The Englishwoman in America

I >> Isabella Lucy Bird >> The Englishwoman in America

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I visited the Bunker's Hill monument, and was content to take on trust the
statement of the beauty of the view from the summit, as the monument,
which is 221 feet in height, is ascended by a very steep staircase.
Neither did I deny the statement made by the patriotic Americans who were
with me, that the British forces were defeated in that place, not feeling
at all sure that the national pride of our historians had not led them to
tell a tale more flattering than true; for

"Some say that we won,
And some say that they won,
And some say that none won at a', man."

We visited the naval yard at Charlestown, and the _Ohio_, an old seventy-
four, now used as a receiving-ship. There was a very manifest difference
between the two sides of the main-deck of this vessel; one was
scrupulously clean, the other by no means so; and, on inquiring the
reason, I was told that the clean side was reserved for strangers!
Although this yard scarcely deserves the name of an arsenal, being the
smallest of all which America possesses, the numerous guns and the piles
of cannon-balls show that she is not unprepared for aggressive or
defensive war.

The Merchants' Exchange, where every change in the weather at New Orleans
is known in a few minutes; the Post-Office, with its innumerable letter-
boxes and endless bustle; the Tremont Hall, one of the finest music-halls
in the world; the water-works, the Athenaeum, and the libraries, are all
worthy of a visit.

There is a museum, which we visited in the evening, but it is not
creditable to the taste of the inhabitants of this fine city. There are
multitudes of casts and fossils, and stuffed beasts and birds, and
monsters, and a steam-engine modelled in glass, which works beautifully;
but all these things are to hide the real character of this institution,
and appeared to be passed unnoticed by a large number of respectable-
looking people who were thronging into a theatre at the back--a very
gloomy-looking edifice, with high pews. A placard announced that Dickens'
'_Hard Times_,' which it appears from this has been dramatised, was about
to be acted. The plays are said to be highly moral, but in the melodrama
religion and buffoonery are often intermingled; and I confess that I did
not approve of this mode of solacing the consciences of those who object
to ordinary theatricals, for the principle involved remains the same.

The National Theatre is considered so admirably adapted for seeing,
hearing, and accommodation, that it is frequently visited by European
architects. An American friend took me to see it in the evening, when none
are admitted but those who are going to remain for the performance. This
being the rule, the doorkeeper politely opposed our entrance; but on my
companion stating that I was a stranger, he instantly admitted us, and
pointed out the best position for seeing the edifice. The theatre, which
has four tiers of boxes, was handsome in the extreme, and brilliantly
lighted; but I thought it calculated to produce the same effect of
dizziness and headache, as those who frequent our House of Peers
experience from the glare and redundant decoration.

This was one among the many instances where the name of stranger produced
a magic effect. It appeared as if doors which would not open to anything
else, yielded at once to a request urged in that sacred name. This was the
case at the Mount Auburn Cemetery, where the gatekeeper permitted us as
strangers to drive round in a carriage, which is contrary to rule, and on
no occasion would those who so courteously obliged us accept of any
gratuity.

There is some rivalry on the part of the people of Boston and New York
with regard to the beauty of their cemeteries. Many travellers have
pronounced the cemetery of Mount Auburn to be the loveliest in the world;
but both it and that of Greenwood are so beautiful, that it is needless to
"hint a fault or hesitate a dislike" with regard to either. Mount Auburn
has verdant slopes, and deep wild dells, and lakes shaded by forest-trees
of great size and beauty; and so silent is it, far removed from the din of
cities, that it seems as if a single footstep would disturb the sleep of
the dead. Here the neglectfulness and dreariness of the outer aspect of
the grave are completely done away with, and the dead lie peacefully under
ground carpeted with flowers, and shaded by trees. The simplicity of the
monuments is very beautiful; that to Spurzheim has merely his name upon
the tablet. Fulton, Channing, and other eminent men are buried here.

New York is celebrated for frequent and mysterious conflagrations; so are
all the American cities in a less degree. This is very surprising to
English people, many of whom scarcely know a fire-engine by sight. Boston,
though its substantial erections of brick and stone present great
obstacles to the progress of the devouring element, frequently displays
these unwished-for illuminations, and has some very well organized fire
companies. These companies, which are voluntary associations, are one of
the important features of the States. The Quakers had the credit of
originating them. Being men of peace, they could not bear arms in defence
of their country, and exchanged militia service for the task of
extinguishing all the fires caused by the wilfulness or carelessness of
their fellow-citizens. This has been no easy task in cities built of wood,
which in that dry climate, when ignited, burns like pine-knots. Even now,
fires occur in a very unaccountable manner. At New York my slumbers were,
frequently disturbed by the quick-tolling bell, announcing the number of
the district where a fire had broken out. These fire companies have
regular organizations, and their members enjoy several immunities, one of
which I think is, that they are not compelled to serve as jurymen.

They are principally composed of young men, some of them the wilder
members of the first families in the cities.

Their dresses are suitable and picturesque, and, with the brilliant
painting and highly-polished brasses of their large engines, they form one
of the most imposing parts of the annual pageant of the "_Glorious
Fourth_." The fireman who first reaches the scene of action is captain for
the night, and this honour is so much coveted, as to lead them often to
wait, ready equipped, during the winter nights, that they may be able to
start forth at the first sound of the bell. There is sufficient dangerous
adventure, and enough of thrilling incident, to give the occupation a
charm in the eyes of the eager youth of the cities. They like it far
better than playing at soldiers, and are popular in every city. As their
gay and glittering processions pass along the streets, acclamations greet
their progress, and enthusiastic ladies shower flowers upon their heads.
They are generous, courageous, and ever ready in the hour of danger. But
there is a dark side to this picture. They are said to be the _foci_ of
political encroachment and intrigue, and to be the centre of the restless
and turbulent spirits of all classes. So powerful and dangerous have they
become in many instances, that it has been recently stated in an American
paper, that one of the largest and most respectable cities in the Union
has found it necessary to suppress them.

The Blind Asylum is one of the noblest charitable institutions of Boston.
It is in a magnificent situation, overlooking all the beauties of
Massachusett's Bay. It is principally interesting as being the residence
of Laura Bridgman, the deaf and blind mute, whose history has interested
so many in England. I had not an opportunity of visiting this asylum till
the morning of the day on which I sailed for Europe, and had no
opportunity of conversing with this interesting girl, as she was just
leaving for the country. I saw her preceptor, Dr. Howe, whose untiring
exertions on her behalf she has so wonderfully rewarded. He is a very
lively, energetic man, and is now devoting himself to the improvement of
the condition of idiots, in which already he has been extremely
successful.

Laura is an elegant-looking girl, and her features, formerly so vacant,
are now animated and full of varying expression. She dresses herself with
great care and neatness, and her fair hair is also braided by herself.
There is nothing but what is pleasing in her appearance, as her eyes are
covered with small green shades. She is about twenty-three, and is not so
cheerful as she formerly was, perhaps because her health is not good, or
possibly that she feels more keenly the deprivations under which she
labours. She is very active in her movements, and fabricates numerous
useful and ornamental articles, which she disposes of for her mother's
benefit. She is very useful among the other pupils, and is well informed
with regard to various branches of useful knowledge. She is completely
matter-of-fact in all her ideas, as Dr. Howe studiously avoids all imagery
and illustration in his instructions, in order not to embarrass her mind
by complex images. It is to be regretted that she has very few ideas on
the subject of religion.

One of the most interesting places to me in the vicinity of Boston was the
abode of General Washington. It became his residence in 1775, and here he
lived while the struggle for freedom was going on in the neighbourhood.

It is one of the largest villas in the vicinity of Boston, and has side
verandahs resting on wooden pillars, and a large garden in front. Some
very venerable elms adjoin the house, and the grounds are laid out in the
fashion which prevailed at that period. The room where Washington penned
his famous despatches is still held sacred by the Americans. Their
veneration for this renowned champion of independence has something almost
idolatrous about it. It is very fortunate that the greatest character in
American history should be also the best. Christian, patriot, legislator,
and soldier, he deserved his mother's proud boast, "I know that wherever
George Washington is, he is doing his duty." His character needed no lapse
of years to shed a glory round it; the envy of contemporary writers left
it stainless, and succeeding historians, with their pens dipped in gall,
have not been able to sully the lustre of a name which is one of the
greatest which that or any age has produced.

This mansion has, however, an added interest, from being the residence of
the poet Longfellow. In addition to his celebrity as a poet, he is one of
the most elegant scholars which America has produced, and, until recently,
held the professorship of modern languages at the neighbouring university
of Cambridge. It would be out of place here to criticise his poetry.
Although it is very unequal and occasionally fantastic, and though in one
of his greatest poems the English language appears to dance in chains in
the hexameter, many of his shorter pieces well upwards from the heart, in
a manner which is likely to ensure durable fame for their author. The
truth, energy, and earnestness of his 'Psalm of Life' and 'Goblet of
Life,' have urged many forward in the fight, to whom the ponderous
sublimity of Milton is a dead language, and the metaphysical lyrics of
Tennyson are unintelligible. It appeared to me, from what I heard, that
his fame is even greater in England than in his own country, where it is
in some danger of being eclipsed by that of Bryant and Lowell. He is
extremely courteous to strangers, and having kindly offered, through a
friend, to show me Cambridge University, I had an opportunity of making
his acquaintance.

I have been frequently asked to describe his personal appearance, and
disappointment has frequently been expressed at the portrait which truth
compels me to give of him. He is neither tall, black-haired, nor pale; he
neither raises his eyes habitually to heaven, nor turns down his shirt-
collar. He does not wear a look of melancholy resignation, neither does he
live in love-gilded poverty, in a cottage embosomed in roses. On the
contrary, he is about the middle height, and is by no means thin. He has
handsome features, merry blue eyes, and a ruddy complexion; he lives in a
large mansion, luxuriously furnished; and, besides having a large fortune,
is the father of six blooming children. In short, his appearance might be
considered jovial, were it not so extremely gentlemanly.

Mr. Longfellow met us at the door, with that urbanity which is so
agreeable a feature in his character, and, on being shown into a very
handsome library, we were introduced to Mrs. Longfellow, a lady of
dignified appearance and graceful manner. She is well known as the _Mary
of Hyperion_; and after a due degree of indignation with the author of
that graceful and poetical book, she rewarded his constancy and devotion
with her hand. The library was panelled in the old style, and a large
collection of books was arranged in recesses in the wall: but the
apartment evidently served the purposes of library and boudoir, for there
were numerous evidences of female taste and occupation. Those who think
that American children are all precocious little men and women would have
been surprised to see the door boisterously thrown open by a little
blooming boy, who scrambled mirthfully upon his father's knee, as though
used to be there, and asked him to whittle a stick for him.

It is not often that the conversation of an author is equal in its way to
his writings, therefore I expected in Mr. Longfellow's case the
disappointment which I did not meet with. He touched lightly on various
subjects, and embellished each with the ease and grace of an accomplished
scholar, and, doubtless in kindly compliment to an English visitor,
related several agreeable reminiscences of acquaintanceships formed with
some of our _literati_ during a brief visit to England. He spoke with much
taste and feeling of European antiquities, and of the absence of them in
the New World, together with the effect produced by the latter upon the
American character. He said that nothing could give him greater pleasure
than a second visit to Europe, but that there were "six obstacles in the
way of its taking place."

With him as a very able _cicerone_ I had the pleasure of visiting
Cambridge University, which reminded me more of England than anything I
saw in America; indeed there are features in which it is not unlike its
English name sake. It has no Newtonian or Miltonian shades, but in another
century the names of those who fill a living age with lustre will have
their memorials among its academic groves. There are several halls of dark
stone or red brick, of venerable appearance, and there are avenues of
stately elms. The library is a fine Gothic edifice, and contains some
valuable manuscripts and illuminated editions of old works. There was a
small copy of the four evangelists, written in characters resembling
print, but so small that it cannot be read without a magnifying glass.
This volume was the labour of a lifetime, and the transcriber completed
his useless task upon his deathbed. While Mr. Longfellow was showing me
some autographs of American patriots, I remarked that as I was showing
some in a Canadian city, a gentleman standing by, on seeing the signature
of the Protector, asked, in the most innocent ignorance, who Oliver
Cromwell was? A lady answered that he was a successful rebel in the olden
time! "If you are asked the question a second time," observed the poet,
who doubtless fully appreciates the greatness of Cromwell, "say that he
was an eminent brewer."

Altogether there is very much both of interest and beauty in Boston and
its environs; and I was repeatedly told that I should have found the
society more agreeable than that of New York. With the exception of visits
paid to the houses of Longfellow and the late Mr. Abbott Lawrence, I did
not see any of the inhabitants of Boston, as I only spent three days in
the neighbourhood; but at Mr. Amy's house I saw what is agreeable in any
country, more especially in a land of transition and change--a happy
American home. The people of this western Athens pride themselves upon the
intellectual society and the number of eminent men which they possess,
among whom may be named Longfellow, Emerson, Lowell, Dana, and Summer. One
of these at least is of the transcendental school. I very much regretted
that I had not more time to devote to a city so rich in various objects of
interest; but the northern winter had already begun, and howling winds and
angry seas warned me that it was time to join my friends at Halifax, who
were desirous to cross the "vexed Atlantic" before the weather became yet
more boisterous.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Origin of the Constitution--The Executive--Congress--Local Legislatures--
The army and navy--Justice--Slavery--Political corruption--The foreign
element--Absence of principle--Associations--The Know-nothings--The Press
and its power--Religion--The Church--The Clergy.

Before concluding this volume it will be proper to offer a few remarks
upon American institutions, and such of their effects as are obvious to a
temporary resident in the States. In apology for my own incompetence, I
must again remind the reader that these are merely surface observations,
offered in accordance with the preface to this work.

The Constitution demands the first notice. When our American colonies
succeeded in throwing off the yoke of England, it became necessary for
them to choose a form of government. No country ever started under such
happy auspices. It had just concluded a successful struggle with one of
the greatest empires in the world; its attitude of independence was
sympathised with by the enthusiastic spirits of Europe, and had even
gained the respect of that upright monarch, who, on receiving the first
ambassador from his revolted colonies, addressed him with these memorable
words:--"I was the last man in England to acknowledge the independence of
America; but, being secured, I shall be the last man in England to violate
it." Thus circumstanced, each of the thirteen States, with the exception
of Rhode Island, sent delegates to Philadelphia to deliberate on the form
of government which should be adopted. This deliberative assembly of a
free people presented a sublime spectacle in the eyes of nations. After
two years of consideration, and considerable differences of opinion, it
was decided that the monarchical traditions of the Old World were effete
and obsolete; and accordingly a purely Republican Constitution was
promulgated, under which the United States have become a rich and powerful
nation. It is gratifying to an English person to know that the
Constitution of the States was derived in great measure from that of
England, enlarged, and divested of those which were deemed its
objectionable features. The different States had previously possessed
local assemblies, and governors, and the institutions connected with
slavery; the last remain to this day in pretty much the same state as when
they were bequeathed by England to America. Washington entered upon the
office of President in 1789, and discharged its duties, as he did those of
every other station, with that high-souled and disinterested patriotism
which render him as worthy to be imitated as admired.

There are three authorities, the President, the Senate, and the House of
Representatives, all elected by the people; thus their acts are to a
certain extent expressive of the popular will.

The President is elected by universal suffrage, once in four years. He
receives a salary of 5000_l._ per annum, and is assisted by five
secretaries, who, with two other executive officers, are paid at the rate
of 1600_l._ a-year.

This officer has considerable power and enormous patronage. He makes
treaties, which merely require the ratification of the Senate; he grants
pardons, and may place his veto on the acts of the two other estates,
provided that they have not been returned by two-thirds of the members of
the respective houses.

There are sixty-two Senators, or two from each State. These are elected by
the local legislatures for a term of six years, and one-third of the
number retire every two years. Each Senator must be thirty years of age;
he must be a resident of the State which he represents, and he must have
been naturalised for nine years.

The Lower House, or House of Representatives, is perhaps the most purely
popular body in the world. The members are elected for two years by
universal suffrage, that is, by the votes of all the free male citizens of
America who have attained the age of 21. Each member of the Lower House
must have been naturalised for seven years, and he must have passed the
age of 25. Population has been taken as the basis of representation, in
the following very simple manner. The number of Representatives was fixed
by Act of Congress at 233, although a new one has recently been added for
California. The aggregate representative population (by the last decennial
enumeration, 21,767,673) is taken, and divided by 233; and the quotient,
rejecting fractions, is the ratio of apportionment among the several
States. The representative population of each State is then ascertained,
and is divided by the above named ratio, and the quotient gives the number
of representatives to each State. The State of New York, being the most
populous, possesses 33 representatives; two of the States, namely,
Delaware and Florida, require no more than one each. On a rough
calculation, each member represents about 90,000 persons. The two houses
together are named Congress, and the members of both receive 32_s._ per
diem for their attendance, without deduction in case of sickness, in
addition to travelling expenses. All measures of legislation and taxation
must receive the approval of the President and the Congress, the majority
in Congress representing the popular will. Every State has its assembly
and governor, and to a certain extent has power to make its own laws. The
members of these assemblies, the governors of the States, and the mayors
and municipal officers of the cities, are all elected by universal
suffrage.

No system of direct taxation is adopted in the States, except for local
purposes. The national revenue is derived from customs duties, on many
articles so high as to amount to protective duties; from the sale of wild
lands; and from one or two other sources. The annual revenue of the
country is about 12,000,000_l._, and the expenditure is under the income.
The state officials are rather poorly paid. The chief ambassadors do not
receive more than 1800_l._ per annum, and the chief justice, whose duties
are certainly both arduous and responsible, only receives a salary of
1000_l._ a year. The principal items of expenditure are connected with the
army and navy, and the officers in both these services are amply
remunerated. The United States navy is not so powerful as might be
expected from such a maritime people. There are only twelve ships of the
line and twelve first class frigates, including receiving-ships and those
on the stocks.

The standing army consists of 10,000 men, and is regarded with some
jealousy by the mass of the people. The pay in this branch of the service
varies from that of a major-general, which is 1000_l._ a year, to that of
a private, which is about 1_s._ 6_d._ a day. This last is larger than it
appears, as it is not subject to the great deductions which are made from
that of an English soldier. The real military strength of America consists
of an admirably trained militia force of about 2,200,000 men, supported at
an enormous expense. This large body is likely to prove invincible for
defensive purposes, as it is composed of citizens trained to great skill
as marksmen, and animated by the strongest patriotism; but it is to be
hoped that it also furnishes a security against an offensive war on a
large scale, as it is scarcely likely that any great number of men would
abandon their business and homes for any length of time for aggressive
purposes.

The highest court of law in the United States is the Supreme Court, which
holds one annual session at Washington. It is composed of a chief justice
and eight associate justices, and is the only power not subjected directly
or indirectly to the will of the people. The United States are divided
into nine judicial circuits, in each of which a Circuit Court is held
twice a year by a justice of the Supreme Court, assisted by the district
judge of the State in which the court sits. There is, however, a great
weakness both about the Executive and the administration of justice, the
consequence of which is, that, when a measure is placed upon the statute-
book which is supposed to be obnoxious to any powerful class, a _league_
is formed by private individuals for the purpose of enforcing it, or in
some cases it would become a dead letter. The powerful societies which are
formed to secure the working of the "_Maine Law_" will occur at once to
English readers.

Each State possesses a distinct governmental machinery of its own,
consisting of a Governor, a Senate, and a House of Representatives. The
Governor is elected by a majority of the votes of the male citizens for a
term of years, varying in different States from one to four. The Senators
are elected for like periods, and the Representatives are chosen for one
or two years. The largest number of Representatives for any one State is
356.

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