A General Plan for a Mail Communication by Steam, Between Great Britain and the Eastern and Western Parts of the World

J >> James MacQueen >> A General Plan for a Mail Communication by Steam, Between Great Britain and the Eastern and Western Parts of the World

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The next and last point to the southward and the eastward of Chagre is
by the river of Chopo, about 25 miles to the eastward of Panama.
Narrow as the land in this quarter has been held to be, still the
charts and maps lately published by individuals, and by the authority
of the Admiralty, show that it is much narrower than what has hitherto
been calculated upon; and in the particular point under consideration,
very narrow indeed. From the mouth of the River Chopo, opposite the
little island Chepillo in the Pacific, to the bottom of the Gulf of
St. Blas or Mandinga on the Atlantic, is only about 20 miles (some
maps make it still less). In this space, the mountains to the eastward
of the high chain S. of Point Manzanillo and Porto Bello, which give
rise to the Chagres, and its tributary streams, running first (p. 090)
westward and then north-west into the Atlantic, are again, according
to Captain Lloyd, interrupted and broken, affording thereby a readier
communication between the two great oceans, the Atlantic, and the
Pacific. In an apparently good Spanish map of the Isthmus, upon a
large scale, the River Chopo or Bayano is represented as being formed
by two branches, one under the name of the Rio Canizas, springing to
the southward of the Pico de Carti, a hill only four miles from the
Atlantic, in the Bay of Mandinga; the whole course of the river to the
Pacific on a general south bearing, being only 22 miles. The source of
the Chagres comes within 15 miles of the lower course of the Chopo;
and some good maps lay down a river which joins the Chopo, near its
mouth, as coming from the N. E., its sources likewise being within a
very few miles of the Atlantic. Here, certainly, is a point from
which, and on which a communication could be opened up at any rate by
a good road, so as to afford a speedy conveyance for passengers,
mails, and goods, between the two seas; while it is also exceedingly
probable that, even in this short space, great facilities and
assistance could be obtained by canal navigation, and by the rivers
just mentioned.

The points, however, where a canal could be cut of sufficient depth to
admit the passage of large ships, and thus save the delay and the
expense which loading and unloading cargoes would occasion, where
roads of any description remain the only means of communication, and
where the approach on either coast is safe, and interior water
communication most abundant, are, certainly, the points which should
be fixed upon and selected, in order to effect the object so important
to the whole world. The two points hitherto the best known, and
considered to be the best adapted for the purpose, are, first, the
line from Chagre on the Atlantic, to Panama on the Pacific; and
secondly, the line, perhaps the best of the whole, from the mouth of
the River St. Juan on the Atlantic, by that river and Lake Nicaragua,
to Rialejo, or Gulf Papagayo, on the Pacific.

The Panama line comes most properly the first point for consideration.
Here the survey, by Lieutenant Lloyd, in 1829, gives some certain
data, and some curious and important information. He tells us (p. 091)
pointedly, from actual observation, that which good Spanish maps
indicated, and what was more vaguely told by others. According to him,
on the eastern side of the province of Veragua, the Cordillera breaks
into detached mountains, their sides exhibiting only bare rock, almost
perpendicular. To these, as approaching nearer Panama, succeed
numerous conical mountains, arising out of savannahs and plains, and
seldom exceeding from 300 to 500 feet. "Finally," says he, "between
Chagre on the Atlantic side, and Chorera on the Pacific, these conical
mountains are not so numerous, having plains of great extent,
interspersed with occasional ranges of hills of inconsiderable
height."

Such is the Isthmus of Panama, where the distance from sea to sea is,
even according to the present charts, only 30 geographical miles, and
from the mouth of the Chagre to Panama, 33 miles.[18] Of this distance
the Chagre, which has a circuitous course, is navigable for 40 miles
to Cruces--distant from the sea in a direct line 21 miles, and from
Panama 14 miles. At its mouth the Chagre is one-fourth of a mile
broad, and at Cruces about 150 feet: in its middle course the depth is
24 feet. The current runs at the rate of from three to four miles per
hour. It is full of numerous, constantly shifting sand banks, and
sunken trees, which, with the current, render the navigation (p. 092)
tedious, difficult, and even dangerous. At its mouth the coast is very
sickly, as indeed the country through its course also is; but when the
land is cleared, it will doubtless become more healthy. When the
current is very rapid, it requires four or five days to reach Cruces.
The height of the land which intervenes between Cruces and Panama, has
been accurately ascertained by Mr. Lloyd; and that portion of the
country which he passed over in his survey along the old road to
Panama, is certainly the most elevated of the whole, as is shown in
the following summary of his survey.

[Footnote 18: From the mouth of the Chorera to the
Bay Lemon, the distance is 27-1/2 geographical
miles. There is, however, reason to believe, that
the distance from sea to sea is still less. Ulloa,
who was an accurate and scientific observer,
places, and from actual observation, Chagres in 9 deg.
18' 40" N. lat., and Panama in 8 deg. 57' 41" N. lat.
Not being able to observe an eclipse of Jupiter's
satellites, owing to the obscuration of the
atmosphere, he was obliged to calculate the
longitude from bearings and distances. In these,
however, he could not be far wrong; and by these he
places Cruces 21' east of Chagre, and Panama 9'30"
east of Chagre, which, if he is correct, brings the
breadth of the land from the Castle of Chagre to
Panama, to be only 23 geographical miles!!

Since the preceding pages were written, Captain
Washington, secretary to the Royal Geographical
Society, has favoured me with the longitudes of the
places adverted to, as ascertained by Captain
Forster, and in February 1837 by Captain Belcher,
R.N. Porto Bello is in 79 deg. 30' West long.; Chagre,
79 deg. 55'; and Panama in 79 deg. 29' 20". This gives the
distance from Chagre to Panama 33 geographical
miles. Porto Bello is in lat. 9 deg. 32' North. From
thence to the Pacific, a little to the east of
Panama, is 30 miles. From Chagre to the mouth of
the Caymito will be 30 miles. Ulloa's calculations
of longitudes would thus appear to be wrong.]

This survey commenced from the eastern suburb of Panama, at high-water
mark, and ran along the old road to Porto Bello, unto the point where
it crossed the Rio Chagre,--a distance of 1828 chains, 22-3/4 miles.
The highest land passed over was the ridge Maria Henrique, 12-3/4
miles from Panama, and 10 from the Chagre. Its height is 633.32 feet.
The point where the road approaches the river, is 169.840 feet above
the level of high-water mark at Panama; and the bed of the river from
whence the survey commenced downwards, is 152.55 feet. Descending the
river 1545 chains, 19-1/2 miles, Mr. Lloyd came to the village of
Cruces, after a descent of 114.60 feet; thus making Cruces to be 37.96
feet above high-water mark at Panama. From Cruces to Gorgona 410
chains, 5-1/4 miles, the fall is 16.13 feet; and thence to a small
gravel bank, named "_Playa los Ingenieros_" distant from Cruces 1302
chains, 16-3/4 miles, the fall is 21.82 feet, precisely level with the
high-water mark at Panama. At 2682 chains, 33-1/2 miles below Cruces,
Mr. Lloyd first observed the effects of the tide from the Atlantic,
the level of the river at this point being 13.65 feet below the level
of high-water mark on the Pacific. At 507 chains, 12 miles, further
down, reached La Bruja, where the water became brackish; the level of
the surface of the river being 13.55 feet below the high-water mark at
Panama. From La Bruja there was no perceptible descent to the
Atlantic. The whole distance gone over in levelling from sea to sea,
was 82 miles.

The tide at the mouth of the Chagre rises only one foot, or 1.16 feet;
but at Panama the spring-tide in the Pacific rises in a mean level (p. 093)
to the height of 21.22 feet, though high winds and currents
occasionally raise them to the height of 27.44 feet. At low water the
sea sinks proportionally at Panama below the level of the Atlantic:
the reason for this difference is obvious. The current towards the
Gulf of Mexico, and which afterwards forms the famous gulf stream,
carries off rapidly the waters in the Atlantic; while, on the
contrary, the current which flows northward along the western coast of
South America, and the tide which flows into the bay of Panama, from
the south-west from the Pacific, heaps, as it were for a moment, the
waters into the bay and on the shores of Panama, and occasions the
tides alluded to, and differing so greatly from those which are seen
in the Atlantic at the short distance on the opposite coast.

From Maria Henrique to Cruces is only about nine miles. In the
intermediate spaces are several savannahs, and, according to the
Spanish maps, a very considerable river, called Rio de los Laxas,
which enters the Chagre a little above Cruces. This river flows
westward from Mount Maria Henrique; while the principal branches of
the Rio Grande, which flows south into the Pacific immediately to the
westward of Panama, spring from the south-west side of the mountain
already mentioned. The branches of this river and of the Chagre
approach very near each other; while savannahs, according to Lloyd's
map, fill up, as between the Rio Grande and the Obispo, the most of
the intervening space. In this short distance, and with the aid of
these rivers, a water communication, were the country properly
examined, it is conjectured, might be found. From Cruces the road, for
a short distance, ascends considerably; after which it runs along a
ridge, with a valley on each side; that on the south the deepest,
being about 300 feet, and descends until it comes to a plain, through
which it stretches and runs to the city of Panama. It is by quitting
the old Spanish track or road, and continuing along the savannahs and
levels, that it is believed the water communication adverted to could
be effected; and where the distance, taking into account the short
bends which may be necessary, is so short, probably not twenty miles!

These observations naturally call the attention to the consideration
of a line of communication which may be had from the River (p. 094)
Trinidad to the Pacific, either at Panama or a little to the westward
of that town, in the bay of Chorera, at the mouth of the Rio Caymito.
The condition of the country in that portion of the Isthmus has
already been generally described, on the authority of Mr. Lloyd; and
from what he has stated, and which is in unison with other
information, not a doubt can remain that a water communication can be
opened up in this quarter from sea to sea. Lines for railroads have
already been chalked out in both places alluded to; and considered so
easy that the sum of 400,000 dollars is estimated as the whole expense
necessary to complete either. It is scarcely necessary to observe,
that wherever a rail-road can be constructed, a canal may be made. The
River Trinidad is a branch of the Chagre, which comes from the
westward and from the south-westward, and joins the latter at about
eight miles due S. W. from its mouth. The Trinidad is navigable to
Embracadero, and for some distance, from its mouth, is both broad and
deep. Its branches penetrate a considerable way into the country, and
approach closely to the branches of the Caymito, a considerable
stream, which flows through a country, in its lower course,
comparatively level; while between its upper course and the Trinidad
the distance is covered with savannahs and small conical hills, and in
some places marshy plains--a complete proof of the level nature of the
country. The streams which rise to the westward of the line alluded
to, namely, in the hills stretching to the province of Veragua, mostly
flow into the Chagre, another proof of the direction in which the
mountains in this quarter lay; and that there is no continued chain,
as has been stated, extending in the centre of the Isthmus throughout,
and joining together the Andes of North and South America. From the
junction of the Trinidad with the Chagre to Panama is only 26-1/2
miles, and to the mouth of the Chorera 23 miles!

Short, however, as the distances just mentioned are, they are
considerably reduced, when the navigation of the Trinidad on the one
side, and of the Caymito on the other, are taken into account. These
reduce the greater distance at least one-half; and in it, as well as
the lesser distance, the nature of the country, for a considerable (p. 095)
portion of the distance, if not throughout the whole distance,
overcomes almost every obstacle, or rather renders every obstacle that
may offer, possible to be overcome. From that portion of the River
Chagre, which is level with high-water mark at Panama, south-westward
to that city, the country is interspersed with savannahs, and
consequently level. Indeed, for "a few miles" inwards from Panama, the
_plains_ are below the level of the sea, thus rendering the formation
of a canal easy; while, on the north side of the most elevated spot,
the numerous streams which spring and flow to the Chagre would afford
an abundant supply of water for any canal that may be constructed,
however large that may be. The distance, therefore, where any serious
difficulty could occur, must be reduced to a mile or two; and in that
distance, should any of those conical mountains, from 300 to 500 feet
high, or insulated ridges of inconsiderable height, which Mr. Lloyd
tells us are here and there to be found in these places--should any
such intervene, they may be cut through without any great difficulty.
The excess in the rise of the tide in the Pacific, nearly 21 feet
above its rise in the Atlantic, would tend greatly to accelerate the
construction, in this part of America, of a water communication; which
water communication, however, be it observed, must be sufficient to
admit the passage through it of ships of the very highest tonnage, and
at all seasons; otherwise it will not answer the general purpose, nor
interests of the world. Less might indeed suit for the conveyance of
mails; but any thing less would occasion such an additional expense in
unloading, transporting, and again loading goods, as would render the
tedious navigation of Cape Horn preferable.

_Lake Nicaragua, &c._

The next to be considered, and perhaps the last and the best channel
by which a communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific could be
opened up, and safely carried on, is through central America, or the
Republic of Guatemala, by means of the River St. Juan and the Lakes
Nicaragua and Managua, or, as the latter is more generally called, (p. 096)
Leon. These lakes are connected with each other by a river, and are
navigable for ships; Nicaragua for ships of the line. The River St.
Juan forms the outlet of both into the Atlantic Ocean, and is,
according to Estella, navigable throughout its course for ships of
large burden. The mouth of the St. Juan, according to the late survey
by Capt. Owen, lays in 10 deg.53' N. lat. and in 83 deg.40' W. long. Leon, the
capital of the province in which Lake Managua is situated, and from
which the name of Leon is generally given to the latter, stands,
according to the best Spanish authorities, in 12 deg.20' N. lat. and
86 deg.45' W. long.; and its port, Rialejo, on the Pacific, in 12 deg.29'50"
N. lat., and 87 deg.6' W. long. From the mouth of the River St. Juan to
Rialejo, in a bearing of N. 66 deg. W. the distance is 235 miles; and this
bearing runs nearly through the centre of the lakes and the course of
the River St. Juan. From the point where the River St. Juan issues
from the Lake Nicaragua to the point where the River Lapita, which
issues from Lake Managua, falls into the former, the distance, taken
on the best maps, is about 95 miles. Rialejo is situated on a river of
the same name, which is deep, and capable of holding in the harbour
200 sail of the largest ships. The harbour is well protected from the
force of the Pacific, and from storms, by an island stretching out
before it, with two channels between it and the main land; the one
opening to the south-east, and the other to the north-west. The
adjacent country is very fertile, but the place itself is reckoned
unhealthy, owing to some swamps in the vicinity and to the southward;
but which, it is believed, might be drained and cleared, which would
render the climate salubrious, or, at least, as much so as any
tropical climate can be to Europeans.

Lake Nicaragua, in its broadest part, is about 35 miles: it has
several considerable islands, some of them active volcanoes, and all
of them fertile. The country around its shores is stated to be very
healthy and very fertile, and studded with high peaks, mostly
volcanic, and many of them, on both sides, volcanoes in activity. At
the point on its north-east corner, where the River St. Juan issues
from it, there is (according to some of our best maps) erected the
castle of St. Carlos; and lower down, about 16 miles on the banks (p. 097)
of the river, is placed the castle of St. Juan, which castle was taken
by the English in 1780. Alcedo says that this river is navigable for
ships of large size; but others add, that during the dry season, when
the river is low, in one or two places the navigation is obstructed by
sand banks, which, however, could easily be removed by a deepening
machine, such as that used for a similar purpose on the Clyde. Lake
Managua in its western shore approaches in its southern portion to
within 8 to 9 miles of the Pacific; and here the conical peak range
appears to be discontinued and broken. So also it is in the route from
Leon to Rialejo, a distance of 21 miles. The next nearest point of
communication is to the southward of the town of Grenada, situate on
the upper part of Lake Nicaragua, westward to the port of St. Juan,
which runs considerably into the country from the Pacific. Here the
distance from the lake to the sea is 10 miles. The next point of
communication is from the neighbourhood of the town of Nicaragua to
the bottom of the Gulf of Papagayo, the distance being about 15 miles.
The river Partido flows from the S. E. through a course of fully 60
miles, and enters the Pacific at the bottom of the Gulf of Papagayo.
At this point, also, the volcanic peaks and the ridge appear to be
interrupted, and very low, thereby rendering a passage more probable
and easy. On the neck of land, also, between the upper part of Lake
Nicaragua and the Pacific, there are situated in three different
places between the Pacific and the interior part, three lakes, which,
while it shows the low nature of the coast, tends also to shorten very
considerably in this otherwise very narrow neck (12 miles), the space
that intervenes between the lake and the ocean.

The American coast of the Pacific is, in fact, bordered with an
alluvial plain, varying in breadth, which tends still more to lessen
the breadth of the high lands in every quarter. Between the bottom of
the Gulf of Papagayo to Lake Nicaragua, the distance, the alluvial
strip included, is, (see Journal R. G. S. vol. vi.), only 29,880
English yards, nearly 15 geographical miles. The highest point of land
that intervenes, is only 133-1/2 Spanish feet (the Spanish foot is
0.9267 English) above the level of the sea, and only 19 feet above (p. 098)
the level of the lake. The lake is very deep, and at this point is
said to be 15 fathoms. The surface of the lake is thus 133-1/2 Spanish
feet above the level of both oceans. The tide in the Pacific in the
Gulf of Papagayo rises about 11 feet, decreasing in its rise towards
the north, and increasing its rise towards the south. When Mr. Canning
proclaimed that he had "_called a new world into existence_," he
ought, as he then might, to have kept these places, the key to both
worlds, in his power, and in the power of his country.

Some Spanish authorities state, that Lake Nicaragua has a
communication with the Pacific, but at what point does not appear, nor
is it probable. Others state that it has a tide in it like the ocean;
and if so, this certainly indicates a communication with it by some
low and level channel, where the tide from the sea drives back the
flow of waters from the lake. To ascertain these points are objects of
great importance, and well worthy the attention of the civilized
world; and the wonder is, that it has not before this time been
attempted. All the old and best Spanish writers, who wrote either from
access to the best materials, or from practical information regarding
the Spanish territories in South America, but more especially Estalla
and Alcedo, mention, in the most pointed manner, that, by the places
which have just been considered, the nearest and the safest channel
would be found, nay actually existed, whereby a communication could be
opened up between the Atlantic and the Pacific; and farther, that the
possession and the command of Fort St. Juan and the river St. Juan on
the one hand, and of the port of Rialejo on the other, gave the holder
and possessor of them the key to and the command of both oceans. Like
the Gulf of Darien, all entrance into or examination of this quarter
of America by foreigners, or travellers in general, was prohibited by
the Spanish government, under the punishment of death for a violation
of the law. The Spaniards were particularly averse to and jealous of
England, or Englishmen, becoming acquainted with this portion of
America.

In some one of the points mentioned, and most probably from Lake
Managua to Rialejo, or from Lake Nicaragua to the Gulf of Papagayo,
the best line for a communication between the Atlantic and the (p. 099)
Pacific will be found. The shores of Lake Nicaragua are tolerably
well cultivated, and it has several harbours. Numerous streams flow
into it from all sides, but particularly from the north. The river St.
Juan is a considerable stream--as large, say the Spanish writers, as
the Guadalquiver in its lower course. In a distance so short, a canal,
fit to bear ships of the very largest tonnage, could be cut, at
certainly no very heavy expense; say, at the rate of 300,000_l._ for
10 miles. Even if the river St. Juan should not be found to be
navigable, and that it might be most advisable to cut a canal along
its banks, from the Atlantic to the lake, the distance is not very
great (45 or 50 miles), and the country presents no insuperable
obstacles to it; on the contrary, it is believed to be easy of access.
This distance might be cut for 675,000_l._--a small sum even joined to
the other, when the immense object to be attained is considered. The
choice of position, after considering attentively every point, will
remain between Chagre to Panama, and between St. Juan and Nicaragua to
Rialejo, as to which is the best line for a water communication; for
it is pretty clear that the lines to the eastward and to the southward
of Panama, narrow although the neck of land certainly is in these
parts, can only be looked to as points for a speedy road communication
in some, and for small craft in the others.

The jealousy of the government of Spain formerly sealed up every
possible line of communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific,
in all the places mentioned, from the rest of the world; and it is
probable that the jealousy, and also the poverty and inability of the
new governments lately started up in these parts may continue to do
so, if they are allowed to do so, or if they remain unaided in the
enterprise by foreign capital, and not be impelled thereto by foreign,
but particularly European influence. A glance at the map of these
parts of America, and at a map of the world, and a moment's reflection
and consideration bestowed on the great interests that depend upon it,
that would be laid open and connected by such a communication, is
sufficient to show the prodigious benefits which would therefrom
flow to the human race, and especially to the governments and the (p. 100)
people of North and South America, and those fine but comparatively
poor and miserable portions of this globe. The treasures and the
labours of nations would be well bestowed in completing such an
undertaking. Laying open such a communication would do more to people,
to cultivate, and to civilize the world, than any other effort--than
all other efforts made by the world at large, when combined and
brought together. No nation in the world is so deeply interested in
seeing a proper communication through the best of the channels pointed
out laid open, as Great Britain; and no other nation could so well
undertake it as she can. The immense empire which is rising under her
flag in New Holland; the large territory which she would thereby bring
within the sphere of cultivation and civilization on the west coast of
North America, to the north of Colombia River, where both the climate
and the soil are good; the vast and important trade which she has with
China, and may yet have with all the beautiful islands in the Pacific,
with Japan, and with all Eastern Siberia; and the very great trade
which she has, and would have with all the shores of America on the
Pacific,--all render the attainment of the object contemplated
peculiarly her interest, and peculiarly her province to undertake,
support, complete, and protect, in a way and on a scale worthy of the
intelligence, the enterprize, the strength, and the resources of her
government and her people. The number of people, and the traffic which
it would in time add to the present trade and population of the world,
exceed the powers of calculation.

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