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Annual Bibliography of Commonwealth Literature 2007
This paper argues that discourses of love in Ghanaian market literature for youth offer a view into complex negotiations of agency and empowerment. Drawing on Deborah Durham's notion of youth as "social `shifters'" and Francis Nyamnjoh's conception of the "interconnectedness" of agency, I take Ghanaian market literature as one specific case of how African literature for youth foregrounds questions of continuity and change as African societies enter into increasingly complex global relations. In this literature for youth, received notions of love, often constructed out of impressions from American pop and hip hop music, carry new notions of agency that compete with existing "domesticated" forms. Authors like Ike Tandoh and Evelyn Tay employ discourses of love to offer youth alternative avenues for empowerment in a context of socio-economic disenfranchizement. In a creative process of "straddling", this writing both reveals and reproduces the contradictions that obtain in youth configurations of agency.

Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches

E >> Eliza Leslie >> Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches

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For the veal or mutton you may substitute a pair of large fowls
cut into pieces; always adding the ham or a few slices of bacon,
without which it will be insipid. Old fowls that are fit for no
other purpose will do very well for soup.


MILK SOUP.

Boil two quarts of milk with a quarter of a pound of sweet
almonds, and two ounces of bitter ones, blanched and broken to
pieces, and a large stick of cinnamon broken up. Stir in sugar
enough to make it very sweet. When it has boiled strain it. Cut
some thin slices of bread, and (having pared off the crust) toast
them. Lay them in the bottom of a tureen, pour a little of the hot
milk over them, and cover them close, that they may soak. Beat the
yolks of five eggs very light Set the milk on hot coals, and add
the eggs to it by degrees; stirring it all the time till it
thickens. Then take it off instantly, lest it curdle, and pour it
into the tureen, boiling hot, over the bread.

This will be still better if you cover the bottom with slices of
baked apple.


RICH BROWN SOUP.

Take six pounds of the lean of fresh beef, cut from the bone.
Stick it over with four dozen cloves. Season it with a tea-spoonful
of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful of
mace, and a beaten nutmeg. Slice half a dozen onions; fry them in
butter; chop them, and spread them over the meat after you have
put it into the soup-pot. Pour in five quarts of water, and stew
it slowly for five or six hours; skimming it well. When the meat
has dissolved into shreds, strain it, and return the liquid to the
pot. Then add a tumbler and a half, or six wine glasses of claret
or port wine. Simmer it again slowly till dinner time. When the
soup is reduced to three quarts, it is done enough. Put it into a
tureen, and send it to table.


RICH WHITE SOUP.

Take a pair of large fat fowls. Cut them up. Butter the inside of
the soup-pot, and put in the pieces of fowl with two pounds of the
lean of veal, cut into pieces, or with four calf's feet cut in
half. Season them with a tea-spoonful of salt, a half tea-spoonful
of cayenne pepper, and a dozen blades of mace. Cover them with
water, and stew it slowly for an hour, skimming it well. Then take
out the breasts and wings of the fowls, and having cut off the
flesh, chop it fine. Keep the pot covered, and the veal and the
remainder of the fowls still stewing.

Mix the chopped chicken with the grated crumb of about one quarter
of a loaf of stale bread, (a six cent loaf,) having soaked the
crumbs in a little warm milk. Have ready the yolks of four hard
boiled eggs, a dozen sweet almonds, and half a dozen bitter ones
blanched and broken small. Mix the egg and almonds with the
chopped chicken and grated bread, and pound all in a mortar till
it is well incorporated. Strain the soup from the meat and fowl,
and stir this mixture into the liquid, after it has stewed till
reduced to two quarts. Having boiled separately a quart of cream
or rich milk, add it hot to the soup, a little at a time. Cover
it, and let it simmer a few minutes longer. Then send it to table.

These two soups (the brown and the white) are suited to dinner
parties.


MEG MERRILIES' SOUP.

Take four pounds of venison, or if you cannot procure venison you
may substitute the lean of fresh beef or mutton. Season it with
pepper and salt, put it into a large pot, (break the bones and lay
them on the meat,) pour in four quarts of water, and boil it three
hours, skimming it well. Then strain it, and put it into another
pot.

Cut up a hare or a rabbit, a pair of partridges, and a pair of
grouse; or one of each, with a pheasant, a woodcock, or any other
game that you can most easily obtain. Season them and put them
into the soup. Add a dozen small onions, a couple of heads of
celery cut small, and half a dozen sliced potatoes. Let the soup
simmer till the game is sufficiently done, and all the vegetables
tender.

This is the soup with which the gipsy, Meg Merrilies, regaled
Dominie Sampson.

When game is used for soup, it must be newly killed, and quite
fresh.


VENISON SOUP.

Take four pounds of freshly killed venison cut off from the bones,
and one pound of ham in small slices. Add an onion minced, and
black pepper to your taste. Put only as much water as will cover
it, and stew it gently for an hour, keeping the pot closely
covered. Then skim it well, and pour in a quart of boiling water.
Add a head of celery cut into small pieces, and half a dozen
blades of mace. Boil it gently two hours and a half. Then put in a
quarter of a pound of butter, divided into small pieces and rolled
in flour, and half a pint of port or Madeira wine. Let it boil a
quarter of an hour longer, and then send it to table with the meat
in it.


HARE OR RABBIT SOUP.

Take a large newly killed hare, or two rabbits; cut them up and
wash the pieces. Save all the blood, (which adds much to the
flavour of the hare,) and strain it through a sieve. Put the
pieces into a soup-pot with four whole onions stuck with a few
cloves, four or five blades of mace, a head of celery cut small,
and a bunch of parsley with a large sprig of sweet marjoram and
one of sweet basil, all tied together. Salt and cayenne to your
taste. Pour in three quarts of water, and stew it gently an hour
and a half. Then put in the strained blood and simmer it for
another hour, at least. Do not let it actually boil, as that will
cause the blood to curdle. Then strain it, and pound half the meat
in a mortar, and stir it into the soup to thicken it, and cut the
remainder of the meat into small mouthfuls. Stir in, at the last,
a jill or two glasses of red wine, and a large table-spoonful of
currant jelly. Boil it slowly a few minutes longer, and then put
it into your tureen. It will be much improved by the addition of
about a dozen and a half small force-meat balls, about the size of
a nutmeg. This soup will require cooking at least four hours.

Partridge, pheasant, or grouse soup may be made in a similar
manner.

If you have any clear gravy soup, you may cut up the hare, season
it as above, and put it into a jug or jar well covered, and set in
boiling water till the meat is tender. Then put it into the gravy
soup, add the wine, and let it come to a boil. Send it to table
with the pieces of the hare in the soup.

When hare soup is made in this last manner, omit using the blood.


MULLAGATAWNY SOUP, AS MADE IN INDIA.

Take a quarter of an ounce of China turmeric, the third of an
ounce of cassia, three drachms of black pepper, two drachms of
cayenne pepper, and an ounce of coriander seeds. These must all be
pounded fine in a mortar, and well mixed and sifted. They will
make sufficient curry powder for the following quantity of soup:

Take two large fowls, or three pounds of the lean of veal. Cut the
flesh entirely from the bones in small pieces, and put it into a
stew-pan with two quarts of water. Let it boil slowly for half an
hour, skimming it well. Prepare four large onions, minced and
fried in two ounces of butter. Add to them the curry powder and
moisten the whole with broth from the stew-pan, mixed with a
little rice flour. When thoroughly mixed, stir the seasoning into
the soup, and simmer it till it is as smooth and thick as cream,
and till the chicken or veal is perfectly tender. Then stir into
it the juice of a lemon; and five minutes after take up the soup,
with the meat in it, and serve it in the tureen.

Send to table separately, boiled rice on a hot-water dish to keep
it warm, The rice is to be put into the plates of soup by those
who eat it.

To boil rice for this soup in the East India fashion:--Pick and
wash half a pound in warm water. Put it into a sauce-pan. Pour two
quarts of boiling water over it, and cover the pan closely. Set it
in a warm place by the fire, to cook gradually in the hot water.
In an hour pour off all the water, and setting the pan on hot
coals, stir up and toss the rice with a fork, so as to separate
the grains, and to dry without hardening it. Do not use a spoon,
as that will not loosen the grains sufficiently.


MOCK TURTLE OR CALF'S HEAD SOUP.

This soup will require eight hours to prepare. Take a large calf's
head, and having cleaned, washed, and soaked it, put it into a pot
with a knuckle of veal, and the hock of a ham, or a few slices of
bacon; but previously cut off and reserve enough of the veal to
make two dozen small force-meat balls. Put the head and the other
meat into as much water as will cover it very well, so that it may
not be necessary to replenish it: this soup being always made very
rich. Let it boil slowly four hours, skimming it carefully. As
soon as no more scum rises, put in six potatoes, and three
turnips, all sliced thin; with equal proportions of parsley, sweet
marjoram and sweet basil, chopped fine; and pepper and salt to
your taste.

An hour before you send the meat to table, make about two dozen
small force-meat balls of minced veal and beef-suet in equal
quantities, seasoned with pepper and salt; sweet herbs, grated
lemon-peel, and powdered nutmeg and mace. Add some beaten yolk of
egg to make all these ingredients stick together. Flour the balls
very well, and fry them in butter. Before you put them into the
soup, take out the head, and the other meat. Cut the meat from the
head in small pieces, and return it to the soup. When the soup is
nearly done, stir in half a pint of Madeira. Have ready at least a
dozen egg-balls made of the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, grated or
pounded in a mortar, and mixed with a little flour and sufficient
raw yolk of egg to bind them. Make them up into the form and size
of boy's marbles. Throw them into the soup at the last, and also
squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Let it get another slow boil, and
then put it into the tureen.

We omit a receipt for _real_ turtle soup, as when that very
expensive, complicated, and difficult dish is prepared in a
private family, it is advisable to hire a first-rate cook for the
express purpose.

An easy way is to get it ready made, in any quantity you please,
from a turtle-soup house.


OX TAIL SOUP

Three ox tails will make a large tureen full of soup. Desire the
butcher to divide them at the joints. Rub them with salt, and put
them to soak in warm water, while you prepare the vegetables. Put
into a large pot or stew-pan four onions peeled and quartered, a
bunch of parsley, two sliced carrots, two sliced turnips, and two
dozen pepper corns. Then put in the tails, and pour on three
quarts of water.

Cover the pot, and set it on hot coals by the side of the fire.
Keep it gently simmering for about three hours, supplying it well
with fresh hot coals. Skim it carefully. When the meat is quite
tender, and falls from the bones, strain the soup into another
pot, and add to it a spoonful of mushroom catchup, and two
spoonfuls of butter rubbed in flour.

You may thicken it also with the pulp of a dozen onions first
fried soft, and then rubbed through a cullender. After it is
thickened, let it just boil up, and then send it to table, with
small squares of toasted bread in the tureen.


OCHRA SOUP.

Take a large slice of ham (cold boiled ham is best) and two pounds
of the lean of fresh beef; cut all the meat into small pieces. Add
a quarter of a pound of butter slightly melted; twelve large
tomatas pared and cut small; five dozen ochras cut into slices not
thicker than a cent; and salt and cayenne pepper to your taste.
Put all these ingredients into a pot; cover them with boiling
water, and let them stew slowly for an hour. Then add three quarts
of _hot_ water, and increase the heat so as to make the soup
boil. Skim it well, and stir it frequently with a wooden or silver
spoon.

Boil it till the tomatas are all to pieces, and the ochras
entirely dissolved. Strain it, and then serve it up with toasted
bread cut into dice, put in after it comes out of the pot.

This soup will be improved by a pint of shelled Lima beans, boiled
by themselves, and put into the tureen just before you send it to
table.


BEAN SOUP.

Put two quarts of dried white beans into soak the night before you
make the soup, which should be put on as early in the day as
possible.

Take five pounds of the lean of fresh beef--the coarse pieces will
do. Cut them up, and put them into your soup-pot with the bones
belonging to them, (which should be broken to pieces,) and a pound
of bacon cut very small. If you have the remains of a piece of
beef that has been roasted the day before, and so much under-done
that the juices remain in it, you may put it into the pot, and its
bones along with it. Season the meat with pepper and salt, and
pour on it six quarts of water. As soon as it boils take off the
scum, and put in the beans (having first drained them) and a head
of celery cut small, or a table-spoonful of pounded celery-seed.
Boil it slowly till the meat is done to shreds, and the beans all
dissolved. Then strain it through a cullender into the tureen, and
put into it small squares of toasted bread with the crust cut off.

Some prefer it with the beans boiled soft, but not quite
dissolved. In this case, do not strain it; but take out the meat
and bones with a fork before you send it to table.


PEAS SOUP.

Soak two quarts of dried or split peas overnight. In the morning
take three pounds of the lean of fresh beef, and a pound of bacon
or pickled pork. Cut them into pieces, and put them into a large
soup-pot with the peas, (which must first be well drained,) and a
table-spoonful of dried mint rubbed to powder. Add five quarts of
water, and boil the soup gently for three hours, skimming it well,
and then put in four heads of celery cut small, or two table-spoonfuls
of pounded celery seed.

It must be boiled till the peas are entirely dissolved, so as to
be no longer distinguishable, and the celery quite soft. Then
strain it into a tureen, and serve it up with toasted bread cut in
dice. Omit the crust of the bread.

Stir it up immediately before it goes to table, as it is apt to
settle, and be thick at the bottom and thin at the top.


GREEN PEAS SOUP.

Take four pounds of knuckle of veal, and a pound of bacon. Cut
them to pieces, and put them into a soup kettle with a sprig of
mint and four quarts of water. Boil it moderately fast, and skim
it well. When the meat is boiled to rags, strain it out, and put
to the liquor a quart of young green peas. Boil them till they are
entirely dissolved, and till they have thickened the soup, and
given it a green colour. [Footnote: You may greatly improve the
colour by pounding a handful of spinach in a mortar, straining the
juice, and adding it to the soup about a quarter of an hour before
it has done boiling.]

Have ready two quarts of green peas that have been boiled in
another pot with a sprig of mint, and two or three lumps of loaf
sugar, (which will greatly improve the taste.) After they have
boiled in this pot twenty minutes, take out the mint, put the
whole peas into the pot of soup, and boil all together about ten
minutes. Then put it into a tureen, and send it to table.

Never use hard old green peas for this soup, or for any other
purpose. When they begin to turn yellow, it is time to leave them
off for the season.

Lima bean soup may be made in the same manner.


ASPARAGUS SOUP.

Asparagus soup may be made in a similar manner to that of green
peas. You must have four or five bunches of asparagus. Cut off the
green tops, and put half of them into the soup, after the meat has
been boiled to pieces and strained out. The asparagus must be
boiled till quite dissolved, and till it has given a green colour
to the soup. Then take the remainder of the asparagus tops (which
must all this time have been lying in cold water) and put them
into the soup, and let them boil about twenty minutes. Serve it up
with small squares of toast in the tureen.

You may heighten the green of this soup by adding the juice of a
handful of spinach, pounded in a mortar and strained. Or you may
colour it with the juice of boiled spinach squeezed through a
cloth. The spinach juice should be put in fifteen or ten minutes
before you take up the soup, as a short boiling in it will take
off the peculiar taste.


FRIAR'S CHICKEN,

Cut up four pounds of knuckle of veal; season it with white pepper
and salt: put it into a soup-pan and let it boil slowly till the
meat drops from the bone. Then strain it off. Have ready a pair of
young fowls skinned, and cut up as you carve them at table. Season
them with white pepper, salt, and mace. Put them into the soup,
add a handful of chopped parsley, and let them boil. When the
pieces of chicken are all quite tender, have ready four or five
eggs well beaten. Stir the egg into the soup, and take it
immediately off the fire lest it curdle. Serve up the chicken in
the soup.

Rabbits may be substituted for fowls.


CATFISH SOUP.

Catfish that have been caught near the middle of the river are
much nicer than those that are taken near the shore where they
have access to impure food. The small white ones are the best.
Having cut off their heads, skin the fish, and clean them, and cut
them in three. To twelve small catfish allow a pound and a half of
ham. Cut the ham into small pieces, or slice it very thin, and
scald it two or three times in boiling water, lest it be too salt.
Chop together a bunch of parsley and some sweet marjoram stripped
from the stalks. Put these ingredients into a soup kettle and
season them with pepper: the ham will make it salt enough. Add a
head of celery cut small, or a large table-spoonful of celery seed
tied up in a bit of clear muslin to prevent its dispersing. Pat in
two quarts of water, cover the kettle, and let it boil slowly till
every thing is sufficiently done, and the fish and ham quite
tender. Skim it frequently. Boil in another vessel a quart of rich
milk, in which you have melted a quarter of a pound of butter
divided into small bits and rolled in flour. Pour it hot to the
soup, and stir in at the last the beaten yolks of four eggs. Give
it another boil, just to take off the rawness of the eggs, and
then put it into a tureen, taking out the bag of celery seed
before you send the soup to table, and adding some toasted bread
cut into small squares. In making toast for soap, cut the bread
thick, and pare off all the crust.

This soup will be found very fine.

Eel soup may be made in the same manner: chicken soup also.


LOBSTER SOUP.

Have ready a good broth made of a knuckle of veal boiled slowly in
as much water as will cover it, till the meat is reduced to rags.
It must then be well strained.

Having boiled three fine middle-sized lobsters, extract all the
meat from the body and claws. Bruise part of the coral in a
mortar, and also an equal quantity of the meat. Mix them well
together. Add mace, nutmeg, cayenne, and a little grated lemon-peel;
and make them up into force-meat balls, binding the mixture
with the yolk of an egg slightly beaten.

Take three quarts of the veal broth, and put into it the meat of
the lobsters cut into mouthfuls. Boil it together about twenty
minutes. Then thicken it with the remaining coral, (which you must
first rub through a sieve,) and add the force-meat balls, and a
little butter rolled in flour. Simmer it gently for ten minutes,
but do not let it come to a boil, as that will injure the colour.
Pour it into a tureen, and send it to table immediately.


OYSTER SOUP.

To two quarts of oysters add a pint of water, and let them set an
hour. Then take them out of the liquor. Grate and roll fine a
dozen crackers. Put them into the liquor with a large lump of
fresh butter. When the grated biscuit has quite dissolved, add a
quart of milk with a grated nutmeg, and a dozen blades of mace;
and, if in season, a head of celery split fine and cut into small
pieces. Season it to your taste with pepper.

Mix the whole together, and set it in a closely covered vessel
over a slow fire. When it comes to a boil, put in the oysters; and
when it comes to a boil again, they will be sufficiently done.

Before you send it to table put into the tureen some toasted bread
cut into small squares, omitting the crust.


PLAIN OYSTER SOUP.

Take two quarts of large oysters. Strain their liquor into a soup
pan; season it with a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, a tea-spoonful
of whole allspice, the same quantity of whole cloves, and seven or
eight blades of mace. If the oysters are fresh, add a large tea-spoonful
of salt; if they are salt oysters, none is requisite. Set
the pan on hot coals, and boil it slowly (skimming it when
necessary) till you find that it is sufficiently flavoured with
the taste of the spice. In the mean time (having cut out the hard
part) chop the oysters fine, and season them with a powdered
nutmeg. Take the liquor from the fire, and strain out the spice
from it. Then return it to the soup pan, and put the chopped
oysters into it, with whatever liquid may have continued about
them. Add a quarter of a pound of butter, divided into little bits
and rolled in flour. Cover the pan, and let it boil hard about
five minutes. If oysters are cooked too much they become tough and
tasteless.


CLAM SOUP.

Having put your clams into a pot of boiling water to make them
open easily, take them from the shells, carefully saving the
liquor. To the liquor of a quart of opened clams, allow three
quarts of water. Mix the water with the liquor of the clams and
put it into a large pot with a knuckle of veal, the bone of which
should be chopped in four places. When it has simmered slowly for
four hours, put in a large bunch of sweet herbs, a beaten nutmeg,
a tea-spoonful of mace, and a table-spoonful of whole pepper, but
no salt, as the salt of the clam liquor will be sufficient. Stew
it slowly an hour longer, and then strain it. When you have
returned the liquor to the pot, add a quarter of a pound of butter
divided into four and each bit rolled in flour. Then put in the
clams, (having cut them, in pieces,) and let it boil fifteen
minutes. Send it to table with toasted bread in it cut into dice.

This soup will be greatly improved by the addition of small force-meat
balls. Make them of cold minced veal or chicken, mixed with
equal quantities of chopped suet and sweet marjoram, and a smaller
proportion of hard-boiled egg, grated lemon-peel, and powdered
nutmeg. Pound all the ingredients together in a mortar, adding a
little pepper and salt. Break in a raw egg or two (in proportion
to the quantity) to bind the whole together and prevent it from
crumbling to pieces. When thoroughly mixed, make the force-meat
into small balls, and let them boil ten minutes in the soup,
shortly before you send it to table. If you are obliged to make
them of raw veal or raw chicken they must boil longer.

It will be a great improvement to cut up a yam and boil it in the
soup.

Oyster soup may be made in this manner.


PLAIN CLAM SOUP.

Take a hundred clams, well washed, and put them into a large pot
of boiling water. This will cause the shells to open. As they open
take them out, and extract the clams, taking care to save the
liquor. Mix with the liquor a quart of water, (or what will be
much better, a quart of milk,) and thicken it with butter rolled
in flour. Add a large bunch of parsley tied up, and a large table-spoonful
of whole pepper. Put the liquid into a pot over a
moderate fire. Make some little round dumplings (about the size of
a hickory nut) of flour and butter, and put them into the soup.
When it comes to a boil, put in the clams, and keep them boiling
an hour. Take them out before you send the soup to table.

When the soup is done, take out the bunch of parsley. Have ready
some toasted bread cut into small squares or dice. Put it into the
soup before you send it to table.

You may make oyster soup in a similar manner.


WATER SOUCHY.

Cut up four flounders, or half a dozen perch, two onions, and a
bunch of parsley. Put them into three quarts of water, and boil
them till the fish go entirely to pieces, and dissolve in the
water. Then strain the liquor through a sieve, and put it into a
kettle or stew-pan. Have ready a few more fish with the heads,
tails, and fins removed, and the brown skin taken off. Cut little
notches in them, and lay them for a short time in very cold water.
Then put them into the stew-pan with the liquor or soup-stock of
the first fish. Season with pepper, salt, and mace, and add half a
pint of white wine or two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Boil it
gently for a quarter of an hour, and skim it well.

Provide some parsley roots, cut into slices and boiled till very
tender; and also a quantity of parsley leaves boiled nice and
green. After the fish-pan has boiled moderately fifteen minutes,
take it off the fire, and put in the parsley roots; also a little
mushroom catchup.

Take out the fish and lay them in a broad deep dish, or in a
tureen, and then pour on the soup very gently for fear of breaking
them. Strew the green parsley leaves over the top. Have ready
plates of bread and butter, which it is customary to eat with
water souchy.

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