A Canyon Voyage

F >> Frederick S. Dellenbaugh >> A Canyon Voyage

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In an alcove a large tent had been put up, which the Major's family was
occupying, for Mrs. Powell and her baby daughter had come from Salt Lake
with him, arriving a few days before. The daughter was but three months
old and was happy in a big clothes-basket for a cradle. Mrs. Thompson,
Prof.'s wife, and sister of the Major, had also come from Salt Lake and
another large tent sheltered them, while still another of equal size,
not yet erected, was designed for the men. It was a specially
interesting camp to us who had come over from House Rock for it was
novel to see so many people around. The Major himself was absent at
Kanab. Before the camp was asleep the hour was late, and so soundly did
every one rest that the sneaking wolves without the least molestation
carried off two large sacks of the jerked beef from near our heads,
where we had put it against a huge rock thinking they would not come so
close; but as they had pulled a ham the night before from under the head
of Captain Dodds where he had placed it for safety, we ought to have
been more sensible. Two or three nights later, as I was sleeping in a
special bed one of the men then absent had made by a big rock some yards
from the main camp, I was awakened by a wolf crunching bones by the fire
not eight feet from my head. I wanted to shoot the impertinent wretch,
but his form was indistinct and my rifle lying by my side had to be
trained his way. This took some time, as I had to move cautiously, and
in the midst of my effort my elbow slipped. Like a shadow he flitted
into the deeper gloom and I went to sleep again. I did not want to
shoot without certainty, though some nights later I did shoot with
Riley's huge double-barrelled shotgun loaded with buckshot straight into
our mess kit, not killing the wolf that was there, but putting holes in
numerous tin plates through which bean soup delighted to percolate, so
that I never heard the last of this midnight effort of mine to diminish
the wolf family.

The day following our arrival the Major came from Kanab and the plans
for our winter's campaign were put in operation. A base line for our
geographic work was necessary and this was to run south from Kanab, so
Prof. on December 7th, with Mrs. Thompson, Cap., Clem, Andy, Jones (who
had recovered his health), and one of the new men named MacEntee, left
us with loaded waggons to establish another camp nearer to the scene of
this work. Another member of the party was Fuzz, Mrs. Thompson's dog, an
intelligent Dandie Dinmont. As I was much interested to see Kanab, of
which so much had been said, and as it was now nearly seven months since
I had seen an occupied house, I decided to take a Sunday ride in that
direction. On the 17th, about noon, I put a saddle on a white mule which
Jack had named Nigger and was soon on my way. Emerging from the
Chocolate Cliffs the road led along the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs,
crossing long ridges covered with cedars and pinons with a vast view to
the Kaibab on the south and east, and soon joining a road that led from
a canyon to eastward where there was a very small settlement called
Johnson's, and from two or three houses which had been built where the
El Vado trail crossed the Paria River. Nigger went along very well and I
was in Kanab by three o'clock. The village, which had been started only
a year or two, was laid out in the characteristic Mormon style with wide
streets and regular lots fenced by wattling willows between stakes.
Irrigating ditches ran down each side of every street and from them the
water, derived from a creek that came down a canyon back of the town,
could be led into any of the lots, each of which was about one quarter
of an acre; that is, there were four lots to a block. Fruit trees, shade
trees, and vines had been planted and were already beginning to promise
near results, while corn, potatoes, etc., gave fine crops. The original
place of settlement was a square formed by one-story log houses on three
sides and a stockade on the fourth. This was called the fort and was a
place of refuge, though the danger from Navajo attack seemed to be over
and that from any assault by the Pai Utes certainly was past. One corner
of the fort was made by the walls of the schoolhouse, which was at the
same time meeting-house and ball-room. Altogether there were about 100
families in the village. The houses that had been built outside the fort
were quite substantially constructed, some of adobe or sun-dried brick.
The entire settlement had a thrifty air, as is the case with the
Mormons. Not a grog-shop, or gambling saloon, or dance-hall was to be
seen; quite in contrast with the usual disgraceful accompaniments of the
ordinary frontier towns. A perfectly orderly government existed, headed
by a bishop appointed by the church authorities in Salt Lake, the then
incumbent of this office being an excellent man, Bishop Stewart. I rode
to the fort, where I found Clem and Beaman domiciled with their
photographic outfit, with a swarm of children peeping through every
chink and crevice of the logs to get a view of the "Gentiles," a kind of
animal they had seldom seen. Every one was cordial. Beaman even offered
me a drink made with sugar-water and photographic alcohol, but it did
not appeal to my taste. It was after sunset when I started Nigger
towards Eight Mile Spring and I enjoyed the ride in the edge of night
with not a living thing, besides Nigger (and Nigger was a mule), to
disturb my reveries.

I had as yet seen none of the natives of the locality. They were now
very friendly and considered harmless, thanks to Jacob's wise
management. The only Indians the settlers dreaded were some renegades, a
band of Utes and Navajos, collected by a bold and skillful chief named
Patnish, whose "country" was south of the Colorado around Navajo
Mountain. He was reputed to be highly dangerous, and the Kanab people
were constantly prepared against his unwelcome visits. He had several
handsome stalwart sons, who dressed in white and who generally
accompanied him. Though Patnish was so much feared, I do not remember to
have heard that he committed any depredations after this time. There had
been much trouble with the Navajos, but Jacob, growing tired of the
constant warfare, had resolved to go to them and see if he could not
change the state of affairs. When he had guided the Major to the Moki
Towns and Fort Defiance the year before (1870), about six thousand
Navajos were assembled at the Agency. The chiefs were invited to meet in
council on the 2d of November, and all the principal chiefs but one and
all subchiefs but two were there. The Major led the way by introducing
Jacob and speaking in highly complimentary terms of the Mormons; and
Jacob then gave a long talk in his low-voiced way, illustrating the
great evils of such warfare as had existed, and closed by saying:

"What shall I tell my people the 'Mormons' when I return home?
That we may expect to live in peace, live as friends, and
trade with one another? Or shall we look for you to come
prowling around our weak settlements, like wolves in the
night? I hope we may live in peace in time to come. I have now
grey hairs on my head, and from my boyhood I have been on the
frontiers doing all I could to preserve peace between white
men and Indians. I despise this killing, this shedding of
blood. I hope you will stop this and come and visit and trade
with our people. We would like to hear what you have got to
say before we go home."

Barbenceta, the principal chief, slowly approached as Jacob ended, and
putting his arms around him said: "My friend and brother, I will do all
that I can to bring about what you have advised. We will not give all
our answer now. Many of the Navajos are here. We will talk to them
to-night and will see you on your way home." Several days later Jacob
met him and the chiefs who had been absent; he said they would all
really like to see peace with the Mormons carried out, and continued:

"We have some bad men among us, but if some do wrong, the wise
ones must not act foolishly, like children, but let it be
settled according to the spirit of your talk at Fort Defiance.
Here is Hastele. I wish you would take a good look at him, so
you will not be mistaken in the man. He never lies or steals.
He is a truthful man; we wish all difficult matters settled
before him. He lives on the frontier nearest to the river; you
can find him by inquiry. We hope we may be able to eat at one
table, warm by one fire, smoke one pipe, and sleep under one
blanket."

[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.

From South Rim near Bright Angel Creek.]

Jacob proceeded towards home, taking a Moki, named Tuba, and his wife
back with him, so that they might see the Mormon country. Arriving at
the crossing of the Colorado Tuba was sad. He said his people had once
lived on the other side, and their fathers had told them they never
again would go west of the river to live. "I am now going on a visit to
see my friends. I have worshipped the Father of us all in the way you
believe to be right; now I wish you would do as the Hopees think is
right before we cross." Jacob assented, and Tuba, he said,

"then took his medicine bag from under his shirt and offered
me a little of its contents. I offered my left hand to take
it; he requested me to take it with my right. He then knelt
with his face to the east, and asked the Great Father of us
all to preserve us in crossing the river. He said that he and
his wife had left many friends at home, and if they never
lived to return their friends would weep much. He prayed for
pity upon his friends the Mormons, that none of them might
drown in crossing; and that all the animals we had with us
might be spared, for we needed them all, and to preserve unto
us all our food and clothing, that we need not suffer hunger
nor cold on our journey. He then arose to his feet. We
scattered the ingredients from the medicine bag into the air,
on to the land, and into the water of the river."

When they were all safely over Tuba gave thanks that his prayer had been
answered.[26]

The last white men to be killed by the Navajos in the Kanab region were
Dr. Whitmore and his herder at Pipe Springs, twenty miles west, five
years before in the winter of 1865-66. The raiders were pursued by a
strong party, and some of them, turning down the Kanab Canyon, perhaps
thinking the river could be crossed there, were surprised and fired on
at dawn. Some escaped, though wounded. Jacob kept a close watch on all
the passes, and especially at El Vado. Several raiders were intercepted
and shot. In 1869 a raiding band successfully drove off twelve hundred
head of horses and cattle from northern settlements, and the winter of
1869-70 was one of the worst, requiring Jacob's presence in the field
almost constantly. He was accompanied by friendly Pai Utes, who hated
the Navajos. One Navajo was shot in a band who had stolen cattle, but
the others were allowed to leave on giving up the stock. The shot did
not kill the Navajo, and they followed to see what became of him. He was
carried along by his friends to where another raiding party was
encamped. The Pai Utes then killed two of this party, scalping one, but
refraining from taking the scalp of the other because he had sandy hair
and looked too much like a white man. Later three more Navajos were
killed in a fight, but the rest escaped with ten horses. Jacob grew
heartily sick of this kind of work, and made the resolve to appeal to
the Navajos, with the result stated. He also visited the Red Lake Utes
to the north, and all the Indians along the Sevier. Beginning with the
band of Navajos under Agua Grande, which we had met at El Vado, they
came north in numerous parties with perfect confidence that the Mormons
would receive them peacefully. But they continued to despise the Pai
Utes, considering them beneath notice.

In September of the year 1870 the Major, by Brigham Young's advice, had
engaged Jacob to go with him to Mt. Trumbull in the Uinkaret region
adjoining the Shewits country. Jacob, wishing to see these Indians
himself, was very willing to go. They made a camp by a spring, and
finding some natives near, Jacob asked them to bring in some of the
party who had taken part in the killing of the Howlands and Dunn the
year before. Twelve or fifteen finally came, and they had a talk.

"I commenced [said Jacob] by explaining to the Indians
Professor Powell's business. I endeavoured to get them to
understand that he did not visit their country for any purpose
that would work evil to them, that he was not hunting gold or
silver or other metals; that he would be along the river next
season with a party of men, and if they found any of them away
from the river in the hills, they must be their friends and
show them places where there was water if necessary."

They replied that friends of theirs from across the river had declared
the men were miners and advised killing them, for if they found mines it
would bring great evil among them. The men were followed and killed
while asleep. They declared that had they been correctly informed about
the men they would not have killed them. Kapurats ("No-arm," meaning the
Major), they said, could travel and sleep in their country unmolested
and they would show him and his men the watering-places.[27]

On December 19th we moved our camp from Eight Mile Spring to a place
below the gap in the Chocolate Cliffs south of Kanab and not far below
the Utah-Arizona boundary; the 37th parallel. Bonnemort and I remained
behind to gather up the last articles and it was dark when we reached
the new ground. Our large tent was pitched in the creek bottom with the
others not far off, making quite a settlement. The weather was rainy and
cold, but a conical sheet-iron stove heated the tent well and there we
had dry comfortable evenings, some of the men singing, some writing
letters or plotting notes, others reading and still others perhaps
playing a game. Bonnemort was something of a singer and was specially
fond of _Beautiful Isle of the Sea_, but Jack still maintained his
complete supremacy as a tenor. His repertory always increased and he was
ever ready to entertain us. One of his selections I remember was the
ballad:

"I wandered by the brookside,
I wandered by the mill;
I could not hear the brook flow,
The noisy wheel was still,
There was no burr of grasshopper
No chirp of any bird,
But the beating of my own heart
Was all the sound I heard."

Mrs. Thompson had a sweet voice and knew a lot of songs, which were
frequently heard issuing from her tent, and this, with the presence of
Mrs. Powell and the baby, added to the locality a pleasant homelike air.
Both Mrs. Thompson and Mrs. Powell had been familiar with camp life,
Mrs. Powell having spent a winter, 1868-69, with the Major in Middle
Park, Colorado, near the camp of Chief Douglas, the father of our friend
Douglas Boy.

Andy cooked all the meals on a fire out of doors, and they were no
longer served in our "go fur it boys" canyon style, but a large canvas,
showing by its colour the effects of exposure, was elegantly spread on
the ground and around its edges the tin plates, cups, etc., were
arranged, with the beanpot and other provender in the middle. This
method continued henceforth. The company would sit around on the ground,
each in whatever position was comfortable. Liberal portions of bread and
sorghum molasses formed the dessert, and after a while so indispensable
did the sorghum grow that we dubbed it the "staff of life." It was easy
to get, quantities being produced in "Dixie." Kanab besides being
favoured with two mails a week had a telegraph line connecting with the
settlements of the Virgin region and with Salt Lake, and we now felt
that once more we had a grip on the world.

On the 22d of December the Major, accompanied by Captain Dodds, Riley,
and one of the Kanab men, John Stewart, a son of the bishop, started for
the Kaibab to find a way to get rations to the Colorado next year near
the mouth of the Little Colorado. The weather now was rather stormy but
Prof. continued his observations as well as he could, and parties were
sent out in a number of directions to place flags and monuments for the
geodetic work. The base line was to be measured south from near Kanab
for about ten miles. Christmas day came with rain and small prospect of
special enjoyment, and we all kept the shelter of the tent after hunting
up the horses in mud ankle-deep. But our dinner was a royal feast, for
Mrs. Thompson herself made a huge plum-pudding and Prof. supplied butter
and milk from Kanab, making this feature of the holiday an immense
success. In the evening a number of us rode up to the settlement to
witness a dance that had been announced to take place in the
schoolhouse, tabernacle, or town hall--the stone building in the corner
of the fort which answered all these functions. The room was about 15 by
30 feet and was lighted by three candles, a kerosene lamp, and a blazing
fire of pitch pine. Two violins were in lively operation, one being
played by Lyman Hamblin, a son of Old Jacob, and there was a refreshing
air of decorous gaiety about the whole assemblage. Dancing is a regular
amusement among the Mormons and is encouraged by the authorities as a
harmless and beneficial recreation. At that time the dances were always
opened with prayer. Two sets could occupy the floor at one time and to
even things up, and prevent any one being left out, each man on entering
was given a number, the numbers being called in rotation. None of our
party joined as we were such strangers, but we were made welcome in
every respect. It was ten o'clock before we left, and the way being dim
and muddy, midnight was on before we threw off saddles at our camp.

The next morning work was begun on the base line, but for some days the
weather was so bad that little was accomplished. The year 1871 ended in
this way and we hoped the new one would be more propitious.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 24: Five years later Jacob came near being drowned in crossing
here. Lorenzo W. Roundy was lost, as well as two waggons loaded with
supplies. The scow they had tried to use tilted, throwing everything
into the fierce torrent.]

[Footnote 25: It was in the rapid in Marble Canyon near the mouth of the
canyon of this creek that Frank M. Brown was drowned in July, 1889.]

[Footnote 26: _Jacob Hamblin_, a Narrative, etc. Faith-promoting
Series--Juvenile Instructor Office, Salt Lake City--1881.]

[Footnote 27: In 1864 the danger from the Pai Utes, who had not been
well treated, increased till Jacob had to take the matter in hand and
made a visit to the place where they were gathering for attack. He was
asked how many men he wanted to go with him, and he answered, "One, and
no arms; not even a knife in sight."]

CHAPTER XII

Reconnoitring and Triangulating--A Pai Ute New Year's
Dance--The Major Goes to Salt Lake--Snowy Days on the
Kaibab--At Pipe Spring--Gold Hunters to the Colorado--Visits
to the Uinkaret Country--Craters and Lava--Finding the
Hurricane Ledge--An Interview with a Cougar--Back to Kanab.

New-year's day, 1872, passed with nothing more eventful than the return
of John Stewart in advance of the Major with the news that they had
succeeded in reaching the Colorado at the foot of Kanab Canyon. They had
given up the Kaibab direction because of snow which interfered with
their advance. He also said that Riley had found gold at the mouth of
the Kanab. The telegraph operator was so deeply impressed with this
statement that it was telegraphed as an item of news to Salt Lake. Work
on the base line went on daily by our topographical staff, but presently
it was turned over to a special gang under Captain Dodds, so that the
rest of us might be freed to carry on the triangulation. On Monday the
15th, Prof., Jones, Mac, and I started with some pack animals on a ten
days' reconnaissance trip over the Kaibab, first going to Kanab for some
supplies and taking dinner with Jacob at the house of his wife Louisa.
According to the Mormon custom, though it was not universal, Jacob had
several wives, I do not know how many. I met two, and he was besides
that "sealed" to one or two Pai Ute women. Sister Louisa was the one I
came to know best and she was a good woman. We had an excellent dinner
with rich cream for the coffee which was an unusual treat. In all Mormon
settlements the domestic animals were incorporated at once and they
received special care; butter, milk, and cheese were consequently
abundant; but in a "Gentile" frontier town all milk, if procurable at
all, was drawn from a sealed tin. The same was true of vegetables. The
empty tin was the chief decoration of such advance settlements, and with
the entire absence of any attempt at arrangement, at order, or to start
fruit or shade trees, or do any other sensible thing, the "Gentile"
frontier town was a ghastly hodge-podge of shacks in the midst of a sea
of refuse. As pioneers the Mormons were superior to any class I have
ever come in contact with, their idea being home-making and not skimming
the cream off the country with a six-shooter and a whiskey bottle.
Jacob's home was simple but it was comfortable. He was a poor man for he
did his work for the people with very slight compensation.

[Illustration: The Grand Canyon.

From Part Way down South Side above Bright Angel Creek.]

From Jacob's we proceeded to our old camp ground at Eight-Mile Spring
and there spent the night. Prof. had forgotten his sextant and rode back
to our main camp for it. We continued in the morning without him to a
place farther east called Navajo Well, a deep spring in a sort of
natural hole, somewhat aided by native hands, in the midst of some
sloping, barren rocks, the last spot where one would look for water. A
large flat stone covered the top, the water being dipped out at one side
where there was a depression leading down to it. A careless man, or one
not familiar with the country, might ride within a few yards of this
spring without noticing its existence. Prof. came along towards night
and the next day we went on eastward to the top of the Kaibab Plateau
and there put up a geodetic monument. Here we made a dry camp having
water for ourselves in a keg and some canteens, while the animals got
along very well as there was a little snow on the ground. Proceeding
from this place eastward we came to the edge of the plateau opposite
the largest of a series of four or five peculiar red sandstone peaks.
The Mormons had explored a waggon road across at this place and the
grades were easy. We followed the road and reached House Rock Valley
about ten miles north of House Rock Spring where we went to get water
and camp. We had started late and by the time we got down into the
valley darkness had fallen but a bright moon compensated for the absence
of daylight, enabling us to see plainly our landmarks. We jogged along
toward the spring and I sang _Oh the Lone Starry Hours, Give Me Love_,
when I was suddenly interrupted by old Thunderbolt's pack loosening.
Thunderbolt was a horse that waited for such an event with remarkable
docility and when it arrived he made the best of the opportunity to get
even with us for drawing the lash-rope so tight. Before I could dismount
and lay hands on him the pack slipped back over his rump which was the
signal he watched for. Joyously flinging his heels in the moonlit air,
jumping high off the ground the next instant, and then darting off into
the misty night with a clatter and a whirl he spread the contents of
that pack to all points of the compass. This revenge adequately
accomplished we were permitted to catch him. A long search was necessary
before we had gathered up all the things and replaced the pack on the
now meek and patient Thunderbolt, and half-past eight by the watch
arrived as we got to water and supper.

We put up another "station" back of House Rock Spring and spent a day
reconnoitring. On Sunday, January 21st, we went to Red Cliff and made a
camp under some cedars, as we wished to put a station on the highest
peak. The camp was a dry one, but we had the usual supply of water in
the keg and canteens, and as the temperature was very low we did not get
thirsty. There was an abundance of wood for the camp, but Mac and I
concluded we wanted more warmth and light, so we set fire to two large
cedars that stood alone, and they made a superb illumination, burning
all night. In the morning we got to the top of the cliff, and built a
monument, with a high pole and flag, to which to "sight" from other
geodetic points, while Prof. took observations for time and latitude.
When our work was finished we went back to House Rock Spring, arriving
just before sunset. In the morning Jones and I went across and climbed
the Kaibab, intending to put up a monument there, but we could find no
proper site and returned to camp. Prof. and Mac had been off in another
direction, but they got in just before supper-time. We had not
finished this meal when, night having come on, we heard through the
darkness sounds of some one approaching, and thirteen Navajos one after
the other came into the light of our fire, with their greeting of "Bueno
heh!" and camped just below us. Some were mounted, some were on foot.
The chief was Ashtishkal, whom we had met before at the Crossing of the
Fathers (El Vado). They were all friendly, and did not intrude upon us.
They were on their way north to trade with the Mormons, having come
across at the Paria. The night was very cold, and a heavy, dry snow
began to fall, so that in the morning when we arose we could see but a
short distance. The Navajos about sunrise stood silently in a circle
till at a signal they all sat down and began singing, continuing for
several minutes a low musical refrain, and then all rose to their feet
again. They left us early, with friendly demonstrations, and went on
their way towards Kanab, while we moved to another spring in a gulch
farther up the valley, where we made a tent out of a pair of blankets to
keep off the snow. During the stormy night our animals started to leave
us, travelling before the wind, but we suspected their intention and got
out and headed them back, much to their disgust, no doubt. Thursday,
January 25th, came bright and clear, but still extremely cold. Prof.
with Mac started across the Kaibab by the trail, while Jones and I went
farther north by the waggon road referred to, camping near the station
we had made on the way out. The next morning we did some work there, and
then went on to the Navajo Well, reaching it at sunset, where we watered
our stock and continued by moonlight through a piercing wind to
Eight-Mile Spring, which enabled us to reach our main camp in time for
dinner on Saturday the 27th. Prof. got back the evening before at 7.30,
having made another station on the Kaibab on the way over and travelled
twenty-five miles.

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