Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches
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Eliza Leslie >> Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches
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BOILED APPLE PUDDING.
Pare, core, and quarter as many fine juicy apples as will weigh
two pounds when done. Strew among them a quarter of a pound of
brown sugar, and add a grated nutmeg, and the juice and yellow
peel of a large lemon. Prepare a paste of suet and flour, in the
proportion of a pound of chopped suet to two pounds of flour. Roll
it out of moderate thickness; lay the apples in the centre, and
close the paste nicely over them in the form of a large dumpling;
tie it in a cloth and boil it three hours. Send it to table hot,
and eat with it cream sauce, or with butter and sugar.
Any fruit pudding may be made in a similar manner.
AN EASTERN PUDDING.
Make a paste of a pound of flour and half a pound of minced suet;
and roll it out thin into a square or oblong sheet; trim off the
edges so as to make it an even shape. Spread thickly over it some
marmalade, or cold stewed fruit, (which must be made very sweet,)
either apple, peach, plum, gooseberry or cranberry. Roll up the
paste, with the fruit spread on it, into a scroll. Secure each end
by putting on nicely a thin round piece rolled out from the
trimmings that you cut off the edges of the sheet. Put the pudding
into a cloth, and boil it at least three hours. Serve it up hot,
and eat it with cream sauce, or with butter and sugar.
APPLE DUMPLINGS.
Take large fine juicy apples. Pare them, and extract the cores
without dividing the apple. Fill each hole with brown sugar, and
some chips of lemon peel. Also squeeze in some lemon juice. Or you
may fill the cavities with raspberry jam, or with any sort of
marmalade. Have ready a paste, made in the proportion of a pound
of suet, chopped as fine as possible, to two pounds and a half of
sifted flour, well mixed, and wetted with as little water as
possible. Roll out the paste to a moderate thickness, and cut it
into circular pieces, allowing two pieces to each dumpling. Lay
your apple on one piece, and put another piece on the top, closing
the paste round the sides with your fingers, so as to cover the
apple entirely. This is a better way than gathering up the paste
at one end, as the dumpling is less liable to burst. Boil each
dumpling in a small coarse cloth, which has first been dipped in
hot water. There should always be a set of cloths kept for the
purpose. Tie them tightly, leaving a small space for the dumpling
to swell. Plaster a little flour on the inside of each tying place
to prevent the water from getting in. Have ready a pot of boiling
water. Put in the dumplings and boil them from three quarters to
an hour. Send them to table hot in a covered dish. Do not take
them up till a moment before they are wanted.
Eat them with cream and sugar, or with butter and sugar.
You may make the paste with butter instead of suet, allowing a
pound of butter to two pounds and a quarter of flour. But when
paste is to be boiled, suet will make it much lighter and finer
than butter.
Apple dumplings may be made in a very plain manner with potato
paste, and boiled without cloths, dredging the outside of each
dumpling with flour. They should boil about three quarters of an
hour when without cloths.
The apples for dumplings should always be whole, (except the
cores;) for if quartered, the pieces will separate in boiling and
break through the crust. The apples should never be sweet ones.
RICE DUMPLINGS.
Pick and wash a pound of rice, and boil it gently in two quarts of
water till it becomes dry; keeping the pot well covered, and not
stirring it. Then take it off the fire, and spread it out to cool
on the bottom, of an inverted sieve; loosening the grains lightly
with a fork, that all the moisture may evaporate. Pare a dozen
pippins or other, large juicy apples, and scoop out the core. Then
fill up the cavity with marmalade, or with lemon and sugar. Cover
every apple all over with a thick coating of the boiled rice. Tie
up each in a separate, cloth, [Footnote: Your pudding and dumpling
cloths should be squares of coarse thick linen, hemmed, and with
tape strings sewed to them. After using, they should be washed,
dried, and ironed; and kept in one of the kitchen drawers, that
they may be always ready when wanted.] and put them into a pot of
cold water. They will require about an hour and a quarter after
they begin to boil; perhaps longer.
Turn them out on a large dish, and be careful in doing so not to
break the dumplings. Eat them with cream sauce, or with wine
sauce, or with butter, sugar, and nutmeg beaten together.
PIGEON DUMPLINGS OR PUDDINGS.
Take four pigeons and stuff them with chopped oysters, seasoned
with pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg. Score the breasts, and loosen
all the joints with a sharp knife, as if you were going to carve
them for eating; but do not cut them quite apart. Make a
sufficient quantity of nice suet paste, allowing a pound of suet
to two pounds of flour; roll it out thick, and divide it into
four. Lay one pigeon on each sheet of the paste with the back
downwards, and put at the lower part of the breast a piece of
butter rolled in flour. Close the paste over the pigeon in the
form of a dumpling or small pudding; pouring in at the last a very
little cold water to add to the gravy. Tie each dumpling in a
cloth, put them into a pot of hot water, and boil them two hours.
Send them to table with made gravy in a boat.
Partridges or quails may be cooked in this manner; also chickens,
which must be accompanied by egg sauce. These dumplings or
puddings will be found very good.
FINE SUET DUMPLINGS.
Grate the crumb of a stale six cent loaf, and mix it with nearly
as much beef suet, chopped as fine as possible. Add a grated
nutmeg, and two large table-spoonfuls of sugar. Beat four eggs
with four table-spoonfuls of white wine or brandy. Mix all well
together to a stiff paste. Flour your hands, and make up the
mixture into balls or dumplings about the size of turkey eggs.
Have ready a pot of boiling water. Put the dumplings into cloths,
and let them boil about half an hour. Serve them hot, and eat them
with wine sauce.
PLAIN SUET DUMPLINGS.
Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, and add a salt-spoon of salt.
Mince very fine one pound of beef suet, and rub it into the flour.
Make it into a stiff dough with a little cold water. Then roll it
out an inch thick or rather more. Cut it into dumplings with the
edge of a tumbler. Put them into a pot of boiling water, and let
them boil an hour and a half. Send them to table hot, to eat with
boiled loin of mutton, or with molasses after the meat is removed.
INDIAN DUMPLINGS.
Take a pint of milk, and four eggs well beaten. Stir them
together, and add a salt-spoon of salt. Then mix in as much sifted
Indian meal as will make a stiff dough. Flour your hands; divide
the dough into equal portions, and make it into balls about the
size of a goose egg. Flatten each with the rolling-pin, tie them
in cloths, and put them into a pot of boiling water. They will
boil in a short time. Take care not to let them go to pieces by
keeping them too long in the pot.
Serve them up hot, and eat them with corned pork, or with bacon.
Or you may eat them with molasses and butter after the meat is
removed.
If to be eaten without meat, you may mix in the dough a quarter of
a pound of finely chopped suet.
LIVER DUMPLINGS.
Take a calf's liver, and chop it very fine. Mix with it half a
pound of beef suet chopped line also; half a pound of flour; two
minced onions; a handful of bread-crumbs; a table-spoonful of
chopped parsley and sweet marjoram mixed; a few blades of mace and
a few cloves powdered; and a little pepper and salt. Mix all well
together. Wet the mixture with six eggs well beaten, and make it
up into dumplings, with your hands well floured. Have ready a
large pot of boiling water. Drop the dumplings into it with a
ladle, and let them boil an hour. Have ready bread-crumbs browned
in butter to poor over them before they go to table.
HAM DUMPLINGS.
Chop some cold ham, the fat and lean in equal proportions. Season
it with pepper and minced sage. Make a crust, allowing half a
pound of chopped suet; or half a pound of butter to a pound of
flour. Roll it out thick, and divide it into equal portions. Put
some minced ham into each, and close up the crust. Have ready a
pot of boiling water, and put in the dumplings. Boil them about
three quarters of an hour.
LIGHT DUMPLINGS.
Mix together as much grated bread, butter and beaten egg (seasoned
with powdered cinnamon) as will make a stiff paste. Stir it well.
Make the mixture into round dumplings, with your hands well
floured. Tie up each in a separate cloth, and boil them a short
time,--about fifteen minutes. Eat them with wine sauce, or with
molasses and butter.
PLAIN FRITTERS.
Beat seven eggs very light, and stir them gradually into a quart
of milk; add, by degrees, three quarters of a pound, or a pint and
a half of sifted flour. Beat the whole very hard. Have ready in a
frying-pan over the fire, a large quantity of lard. When the lard
has come to a hard boil, begin to put in the fritters; allowing
for each about a jill of batter, or half a large tea-cup full.
They do not require turning, and will be done in a few minutes.
Fry as many at a time as the pan will hold. Send them to table
hot, and eat them with powdered cinnamon, sugar, and white wine.
Let fresh hot ones be sent in as they are wanted; they chill and
become heavy immediately.
Begin to fry the fritters as soon as the batter is mixed, as it
will fall by setting. Near a pound and a half of lard will be
required for the above quantity of fritters.
APPLE FRITTERS.
Pave, core, and parboil (in a very little water) some large juicy
pippins. When half done, take them out, drain them, and mince them
very fine. Make a batter according to the preceding receipt;
adding some lemon juice and grated lemon-peel. Stir into the
batter a sufficient quantity of the minced apple to make it very
thick. Then fry the fritters in hot lard as before directed. Eat
them with nutmeg and sugar.
PLAIN PANCAKES.
Sift half a pound or a pint of flour. Beat seven eggs very light,
and stir them gradually into a quart of rich milk. Then add by
degrees the flour, so as to make a thin batter. Mix it very
smooth, pressing out all the lumps with the back of a spoon. Set
the frying-pan over the fire, and when it is hot, grease it with a
spoonful of lard. Then put in a ladle full of the batter, and fry
it of a light brown, turning it with care to prevent its breaking.
Make each pancake large enough to cover the bottom of a dessert
plate; greasing the pan every time. Send them to table hot,
accompanied by powdered sugar and nutmeg mixed in a small glass
bowl. Have wine with them also.
SWEETMEAT PANCAKES.
Take a large red beet-root that has been boiled tender; cut it up
and pound it in a mortar till you have sufficient juice for
colouring the pancakes. Then make a batter as in the preceding
receipt, and stir into it at the last enough of the beet juice to
give it a fine pink colour. Or instead of the beet juice, you may
use a little cochineal dissolved in a very small quantity of
brandy. Fry the pancakes in a pan greased with lard or fresh
butter; and as fast as they are done, spread thickly over them
raspberry jam or any sort of marmalade. Then roll them up nicely,
and trim off the ends. Lay them, side by side, on a large dish,
and strew powdered sugar over them. Send them to table hot, and
eat them with sweetened cream.
PLAIN CUSTARDS.
Tie together six or eight peach leaves, and boil them in a quart
of milk with a large stick of cinnamon broken up. If you cannot
procure peach leaves, substitute a handful of peach-kernels or
bitter almonds, or a vanilla bean split in pieces. When it has
boiled hard, strain the milk and set it away to cool. Beat very
light eight eggs, and stir them by degrees into the milk when it
is quite cold, (if warm, the eggs will curdle it, and cause whey
at the bottom,) and add gradually a quarter of a pound of sugar.
Fill your cups with it; set them in a Dutch-oven, and pour round
them boiling water sufficient to reach nearly to the tops of the
cups. Put hot coals under the oven and on the lid, (which must be
previously heated by standing it up before a hot fire,) and bake
the custards about twenty minutes. Send them to table cold, with
nutmeg grated over each. Or you may bake the whole in one large
dish.
SOFT CUSTARDS.
Are made in the above manner, except that to a quart of milk you
must have twelve yolks of eggs, and no whites. You may devote to
this purpose the yolks that are left when you have used the whites
for cocoa-nut or almond puddings, or for lady cake or maccaroons.
BOILED CUSTARDS.
Beat eight eggs very light, omitting the whites of four. Mix them
gradually with a quart of cold milk and a quarter of a pound of
sugar. Put the mixture into a sauce-pan with a bunch of peach
leaves, or a handful of broken up peach-kernels or bitter almonds;
the yellow peel of a. lemon, and a handful of broken cinnamon; or
you may boil in it a vanilla bean. Set it on hot coals, and
simmer it slowly, stirring it all the time. As soon as it comes to
a boil, take it immediately off the fire, or it will curdle and be
lumpy. Then strain it; add eight or ten drops of oil of lemon, and
put it into glass cups. You may lay in the bottom of each cup a
maccaroon soaked in wine. Grate nutmeg over the top, and send it
to table cold. Eat it with tarts or sweetmeats.
RICE CUSTARD.
Boil some rice in milk till it is quite dry; then
put it into small tea-cups, (pressing it down hard,) and when it
is cold and has taken the shape of the cups, turn it out into a
deep dish, and pour a boiled custard round it. Lay on the top of
each lump of rice a piece of preserved quince or peach, or a piece
of fruit jelly. In boiling the rice, you may mix with, it raisins
or currants; if so, omit the sweetmeats on the top.
Another way of boiling custard is to put the mixture into a
pitches, set it in a vessel of boiling water, place it on hot
coals or in a stove, and let it boil slowly, stirring it all the
time.
SNOWBALL CUSTARD.
Make a boiled custard as in the preceding receipts; and when it is
done and quite cold, put it into a deep glass dish. Beat to a
stiff froth the four whites of eggs that have been omitted in the
custard, adding eight or ten drops of oil of lemon. Drop the froth
in balls on the top of the dish of custard, heaping and forming
them with a spoon into a regular size and shape. Do not let them
touch each other. You may lay a fresh, rose leaf on the top of
every one.
APPLE CUSTARD.
Pare, core, and quarter a dozen large juicy pippins. Strew among
them the yellow peel of a large lemon pared very thin; and stew
them till tender, in a very small portion of water. When done,
mash them smooth with the back of a spoon; (you must have a pint
and a half of the stewed apple;) mix a quarter of a pound of sugar
with them, and set them away till cold. Beat six eggs very light,
and stir them gradually into a quart of rich milk, alternately
with the stewed apple. Put the mixture into cups, or into a deep
dish, and bake it about twenty minutes. Send it to table cold,
with nutmeg grated over the top.
LEMON CUSTARD.
Take four large ripe lemons, and roll them under
your hand on the table to increase the juice. Then squeeze them
into a bowl, and mix with the juice a very small tea-cup full of
cold water. Use none of the peel. Add gradually sufficient sugar
to make it very sweet. Beat twelve eggs till quite light, and then
stir the lemon juice gradually into them, beating very hard at the
last. Put the mixture into cups, and bake it ten minutes. When
done, grate nutmeg over the top of each, and set them among ice,
or in a very cold place.
These custards being made without milk, can be prepared at a short
notice; they will be found very fine.
Orange custards may be made in the same manner.
GOOSEBERRY CUSTARD.
Top and tail two quarts of green gooseberries. Stew them in a very
little water; stirring and mashing them frequently. When they have
stewed till entirely to pieces, take them out, and with a wooden
spoon press the pulp through a cullender. Stir in (while the pulp
is hot) a table-spoonful of butter, and sufficient sugar to make
it very sweet. Beat six eggs very light. Simmer the gooseberry
pulp over a gentle fire, and gradually stir the beaten eggs into
it. When it comes to a boil, take it off immediately, stir it
very hard, and set it out to cool. Serve it up cold in glasses or
custard cups, grating some nutmeg; over each.
ALMOND CUSTARD.
Scald and blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three
ounces of shelled bitter almonds; throwing them as you do them
into a large bowl of cold water. Then pound them one at a time in
a mortar; pouring in frequently a little rose water to prevent
their oiling, and becoming dark-coloured and heavy. Melt a quarter
of a pound of loaf-sugar in a quart of cream or rich milk, and
stir in by degrees the pounded almonds. Beat ten eggs very light,
and stir them gradually into the mixture; adding a powdered
nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon mixed.
Then put the whole into a pitcher, and place it in a kettle or pan
of boiling water, the water coming up to the lower part of the
neck of the pitcher. Set it over hot coals, and let it boil
(stirring it all the time) till it is quite thick, but not till it
curdles. Then take the pitcher out of the water; pour the custard
into a large bowl, and stir it till it cools. Put it into glass
cups, and send it to table cold. Sweeten some cream or white of
egg. Beat it to stiff froth, and pile it on the top of the
custards.
BOILED COCOA-NUT CUSTARD.
To a pound of grated cocoa-nut allow a pint of unskimmed milk, and
six ounces of white sugar. Beat very light the yolks of six eggs.
Stir them gradually into the milk, alternately with the cocoa-nut
and sugar. Put the mixture into a pitcher; set it in a vessel of
boiling water; place it on hot coals, and simmer it till it is
very smooth and thick; stirring it all the time. As soon as it
comes to a hard boil, take it off the fire; pour it into a large
bowl, and set it out to cool. When cold, put it into glass cups.
Beat to a stiff froth the white of egg that was left, and pile it
on the custards.
BAKED COCOA-NUT CUSTARD.
Grate as much cocoa-nut as will weigh a pound. Mix half a pound of
powdered white sugar with the milk of the cocoa-nut, or with a
pint of cream; adding two table-spoonfuls of rose water. Then stir
in gradually a pint of rich milk. Beat to a stiff froth the whites
of eight eggs, and stir them into the milk and sugar, a little at
a time, alternately with the grated cocoa-nut; add a tea-spoonful
of powdered nutmeg and cinnamon. Then put the mixture into cups,
and bake them twenty minutes in a Dutch oven half filled with
boiling water. When cold, grate loaf-sugar over them.
CHOCOLATE CUSTARD.
Scrape fine a quarter of a pound of the best chocolate, and pour
on it a tea-cup of boiling water. Cover it, and let it stand by
the fire till it has dissolved, stirring it twice. Beat eight eggs
very light, omitting the whites of two. Stir them by degrees into
a quart of cream or rich milk, alternately with the melted
chocolate, and three table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar. Pat
the mixture into cups, and bake it about ten minutes. Send them to
table cold, with sweetened cream, or white of egg beaten to a
stiff froth, and heaped on the top of each custard.
MACCAROON CUSTARDS.
These must he made in china custard cups. Put a maccaroon in the
bottom of each cup, and pour on it a table-spoonful of white wine.
Mix together a pint of cream, and a pint of milk; and boil them
with a large stick of cinnamon broken up, and a small bunch of
peach leaves or a handful of broken bitter almonds. Then strain
the milk; stir in a quarter of a pound of white sugar, and set it
away to cool. Beat very light eight eggs, (omitting the whites of
four,) and stir them gradually into the cream and milk when quite
cold. Fill your cups with the mixture, (leaving the maccaroons at
the bottom,) and set them in a Dutch oven or iron baking pan,
which must be half full of boiling water. Heat the oven-lid first,
by standing it up before a hot fire; then put it on, spreading
coals over the top. Place sufficient coals under the oven, and
bake the custards about ten minutes. When cold, heap beaten white
of egg on the top of each. These custards are very fine.
SYLLABUB, OR WHIPT CREAM.
Pare off very thin the yellow rind of four large lemons, And lay
it in the bottom of a deep dish. Squeeze the juice of the lemons
into a large bowl containing a pint of white wine, and sweeten it
with half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar Then, by degrees, mix in
a quart of cream. Pour the whole into the dish in which you have
laid the lemon-peel, and let the mixture stand untouched for three
hours. Then beat it with rods to a stiff froth, (first taking out
the lemon-peel,) and having put into each of your glasses a table-spoonful
or more of fruit jelly, heap the syllabub upon it so as
to stand up high at the top. This syllabub, if it can be kept in a
cold place, may be made the day before you want to use it.
COUNTRY SYLLABUB.
Mix half a pound of white sugar with a pint of fine sweet cider,
or of white wine; and grate in a nutmeg. Prepare them in a large
bowl, just before milking time. Then let it be taken to the cow,
and have about three pints milked into it; stirring it
occasionally with a spoon. Let it be eaten before the froth
subsides. If you use cider, a little brandy will improve it.
A TRIFLE.
Place half a pound of maccaroons or Naples biscuits at the bottom
of a large glass bowl. Pour on them as much white wine as will
cover and dissolve them. Make a rich custard, flavoured with
bitter almonds or peach leaves; and pour it when cold on the
maccaroons; the custard may be either baked or boiled. Then add a
layer of marmalade or jam. Take a quart of cream, mix with it a
quarter of a pound of sugar, and half a pint of white wine, and
whip it with rods to a stiff froth; laying the froth (as you
proceed) on an inverted sieve, with a dish under it to catch the
cream that drips through; which must be saved and whipped over
again. Instead of rods you may use a little tin churn. Pile the
frothed cream upon the marmalade in a high pyramid. To ornament
it,--take preserved water-melon rind that has been cut into leaves
or flowers; split them nicely to make them thinner and lighter;
place a circle or wreath of them round the heap of frothed cream,
interspersing them with spots of stiff red currant jelly. Stick on
the top of the pyramid a sprig of real flowers.
FLOATING ISLAND.
Take a quart of rich cream, and divide it in half. Sweeten one
pint of it with loaf-sugar, and stir into it sufficient currant
jelly to colour it of a fine pink. Put it into a glass bowl, and
place in the centre a pile of sliced almond-sponge cake, or of
lady cake; every slice spread thickly with raspberry jam or
marmalade, and laid evenly one on another. Have ready the other
pint of cream, flavoured with a few drops of oil of lemon, and
beaten with rods to a stiff froth. Heap it all over the pile of
cake, so as entirely to cover it.
A RASPBERRY CHARLOTTE.
Take a dozen of the square or oblong sponge-cakes that are
commonly called Naples biscuits. They should be quite fresh.
Spread over each a thick layer of raspberry jam, and place them in
the bottom and round the sides of a glass bowl. Take the whites of
six eggs, and mix with them six table-spoonfuls of raspberry or
currant jelly. Beat the egg and jelly with rods till very light,
and then fill up the bowl with it. For this purpose, cream (if you
can conveniently procure it) is still better than white of egg.
You may make a charlotte with any sort of jam, marmalade, or fruit
jelly. It can be prepared at a short notice, and is very generally
liked.
A PLUM CHARLOTTE.
Stone a quart of ripe plums, and stew them with a pound of brown
sugar. Cut slices of bread and butter and lay them in the bottom
and round the sides of a large bowl or deep dish. Pour in the
plums boiling hot, cover the bowl, and set it away to cool
gradually. When, quite cold, send it to table, and eat it with
cream.
CLOTTED CREAM.
Mix together a jill of rich milk, a large wine glass of rose
water, and four ounces of white sugar. Add to it the beaten yolks
of two eggs. Stir the mixture into a quart of the best cream; set
it over hot coals, and let it just come to a boil, stirring it all
the time. Then take it off, pour it into a glass bowl, and set it
away to get cold. Eat it with fresh strawberries, raspberries, or
with any sort of sweetmeats.
LEMON CREAM.
Beat well together a quart of thick cream and the yolks of eight
eggs. Then gradually beat in half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar,
and the grated rind of three large lemons. Put the mixture into a
porcelain skillet, and set it on hot coals till it comes to a
boil; then take it off, and stir it till nearly cold. Squeeze the
juice of the lemons into a bowl; pour the cream upon it, and
continue to stir it till quite cold. You may serve it up in a
glass bowl, in glass cups, or in jelly glasses. Eat it with tarts
or sweetmeats.
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