Laurence Sterne - "A Political Romance"

Henry Woodcock - "The Hero of the Humber"

Georges Jacques Danton - "Discours civiques de Danton"

Various - "Scientific American Supplement, No. 385, May 19, 1883"

Annual Bibliography of Commonwealth Literature 2007
This paper argues that discourses of love in Ghanaian market literature for youth offer a view into complex negotiations of agency and empowerment. Drawing on Deborah Durham's notion of youth as "social `shifters'" and Francis Nyamnjoh's conception of the "interconnectedness" of agency, I take Ghanaian market literature as one specific case of how African literature for youth foregrounds questions of continuity and change as African societies enter into increasingly complex global relations. In this literature for youth, received notions of love, often constructed out of impressions from American pop and hip hop music, carry new notions of agency that compete with existing "domesticated" forms. Authors like Ike Tandoh and Evelyn Tay employ discourses of love to offer youth alternative avenues for empowerment in a context of socio-economic disenfranchizement. In a creative process of "straddling", this writing both reveals and reproduces the contradictions that obtain in youth configurations of agency.

Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches

E >> Eliza Leslie >> Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches







VEAL.


GENERAL REMARKS.

The fore-quarter of a calf comprises the neck, breast, and
shoulder: the hind-quarter consists of the loin, fillet, and
knuckle. Separate dishes are made of the head, heart, liver, and
sweet-bread. The flesh of good veal is firm and dry, and the joints
stiff. The lean is of a very light delicate red, and the fat quite
white. In buying the head see that the eyes look full, plump, and
lively; if they are dull and sunk the calf has been killed too
long. In buying calves' feet for jelly or soup, endeavour to get
those that have been singed only and not skinned; as a great deal
of gelatinous substance is contained in the skin. Veal should
always be thoroughly cooked, and never brought to table rare or
under-done, like beef or mutton. The least redness in the meat or
gravy is disgusting.

Veal suet may be used as a substitute for that of beef; also veal-dripping.


TO ROAST A LOIN OF VEAL.

The loin is the best part of the calf. It is always roasted. See
that your fire is clear and hot, and broad enough to brown both
ends. Cover the fat of the kidney and the back with paper to
prevent it from scorching. A large loin of veal will require _at
least_ four hours and a half to roast it sufficiently. At first
set the roaster at a tolerable distance from the fire that the
meat may heat gradually in the beginning; afterwards place it
nearer. Put a little salt and water into the dripping-pan and
baste the meat with it till the gravy begins to drop. Then baste
with the gravy. When the meat is nearly done, move it close to the
fire, dredge it with a very little flour, and baste it with
butter. Skim the fat from the gravy, which should be thickened by
shaking in a very small quantify of flour. Put it into a small
sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals. Let it just come to a boil,
and then send it to table in a boat. If the gravy is not in
sufficient quantity, add to it about half a jill or a large wine-glass
of boiling water.

In carving a loin of veal help every one to a piece of the kidney
as far as it will go.


TO ROAST A BREAST OF VEAL.

A breast of veal will require about three hours and a half to
roast. In preparing it for the spit, cover it with the caul, and
skewer the sweet-bread to the back. Take off the caul when the meat
is nearly done. The breast, being comparatively tough and coarse,
is less esteemed than the loin and the fillet.


TO ROAST A FILLET OF VEAL.

Take out the bone, and secure with skewers the fat flap to the
outside of the meat. Prepare a stuffing of fresh butter or suet
minced fine, and an equal quantity of grated bread-crumbs, a large
table-spoonful of grated lemon-peel, a table-spoonful of sweet
marjoram chopped or rubbed to powder, a nutmeg grated, and a
little pepper and salt, with a sprig of chopped parsley. Mix all
these ingredients with beaten yolk of egg, and stuff the place
from whence the bone was taken. Make deep cuts or incisions all
over the top of the veal, and fill them with some of the stuffing.
You may stick into each hole an inch of fat ham or salt pork, cut
very thin.

Having papered the fat, spit the veal and put it into the roaster,
keeping it at first not too near the fire. Put a little salt and
water into the dripping-pan, and for awhile baste the meat with
it. Then baste it with its own gravy. A fillet of veal will
require four hours roasting. As it proceeds, place it nearer to
the fire. Half an hour before it is done, remove the paper, and
baste the meat with butter, having first dredged it very lightly
with flour. Having skimmed the gravy, mix some thin melted butter
with it.

If convenient, you may in making the stuffing, use a large
proportion of chopped mushrooms that have been preserved in sweet
oil, or of chopped pickled oysters. Cold ham shred fine will
improve it.

You may stuff a fillet of veal entirely with sausage meat.

To accompany a fillet of veal, the usual dish is boiled ham or
bacon.

A shoulder of veal may be stuffed and roasted in a similar manner.


TO STEW A BREAST OF VEAL.

Divide the breast into pieces according to the position of the
bones. Put them into a stew-pan with a few slices of ham, some
whole pepper, a bunch of parsley, and a large onion quartered. Add
sufficient water to keep it from burning, and let it stew slowly
till the meat is quite tender. Then put to it a quart or more of
green peas that have boiled twenty minutes in another pot, and a
piece of butter rolled in flour. Let all stew together a quarter
of an hour longer. Serve it up, with the veal in the middle, the
peas round it, and the ham laid on the peas.

You may stew a breast of veal with tomatas.


TO STEW A FILLET OF VEAL.

Take a fillet of veal, rub it with salt, and then with a sharp
knife make deep incisions all over the surface, the bottom as well
as the top and sides. Make a stuffing of grated stale bread,
butter, chopped sweet marjoram, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper
and salt, mixed up with beaten yolk of egg to bind and give it
consistency. Fill the holes or incisions with the stuffing,
pressing it down well with your fingers. Reserve some of the
stuffing to rub all over the outside of the meat. Have ready some
very thin slices of cold boiled ham, the fatter the better. Cover
the veal with them, fastening them on with skewers. Put it into a
pot, and stew it slowly in a very little water, just enough to
cover it. It will take at least five hours to stew; or more, in
proportion to its size. When done, take off the ham, and lay it
round the veal in a dish.

You may stew with it a quart or three pints of young green peas,
put in about an hour before dinner; add to them a little butter
and pepper while they are stewing. Serve them up in the dish with
the veal, laying the slices of ham upon them.

If you omit the ham, stew the veal entirely in lard.


TO STEW A KNUCKLE OF VEAL.

Lay four wooden skewers across the bottom of your stew-pan, and
place the meat upon them; having first carefully washed it, and
rubbed it with salt. Add a table-spoonful of whole pepper, the
leaves from a bunch of sweet marjoram, a bunch of parsley leaves
chopped, two onions peeled and sliced, and a piece of butter
rolled in flour. Pour in two quarts of water. Cover it closely,
and after it has come to a boil, lessen the fire, and let the meat
only simmer for two hours or more. Before you serve it up, pour
the liquid over it.

This dish will be greatly improved by stewing with it a few slices
of ham, or the remains of a cold ham.

Veal when simply boiled is too insipid. To stew it is much better.


VEAL CUTLETS.

The best cutlets are those taken from the leg or fillet. Cut them
about half an inch thick, and as large as the palm of your hand.
Season them with pepper and salt. Grate some stale bread, and rub
it through a cullender, adding to it chopped sweet marjoram,
grated lemon-peel, and some powdered mace or nutmeg. Spread the
mixture on a large flat dish. Have ready in a pan some beaten egg.
First dip each cutlet into the egg, and then into the seasoning on
the dish, seeing that a sufficient quantity adheres to both sides
of the meat. Melt in your frying-pan, over a quick fire, some
beef-dripping, lard, or fresh butter, and when it boils lay your
cutlets in it, and fry them thoroughly; turning them on both
sides, and taking care that they do not burn. Place them in a
covered dish near the fire, while you finish the gravy in the pan,
by first skimming it, and then shaking in a little flour and
stirring it round. Pour the gravy hot round the cutlets, and
garnish with little bunches of curled parsley.

You may mix with the bread crumbs a little saffron.


VEAL STEAKS.

Cut a neck of veal into thin steaks, and beat them to make them
tender. For seasoning, mix together some finely chopped onion
sprinkled with pepper and salt, and a little chopped parsley. Add
some butter, and put it with the parsley and onion into a small
sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals to stew till brown. In the
mean, time, put the steaks on a hot gridiron (the bars of which
have been rubbed with suet) and broil them well, over a bed of
bright clear coals. When sufficiently done on one side turn them
on the other. After the last turning, cover each steak with some
of the seasoning from the sauce-pan, and let all broil together
till thoroughly done.

Instead of the onions and parsley, you may season the veal steaks
with chopped mushrooms, or with chopped oysters, browned in
butter.

Have ready a gravy made of the scraps and trimmings of the veal,
seasoned with pepper and salt, and boiled in a little hot water in
the same sauce-pan in which the parsley and onions have been
previously stewed. Strain the gravy when it has boiled long
enough, and flavour it with catchup.


MINCED VEAL.

Take some cold veal, cut it into slices, and mince it very finely
with a chopping-knife. Season it to your taste with pepper, salt,
sweet marjoram rubbed fine, grated lemon-peel and nutmeg. Put the
bones and trimmings into a sauce-pan with a little water, and
simmer them over hot coals to extract the gravy from them. Then
put the minced veal into a stew-pan, strain the gravy over it, add
a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a little milk or cream. Let
it all simmer together till thoroughly warmed, but do not allow it
to boil lest the meat having been once cooked already, should
become tasteless. When you serve it up, have ready some three-cornered
pieces of bread toasted and buttered; place them all
round the inside of the dish.

Or you may cover the mince with a thick layer of grated bread,
moistened with a little butter, and browned on the top with a
salamander, or a red hot shovel.


VEAL PATTIES.

Mince very fine a pound of the lean of cold roast veal, and half a
pound of cold boiled ham, (fat and lean equally mixed.) Put it
into a stew-pan with three ounces of butter divided into bits and
rolled in flour, a jill of cream, and a jill of veal gravy. Season
it to your taste with cayenne pepper and nutmeg, grated lemon-peel,
and lemon-juice. Set the pan on hot coals, and let the
ingredients simmer till well warmed, stirring them well to prevent
their burning.

Have ready baked some small shells of puff-paste. Fill them with
the mixture, and eat the patties either warm or cold.


VEAL PIE.

Take two pounds of veal cut from the loin, fillet, or the best end
of the neck. Remove the bone, fat, and skin, and put them into a
sauce-pan with half a pint of water to stew for the gravy. Make a
good paste, allowing a pound of butter to two pounds of flour.
Divide it into two pieces, roll it out rather thick and cover with
one piece the sides and bottom of a deep dish. Put in a layer of
veal, seasoned with pepper and salt, then a layer of cold ham
sliced thin, then more veal, more ham, and so on till the dish is
full; interspersing the meat with yolks of eggs boiled hard. If
you can procure some small button mushrooms they will be found an
improvement. Pour in, at the last, the gravy you have drawn from
the trimmings, and put on the lid of the pie, notching the edge
handsomely, and ornamenting the centre with a flower made of
paste. Bake the pie at least two hours and a half.

You may make a very plain veal pie simply of veal chops, sliced
onions, and potatoes pared and quartered. Season with pepper and
salt, and fill up the dish with water.


CALF'S HEAD DREST PLAIN

Wash the head in warm water. Then lay it in clean hot water and
let it soak awhile. This will blanch it. Take out the brains and
the black part of the eyes. Tie the head in a cloth, and put it
into a large fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water, and add some
salt to throw up the scum, which must be taken off as it rises.
Let the head boil gently about three hours.

Put eight or ten sage leaves, and as much parsley, into a small
sauce-pan with a little water, and boil them half an hour. Then
chop them fine, and set them ready on a plate. Wash the brains
well in two warm waters, and then soak them for an hour in a basin
of cold water with a little salt in it. Remove the skin and
strings, and then put the brains into a stew-pan with plenty of
cold water, and let them boil gently for a quarter of an hour,
skimming them well. Take them out, chop them, and mix them with
the sage and parsley leaves, two table-spoonfuls of melted butter,
and the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, and pepper and salt to
your taste. Then put the mixture into a sauce-pan and set it on
coals to warm.

Take up the head when it is sufficiently boiled, score it in
diamonds, brush it all over with beaten egg, and strew it with a
mixture of grated bread-crumbs, and chopped sage and parsley.
Stick a few bits of butter over it, and set it in a Dutch oven to
brown. Serve it up with the brains laid round it. Or you may send
to table the brains and the tongue in a small separate dish,
having first trimmed the tongue and cut off the roots. Have also
parsley-sauce in a boat. You may garnish with very thin small
slices of broiled ham, curled up.

If you get a calf's head with the hair on, sprinkle it all over
with pounded rosin, and dip it into boiling water. This will make
the hairs scrape off easily.


CALF'S HEAD HASHED.

Take a calf's head and a set of feet, and boil them until tender,
having first removed the brains. Then cut the flesh off the head
and feet in slices from the bone, and put both meat and bones into
a stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, some sliced onions, and
pepper and salt to your taste; also a large piece of butter rolled
in flour, and a little water. After it has stewed awhile slowly
till the flavour is well extracted from the herbs and onions, take
out the meat, season it a little with cayenne pepper, and lay it
in a dish. Strain the gravy in which it was stewed, and stir into
it two glasses of madeira, and the juice and grated peel of a
lemon. Having poured some of the gravy over the meat, lay a piece
of butter on the top, set it in an oven and bake it brown.

In the mean time, having cleaned and washed the brains (skinning
them and removing the strings) parboil them in a sauce-pan, and
then make them into balls with chopped sweet herbs, grated bread-crumbs,
grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, and beaten yolk of egg. Fry
them in lard and butter mixed; and send them to table laid round
the meat (which should have the tongue placed on the top) and
garnish with sliced lemon. Warm the remaining gravy in a small
sauce-pan on hot coals, and stir into it the beaten yolk of an egg
a minute before you take it from the fire. Send it to table in a
boat.


CHITTERLINGS OR CALF'S TRIPE.

See that the chitterlings are very nice and white. Wash them, cut
them into pieces, and put them into a stew-pan with pepper and
salt to your taste, and about two quarts of water. Boil them two
hours or more. In the mean time, peel eight or ten white onions,
and throw them whole into a sauce-pan with plenty of water. Boil
them slowly till quite soft; then drain them in a cullender, and
mash them. Wipe out your sauce-pan, and put in the mashed onions
with a piece of butter, two table-spoonfuls of cream or rich milk,
some nutmeg, and a very little salt. Sprinkle in a little flour,
set the pan on hot coals (keeping it well covered) and give it one
boil up.

When the chitterlings are quite tender all through, take them up
and drain them. Place in the bottom of a dish a slice or two of
buttered toast with all the crust cut off. Lay the chitterlings on
the toast, and send them to table with the stewed onions in a
sauce-boat. When you take the chitterlings on your plate season
them with pepper and vinegar.

This, if properly prepared, is a very nice dish.


TO FRY CALF'S FEET.

Having first boiled them till tender, cut them in two, and (having
taken out the large bones) season the feet with pepper and salt,
and dredge them well with flour. Strew some chopped parsley or
sweet marjoram over them, and fry them of a light brown in lard or
butter. Serve them up with parsley-sauce.


TO FRY CALF'S LIVER.

Cut the liver into thin slices. Season it with pepper, salt,
chopped sweet herbs, and parsley. Dredge it with flour, and fry it
brown in lard or dripping. See that it is thoroughly done before
you send it to table. Serve it up with its own gravy.

Some slices of cold boiled ham fried with it will be found an
improvement.

You may dress a calf's heart in the same manner.


LARDED CALF'S LIVER.

Take a calf's liver and wash it well. Cut into long slips the fat
of some bacon or salt pork, and insert it all through the surface
of the liver by means of a larding-pin. Put the liver into a pot
with a table-spoonful of lard, a little water, and a few tomatas,
or some tomata catchup; adding one large or two small onions
minced fine, and some sweet marjoram leaves rubbed very fine. The
sweet marjoram will crumble more easily if you first dry it before
the fire on a plate.

Having put in all these ingredients, set the pot on hot coals in
the corner of the fire-place, and keep it stewing, regularly and
slowly, for four hours. Send the liver to table with the gravy
round it.


TO ROAST SWEET-BREADS.

Take four fine sweet-breads, and having trimmed them nicely,
parboil them, and then lay them in a pan of cold water till they
become cool. Afterwards dry them in a cloth. Put some butter into
a sauce-pan, set it on hot coals, and melt and skim it. When it is
quite clear, take it off. Have ready some beaten egg in one dish,
and some grated bread-crumbs in another. Skewer each sweet-bread,
and fasten them on a spit. Then glaze them all over with egg, and
sprinkle them with bread-crumbs. Spread on some of the clarified
butter, and then another coat of crumbs. Roast them before a clear
fire, at least a quarter of an hour. Have ready some nice veal
gravy flavoured with lemon-juice, and pour it round the sweet-breads
before you send them to table.


LARDED SWEET-BREADS.

Parboil three or four of the largest sweet-breads you can get.
This should be done as soon as they are brought in, as few things
spoil more rapidly if not cooked at once. When half boiled, lay
them in cold water. Prepare a force-meat of grated bread, lemon-peel,
butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg mixed with beaten yolk of
egg. Cut open the sweet-breads and stuff them with it, fastening
them afterwards with a skewer, or tying them round with
packthread. Have ready some slips of bacon-fat, and some slips of
lemon-peel cut about the thickness of very small straws. Lard the
sweet-breads with them in alternate rows of bacon and lemon-peel,
drawing them through with a larding-needle. Do it regularly and
handsomely. Then put the sweet-breads into a Dutch oven, and bake
them brown. Serve them up with veal gravy flavoured with a glass
of Madeira, and enriched with beaten yolk of egg stirred in at the
last.


MARBLED VEAL.

Having boiled and skinned two fine smoked tongues, cut them to
pieces and pound them to a paste in a mortar, moistening them with
plenty of butter as you proceed. Have ready an equal quantity of
the lean of veal stewed and cut into very small pieces. Pound the
veal also in a mortar, adding butter to it by degrees. The tongue
and veal must be kept separate till both have been pounded. Then
fill your potting cans with lumps of the veal and tongue, pressed
down hard, and so placed, that when cut, the mixture will look
variegated or marbled. Close the cans with veal; again press it
down very hard, and finish by pouring on clarified butter. Cover
the cans closely, and keep them in a dry place. It maybe eaten at
tea or supper. Send it to table cut in slices.

You may use it for sandwiches.




MUTTON AND LAMB.


GENERAL REMARKS.

The fore-quarter of a sheep contains the neck, breast, and
shoulder; and the hind-quarter the loin and leg. The two loins
together are called the chine or saddle. The flesh of good mutton
is of a bright red, and a close grain, and the fat firm and quite
white. The meat will feel tender and springy when you squeeze it
with your fingers. The vein in the neck of the fore-quarter should
be of a fine blue.

Lamb is always roasted; generally a whole quarter at once. In
carving lamb, the first thing done is to separate the shoulder
from the breast, or the leg from the loin.

If the weather is cold enough to allow it, mutton is more tender
after being kept a few days.


TO ROAST MUTTON.

Mutton should be roasted with a quick brisk fire. Every part
should be trimmed off that cannot be eaten. Wash the meat well.
The skin should be taken off and skewered on again before the meat
is put on the spit; this will make it more juicy. Otherwise tie
paper over the fat, having soaked the twine in water to prevent
the string from burning. Put a little salt and water into the
dripping-pan, to baste the meat at first, then use its own gravy
for that purpose. A quarter of an hour before you think it will be
done, take off the skin or paper, dredge the meat very lightly
with flour, and baste it with butter. Skim the gravy and send it
to table in a boat. A leg of mutton will require from two hours
roasting to two hours and a half in proportion to its size. A
chine or saddle, from two hours and a half, to three hours. A
shoulder, from an hour and a half, to two hours. A loin, from an
hour and three quarters, to two hours. A haunch (that is a leg
with, part of the loin) cannot be well roasted in less than four
hours.

Always have some currant jelly on the table to eat with roast
mutton. It should also be accompanied by mashed turnips.

Slices cut from a cold leg of mutton that has been under-done, are
very nice broiled or warmed on a gridiron, and sent to the
breakfast table covered with currant jelly.

Pickles are always eaten with mutton.

In preparing a leg of mutton for roasting, you may make deep
incisions in it, and stuff them with chopped oysters, or with a
force-meat made in the usual manner; or with chestnuts parboiled
and peeled. The gravy will be improved by stirring into it a glass
of port wine.


TO BOIL MUTTON.

To prepare a leg of mutton for boiling, wash it clean, cut a small
piece off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle. Put it into a pot
with water enough to cover it, and boil it gently for three hours,
skimming it well. Then take it from the fire, and keeping the pot
well covered, let it finish by remaining in the steam for ten or
fifteen minutes. Serve it up with a sauce-boat of melted butter
into which a tea-cup full of capers or nasturtians have been
stirred.

Have mashed turnips to eat with it.

A few small onions boiled in the water with the mutton are thought
by some to improve the flavour of the meat. It is much better when
sufficient time is allowed to boil or simmer it slowly.

A neck or a loin of mutton will require also about three hours
slow boiling. These pieces should on no account be sent to table
the least under-done. Serve up with them carrots and whole
turnips. You may add a dish of suet dumplings to eat with the
meat, made of finely chopped suet mixed with double its quantity
of flour, and a little cold water.


MUTTON CHOPS.

Take chops or steaks from a loin of mutton, cut off the bone close
to the meat, and trim off the skin, and part of the fat. Beat them
to make them tender, and season them with pepper and salt. Make
your gridiron hot over a bed of clear bright coals; rub the bars
with suet, and lay on the chops. Turn them frequently; and if the
fat that falls from them causes a blaze and smoke, remove the
gridiron for a moment till it is over. When they are thoroughly
done, put them into a warm dish and butter them. Keep them covered
till a moment before they are to be eaten.

When the chops have been turned for the last time, you may strew
over them some finely minced onion moistened with boiling water,
and seasoned with pepper.

Some like them flavoured with mushroom catchup.

Another way of dressing mutton chops is, after trimming them
nicely and seasoning them with pepper and salt, to lay them for
awhile in melted butter. When they have imbibed a sufficient
quantity, take them out, and cover them all over with grated
bread-crumbs. Broil them over a clear fire, and see that the bread
does not burn.


CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON.

Cut a neck of mutton into steaks with a bone in each; trim them
nicely, and scrape clean the end of the bone. Flatten them with a
rolling pin, or a meat beetle, and lay them in oiled butter. Make
a seasoning of hard-boiled yolk of egg and sweet-herbs minced
small, grated bread, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and, if you choose,
a little minced onion. Take the chops out of the butter, and cover
them with the seasoning. Butter some half sheets of white paper,
and put the cutlets into them, so as to be entirely covered,
securing the paper with pins or strings; and twisting them nicely
round the bone. Heat your gridiron over some bright lively coals.
Lay the cutlets on it, and broil them about twenty minutes. The
custom of sending them to table in the papers had best be omitted,
as (unless managed by a French cook) these envelopes, after being
on the gridiron, make a very bad appearance.

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