The Works Of Lord Byron, Letters and Journals, Vol. 1

L >> Lord Byron, Edited by Rowland E. Prothero >> The Works Of Lord Byron, Letters and Journals, Vol. 1

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"That Strabo had never visited this country is evident, not only from
his inaccurate account of it, but from his citation of Apollodorus and
Scepsius, whose relations are in direct opposition to each other on
the subject of Ithaca, as will be demonstrated on a future
opportunity."

We must, however, observe that "demonstration" is a strong term.--In his
description of the Leucadian Promontory (of which we have a pleasing
representation in the plate), the author remarks that it is "celebrated
for the _leap_ of Sappho, and the _death_ of Artemisia." From this
variety in the expression, a reader would hardly conceive that both the
ladies perished in the same manner; in fact, the sentence is as proper
as it would be to talk of the decapitation of Russell, and the death of
Sidney. The view from this promontory includes the island of Corfu; and
the name suggests to Mr. Gell the following note, which, though rather
irrelevant, is of a curious nature, and we therefore conclude our
citations by transcribing it:--

"It has been generally supposed that Corfu, or Corcyra, was the
Phaeacia of Homer; but Sir Henry Englefield thinks the position of that
island inconsistent with the voyage of Ulysses as described in the
'Odyssey'. That gentleman has also observed a number of such
remarkable coincidences between the courts of Alcinous and Solomon,
that they may be thought curious and interesting. Homer was familiar
with the names of Tyre, Sidon, and Egypt; and, as he lived about the
time of Solomon, it would not have been extraordinary if he had
introduced some account of the magnificence of that prince into his
poem. As Solomon was famous for wisdom, so the name of Alcinous
signifies strength of knowledge; as the gardens of Solomon were
celebrated, so are those of Alcinous ('Od'. 7. 112); as the kingdom of
Solomon was distinguished by twelve tribes under twelve princes (1
Kings ch. 4), so that of Alcinous ('Od'. 8. 390) was ruled by an equal
number: as the throne of Solomon was supported by lions of gold (1
Kings ch. 10), so that of Alcinous was placed on dogs of silver and
gold ('Od'. 7. 91); as the fleets of Solomon were famous, so were
those of Alcinous. It is perhaps worthy of remark, that Neptune sate
on the mountains of the SOLYMI, as he returned from AEthiopia to AEgae,
while he raised the tempest which threw Ulysses on the coast of
Phaeacia; and that the Solymi of Pamphylia are very considerably
distant from the route.--The suspicious character, also, which
Nausicaa attributes to her countryman agrees precisely with that which
the Greeks and Romans gave of the Jews."

The seventh chapter contains a description of the Monastery of Kathara,
and several adjacent places. The eighth, among other curiosities, fixes
on an imaginary site for the Farm of Laertes; but this is the agony of
conjecture indeed!--and the ninth chapter mentions another Monastery,
and a rock still called the School of Homer. Some sepulchral
inscriptions of a very simple nature are included.--The tenth and last
chapter brings us round to the Port of Schoenus, near Bathi; after we
have completed, seemingly in a very minute and accurate manner, the tour
of the island.

We can certainly recommend a perusal of this volume to every lover of
classical scene and story. If we may indulge the pleasing belief that
Homer sang of a real kingdom, and that Ulysses governed it, though we
discern many feeble links in Mr. Gell's chain of evidence, we are on the
whole induced to fancy that this is the Ithaca of the bard and of the
monarch. At all events, Mr. Gell has enabled every future traveller to
form a clearer judgment on the question than he could have established
without such a "Vade-mecum to Ithaca," or a "Have with you, to the House
of Ulysses," as the present. With Homer in his pocket, and Gell on his
sumpter-horse or mule, the Odyssean tourist may now make a very
classical and delightful excursion; and we doubt not that the advantages
accruing to the Ithacences, from the increased number of travellers who
will visit them in consequence of Mr. Gell's account of their country,
will induce them to confer on that gentleman any heraldic honours which
they may have to bestow, should he ever look in upon them again.--'Baron
Bathi' would be a pretty title:--

"'Hoc' Ithacus 'velit, et magno mercentur Atridae'."

VIRGIL.

For ourselves, we confess that all our old Grecian feelings would be
alive on approaching the fountain of Melainudros, where, as the
tradition runs, or as the priests relate, Homer was restored to sight.

We now come to the "Grecian Patterson," or "Cary," which Mr. Gell has
begun to publish; and really he has carried the epic rule of concealing
the person of the author to as great a length as either of the
above-mentioned heroes of itinerary writ. We hear nothing of his
"hair-breadth 'scapes" by sea or land; and we do not even know, for the
greater part of his journey through Argolis, whether he relates what he
has seen or what he has heard. From other parts of the book, we find the
former to be the case; but, though there have been tourists and
"strangers" in other countries, who have kindly permitted their readers
to learn rather too much of their sweet selves, yet it is possible to
carry delicacy, or cautious silence, or whatever it may be called, to
the contrary extreme. We think that Mr. Gell has fallen into this error,
so opposite to that of his numerous brethren. It is offensive, indeed,
to be told what a man has eaten for dinner, or how pathetic he was on
certain occasions; but we like to know that there is a being yet living
who describes the scenes to which he introduces us; and that it is not a
mere translation from Strabo or Pausanias which we are reading, or a
commentary on those authors. This reflection leads us to the concluding
remark in Mr. Gell's preface (by much the most interesting part of his
book) to his 'Itinerary of Greece', in which he thus expresses himself:--

"The confusion of the modern with the ancient names of places in this
volume is absolutely unavoidable; they are, however, mentioned in such
a manner, that the reader will soon be accustomed to the
indiscriminate use of them. The necessity of applying the ancient
appellations to the different routes, will be evident from the total
ignorance of the public on the subject of the modern names, which,
having never appeared in print, are only known to the few individuals
who have visited the country.

"What could appear less intelligible to the reader, or less useful to
the traveller, than a route from Chione and Zaracca to Kutchukmadi,
from thence by Krabata to Schoenochorio, and by the mills of Peali,
while every one is in some degree acquainted with the names of
Stymphalus, Nemea, Mycenae, Lyrceia, Lerna, and Tegea?"

Although this may be very true inasmuch as it relates to the reader, yet
to the traveller we must observe, in opposition to Mr. Gell, that
nothing can be less useful than the designation of his route according
to the ancient names. We might as well, and with as much chance of
arriving at the place of our destination, talk to a Hounslow post-boy
about making haste to 'Augusta', as apply to our Turkish guide in modern
Greece for a direction to Stymphalus, Nemea, Mycenae, etc., etc. This is
neither more nor less than classical affectation; and it renders Mr.
Gell's book of much more confined use than it would otherwise have
been:--but we have some other and more important remarks to make on his
general directions to Grecian tourists; and we beg leave to assure our
readers that they are derived from travellers who have lately visited
Greece. In the first place, Mr. Cell is absolutely incautious enough to
recommend an interference on the part of English travellers with the
Minister at the Porte, in behalf of the Greeks.

"The folly of such neglect (page 16, preface), in many instances,
where the emancipation of a district might often be obtained by the
present of a snuff-box or a watch, at Constantinople, _and without the
smallest danger of exciting the jealousy of such a court as that of
Turkey_, will be acknowledged when we are no longer able to rectify
the error."

We have every reason to believe, on the contrary, that the folly of half
a dozen travellers, taking this advice, might bring us into a war.
"Never interfere with any thing of the kind," is a much sounder and more
political suggestion to all English travellers in Greece.

Mr. Gell apologizes for the introduction of "his panoramic designs," as
he calls them, on the score of the great difficulty of giving any
tolerable idea of the face of a country in writing, and the ease with
which a very accurate knowledge of it may be acquired by maps and
panoramic designs. We are informed that this is not the case with many
of these designs. The small scale of the single map we have already
censured; and we have hinted that some of the drawings are not
remarkable for correct resemblance of their originals. The two nearer
views of the Gate of the Lions at Mycenae are indeed good likenesses of
their subject, and the first of them is unusually well executed; but the
general view of Mycenae is not more than tolerable in any respect; and
the prospect of Larissa, etc., is barely equal to the former. The view
_from_ this last place is also indifferent; and we are positively
assured that there are no windows at Nauplia which look like a box of
dominos,--the idea suggested by Mr. Gell's plate. We must not, however,
be too severe on these picturesque bagatelles, which, probably, were
very hasty sketches; and the circumstances of weather, etc., may have
occasioned some difference in the appearance of the same objects to
different spectators. We shall therefore return to Mr. Gell's preface;
endeavouring to set him right in his directions to travellers, where we
think that he is erroneous, and adding what appears to have been
omitted. In his first sentence, he makes an assertion which is by no
means correct. He says, "_We_ are at present as ignorant of Greece, as
of the interior of Africa." Surely not quite so ignorant; or several of
our Grecian _Mungo Parks_ have travelled in vain, and some very
sumptuous works have been published to no purpose! As we proceed, we
find the author observing that "Athens is 'now' the most polished
city of "Greece," when we believe it to be the most barbarous, even to a
proverb--

[Greek: _O Athaena, pr_otae ch_ora,
Ti gaidarous trepheis t_ora;] [5]

is a couplet of reproach _now_ applied to this once famous city; whose
inhabitants seem little worthy of the inspiring call which was addressed
to them within these twenty years, by the celebrated Riga:--

[Greek: Deute paides t_on Hellaen_on, k.t.l.]

Iannina, the capital of Epirus, and the seat of Ali Pacha's government,
'is' in truth deserving of the honours which Mr. Gell has improperly
bestowed on degraded Athens. As to the correctness of the remark
concerning the fashion of wearing the hair cropped in 'Molossia', as Mr.
Gell informs us, our authorities cannot depose; but why will he use the
classical term of Eleuthero-Lacones, when that people are so much better
known by their modern name of Mainotes? "The court of the Pacha of
Tripolizza" is said "to realise the splendid visions of the Arabian
Nights." This is true with regard to the 'court'; but surely the
traveller ought to have added that the city and palace are most
miserable, and form an extraordinary contrast to the splendour of the
court.--Mr. Gell mentions 'gold' mines in Greece: he should have
specified their situation, as it certainly is not universally known.
When, also, he remarks that "the first article of necessity 'in Greece'
is a firman, or order from the Sultan, permitting the traveller to pass
unmolested," we are much misinformed if he be right. On the contrary, we
believe this to be almost the only part of the Turkish dominions in
which a firman is not necessary; since the passport of the Pacha is
absolute within his territory (according to Mr. G.'s own admission), and
much more effectual than a firman.--

"Money," he remarks, "is easily procured at Salonica, or Patrass, where
the English have consuls." It is much better procured, we understand,
from the Turkish governors, who never charge discount. The consuls for
the English are not of the most magnanimous order of Greeks, and far
from being so liberal, generally speaking; although there are, in
course, some exceptions, and Strane of Patras has been more honourably
mentioned.--After having observed that "horses seem the best mode of
conveyance in Greece," Mr. Gell proceeds: "Some travellers would prefer
an English saddle; but a saddle of this sort is always objected to by
the owner of the horse, _and not without reason_," etc. This, we learn,
is far from being the case; and, indeed, for a very simple reason, an
English saddle must seem to be preferable to one of the country, because
it is much lighter. When, too, Mr. Gell calls the _postillion_
"Menzilgi," he mistakes him for his betters; _Serrugees_ are
postillions; _Menzilgis_ are postmasters.--Our traveller was fortunate
in his Turks, who are hired to walk by the side of the baggage-horses.
They "are certain," he says, "of performing their engagement without
grumbling." We apprehend that this is by no means certain:--but Mr. Gell
is perfectly right in preferring a Turk to a Greek for this purpose; and
in his general recommendation to take a Janissary on the tour: who, we
may add, should be suffered to act as he pleases, since nothing is to be
done by gentle means, or even by offers of money, at the places of
accommodation. A courier, to be sent on before to the place at which the
traveller intends to sleep, is indispensable to comfort; but no tourist
should be misled by the author's advice to suffer the Greeks to gratify
their curiosity, in permitting them to remain for some time about him on
his arrival at an inn. They should be removed as soon as possible; for,
as to the remark that "no stranger would think of intruding when a room
is pre-occupied," our informants were not so well convinced of that
fact.

Though we have made the above exceptions to the accuracy of Mr. Gell's
information, we are most ready to do justice to the general utility of
his directions, and can certainly concede the praise which he is
desirous of obtaining,--namely, "of having facilitated the researches of
future travellers, by affording that local information which it was
before impossible to obtain." This book, indeed, is absolutely necessary
to any person who wishes to explore the Morea advantageously; and we
hope that Mr. Gell will continue his Itinerary over that and over every
other part of Greece. He allows that his volume "is only calculated to
become a book of reference, and not of general entertainment;" but we do
not see any reason against the compatibility of both objects in a survey
of the most celebrated country of the ancient world. To that country, we
trust, the attention not only of our travellers, but of our legislators,
will hereafter be directed. The greatest caution will, indeed, be
required, as we have premised, in touching on so delicate a subject as
the amelioration of the possessions of an ally: but the field for the
exercise of political sagacity is wide and inviting in this portion of
the globe; and Mr. Gell, and all other writers who interest us, however
remotely, in its extraordinary _capabilities_, deserve well of the
British empire. We shall conclude by an extract from the author's work:
which, even if it fails of exciting that general interest which we hope
most earnestly it may attract towards its important subject, cannot, as
he justly observes, "be entirely uninteresting to the scholar;" since it
is a work "which gives him a faithful description of the remains of
cities, the very existence of which was doubtful, as they perished
before the aera of authentic history." The subjoined quotation is a good
specimen of the author's minuteness of research as a topographer; and we
trust that the credit which must accrue to him from the present
performance will ensure the completion of his _Itinerary_:--

"The inaccuracies of the maps of Anacharsis are in many respects very
glaring. The situation of Phlius is marked by Strabo as surrounded by
the territories of Sicyon, Argos, Cleonae, and Stymphalus. Mr. Hawkins
observed, that Phlius, the ruins of which still exist near Agios
Giorgios, lies in a direct line between Cleonae and Stymphalus, and
another from Sicyon to Argos; so that Strabo was correct in saying
that it lay between those four towns; yet we see Phlius, in the map of
Argolis by M. Barbie du Bocage, placed ten miles to the north of
Stymphalus, contradicting both history and fact. D'Anville is guilty
of the same error.

"M. du Bocage places a town named Phlius, and by him Phlionte, on the
point of land which forms the port of Drepano; there are not at
present any ruins there. The maps of D'Anville are generally more
correct than any others where ancient geography is concerned. A
mistake occurs on the subject of Tiryns, and a place named by him
Vathia, but of which nothing can be understood. It is possible that
Vathi, or the profound valley, may be a name sometimes used for the
valley of Barbitsa, and that the place named by D'Anville Claustra may
be the outlet of that valley called Kleisoura, which has a
corresponding signification.

"The city of Tiryns is also placed in two different positions, once by
its Greek name, and again as Tirynthus. The mistake between the
islands of Sphaeria and Calaura has been noticed in page 135. The
Pontinus, which D'Anville represents as a river, and the Erasinus, are
equally ill placed in his map. There was a place called Creopolis,
somewhere toward Cynouria; but its situation is not easily fixed. The
ports called Bucephalium and Piraeus seem to have been nothing more
than little bays in the country between Corinth and Epidaurus. The
town called Athenae, in Cynouria, by Pausanias, is called Anthena by
'Thucydides', book 5. 41.

"In general, the map of D'Anville will be found more accurate than
those which have been published since his time; indeed, the mistakes
of that geographer are in general such as could not be avoided without
visiting the country. Two errors of D'Anville may be mentioned, lest
the opportunity of publishing the itinerary of Arcadia should never
occur. The first is, that the rivers Malaetas and Mylaon, near
Methydrium, are represented as running toward the south, whereas they
flow northwards to the Ladon; and the second is, that the Aroanius,
which falls into the Erymanthus at Psophis, is represented as flowing
from the lake of Pheneos; a mistake which arises from the ignorance of
the ancients themselves who have written on the subject. The fact is
that the Ladon receives the waters of the lakes of Orchomenos and
Pheneos; but the Aroanius rises at a spot not two hours distant from
Psophis."

In furtherance of our principal object in this critique, we have only to
add a wish that some of our Grecian tourists, among the fresh articles
of information concerning Greece which they have lately imported, would
turn their minds to the language of the country. So strikingly similar
to the ancient Greek is the modern Romaic as a written language, and so
dissimilar in sound, that even a few general rules concerning
pronunciation would be of most extensive use.

END OF VOL. I.

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