x | Bordeaux
Blotch | | | | | | | Mixture
| | | | | | | and Lime
| | | | | | | Sulphur
--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------+---------+----------

CHAPTER IX

HARVESTING AND STORING

Apples are practically never allowed to ripen on the trees but are
picked and shipped green. By "green" we mean not fully ripe, not ripe
enough to eat out of hand. This is necessary for all fruit which is to
be shipped any considerable distance or which is to be stored. Used in
this sense green has no reference to color, but as a matter of fact,
much of our fruit is picked too green, before it has even reached its
full size and is well colored. There is no exact time at which apples
must be picked, but this depends on many factors such as the variety,
the distance to be shipped, the soil, the climate, and various other
conditions, to say nothing of seasonal differences.

The time at which any variety should be picked in a particular section
will be learned by experience. In general, apples should be left on
the tree as long as possible in order to get the best size and color.
When the apples begin to drop badly it is a pretty sure indication
that it is time to pick. If the fruit is to be sold in the local
market or for immediate consumption, it may be allowed to get riper
than would otherwise be the case. With most varieties one picking is
sufficient, but in the case of varieties like the Wealthy which does
not ripen uniformly, or like the Twenty Ounce, which does not always
color evenly, two or three pickings should be made. Two or three
pickings are practically always necessary where fancy fruit is
desired, in order to get the ideal size, color, and uniformity.

LADDERS.--There are two general types of picking ladders, the rung and
the step ladders. For large trees the rung ladders are the best. They
may be obtained in lengths to suit the height of the tree. Lengths of
more than twenty-two or twenty-four feet become too heavy and clumsy
to handle, even when made of pine, which is the best material as it is
light and strong for its weight. In very old, high trees extension
rung ladders are sometimes used. They are also useful for interior
work but are heavy to handle. Rung ladders cost from ten to twenty
cents a running foot. Step ladders are useful only on young and small
trees. The two styles, the three (Japanese) and four legged, are both
quite satisfactory where one can reach the fruit from them.

Receptacles for picking usually hold about half a bushel. Both baskets
and bags are used, some preferring one and some the other, and a
choice between them is merely a matter of personal preference. There
is a little less liability of bruising the apples in bags than in
baskets, but the latter are more convenient in some ways. Fruit should
never be thrown or dropped into a basket but always handled carefully.
Some varieties, as McIntosh, show almost every finger mark and
literally require handling with gloves.

HANDLING.--The old custom of picking and laying on the ground in the
orchard is a poor one and should not be followed, as it causes
unnecessary handling and bruising. Moreover, fruit should be packed
and hauled to storage as soon after picking as possible. Picking and
placing directly on the packing table from which the apples are
immediately packed is the best plan where it is practicable, but as
the weather at picking time in the Eastern States is frequently quite
uncertain, it is not always possible to follow this plan as closely as
can be done in the West, where dry air and sunshine prevail. Still,
wherever there is a considerable quantity of fruit and several
pickers, the plan of packing directly from the table is best. Many
growers pick in boxes and barrels and haul the apples to a packing
shed to be packed later. Convenience and expediency must govern the
general farmer who is not always at liberty to choose the best plan,
often having to do as he can.

PACKING TABLES enable the grower to pack his fruit better because he
can see better what he is doing, and to handle the fruit more cheaply
and quickly and with less injury. They should be portable so that they
can be moved about the orchard. A convenient type has one end mounted
on wheels so that it can be pushed from one place to another. The top
of the table should be made of two strong layers of canvas, one tacked
firmly to the framework of the table with about three or four inches
of dip and the other laid loosely over it. This plan provides a soft
resting place for the fruit and the table can be easily cleaned off by
simply throwing back the upper layer of canvas.

Three feet six inches is about the right width for the table, and the
same sloping to three feet four inches at one end, is the correct
height from the ground. Most packers like to have this gradual slope
to one end so that the apples will naturally feed toward that end. The
length may be anything up to eight or ten feet, beyond which the table
becomes heavy and unmanageable.

BARRELS.--The standard apple barrel adopted by the National Apple
Shippers' Association and made law in New York State has a length of
stave of twenty-eight and one-half inches and a diameter of head of
seventeen and one-eighth inches. The outside circumference of the
bilge is sixty-four inches and the distance between the heads is
twenty-six inches. It contains one hundred quarts dry measure. The
staves are mostly made of elm, pine, and red gum, and the heads
principally of pine with some beech and maple. In most apple growing
sections barrels are made in regular cooper shops where their
manufacture is a business by itself. Only the largest growers set up
their own barrels. Practically all barrels are purchased "knocked
down" and it costs from four to six cents each to set them up. Barrels
can ordinarily be purchased for about thirty-five cents each, but the
cost varies somewhat with the season and the region.

Apple packages should always present a neat, clean, and attractive
appearance. Never use flour barrels, soiled or ununiform barrels of
any kind. If a head cushion is used a good deal of waste from the
crushing and bruising of the fruit will be saved. A head lining of
plain or fringed paper also adds much to the attractiveness of the
package. The wrapping of apples for barrel packing is hardly
advisable. The fruit is pressed into the barrel tightly with one of
two types of presses, both of which are good.

The lever press is more responsive and the pressure is more easily
changed, but it is harder to operate. The screw press distributes the
pressure more evenly with less injury to the fruit and is more
powerful.

The steps in properly packing a barrel of apples are: First, see that
the middle and closed end hoops are tight, if necessary, nailing them
and clinching the nails; second, mark the head plainly with the grade
and variety and the name of the packer or owner; then place the barrel
on a solid floor or plank and lay in the facing papers (the face end
being packed first); select the "facers," which should be the best
representatives of the grade being packed, and _no others_, and place
them in two courses in regular order stems down; with a drop handle
basket fill the barrel, using care not to bruise the fruit, and
jarring the barrel back and forth on the plank as each basket is put
into it in order to settle the fruit firmly in place; lastly, arrange
a layer of apples stems up and apply the press, using a hatchet to get
the head in place and to drive on and tighten the hoops.

THE BOX PACKAGE is rapidly growing in favor, especially as a carrier
of fancy fruit. There is no standard box the size of which is fixed by
law unless it be a box labeled a bushel. But two sizes of boxes are in
common use, both probably being necessary on account of the variation
in the size of different varieties. The "Standard" box is 101/2 by 111/2
by 18 inches inside measurement and contains 2,173.5 cubic inches (the
lawful stricken bushel is 2,150.4 cubic inches). The "Special" box is
10 by 11 by 20 inches inside measurement and contains 2,200 cubic
inches. The bulge when properly made will add about 150 cubic inches
more, making the two boxes hold 2,323.5 cubic inches and 2,350 cubic
inches respectively.

Spruce is the most reliable and in general the best material. Fir is
sometimes used, but is likely to split. Pine is good if strong enough.
The ends should be of three-quarter-inch material; the sides of
three-eighth-inch, and the tops and bottoms--two pieces each--of
one-quarter-inch material. There should also be two cleats each for
top and bottom. The sides of the box should be nailed with four,
preferably five-penny cement-coated nails, at each end. The cleats
should be put neatly on each end and four nails put into them, going
through into the top and bottom. Boxes commonly come "knocked down" or
in the flat and are usually put together by the grower. They cost from
ten to thirteen cents each in the flat.

There are several kinds of packs, depending on the size of the apples
and the choice of the grower. The diagonal pack with each apple
resting over the spaces between others is preferable, but on account
of the size of the apples one is often forced to use the straight pack
with the apples in regular right angle rows for some sizes. The offset
pack, first three (or four) on one side and then on the other, is
very much like the diagonal, but not much used on account of its
accommodating too few apples in a box. The following table gives the
packs, number of rows, number of apples in the row, box to use, and
number of apples used to the box, as used at Hood River, Oregon:

No.
Size expressed apples No.
in No. apples in layers in Box
per box Tier Pack row depth used
--------------------------------------------------------------------
45 3 3 St. 5-5 3 Standard
54 3 3 St. 6-6 3 Special
63 3 3 St. 7-7 3 Special
64 31/2 2-2 Diag. 4-4 4 Standard
72 31/2 2-2 Diag. 4-5 4 Standard
80 31/2 2-2 Diag. 5-5 4 Standard
88 31/2 2-2 Diag. 5-6 4 Standard
96 31/2 2-2 Diag. 6-6 4 Special
104 31/2 2-2 Diag. 6-7 4 Special
112 31/2 2-2 Diag. 7-7 4 Special
120 31/2 2-2 Diag. 7-8 4 Special
128 4 4 St. 8-8 4 Special
144 4 4 St. 9-9 4 Special
150 41/2 3-2 Diag. 6-6 5 Standard
163 41/2 3-2 Diag. 6-7 5 Standard
175 41/2 3-2 Diag. 7-7 5 Standard
185 41/4 3-2 Diag. 7-8 5 Special
200 41/2 3-2 Diag. 8-8 5 Special

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